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Old 05-25-2016, 07:33 PM   #1621
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Default swaybar

dose any one have an extra or know where to locate a jconcepts front anti sway bar kit #2166. I would like to try one. I also am wondering have any of you tried or have seen someone use the proline pro2 swaybar kit on a sc5m???
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Old 05-25-2016, 08:00 PM   #1622
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kraig View Post


Thanks Kraig. The lower pic is from my own truck, the upper one Im not sure.

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Originally Posted by 1stPlaceAllDay View Post
Jc pivot blocks?
Why did you moubt further out onnthe arm than shown by jc?
The sway bar set was originally released for the SC10 and this was the mounting point on that (26mm out). With the SC10.2 a different position was recommended for the new arm, but it was much further inboard and I found was too soft to make the difference I was looking for.

The JC set is no longer in production. Check out Wallie builds on facebook for his kit.

Ray
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Old 05-25-2016, 10:01 PM   #1623
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ray_munday View Post
Thanks Kraig. The lower pic is from my own truck, the upper one Im not sure.



The sway bar set was originally released for the SC10 and this was the mounting point on that (26mm out). With the SC10.2 a different position was recommended for the new arm, but it was much further inboard and I found was too soft to make the difference I was looking for.

The JC set is no longer in production. Check out Wallie builds on facebook for his kit.

Ray
RAY how much exactly is your mounting point using the jc kit?
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Old 05-25-2016, 10:22 PM   #1624
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Originally Posted by 1stPlaceAllDay View Post
RAY how much exactly is your mounting point using the jc kit?
I drilled a hole 26mm out from the inner hinge pin pivot (centre - centre distance). I run the 1.6mm front sway bar.

Ray
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Old 05-27-2016, 06:42 AM   #1625
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The truck in the upper pic is mine.
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Old 05-29-2016, 10:15 PM   #1626
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Had the next Session with my SC5M and still not satisfied. The car improved, its way more controllable compared to the kit setup.
Current "setup" is kit except:
>front shocks 35wt and grey spring
>rear shocks 30wt and green spring
>50g at the ball stud mounts
>ball diff opened just 1/8 (it barked way earlier this year a bit, so it MAY be damaged. I opened it, cleaned it and it seems to work flawless
> Hole Shots front and rear, rear has bead locs for added weight
> shorty at rear position

I added our track layout und on both marked spots I loose rear traction. It doenst matter what I do (no brake or anything). Just being faster than a certain speed and even just steering along the corner will cause the rear to loose traction completly. And its not a way which could be controlled. (So no drifting here ) IF I loose traction, I will spin 180
There are few guys who drive SCs too and even if they follow me they can keep up the speed and dont loose traction (so I am not just TOO fast).
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Old 05-29-2016, 11:35 PM   #1627
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Originally Posted by man1ac View Post
Had the next Session with my SC5M and still not satisfied. The car improved, its way more controllable compared to the kit setup.
Current "setup" is kit except:
>front shocks 35wt and grey spring
>rear shocks 30wt and green spring
>50g at the ball stud mounts
>ball diff opened just 1/8 (it barked way earlier this year a bit, so it MAY be damaged. I opened it, cleaned it and it seems to work flawless
> Hole Shots front and rear, rear has bead locs for added weight
> shorty at rear position

I added our track layout und on both marked spots I loose rear traction. It doenst matter what I do (no brake or anything). Just being faster than a certain speed and even just steering along the corner will cause the rear to loose traction completly. And its not a way which could be controlled. (So no drifting here ) IF I loose traction, I will spin 180
There are few guys who drive SCs too and even if they follow me they can keep up the speed and dont loose traction (so I am not just TOO fast).
Looking at the points you have marked, these are both high speed / tightening radius corners. Oversteer in these types of corners is usually due to too much weight at the rear. I would start by reducing the amount of weight you have added to the rear - 50g is a lot. On my truck I run the Brass C block only (which adds about 20g in front of the rear arms) and the weight balance is similar to my SC10 rear motor. If you do add weight behind the rear tower, do it 10g at a time.

I run my front ride height 1mm higher than the rear. In high speed corners you can have trouble if the front rolls too much and tyres grab on the body. With SCT in general, you have to be quite smooth in high speed corners especially if you arent using a front sway bar.

Let me know how you go.

Ray
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Old 05-29-2016, 11:36 PM   #1628
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I published a guide (in french) explaining how to mount the bars : automodelisme.wikeo.net/monter-une-barre-anti-roulis-a-lavant-du-sc5m.html (I'm still not able to publish links :-/)

I details each step (drilling holes at 26mm from the mounting points of the arms, use 3x20mm FHS screws for the bar mounts.
I hope this will help some people :-)
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Old 05-30-2016, 01:16 AM   #1629
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ray_munday View Post
Looking at the points you have marked, these are both high speed / tightening radius corners. Oversteer in these types of corners is usually due to too much weight at the rear. I would start by reducing the amount of weight you have added to the rear - 50g is a lot. On my truck I run the Brass C block only (which adds about 20g in front of the rear arms) and the weight balance is similar to my SC10 rear motor. If you do add weight behind the rear tower, do it 10g at a time.

