219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
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08-24-2016, 10:01 AM
#3991
ROAR rules are 2s. Not all tracks run ROAR rules. I think there are a couple people running 3s local to me. If your track allows it 3s is a better way to go. But it does pose a problem if a track that you visit only allows 2s. Or sometimes my local tracks will have a special race that is more strict on the rules and only allow 2s.
08-31-2016, 05:36 AM
#3992
How often do you guys recommend changing your fluids? After every race weekend? Once, twice a month?
I ask because I hear a ton of difference answers. Obviously I am new to racing and not a pro, so Im just looking for a realistic time frame. ("ie" not after every heat or something)
This past weekend I spent 4hrs on Sat, then 8hrs on Sunday running at the track between my two Tekno's. This kit I only has 4 visits to the track, and the other car that I drove this weekend was built this week. So both kits are pretty much new.
Do I change diff oil more often? Or vice-versa.. I wipe down my cars each day that I run, I haven't taken them apart to clean unless I'm doing a drastic setup change and I'm already there.
My friends that i run with basically never change fluids, so i wasn't sure if it was overrated or what not. I prefer to take care of my babies though.
Thanks for answering noobish questions, just trying to learn!
I ask because I hear a ton of difference answers. Obviously I am new to racing and not a pro, so Im just looking for a realistic time frame. ("ie" not after every heat or something)
This past weekend I spent 4hrs on Sat, then 8hrs on Sunday running at the track between my two Tekno's. This kit I only has 4 visits to the track, and the other car that I drove this weekend was built this week. So both kits are pretty much new.
Do I change diff oil more often? Or vice-versa.. I wipe down my cars each day that I run, I haven't taken them apart to clean unless I'm doing a drastic setup change and I'm already there.
My friends that i run with basically never change fluids, so i wasn't sure if it was overrated or what not. I prefer to take care of my babies though.
Thanks for answering noobish questions, just trying to learn!
08-31-2016, 10:50 AM
#3993
You should change diff fluids and shock fluids at least occasionally. The real answer is "when dirty", but you can't see in there to tell when that is. If you're a top racer, you change them all the time so it is super consistent and always exactly the same. If you're not a top racer, that matters less, so you care about mechanical wear and tear. For shocks, if you run boots and they're not torn, you can keep the same fluids for a long time and they'll still come out clean on the Tekno shocks. But if the boots aren't on, or get torn, etc...replace the oil as you fix that and clean the orings in the cartridge. Try changing this at the one month mark if you don't otherwise notice air in the shocks or leaking, and if the fluid is still clean, go a little longer the next time, etc.
Diffs are similar...but there are 2 key things to keep in mind.
1) The first time you put them together, you should then do a break in, which WILL dirty the fluid some. So, change diff fluids after the first or 2nd pack, or at least after the first track day of use.
2) The SCT runs composite cross pins in the diff out of the box for less rotating mass and performance. If you run these, you should probably stick to the roughly once a month or every other month diff fluid change (assuming you run at least once a week for any period of time). However, if you're running one of the metal cross pin options...it is still a good idea to do that...but you can go a LOT longer and as long as the diff still feels like it has resistance (so it isn't empty) and is smooth, you probably won't hurt anything by running it (I once did a year + and only took one apart to change the worn out outdrives, just to see if it would do it, and it was fine...but don't do that).
Fluid maintenance is something that matters more, the more your vehicle being EXACTLY the same matters to your racing skill level. If you can't feel the difference in driving it on the track yet, just worry about making sure it stays in good shape, and you'll be fine. Other vehicles that aren't Tekno often need more frequent rebuilds of things like diffs to not leak out their fluid, or shocks due to not sealing out dirt as well, but the above general rules about cleanliness of the fluids should still apply.
Diffs are similar...but there are 2 key things to keep in mind.
1) The first time you put them together, you should then do a break in, which WILL dirty the fluid some. So, change diff fluids after the first or 2nd pack, or at least after the first track day of use.
