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Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread

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Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread

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Old 09-05-2022, 08:19 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: rustyus
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.




Hinge Pin Insert Chart:

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.





















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Old 10-31-2016, 06:33 PM
  #4261  
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Originally Posted by ezlight
Sorry about that, I had to scroll up to see your OG post.

Well, for starters, with a 4000kv motor you should be running an 18t pinion, or 17t is a very tight technical track.

Body I like and prefer is the jconcepts f250 body. It holds up well, and has good flight characteristics when coupled with the side air guards. I'm currently running the fusion body, but my next body I will be going back.

In air "Donkey kick"...Stiffen the rear shocks...Try 30wt oil, and green rear springs. Alot of guys like pink/pink or pink/green springs. I'm currently running green springs on all 4 corners.

Josh L also has a recommendation with anti-squat to fix that, but I don't remember what it was.

With these trucks, you'll figure out how they drive, as they like to be driven a certain way. With plenty of track time you'll get it figured out.
I have an 18t pinion, I don't think it was donkey kicking persay, it was more throttle sensitive, IE if I have it full gas to get speed for a triple when it clears the jump it rotates very quickly backwards almost vertical, if throttle cuts much at all it rotates also very quickly. I can usually keep from completely flipping it but its hard to get it to remain somewhat flat/aligned with the landing.

I've had other rigs where you could just kind of keep a smooth throttle or let off just a little bit and they would remain somewhat stable

But it wasnt like everything jump I hit it tries to go end over end/nose down
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Old 10-31-2016, 07:47 PM
  #4262  
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Originally Posted by Jaynen
I have an 18t pinion, I don't think it was donkey kicking persay, it was more throttle sensitive, IE if I have it full gas to get speed for a triple when it clears the jump it rotates very quickly backwards almost vertical, if throttle cuts much at all it rotates also very quickly. I can usually keep from completely flipping it but its hard to get it to remain somewhat flat/aligned with the landing.

I've had other rigs where you could just kind of keep a smooth throttle or let off just a little bit and they would remain somewhat stable

But it wasnt like everything jump I hit it tries to go end over end/nose down
As Ezlight mentioned, slightly stiffer rear spring can help the nose diving. The best thing is to go to absolute minimum anti-squat. That's center dot down on the C block and center dot up or double dot on the top and out on the D. I run the least amount of anti-squat in my SCT and it's good. Also be sure you're hitting the jumps under acceleration. Coasting over the dumps or being under constant throttle over the jumps can make it nose down.
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Old 10-31-2016, 10:37 PM
  #4263  
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Originally Posted by qstorm777
I just tried that tonight with a 17t. No problems. External motor temp around 140. Esc around 100. I wasn't using a tekin esc so I can't actually review any data.
After checking out the gearing calculator, the 17t seems like the sweet spot,

Thanks
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Old 11-01-2016, 02:22 AM
  #4264  
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Originally Posted by Jaynen
I have an 18t pinion, I don't think it was donkey kicking persay, it was more throttle sensitive, IE if I have it full gas to get speed for a triple when it clears the jump it rotates very quickly backwards almost vertical, if throttle cuts much at all it rotates also very quickly. I can usually keep from completely flipping it but its hard to get it to remain somewhat flat/aligned with the landing.

I've had other rigs where you could just kind of keep a smooth throttle or let off just a little bit and they would remain somewhat stable

But it wasnt like everything jump I hit it tries to go end over end/nose down
I'm also running green springs all round and 1 degree of antisquat, 3.5 deg toe which is centre dot down on C block, double dot up and out on D block.
I think to a certain degree the sensitivity to throttle or brake while jumping is the nature of sct.
If you're really struggling possibly try widening the throttle dead band/neutral width on your radio or esc to make it less sensitive to trigger inputs.
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Old 11-01-2016, 06:13 AM
  #4265  
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It might just be me needing some adjustment, just wondered if there are any ESC/Radio type settings that might help. I played with the EPA on the throttle a bit but then I could not get the speed enough to clear the triple. Mostly it was just an issue on a couple big jumps.

My 8th scale jumps "heavy" if you know what I mean like full throttle even on 4s doesnt really make it whip its nose up so its easy to keep level, run into more issues of simply overjumping because of speed/power.

My D413 was much more sensitive to air control via gyroscopic effect but if you kept a constant throttle usually stayed somewhat stable.

What constitutes minimum anti squat? I mean how do you know when you need to dial some back in?

