Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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#1367
Just purchased the aluminum from Sumo and will let everyone know how they hold up
I have the same question, do the regular screws work and how does the front skid go under the bumper? any advice on setup.
Also looking to get another set for a used SCT410 on ebay. Aswild - is $175-$200 a good deal for a roller?
thx
I have the same question, do the regular screws work and how does the front skid go under the bumper? any advice on setup.
Also looking to get another set for a used SCT410 on ebay. Aswild - is $175-$200 a good deal for a roller?
thx
#1368
Tech Adept
#1369
Tech Adept
Would there be any interest in 7075 alum shock towers from M2C racing? I have already bent two of the stock rear shock towers. Just purchased the cf, but I prefer to run alum. If there is enough interest, they would probably make them. Idk if they need to be 4 or 5 mm.
They would have to be a considerable amount cheaper than the cf ones though or I'd just go with those
#1370
For the ride height should it be to the skidplate or to the chassis? Like if the skid plate is 1.4 and the goal height is 24mm then would the the bottom of the skidplate need to be at 22.6 or 24?
#1371
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
The best compromise I've seen to this day is the M2c racing chassis steel skid plate inserts. Absolutely genius idea.
#1372
In order to run the same thing as others with the truck, you would need to measure ride height from the chassis. This is why most people don't use skid plates, as they reduce ground clearance. If you raised the ride height to get the clearance back, your roll centers would be off.
The best compromise I've seen to this day is the M2c racing chassis steel skid plate inserts. Absolutely genius idea.
The best compromise I've seen to this day is the M2c racing chassis steel skid plate inserts. Absolutely genius idea.
Ok so what is the problem with the castle sidewinder sct setup?(it is the sct edition of the esc) Is the motor too weak or does the esc not provide enough amps? I'm kinda confused as to what sct it is for as a four pole is a bit overkill in 2wd and if it can not pull a 4wd what is it for?
Basically what I'm asking is that do yall think if I got a sensor less hobbywing motor would this system work for the car?
#1373
#1374
Tech Rookie
finding correct battery weight
Hi,
I've read through this entire thread and through more than half the 1700 page sct410 thread, but cannot find a way to determine battery weight to balance the car left to right. I hope someone can help.
I just got into RC for the first time, after drooling over it for my entire life. Decided to go all out and get a SCT410.3 with waterproof electronics (it rain a lot here)
I'm running a 4S setup, with an Orion R8 WP (110g), an Orion Neon 550 2400 (265g), an 80g servo and a 10g Rx, so my electronics are about 100g heavier than a Tekin Rx8/4300HD setup many of you run.
Now for the battery, the last components to buy. As it is 4s, I'm obviously not racing it in a competition (only against myself), so runtime or mAh is not critical either. I do would like to jump straight though. I tried several ways of weighing the car (don't have a 4 wheel scales setup), but the hysteresis in the shocks and tires, together with the inaccuracies make it next to impossible to get a consistent reproducible measurement. It seems that the mass of the battery spreads ¾ to ¼ over left and right, but can't even say so for sure. My measurements also seem to show I need a 700g battery to balance the truck, which seems a bit extreme. Hence my request for help:
How can I find the optimum mass of the battery? Or am I trying to solve a made up problem and is a 200g mass difference not noticeable during jumping? I really hope someone can help.
Cheers, RCRijder
I've read through this entire thread and through more than half the 1700 page sct410 thread, but cannot find a way to determine battery weight to balance the car left to right. I hope someone can help.
I just got into RC for the first time, after drooling over it for my entire life. Decided to go all out and get a SCT410.3 with waterproof electronics (it rain a lot here)
I'm running a 4S setup, with an Orion R8 WP (110g), an Orion Neon 550 2400 (265g), an 80g servo and a 10g Rx, so my electronics are about 100g heavier than a Tekin Rx8/4300HD setup many of you run.
Now for the battery, the last components to buy. As it is 4s, I'm obviously not racing it in a competition (only against myself), so runtime or mAh is not critical either. I do would like to jump straight though. I tried several ways of weighing the car (don't have a 4 wheel scales setup), but the hysteresis in the shocks and tires, together with the inaccuracies make it next to impossible to get a consistent reproducible measurement. It seems that the mass of the battery spreads ¾ to ¼ over left and right, but can't even say so for sure. My measurements also seem to show I need a 700g battery to balance the truck, which seems a bit extreme. Hence my request for help:
How can I find the optimum mass of the battery? Or am I trying to solve a made up problem and is a 200g mass difference not noticeable during jumping? I really hope someone can help.
Cheers, RCRijder
#1375
Hi,
I've read through this entire thread and through more than half the 1700 page sct410 thread, but cannot find a way to determine battery weight to balance the car left to right. I hope someone can help.
