219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
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12-09-2016, 04:19 AM
#4441
I've liked the FTW/Snow's Design Diamondback body.
12-09-2016, 06:05 AM
#4442
12-09-2016, 06:13 AM
#4443
12-09-2016, 10:04 AM
#4444
12-09-2016, 10:18 AM
#4445
Also picking the best body for racing is so hard.... My JC Raptor Xflow handles and jumps sooooo much better than my JC Illuzion HF.... In wanting to get another practice body since my HF is shreaded, and I want to use my Raptor for racing only. Thinking about getting another JC Raptor Xflow, or a Proline Flotek Raptor. Not sure how the Proline handles since I haven't owned one. What's everyone's top choices for bodies??
proline flotek raptor
proline flotek fusion
::edit:: after looking a bit more, I feel like the 2 I linked both look nice. I haven't tried proline on sct yet, but the flotek bodies seem legit and worth a try. I want a aggressive front end, and good antiparashute.
proline flotek raptor
proline flotek fusion
::edit:: after looking a bit more, I feel like the 2 I linked both look nice. I haven't tried proline on sct yet, but the flotek bodies seem legit and worth a try. I want a aggressive front end, and good antiparashute.
The only body I wouldn't run is the EVO. It's really designed for 2wd and works great for that but on a 4wd it's way to much front downforce.
12-09-2016, 10:22 AM
#4446
Tech Master
Matt, interesting you say that. I just started running the fusion body, and it's in air characteristics aren't very flattering. I was debating rattle canning the illusion f250 body and seeing if it acted better.
12-09-2016, 10:23 AM
#4447
Traction Role
Our indoor track was rebuilt 2 or 3 weeks ago and seems to have more traction more consistently than it use to. They are keeping it more moist. I've been fighting traction roll entering the turns off throttle for a while. I've changed stuff and changed it back with limited success. I looked back thru my race notes at my changes over the past few weeks to see when it started and what I had done. My notes looks like it may have started after going to a softer rear spring Y to G. But the other day I went G to P in rear and it seemed better until next race day. Then it was back to rolling. Another time, I raised droop and it worked decent until next time racing. Then it was back again. I looked again last night at my notes. Only thing that I haven't changed back that I did during that period was going from 7 10 5 diffs to 10 10 5?? Not sure if the thicker front diff oil would cause it? Any input would be appreciated and I've attached my set-up sheet.
12-09-2016, 10:29 AM
#4448
assuming the tires are still the choice to use, maybe try this:
- next level up sway bars all around
- raise up camber link on rear tower 1 position
- limit rear droop more
- lower ride height
- less rear toe
Here on high traction carpet we fight the traction roll issue. Guys have different takes on there setups, one runs pretty light diffs, other heavier. other items though look very similar.
I would say though that if your traction has come up even more, maybe the tires are not the hot ticket as they are. Maybe try a set that is more worn so you get a bit more drift.
Something came in the mail today, excited to see what it is when I get home from work
- next level up sway bars all around
- raise up camber link on rear tower 1 position
- limit rear droop more
- lower ride height
- less rear toe
Here on high traction carpet we fight the traction roll issue. Guys have different takes on there setups, one runs pretty light diffs, other heavier. other items though look very similar.
I would say though that if your traction has come up even more, maybe the tires are not the hot ticket as they are. Maybe try a set that is more worn so you get a bit more drift.
Something came in the mail today, excited to see what it is when I get home from work
12-09-2016, 01:29 PM
#4449
assuming the tires are still the choice to use, maybe try this:
- next level up sway bars all around
- raise up camber link on rear tower 1 position
- limit rear droop more
- lower ride height
- less rear toe
Here on high traction carpet we fight the traction roll issue. Guys have different takes on there setups, one runs pretty light diffs, other heavier. other items though look very similar.
I would say though that if your traction has come up even more, maybe the tires are not the hot ticket as they are. Maybe try a set that is more worn so you get a bit more drift.
Something came in the mail today, excited to see what it is when I get home from work
- next level up sway bars all around
- raise up camber link on rear tower 1 position
- limit rear droop more
- lower ride height
- less rear toe
Here on high traction carpet we fight the traction roll issue. Guys have different takes on there setups, one runs pretty light diffs, other heavier. other items though look very similar.
I would say though that if your traction has come up even more, maybe the tires are not the hot ticket as they are. Maybe try a set that is more worn so you get a bit more drift.