Also this is for outdoor if it matters at this point so its an 8th scale sized track
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Old 11-01-2016, 08:03 AM
  #4266  
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Idk if this will help or not but, for me, when jumping the 410.3, it's a feel and repetition thing because each jump is different. What I find works best is to hit the jump even throttle or maybe accelerating just a little and maintain a little throttle (not full throttle) until about the apex of the jump or a little beyond and then let off. Maintaining a little throttle usually keeps it a little nose up and then I let it turn over to hit the back-side of the jump. If I goose the throttle right before a jump, about anything can happen off the face of a jump. It's something that has taken me time to develop a feel for and it is definitely a different feel from my buggies and truggy.
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Old 11-01-2016, 08:51 AM
  #4267  
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Originally Posted by Jaynen
It might just be me needing some adjustment, just wondered if there are any ESC/Radio type settings that might help. I played with the EPA on the throttle a bit but then I could not get the speed enough to clear the triple. Mostly it was just an issue on a couple big jumps.

My 8th scale jumps "heavy" if you know what I mean like full throttle even on 4s doesnt really make it whip its nose up so its easy to keep level, run into more issues of simply overjumping because of speed/power.

My D413 was much more sensitive to air control via gyroscopic effect but if you kept a constant throttle usually stayed somewhat stable.

What constitutes minimum anti squat? I mean how do you know when you need to dial some back in?

Also this is for outdoor if it matters at this point so its an 8th scale sized track

One thing that someone ran into early on, was check for clearances on your wheels. Some wheels have extra webbing on the inside of the wheel, and will cause a drag, effectively giving you a brake feel when just letting off the throttle.

Also check for any drag elsewhere also.
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Old 11-01-2016, 10:30 AM
  #4268  
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Will the SCT have some of the option parts that the EB has? Like the universals or LF springs? I can't use the uni's anyway since I use 17mm hexes, but I do like the new springs on my EB... I was glad to see the HRC hubs came out for both kits, was worried the SCT was being forgotten a little, since setup sheets and other stuff aren't really updated... and the blog really only shows results for NB/EB for the most part.
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Old 11-01-2016, 01:38 PM
  #4269  
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Originally Posted by deceit
Will the SCT have some of the option parts that the EB has? Like the universals or LF springs? I can't use the uni's anyway since I use 17mm hexes, but I do like the new springs on my EB... I was glad to see the HRC hubs came out for both kits, was worried the SCT was being forgotten a little, since setup sheets and other stuff aren't really updated... and the blog really only shows results for NB/EB for the most part.
I doubt we'll see the uni's for SCT. And not sure if the LF springs would benefit the SCT as much.
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Old 11-01-2016, 03:02 PM
  #4270  
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I had a great Saturday winning the "Fall Classis" and clinched the championship !!
My "Rcee Susupension tuned" SCT410.3 was on point(more than the driver). I thought I would share the awesome trophy pics...they were made of CNC cut metal with LED lighting. The best looking RC trophy I have ever seen !!!
#Garciagraphix
#Teknoftw
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Old 11-01-2016, 03:13 PM
  #4271  
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Congrats Lowes!!! I love watching the vids you post, your truck always looks sick.

Btw, what body mounts do you use??
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Old 11-01-2016, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by deceit
Congrats Lowes!!! I love watching the vids you post, your truck always looks sick.

Btw, what body mounts do you use??
Thanks man!!
That's the Proline mounts.
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Old 11-02-2016, 06:52 AM
  #4273  
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Originally Posted by Lowe's48
I had a great Saturday winning the "Fall Classis" and clinched the championship !!
My "Rcee Susupension tuned" SCT410.3 was on point(more than the driver). I thought I would share the awesome trophy pics...they were made of CNC cut metal with LED lighting. The best looking RC trophy I have ever seen !!!
#Garciagraphix
#Teknoftw
Congratulations. I see you race with John B. LOL Thought that body and trophy looked familiar.
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Old 11-02-2016, 07:03 AM
  #4274  
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Originally Posted by ezlight
Congratulations. I see you race with John B. LOL Thought that body and trophy looked familiar.
Thanks ez.
Do you go to Coyote as well? What do you race?
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Old 11-02-2016, 07:49 AM
  #4275  
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Originally Posted by Lowe's48
Thanks ez.
Do you go to Coyote as well? What do you race?
Nope, John B posted your pics on tekno rc nation on facebook...

I'm on the east coast, and never been to Coyote.
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