I run my front ride height 1mm higher than the rear. In high speed corners you can have trouble if the front rolls too much and tyres grab on the body. With SCT in general, you have to be quite smooth in high speed corners especially if you arent using a front sway bar.

Let me know how you go.

Ray
So you're saying, that adding too much weight at the rear will reduce up the rear grip? Woudnt have thought of that
Is it cause by centrifugal forces (you will know what I mean, although I may have named it wrong )
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Old 05-30-2016, 05:10 AM   #1630
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Originally Posted by man1ac View Post
So you're saying, that adding too much weight at the rear will reduce up the rear grip? Woudnt have thought of that
Is it cause by centrifugal forces (you will know what I mean, although I may have named it wrong )
Yes that is correct. Also referred to as the pendulum effect. In cornering, weight to the rear takes away rear grip. Under acceleration it helps but sometimes too much weight at the rear wil also hurt rear traction if you are exiting a corner due to centripetal force.

This is basically the reason mid motor is so effective even on looser tracks. I dont find the sc5m needs any more than the brass c block unless it is really slippery, then add brass d.

Ray
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Old 05-30-2016, 05:37 AM   #1631
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Our tracks tends to be very slippery especially when its dry. After couple hours of driving you have a nice clean and flat dry clay surface, but beware of leaving the perfect line...its full of dust and "zero grip"
I will go with 15 or 25g, starting with 15g.
(So the same goes for the B5M I suggest? I added 25g (too much?)
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Old 05-30-2016, 07:04 AM   #1632
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Extra weight out on the end of the rear suspension (beadlock rims) would be bad for handling in general as well.
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Old 05-30-2016, 03:26 PM   #1633
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Quote:
Originally Posted by man1ac View Post
Our tracks tends to be very slippery especially when its dry. After couple hours of driving you have a nice clean and flat dry clay surface, but beware of leaving the perfect line...its full of dust and "zero grip"
I will go with 15 or 25g, starting with 15g.
(So the same goes for the B5M I suggest? I added 25g (too much?)
That sounds very similar to our tracks. You need to be very disciplined in these conditions. I only add weight to the rear if my car is having traction issues exiting low speed corners (especially if you need to clear a jump just after a hairpin). The 5M layout is fantastic on lower grip tracks as the motor is mounted further back than most MM cars, so you have a low yaw inertia but still good weight balance to the rear. With the SC5M the weight balance is actually very similar to the RM SC10 (with the SC10 the motor was behind but the battery sat much further forward). I use the 4 gear and Brass C.

You can try a 1.7 rear piston if you need extra rear traction, with 37wt as a starting point. The 1.7 pistons really add traction but dont land as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bds81175 View Post
Extra weight out on the end of the rear suspension (beadlock rims) would be bad for handling in general as well.
Agreed, although it can give better control of the truck in the air.
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Old 05-30-2016, 09:14 PM   #1634
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ray_munday View Post
That sounds very similar to our tracks. You need to be very disciplined in these conditions. I only add weight to the rear if my car is having traction issues exiting low speed corners (especially if you need to clear a jump just after a hairpin). The 5M layout is fantastic on lower grip tracks as the motor is mounted further back than most MM cars, so you have a low yaw inertia but still good weight balance to the rear. With the SC5M the weight balance is actually very similar to the RM SC10 (with the SC10 the motor was behind but the battery sat much further forward). I use the 4 gear and Brass C.

You can try a 1.7 rear piston if you need extra rear traction, with 37wt as a starting point. The 1.7 pistons really add traction but dont land as well.



Agreed, although it can give better control of the truck in the air.

Thanks guys.
So I will remove the beadlocs and remove my weight altogether. I think I will need some weight at the rear to have some traction as you mentioned, ray. For the 1.7 pistons I would raise the shock oil from 30 to 37.5? Okay...But I think I will leave it there, dont want to change everything at once
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Old 05-30-2016, 11:25 PM   #1635
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ray_munday View Post
That sounds very similar to our tracks. You need to be very disciplined in these conditions. I only add weight to the rear if my car is having traction issues exiting low speed corners (especially if you need to clear a jump just after a hairpin). The 5M layout is fantastic on lower grip tracks as the motor is mounted further back than most MM cars, so you have a low yaw inertia but still good weight balance to the rear. With the SC5M the weight balance is actually very similar to the RM SC10 (with the SC10 the motor was behind but the battery sat much further forward). I use the 4 gear and Brass C.

You can try a 1.7 rear piston if you need extra rear traction, with 37wt as a starting point. The 1.7 pistons really add traction but dont land as well.



Agreed, although it can give better control of the truck in the air.
I agree, the SC5M is perfect on loose tracks. It is more stable, less sensitive to centripetal force and easier to drive.
You need to soften springs and put the battery backwards.
I also like using exponential settings on the radio and reduce steering travel a bit (90%) to avoid spinning.
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