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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 06-26-2015, 10:59 AM   #1381
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When assembling or disassembling shocks, use a 17mm wrench on the shock body to break loose cap or cartridge. No need to buy expensive fancy specialty tools.
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Old 06-26-2015, 11:22 AM   #1382
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noize View Post
With all that I am, I abhor hand threading these effing ball cups!!!!!!
A drill is your friend.
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Old 06-26-2015, 12:30 PM   #1383
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When assembling or disassembling shocks, use a 17mm wrench on the shock body to break loose cap or cartridge. No need to buy expensive fancy specialty tools.
I like that it holds the shock shaft as well as having the different sizes for the rest of the shocks
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Old 06-26-2015, 12:44 PM   #1384
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I like that it holds the shock shaft as well as having the different sizes for the rest of the shocks
It's better than waterpump pliers and a rag.....
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Old 06-26-2015, 03:33 PM   #1385
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[QUOTE=Hoese37;14069549]No need to worry about the towers. The rear is now 5MM thick, and the front has lost the recesses for the stand off. So there is now more beef in the towers which will reduce breakage.

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Originally Posted by theboss13 View Post
Ok so what is the problem with the castle sidewinder sct setup?(it is the sct edition of the esc) Is the motor too weak or does the esc not provide enough amps? I'm kinda confused as to what sct it is for as a four pole is a bit overkill in 2wd and if it can not pull a 4wd what is it for?QUOTE]

Its pretty much made for the Slash. A light weight vehicle. At one point on their site Castle recommended the vehicle be under 5.5lbs to run it. The Tekno is just too big for the 65A ESC to handle.
Ok I called castle and talked to them and they stated that a vehicle like the tekno is what the sidewinder sct is made for....they told me 6.5 and the tekno weighs 6.2 with rx8 and sct motor....... And it is much less with normal electronics...... And as for the motor the man I talked to said it was basically a 550 rotor stuffed in to a 540 can as roar did not like the power the 550 made and so to get around it they stuffed it in a 540 can which there where no rules for in 4wd sct as it was considered too weak to drive a 4x4..... I'm giving it a shot tomorrow and we shall see..... Hopefully it works as claimed lol
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Old 06-26-2015, 03:40 PM   #1386
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Aswild: About to place my last bid. Looking at $220 for the new SCT410 partially assembled. The other used one has 15hrs left on Ebay and was going to bid $200. I think those are great deals compared to the quality of the durango. your thoughts?
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Old 06-26-2015, 05:39 PM   #1387
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barillms View Post
When assembling or disassembling shocks, use a 17mm wrench on the shock body to break loose cap or cartridge. No need to buy expensive fancy specialty tools.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeinsocal View Post
I like that it holds the shock shaft as well as having the different sizes for the rest of the shocks
Does more than just that. Also does pistons and shafts, and has a ball stud installation and removal tool. Its their take on the Protek shock pliers. Its nice having the right tool for the job.
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Old 06-26-2015, 06:03 PM   #1388
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Default Air Guards from 410 don't fit - Where to find some?

Ordered these from Omni models. They new nerf guards do not have the same hole placement. Further, even if you drill new ones, this this doesn't fit. the holes would be too close to the edge and they would crack to the side. Does anyone know who makes Air Guards? Preferably Carbon Fiber (can't find hot laps anymore)?

Below doesn't fit

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Tekno-R-...6#ht_952wt_834
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Old 06-26-2015, 06:12 PM   #1389
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Then you either have them on the wrong side or are upside down. The side guards and nerf bars did not change from the original design. There are also a left and right side. You may also have the actual nerf bar on the wrong side. One is longer than the other.
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Last edited by Hoese37; 06-26-2015 at 06:23 PM.
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Old 06-26-2015, 06:23 PM   #1390
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Bonehead I am. One was upside down. Still would like the carbon fiber ones. These are flimsy. Mainly using to keep dirt out. Do you know who makes them?
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Old 06-26-2015, 06:25 PM   #1391
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Even tho they are flimsy, they are located in a spot where not much stress is placed on them. I had them on my original truck for 2 years with zero issues.
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Old 06-26-2015, 06:27 PM   #1392
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-SCT410...1#ht_59wt_1021

Looking for these carbon fiber air guards on this roller, may get outbid on this...
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Old 06-26-2015, 06:30 PM   #1393
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Yes those are the Hot Laps. Not really carbon fiber, they were a fiber reinforced plastic. You could make similar by using shoe goo and fiber drywall tape on the Tekno guards.
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Old 06-26-2015, 06:33 PM   #1394
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCRijder View Post
Hi,
I've read through this entire thread and through more than half the 1700 page sct410 thread, but cannot find a way to determine battery weight to balance the car left to right. I hope someone can help.

I just got into RC for the first time, after drooling over it for my entire life. Decided to go all out and get a SCT410.3 with waterproof electronics (it rain a lot here)
I'm running a 4S setup, with an Orion R8 WP (110g), an Orion Neon 550 2400 (265g), an 80g servo and a 10g Rx, so my electronics are about 100g heavier than a Tekin Rx8/4300HD setup many of you run.

Now for the battery, the last components to buy. As it is 4s, I'm obviously not racing it in a competition (only against myself), so runtime or mAh is not critical either. I do would like to jump straight though. I tried several ways of weighing the car (don't have a 4 wheel scales setup), but the hysteresis in the shocks and tires, together with the inaccuracies make it next to impossible to get a consistent reproducible measurement. It seems that the mass of the battery spreads to over left and right, but can't even say so for sure. My measurements also seem to show I need a 700g battery to balance the truck, which seems a bit extreme. Hence my request for help:

How can I find the optimum mass of the battery? Or am I trying to solve a made up problem and is a 200g mass difference not noticeable during jumping? I really hope someone can help.
Cheers, RCRijder
The truck has plenty of power with a 2s system if your planning a 4s system you may want to seriously consider beefing up the drive train as tekno specifically designed the .3 to be very light and run 2s, there is no way the plastic spur and diffs will handle the power and torque of a 4s, i would consider 3s to be the maximum for the truckin its current form just my opinion based on the damage i have seen a 4s do to the stock drive train.
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Old 06-26-2015, 06:36 PM   #1395
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Thx - Maybe I'll just buy this roller and swap out to air guards. Like my 410.3 so much I'm going to find another to run 3s-4s just to practice on with a 3000kv motor. What are your thoughts on that roller? there is another one too just built never used on Ebay...
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