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Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread

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Old 09-05-2022, 08:19 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: rustyus
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.




Hinge Pin Insert Chart:

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.





















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Old 06-03-2016, 02:39 PM
  #3751  
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Originally Posted by weedsnager
I've had my truck to the track around 8 times and I'm having an issue with the rear end....it seems like its all over the place. It fishtails out of the turns. What do I tweak first?
Springs are pink/pink, dif oil is 7-5-3. Track is a large outdoor dirt with dust
Change your differential oil 7-7-3 i been that differetial oil and not happy fish tailing hard to drive. And go to tekno website look Daniel Lewis set up the best fit to my driving style
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Old 06-03-2016, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by weedsnager
I've had my truck to the track around 8 times and I'm having an issue with the rear end....it seems like its all over the place. It fishtails out of the turns. What do I tweak first?
Springs are pink/pink, dif oil is 7-5-3. Track is a large outdoor dirt with dust
Did you install the steering limiter washers ??
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Old 06-04-2016, 05:08 AM
  #3753  
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Originally Posted by Lowe's48
Did you install the steering limiter washers ??
Yes
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Old 06-04-2016, 09:13 AM
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you can try gearing down pinion .
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Old 06-04-2016, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Hoese37
Hobbywing 3656SD. Outside temps are 90 or more. Tracks range everywhere from small to 1/8 large.
Hoese37, a while back I asked you about the Hobbywing 3656SD 4700kv. You said you were running it with 18t pinion and coming off with good temps. If you don't mind divulging, what esc are you using and what are your settings? I want to give the HW 4700 another shot.

Thanks.
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Old 06-05-2016, 12:59 PM
  #3756  
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Originally Posted by weedsnager
I've had my truck to the track around 8 times and I'm having an issue with the rear end....it seems like its all over the place. It fishtails out of the turns. What do I tweak first?
Springs are pink/pink, dif oil is 7-5-3. Track is a large outdoor dirt with dust
Can you share with us your setup in detail? So we can try to help ! Thx
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Old 06-05-2016, 07:40 PM
  #3757  
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Originally Posted by Lowe's48
Can you share with us your setup in detail? So we can try to help ! Thx
2nd that. One thing you may do is set your current limiter back to say 60% or less if running a Tekin esc. I don't know the terminology for other escs.
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Old 06-06-2016, 04:19 PM
  #3758  
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Originally Posted by qstorm777
Hoese37, a while back I asked you about the Hobbywing 3656SD 4700kv. You said you were running it with 18t pinion and coming off with good temps. If you don't mind divulging, what esc are you using and what are your settings? I want to give the HW 4700 another shot.

Thanks.
18 seems a bit high. I have had a lot of luck running up to a 17 on my 4700, but it seems to temp best with a 15-16 and still has more than enough leg down the straights. The HW 4700 in my opinion is second to none I have seen thus far in it's class. Also get a cap pack on there.
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Old 06-06-2016, 07:09 PM
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Take into consideration how pinion/spur ratio reacts to tire diameter. Ive found the 17t works better with say Primes . If ya try a 16t with Primes , when ya let off the throttle the truck revs and throws the breaks on . Kinda like down shifting your 1:1 vehicle.. But yet 16T works great with Gladiators that are reall tall..
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Old 06-06-2016, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by SerpJimmy
Take into consideration how pinion/spur ratio reacts to tire diameter. I've found the 17t works better with say Primes . If ya try a 16t with Primes , when ya let off the throttle the truck revs and throws the breaks on . Kinda like down shifting your 1:1 vehicle.. But yet 16T works great with Gladiators that are reall tall..
Guess I never considered this, because I like to use 8% drag brake on mine anyhow. But the new hobbywing ESC's have a coast feature that would also eliminate the drag effect as it's essentially the opposite of that.
I think people then to forget about radio programming a lot to.
When I was primarily into airplanes and helicopters, programming was common place any most people understood it to a higher degree. But I have noticed that a lot of RC car people have all their super nice radios, yet still don't utilize the functions due to not really understanding them.
With in saying this, there are alternate ways to avoid over heating by optimizing your expo, or VTR on the radio, rather than by adjusting punch.
For instance, I run a 3-4 punch with both a hobbywing SCT pro, and XR8. The SCT pro feels plenty powerful with that setting because it has a low resolution PWM band width. While the XR8 uses a hybrid mode (switching sensor mode) that uses a high resolution PWM band that feels like it has no power until you bring the punch all the way up. But if you bring the punch all the way up, your now allow to much current flow and causing massive resistance on the packs, which in turn seems to over heat the system on 2S setups like with an SCT. Anyhow to avoid that all I did was set my VTR to a spare channel on my rotary dial on the 4PX. With the shift point being set at 20% I can increase or decrease my VTR with the dial on the fly. No more punch problems or over heating the system.
Hope everyone follows what Im saying. IF not I can make a video demo
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Old 06-07-2016, 03:28 AM
  #3761  
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Well, using all your radio features would involve reading the manual , and that would really suck..
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Old 06-07-2016, 03:41 AM
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Originally Posted by SerpJimmy
Well, using all your radio features would involve reading the manual , and that would really suck..
Haha, its not that bad! It's actually like a huge hidden advantage once you get used to setting things up on the fly to hone in things like expo, steering speed, return delays, VTR, Expo so on. When you can push a return switch or turn a dial to make an incremental adjustment, often your the only one on the track that can truly concentrate on holding a line, rather than having to managing your accelerations to prevent traction breaking or adjusting down over steer. By the second qualifier I can have my truck dialed to the point of not even worrying about such things. In my opinion this is the only way anyone can really get an optimal setup per track condition. To be able to adjust on the fly during a time run beats the snot out of playing with ESC setting and hoping you got it right.
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Old 06-07-2016, 06:33 AM
  #3763  
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Originally Posted by Josh L
18 seems a bit high. I have had a lot of luck running up to a 17 on my 4700, but it seems to temp best with a 15-16 and still has more than enough leg down the straights. The HW 4700 in my opinion is second to none I have seen thus far in it's class. Also get a cap pack on there.
My tekin RX8 gen2 (and perhaps the HW XR8) have caps on the battery leads, from my understanding. Are you still adding caps if running those esc's?
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Old 06-07-2016, 06:36 AM
  #3764  
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What is VTR? I haven't seen those acronyms.
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Old 06-07-2016, 06:43 AM
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What is VTR? I haven't seen those acronyms.
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