2) The SCT runs composite cross pins in the diff out of the box for less rotating mass and performance. If you run these, you should probably stick to the roughly once a month or every other month diff fluid change (assuming you run at least once a week for any period of time). However, if you're running one of the metal cross pin options...it is still a good idea to do that...but you can go a LOT longer and as long as the diff still feels like it has resistance (so it isn't empty) and is smooth, you probably won't hurt anything by running it (I once did a year + and only took one apart to change the worn out outdrives, just to see if it would do it, and it was fine...but don't do that).
Fluid maintenance is something that matters more, the more your vehicle being EXACTLY the same matters to your racing skill level. If you can't feel the difference in driving it on the track yet, just worry about making sure it stays in good shape, and you'll be fine. Other vehicles that aren't Tekno often need more frequent rebuilds of things like diffs to not leak out their fluid, or shocks due to not sealing out dirt as well, but the above general rules about cleanliness of the fluids should still apply.
08-31-2016, 05:06 PM
#3994
You should change diff fluids and shock fluids at least occasionally. The real answer is "when dirty", but you can't see in there to tell when that is. If you're a top racer, you change them all the time so it is super consistent and always exactly the same. If you're not a top racer, that matters less, so you care about mechanical wear and tear. For shocks, if you run boots and they're not torn, you can keep the same fluids for a long time and they'll still come out clean on the Tekno shocks. But if the boots aren't on, or get torn, etc...replace the oil as you fix that and clean the orings in the cartridge. Try changing this at the one month mark if you don't otherwise notice air in the shocks or leaking, and if the fluid is still clean, go a little longer the next time, etc.
Diffs are similar...but there are 2 key things to keep in mind.
1) The first time you put them together, you should then do a break in, which WILL dirty the fluid some. So, change diff fluids after the first or 2nd pack, or at least after the first track day of use.
2) The SCT runs composite cross pins in the diff out of the box for less rotating mass and performance. If you run these, you should probably stick to the roughly once a month or every other month diff fluid change (assuming you run at least once a week for any period of time). However, if you're running one of the metal cross pin options...it is still a good idea to do that...but you can go a LOT longer and as long as the diff still feels like it has resistance (so it isn't empty) and is smooth, you probably won't hurt anything by running it (I once did a year + and only took one apart to change the worn out outdrives, just to see if it would do it, and it was fine...but don't do that).
Fluid maintenance is something that matters more, the more your vehicle being EXACTLY the same matters to your racing skill level. If you can't feel the difference in driving it on the track yet, just worry about making sure it stays in good shape, and you'll be fine. Other vehicles that aren't Tekno often need more frequent rebuilds of things like diffs to not leak out their fluid, or shocks due to not sealing out dirt as well, but the above general rules about cleanliness of the fluids should still apply.
Diffs are similar...but there are 2 key things to keep in mind.
1) The first time you put them together, you should then do a break in, which WILL dirty the fluid some. So, change diff fluids after the first or 2nd pack, or at least after the first track day of use.
2) The SCT runs composite cross pins in the diff out of the box for less rotating mass and performance. If you run these, you should probably stick to the roughly once a month or every other month diff fluid change (assuming you run at least once a week for any period of time). However, if you're running one of the metal cross pin options...it is still a good idea to do that...but you can go a LOT longer and as long as the diff still feels like it has resistance (so it isn't empty) and is smooth, you probably won't hurt anything by running it (I once did a year + and only took one apart to change the worn out outdrives, just to see if it would do it, and it was fine...but don't do that).
Fluid maintenance is something that matters more, the more your vehicle being EXACTLY the same matters to your racing skill level. If you can't feel the difference in driving it on the track yet, just worry about making sure it stays in good shape, and you'll be fine. Other vehicles that aren't Tekno often need more frequent rebuilds of things like diffs to not leak out their fluid, or shocks due to not sealing out dirt as well, but the above general rules about cleanliness of the fluids should still apply.