I just got into RC for the first time, after drooling over it for my entire life. Decided to go all out and get a SCT410.3 with waterproof electronics (it rain a lot here)
I'm running a 4S setup, with an Orion R8 WP (110g), an Orion Neon 550 2400 (265g), an 80g servo and a 10g Rx, so my electronics are about 100g heavier than a Tekin Rx8/4300HD setup many of you run.
Now for the battery, the last components to buy. As it is 4s, I'm obviously not racing it in a competition (only against myself), so runtime or mAh is not critical either. I do would like to jump straight though. I tried several ways of weighing the car (don't have a 4 wheel scales setup), but the hysteresis in the shocks and tires, together with the inaccuracies make it next to impossible to get a consistent reproducible measurement. It seems that the mass of the battery spreads ¾ to ¼ over left and right, but can't even say so for sure. My measurements also seem to show I need a 700g battery to balance the truck, which seems a bit extreme. Hence my request for help:
How can I find the optimum mass of the battery? Or am I trying to solve a made up problem and is a 200g mass difference not noticeable during jumping? I really hope someone can help.
Cheers, RCRijder
I've read through this entire thread and through more than half the 1700 page sct410 thread, but cannot find a way to determine battery weight to balance the car left to right. I hope someone can help.
I just got into RC for the first time, after drooling over it for my entire life. Decided to go all out and get a SCT410.3 with waterproof electronics (it rain a lot here)
I'm running a 4S setup, with an Orion R8 WP (110g), an Orion Neon 550 2400 (265g), an 80g servo and a 10g Rx, so my electronics are about 100g heavier than a Tekin Rx8/4300HD setup many of you run.
Now for the battery, the last components to buy. As it is 4s, I'm obviously not racing it in a competition (only against myself), so runtime or mAh is not critical either. I do would like to jump straight though. I tried several ways of weighing the car (don't have a 4 wheel scales setup), but the hysteresis in the shocks and tires, together with the inaccuracies make it next to impossible to get a consistent reproducible measurement. It seems that the mass of the battery spreads ¾ to ¼ over left and right, but can't even say so for sure. My measurements also seem to show I need a 700g battery to balance the truck, which seems a bit extreme. Hence my request for help:
How can I find the optimum mass of the battery? Or am I trying to solve a made up problem and is a 200g mass difference not noticeable during jumping? I really hope someone can help.
Cheers, RCRijder
One quick and easy thing you can do without any special tools is load the battery compartment with the amount of weight you think you need and then pick up the truck with your pointer fingers hooked under the center of the front and rear shock towers. It should want to hang that way reasonably balanced, if it wants to fall it will fall to the heavier side.
You also might want to ask the eb48 guys, its layout is nearly identical to the sct410 and the electronics they run are the same weight as the ones you're looking at.
#1376
Tech Addict
shock towers
If I made these, I would use 4 mm 7075 t6 material.
I have made shock towers for most of the major brands of 1/8 scale and the 4 mm that we use
is much stronger than the Europian 7075 t0 material
Question: I read the description of the part.
Is the (.3) towers 6 mm shorter than the (.2)
If this is true they would not work with the .2 model unless you changed shocks also.
lmk if I am thinking correctly.
I have made shock towers for most of the major brands of 1/8 scale and the 4 mm that we use
is much stronger than the Europian 7075 t0 material
Question: I read the description of the part.
Is the (.3) towers 6 mm shorter than the (.2)
If this is true they would not work with the .2 model unless you changed shocks also.
lmk if I am thinking correctly.
#1377
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
[QUOTE=theboss13;14069283]Ok so what is the problem with the castle sidewinder sct setup?(it is the sct edition of the esc) Is the motor too weak or does the esc not provide enough amps? I'm kinda confused as to what sct it is for as a four pole is a bit overkill in 2wd and if it can not pull a 4wd what is it for?QUOTE]
Its pretty much made for the Slash. A light weight vehicle. At one point on their site Castle recommended the vehicle be under 5.5lbs to run it. The Tekno is just too big for the 65A ESC to handle.
#1379
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
If I made these, I would use 4 mm 7075 t6 material.
I have made shock towers for most of the major brands of 1/8 scale and the 4 mm that we use
is much stronger than the Europian 7075 t0 material
Question: I read the description of the part.
Is the (.3) towers 6 mm shorter than the (.2)
If this is true they would not work with the .2 model unless you changed shocks also.
lmk if I am thinking correctly.
I have made shock towers for most of the major brands of 1/8 scale and the 4 mm that we use
is much stronger than the Europian 7075 t0 material
Question: I read the description of the part.
Is the (.3) towers 6 mm shorter than the (.2)
If this is true they would not work with the .2 model unless you changed shocks also.
lmk if I am thinking correctly.
#1380
With all that I am, I abhor hand threading these effing ball cups!!!!!!