R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 04-02-2017, 11:22 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Offical Team Associated SC5M Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: Wildcat1971
Team Associated SC5M Wiki Content.

Print Wikipost

Like Tree18Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-30-2016, 08:06 PM   #1711
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 100
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by man1ac View Post
Had another run with my SC5M, the guys fixed some broken clay (dry, wet, dry, extreme wet and extreme dry really messed it up). So we got sections which have good grip, like flat dried clay (good grip at my measures ) and loose stuff which makes it even hart to drive straight.

The SC5M didnt handle that well, kinda back to my problem loosing the rear when entering fast corners. I didnt want to do any tuning, cause my money is on the B5M and B6 someday. But at the moment I am just loosing confidence in the truck and think of selling it
Current setup is:

>front shocks 35wt and grey spring
>rear shocks 30wt and green spring
>ball diff just opened a notch, any more closed and its shut for good
> Hole Shots front and rear, standard plastic rims
> shorty at rear position

So its either sell it or make it the way I like it.
Thinking of adding brass c and d, increase rear toe to 3,5 (which wont help me just for acceleration?) Any more suggestions? I even think of trying to switch to gear diff with 5k...
@ Ray: you suggested 1.7 and 37,5wt for rear?
What C-block you running?
I switched to the 3-1 for outdoors from the 3-2 when running indoors.
__________________
SC5M, SC10.2 FT
HPI WR8 flux,HPI Bullet flux
RC10 T4.2 FT
SC10 4x4
RC10T Team Truck,RC10
Fastz28 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2016, 09:30 PM   #1712
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Olching, Germany
Posts: 341
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastz28 View Post
What C-block you running?
I switched to the 3-1 for outdoors from the 3-2 when running indoors.
Havent changed anything here, so it's like in the manual...
man1ac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2016, 10:19 PM   #1713
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Really Southern Ca.
Posts: 228
Default

I have a pretty much bone stock per manual truck. I do have a few super secrets though.

This was my first run with the truck. I had beat the snot out of the SC10.2 truck for the last 2 years. It had always been loose in the rear. So I developed some habits to get it to run well. I was using the break and throttle well for the old truck. It was causing issues tonight with the SC5m.

I took it easy for the first 10 laps or so. Sounded like slipper was slipping. So tightened slipper, still sounded like skipper was slipping, cranked it down, no change. Checked diff. Loosened, tightened all the way backed out not a full 1/4 turn. Still slipped, loosened, tightened, back out about 1/8th. no slip and drove better. Had a lot better launch. Did not pull to either side.

I had trouble flying. I was all over the throttle and the brake like I had to in the SC10.2. This one you just do pretty much nothing and it fly's just fine. As I drove it more I was getting better at letting it do its thing and leave it alone in the air.

This thing slams into the corner and rockets through it. So much better than the SC10.2 I had. I have the sway bars front and rear. They keep this thing flat through the turns. I have the stock springs, 32.5 front and rear. I did buy the FRP shock pistons. I think they help a lot with the suspension It just soaks the big jumps, glides over the small stuff.

When my brother had the SC10 RTR, he had trouble keeping up with my SC10.2, he upgraded the the SC5M. Then I had trouble keeping up with his SC5M. Now, tonight he had trouble keeping up with my SC5M and my Super secrets.

When I built the kit, I bought the ceramic diff balls, FRP 1.5, 1.6 valved shock pistons, sway bars front and rear. I think those were well worth the money. The truck was hooked up and flying tonight.


Buzz.
blvdbuzzard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2016, 02:25 PM   #1714
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 100
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by man1ac View Post
Havent changed anything here, so it's like in the manual...
The manual calls for the 3-2.
I am using the 3-1 and my setup is based off of Cavalieri's Off-Road Shootout setup sheet.
https://www.teamassociated.com/cars_...anuals_setups/
__________________
SC5M, SC10.2 FT
HPI WR8 flux,HPI Bullet flux
RC10 T4.2 FT
SC10 4x4
RC10T Team Truck,RC10
Fastz28 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2016, 11:22 PM   #1715
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Olching, Germany
Posts: 341
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastz28 View Post
The manual calls for the 3-2.
I am using the 3-1 and my setup is based off of Cavalieri's Off-Road Shootout setup sheet.
https://www.teamassociated.com/cars_...anuals_setups/
Since I glued my inserts that sucks
man1ac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2016, 02:46 AM   #1716
Moderator
 
bds81175's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Litchfield, Minnesota
Posts: 2,744
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

He's talking about the C block, not the front trailing inserts.
__________________
Current Racers: AE B6D, Tekno SCT410, Tekno EB48.3
Full Throttle R/C Raceway www.ftrcr.com, Psycho Dog Racing Team, Team Holy Rollers - Greatest RC race team on the planet. Well, at least the team with the best sponsor.
Tekno RC
bds81175 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2016, 08:27 AM   #1717
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 100
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