09-01-2016, 05:28 PM
#3995
Thank you for the informative post. I had a Losi SCTe and it's shocks and diffs were awful... So far my Tekno's have been great, although they are new. I will definitely redo them once a month, unless I feel they see dirty. I wish that the shock boots were more durable though. Got a tear on one on my second day running.
09-04-2016, 05:33 PM
#3996
My new lid- a nod to Williams F1 and vintage Martini Racing
09-04-2016, 06:34 PM
#3997
09-04-2016, 06:46 PM
#3998
Thanks, yes I did. I am terrible at painting, so I used lots of tape. Used pearl white too, looks betting person than in the photo
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
09-04-2016, 09:14 PM
#3999
Do you guys have a goto setup when hitting a new track? I just found 2 new outdoor tracks and have been running my ebug on them. I plan on using my sct this week, but I don't know of a "go to" setup like the eb48.3 has. For the EB48.3 the Joe Bornhorst SNats setup is really popular, along with his Wicked Weekends setup. Is there a similar popular setup for the SCT?
09-05-2016, 07:20 AM
#4000
Do you guys have a goto setup when hitting a new track? I just found 2 new outdoor tracks and have been running my ebug on them. I plan on using my sct this week, but I don't know of a "go to" setup like the eb48.3 has. For the EB48.3 the Joe Bornhorst SNats setup is really popular, along with his Wicked Weekends setup. Is there a similar popular setup for the SCT?
http://www.teknorc.com/setup-sheets/
I used one of Jeremy McGuigan's setups. Find one that matches your track and driving style.
09-05-2016, 07:30 AM
#4001
You might already know about this but there are many setup sheets here:
http://www.teknorc.com/setup-sheets/
I used one of Jeremy McGuigan's setups. Find one that matches your track and driving style.
http://www.teknorc.com/setup-sheets/
I used one of Jeremy McGuigan's setups. Find one that matches your track and driving style.
09-05-2016, 05:55 PM
#4002
What long wear tires do you guys recommend for the truck? On my eb48.3 at my track I use aka impact or Ibeam mediums for practice and super soft impact or X4 proline holeshots for racing.
Having trouble finding the medium wear on the impacts for the short course so open for any comparable suggestions.
Having trouble finding the medium wear on the impacts for the short course so open for any comparable suggestions.
Blue or green compound. I run green most all the timr unless your track surface is hot (85* F or higher).
Also for those looking for bodies the JC HiFlow 2 fits & looks awesome.
The Hazard sctE wheels look & work great without any clearance issue.
09-07-2016, 10:24 PM
#4003
Well folks... I had picked up this truck a month or so ago and just finished my second day at our track out here.. Indoor clay...
Being a newbie at all things RC, I'll say this truck can take a beating.
Btw.. Just finished this entire thread.. Y'all have taught me tons about this truck..
Being a newbie at all things RC, I'll say this truck can take a beating.
Btw.. Just finished this entire thread.. Y'all have taught me tons about this truck..
09-09-2016, 07:39 AM
#4004
Tech Master
Well folks... I had picked up this truck a month or so ago and just finished my second day at our track out here.. Indoor clay...
Being a newbie at all things RC, I'll say this truck can take a beating.
Btw.. Just finished this entire thread.. Y'all have taught me tons about this truck..
Being a newbie at all things RC, I'll say this truck can take a beating.
Btw.. Just finished this entire thread.. Y'all have taught me tons about this truck..
I took 1st by 4 laps last Sunday on a dirt oval, after almost being a lap down due to being taken out in turn 1. Man it was smiles for miles!!
09-11-2016, 08:17 PM
#4005
Ran my EB and my SCT today, and wow.. first time on the track with the SCT in awhile, and everytime I hit the bigger jumps the front end would just fly up... I have plenty of air holes in my body, (Jconcepts flotek). It has holes all along the bed, the taillights, 3 on the hood, etc... All day I feel like it jumped like utty trash compared to my EB. Part of that could be setup, but I felt like it handled awful. Last time I ran it, which was about 2 months ago I remember it having more of a nose dive issue, which I had 0 of today, it was all nose up. Any ideas how to get rid of that?