Something came in the mail today, excited to see what it is when I get home from work
12-09-2016, 01:31 PM
#4450
I'd agree with everything Cain said minus the going up on the rear camber link. If you're traction rolling into a turn off power the first thing I would do is go to a higher rear roll center. You already have the rear at the highest roll center position so you'll have to do some other things. Lowering the ride height is the biggest thing I see. I run 19mm front and rear with the body mounted at SDRC (high traction indoor clay track) so 24mm would be monster trucking for me 
. Also 4 degrees of toe is a lot. I usually run 2.5 or 3 degrees everywhere I go. Another thing is you have a very high roll center in the front which can make the truck feel hard to control under braking or off power. I would definitely go up on the tower in the front to the middle hole, if not all the way to the top. Another thing, if you don't already have them I would pick up the HRC rear hubs for the SC, should help since you're already at the max for rear roll center this will get you a little more. I would go down in the front sway as 2.6mm is thicker than we normally run. When you start running a sway bar that's too thick it causes handling inconsistencies as it's overpowering the springs. Go up in the rear after you've felt the change that going down in the front made. Also put the center and rear braces back on, you might have too much chassis flex adding too much rear traction as well.
. Also 4 degrees of toe is a lot. I usually run 2.5 or 3 degrees everywhere I go. Another thing is you have a very high roll center in the front which can make the truck feel hard to control under braking or off power. I would definitely go up on the tower in the front to the middle hole, if not all the way to the top. Another thing, if you don't already have them I would pick up the HRC rear hubs for the SC, should help since you're already at the max for rear roll center this will get you a little more. I would go down in the front sway as 2.6mm is thicker than we normally run. When you start running a sway bar that's too thick it causes handling inconsistencies as it's overpowering the springs. Go up in the rear after you've felt the change that going down in the front made. Also put the center and rear braces back on, you might have too much chassis flex adding too much rear traction as well.
12-09-2016, 01:39 PM
#4451
I ran the Illuzion F-250 body a couple of times but I was testing some stuff on the truck that didn't work that well so I have an unfair bad association with it, lol. I want to give it another chance because it has the built in wing in the back but I haven't had the time to get another one and my current one works so well.
12-09-2016, 03:59 PM
#4452
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Also picking the best body for racing is so hard.... My JC Raptor Xflow handles and jumps sooooo much better than my JC Illuzion HF.... In wanting to get another practice body since my HF is shreaded, and I want to use my Raptor for racing only. Thinking about getting another JC Raptor Xflow, or a Proline Flotek Raptor. Not sure how the Proline handles since I haven't owned one. What's everyone's top choices for bodies??
proline flotek raptor
proline flotek fusion
::edit:: after looking a bit more, I feel like the 2 I linked both look nice. I haven't tried proline on sct yet, but the flotek bodies seem legit and worth a try. I want a aggressive front end, and good antiparashute.
proline flotek raptor
proline flotek fusion
::edit:: after looking a bit more, I feel like the 2 I linked both look nice. I haven't tried proline on sct yet, but the flotek bodies seem legit and worth a try. I want a aggressive front end, and good antiparashute.
12-09-2016, 07:47 PM
#4454
I'd agree with everything Cain said minus the going up on the rear camber link. If you're traction rolling into a turn off power the first thing I would do is go to a higher rear roll center. You already have the rear at the highest roll center position so you'll have to do some other things. Lowering the ride height is the biggest thing I see. I run 19mm front and rear with the body mounted at SDRC (high traction indoor clay track) so 24mm would be monster trucking for me . Also 4 degrees of toe is a lot. I usually run 2.5 or 3 degrees everywhere I go. Another thing is you have a very high roll center in the front which can make the truck feel hard to control under braking or off power. I would definitely go up on the tower in the front to the middle hole, if not all the way to the top. Another thing, if you don't already have them I would pick up the HRC rear hubs for the SC, should help since you're already at the max for rear roll center this will get you a little more. I would go down in the front sway as 2.6mm is thicker than we normally run. When you start running a sway bar that's too thick it causes handling inconsistencies as it's overpowering the springs. Go up in the rear after you've felt the change that going down in the front made. Also put the center and rear braces back on, you might have too much chassis flex adding too much rear traction as well.
. Also 4 degrees of toe is a lot. I usually run 2.5 or 3 degrees everywhere I go. Another thing is you have a very high roll center in the front which can make the truck feel hard to control under braking or off power. I would definitely go up on the tower in the front to the middle hole, if not all the way to the top. Another thing, if you don't already have them I would pick up the HRC rear hubs for the SC, should help since you're already at the max for rear roll center this will get you a little more. I would go down in the front sway as 2.6mm is thicker than we normally run. When you start running a sway bar that's too thick it causes handling inconsistencies as it's overpowering the springs. Go up in the rear after you've felt the change that going down in the front made. Also put the center and rear braces back on, you might have too much chassis flex adding too much rear traction as well.