On the setup sheet its called the "Arm Mount."
__________________
SC5M, SC10.2 FT
HPI WR8 flux,HPI Bullet flux
RC10 T4.2 FT
SC10 4x4
RC10T Team Truck,RC10
Fastz28 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2016, 07:25 PM   #1718
Tech Elite
 
RC*PHREAK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 4,421
Trader Rating: 119 (100%+)
Default

those running a gear diff on high traction surfaces, what oil are you using (and please list the surface, e.g. clay, astro, carpet, etc). when i ran a ball diff, i ran it tight. i just put a gear diff in and started with 7000, but it feels too loose (just spinning it, haven't actually run it yet). feels way looser than my ball diff was.

thanks!

Last edited by RC*PHREAK; 07-02-2016 at 07:37 PM.
RC*PHREAK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2016, 12:36 AM   #1719
Tech Apprentice
 
Hasi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: North-Rhine Westfalia, Germany
Posts: 91
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastz28 View Post
The manual calls for the 3-2.
My manual calls for the 3-1.. was there a running change?
I installed the 3-1 like my manual said.
__________________
Onroad: Tamiya TT-02, Tamiya TA-02SW, Xray T2'008
Offroad: Asso B5, Asso SC5M, Asso B64D, Tamiya Avante 2011 Re-Release
Trucks: Tamiya Mercedes SK 2638 6x6, Tamiya Mercedes 3553 8x4 heavy haulage, Tamiya Mercedes Arocs 8x4
Hasi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2016, 01:28 AM   #1720
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 16
Default

Hi guys,
Do some of you encountered problems with ball diff screw ? When I built my kit the first time, I broke it before screwing it completely. A friend had the same problem and a fellow pilot broke 2 of these screws during a race this weekend...
We all had no problem with our SC10 ball diff so we are thinking there might be a problem with the material of the screws ?
lanac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2016, 04:57 AM   #1721
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 290
Default

I had one snap on me when I built my B5m, but that's the only one I've had happen. My T5m and SC5m went together with no issues. Could have just been a bad batch.
boucher is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2016, 09:57 PM   #1722
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 100
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hasi View Post
My manual calls for the 3-1.. was there a running change?
I installed the 3-1 like my manual said.
You are correct. On my initial build I used the 3-2 for indoors. My mistake.
__________________
SC5M, SC10.2 FT
HPI WR8 flux,HPI Bullet flux
RC10 T4.2 FT
SC10 4x4
RC10T Team Truck,RC10
Fastz28 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2016, 11:22 PM   #1723
Tech Apprentice
 
Hasi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: North-Rhine Westfalia, Germany
Posts: 91
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastz28 View Post
You are correct. On my initial build I used the 3-2 for indoors. My mistake.
No worries, you're welcome. We all make mistakes sometime


Quote:
Originally Posted by lanac View Post
Hi guys,
Do some of you encountered problems with ball diff screw ? When I built my kit the first time, I broke it before screwing it completely. A friend had the same problem and a fellow pilot broke 2 of these screws during a race this weekend...
We all had no problem with our SC10 ball diff so we are thinking there might be a problem with the material of the screws ?

Didn't have any problem with it, neither at my SC5m nor at my B5r.
Did you compress the ball diff spring severeal times before installing the screw like the manual said?
__________________
Onroad: Tamiya TT-02, Tamiya TA-02SW, Xray T2'008
Offroad: Asso B5, Asso SC5M, Asso B64D, Tamiya Avante 2011 Re-Release
Trucks: Tamiya Mercedes SK 2638 6x6, Tamiya Mercedes 3553 8x4 heavy haulage, Tamiya Mercedes Arocs 8x4
Hasi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2016, 11:32 PM   #1724
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 16
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hasi View Post
Didn't have any problem with it, neither at my SC5m nor at my B5r.
Did you compress the ball diff spring severeal times before installing the screw like the manual said?
Yes we followed the instructions and it's not our first diff build... Weird :s
lanac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2016, 01:07 AM   #1725
Tech Elite
 
RC*PHREAK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 4,421
Trader Rating: 119 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by lanac View Post
Hi guys,
Do some of you encountered problems with ball diff screw ? When I built my kit the first time, I broke it before screwing it completely. A friend had the same problem and a fellow pilot broke 2 of these screws during a race this weekend...
We all had no problem with our SC10 ball diff so we are thinking there might be a problem with the material of the screws ?
when i had a 22SCT, my thrust bearing washers completely disintegrated and others had the same issue along with snapping diff bolts and the solution was to buy associated parts. once i did that, i never had any issues. weird that you and your friends have seen failures with the AE stuff.
RC*PHREAK is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 11:52 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net