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Old 05-20-2016, 10:51 AM   #1591
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did he run buggy shocks and towers?
he has custom arms and other parts. BK's cars/trucks are never like the kits. I was looking at his truck and man, it is way off book. He makes his own sway bars from scratch. honestly man, I am not sure how much a setup sheet of his would help. He also adds a lot of brass everywhere.
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Old 05-20-2016, 11:28 AM   #1592
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im thinking of running the b6 laydown transmission and cutting my own truck shock tower ..just looks like a cleaner setup..looking forward to the parts coming out
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Old 05-20-2016, 01:55 PM   #1593
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im thinking of running the b6 laydown transmission and cutting my own truck shock tower ..just looks like a cleaner setup..looking forward to the parts coming out
Yeah this. I want this for both my T5M and my son's SC5M.
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Old 05-20-2016, 02:08 PM   #1594
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im thinking of running the b6 laydown transmission and cutting my own truck shock tower ..just looks like a cleaner setup..looking forward to the parts coming out
I have no idea if the holes will line up. If they do, great. What you need is someone to make a chassis for the b6 laydown and cut a tower. maybe SLRC or Plan B Racing will do it.
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Old 05-20-2016, 02:10 PM   #1595
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Yeah this. I want this for both my T5M and my son's SC5M.
also pickup a wwhd tranny and grab this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/WWHD-Rear-Sh...0AAOSwrXdXKokx
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Old 05-20-2016, 02:50 PM   #1596
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also pickup a wwhd tranny and grab this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/WWHD-Rear-Sh...0AAOSwrXdXKokx
I want the lowest cost solution for a laydown. Even if it requires some drilling work. I know everyone was waiting for the Factory laydown for the B5M but then we got the full new platform, which looks great. However, the big side effect, was to those of us waiting for a factory laydown transmission that would work on all 5m series platforms.

I personally didn't want an aftermarket laydown ($$$) and was waiting patiently.
At this point I will be buying a laydown transmission for my B6D (when it arrives) so will have one in hand anyway and will be able to determine if it fits.

On the other hand, people are offloading B5M's like crazy so maybe a full buggy with a laydown will be available cheap-ish. Waiting game I guess.
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Old 05-20-2016, 03:05 PM   #1597
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Does anyone know of a manufacture of cut gears for the SC5M other than CB Custom Gears? I have tried several times to contact CB with no success.
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Old 05-20-2016, 03:31 PM   #1598
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Speedy's Racing Parts.
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Old 05-20-2016, 05:00 PM   #1599
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looking at the parts closely online it looks like the b6 laydown will fit right in..except for drilling a few holes and cutting a new tower
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Old 05-21-2016, 04:58 PM   #1600
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Thanks Zeak!
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Old 05-22-2016, 10:20 PM   #1601
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Originally Posted by loopedeloop View Post
Front is kit setup.
Rear shock oil 30wt
Rear springs green. These are really soft so I ended up using 9mm spring perches.
Brass D mount.
3.5 rear toe.
5gm xtra weight added at each rear block.
Alloy rear hubs.
Alloy front hubs and castor blocks. (Front hubs by integy , very nice takes care of the bearing slop issue).
The added weight was the biggest single improvement I have seen.
Remove all spacers from inner rear camber links to raise roll centre. Do this one at a time and try it out. Roll centre changes made a real difference too.
I run AKA gridiron rear tires. Fronts don't seem to make much difference on my track. Fine pin style tires seem the go to design for our track.
Had the first test with little change:
Front is kit Setup:
Did the rear shocks for 30wt and green spring
Added 50(f*******)grams at the rear bumper (no brass stuff, just pure old weight)
went to bead locs in the rear

Still nowhere near to where I want to be. Its driveable but if you just think of accelerating two fast, you spin. On the other hand, If you go too fast into a corner the car (hard to descrive) just nose dives into the corner, the rear gets loose and spin.

Next step will be 35wt and grey spring in front, adding a gear diff with 5k oil. Hopefully that will help a bit. If still nothing I will have a look at your other mentioned stuff like roll center.

(For comparison: I've tried my B5M on the same track 32.5 front/27.5 rear (from my B5R) and added 25g in the rear - was perfectly driveable and really fast )
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Old 05-22-2016, 11:40 PM   #1602
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Ive run my SC5M on loose conditions and Ive found it very driveable. I run the Brass D block and with a shorty battery, the weight distribution is similar to my Sc10 but the handling is much more responsive.

The SC5m is much better with grey front springs and going up in front oil. It also needs the ball diff to be run much tighter than in a buggy. If you run it loose, it turns in too hard and diffs out on exit.

Ive adapted a front sway bar to my truck (JConcepts SC10 bar) and use a standard B5M rear bar and this also makes a big difference to stability in high speed sweeping corners.

Here is my setup sheet from 2 weeks ago (note that I was using 4mm trail not 2mm trail - mistake on the sheet).

Ray

http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...eilor20160507/


Quote:
Originally Posted by man1ac View Post
Had the first test with little change:
Front is kit Setup:
Did the rear shocks for 30wt and green spring
Added 50(f*******)grams at the rear bumper (no brass stuff, just pure old weight)
went to bead locs in the rear

Still nowhere near to where I want to be. Its driveable but if you just think of accelerating two fast, you spin. On the other hand, If you go too fast into a corner the car (hard to descrive) just nose dives into the corner, the rear gets loose and spin.

Next step will be 35wt and grey spring in front, adding a gear diff with 5k oil. Hopefully that will help a bit. If still nothing I will have a look at your other mentioned stuff like roll center.

(For comparison: I've tried my B5M on the same track 32.5 front/27.5 rear (from my B5R) and added 25g in the rear - was perfectly driveable and really fast )
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Old 05-23-2016, 12:34 AM   #1603
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I might borrow your front setup to try. Just looking at the vic finals our track is much dustier and rutted from 1/8 scale nitro racing. I do run my ball diff real tight too.


EDIT... Ray, do you find the rear sway bars usefull even when quite hardpacked and dry and dusty?

Last edited by loopedeloop; 05-23-2016 at 01:07 AM.
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Old 05-23-2016, 12:49 AM   #1604
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Originally Posted by ray_munday View Post
Ive run my SC5M on loose conditions and Ive found it very driveable. I run the Brass D block and with a shorty battery, the weight distribution is similar to my Sc10 but the handling is much more responsive.

The SC5m is much better with grey front springs and going up in front oil. It also needs the ball diff to be run much tighter than in a buggy. If you run it loose, it turns in too hard and diffs out on exit.

Ive adapted a front sway bar to my truck (JConcepts SC10 bar) and use a standard B5M rear bar and this also makes a big difference to stability in high speed sweeping corners.

Here is my setup sheet from 2 weeks ago (note that I was using 4mm trail not 2mm trail - mistake on the sheet).

Ray

http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...eilor20160507/
Thanks!
Would you recomment the front sway bar? I think I might tighten the Diff. It SHOULD be way to loose, cause I ran on Carpet the first time. That may be a forgotten issue
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Old 05-23-2016, 01:17 AM   #1605
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Originally Posted by loopedeloop View Post
I might borrow your front setup to try. Just looking at the vic finals our track is much dustier and rutted from 1/8 scale nitro racing. I do run my ball diff real tight too.


EDIT... Ray, do you find the rear sway bars usefull even when quite hardpacked and dry and dusty?
The track was in great condition by the finals of that event, but even when the track is looser that setup is still very easy to drive. The only time Id take the sway bars off is if the track is very low grip and very tight with no high speed sections. I find the sway bars help SCT on a rough track as there is less body roll and therefore you maintain better suspension travel during bumpy corners.

The grey front springs and 37.5wt oil make a very big difference to driveability.

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Originally Posted by man1ac View Post
Thanks!
Would you recomment the front sway bar? I think I might tighten the Diff. It SHOULD be way to loose, cause I ran on Carpet the first time. That may be a forgotten issue
The front sway bar is more important than the rear - running a rear sway bar only will reduce rear traction on a dusty surface. Running the diff too loose makes an SCT feel terrible in my experience.
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