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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 06-22-2015, 01:09 PM   #1306
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Yea that was the issue I drilled top per the instructions then drilled the emulsion bleeder hole
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Old 06-22-2015, 01:10 PM   #1307
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Originally Posted by Kave View Post
Myself, and many others, use the emulsion hole as the bleeder hole so that we have the option to build the shocks either way. You are totally ok to just leave that hole unplugged and not drill the other one. Or you could plug it with the included screws and drill the other one.
This is what I did
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Old 06-22-2015, 07:28 PM   #1308
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Just got my kit on the way, any must haves, and do the air guards from the origional kit work with this? Thanks, any wait to give it a run
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Old 06-22-2015, 08:33 PM   #1309
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Originally Posted by mxturd View Post
Just got my kit on the way, any must haves, and do the air guards from the origional kit work with this? Thanks, any wait to give it a run
Same guards, aluminum servo horn. Only must haves.

Nice to have springs, 6x1.5 pistons.
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Old 06-22-2015, 09:28 PM   #1310
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Truck en route. Setting up similar to my SL
RX8
HW 4700kv Xerun motor
Savox 2274
Green rear springs
Alum hexes
Air guards
Mud guards
f250 body
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Old 06-22-2015, 11:00 PM   #1311
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Originally Posted by mxturd View Post
Just got my kit on the way, any must haves, and do the air guards from the original kit work with this? Thanks, any wait to give it a run
Aluminum servo horn is always a good idea. The air guards will bolt right up, no changes were made in that area

I guess I should refresh my page when I return to my computer 3+ hours later
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Old 06-23-2015, 01:11 AM   #1312
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Originally Posted by FAO View Post
Recently got my LRP Dynamic 10l 4600. I opened it up to inspect the used one. It is build very clean and got carbon fibre around the rotor. The gaps between the slots are filled with green cement. Windigs are parrallel and as short as possible. (Did you ever see a Tekin winding? Horrible!)

Installed it with a 14 teeth pinion an tested in the backyard.

I only could compare it to:
Reedy 550 3500 4 pole
LRP x12l 4700 2 pole
Tenshock 412 4600 4 pole

and it is has much more "punch". Would be very difficult to use on slippery, dusty tracks. Temperature was no problem because of the small pinion.
Did you have any problems getting this motor mounted? On mine, it looks like the 3 front screws extend past the front cap preventing me from getting a flush mount of the motor mount against the front of the motor. As a result, the motor is hitting the onboard motor mount. I hope that makes sense.
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Old 06-23-2015, 07:33 AM   #1313
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Originally Posted by mxturd View Post
Just got my kit on the way, any must haves, and do the air guards from the origional kit work with this? Thanks, any wait to give it a run
You may find that the front hingepin brace in aluminum is worth picking up as there were some reports of breakage on the sct410.3 . The previous sct410 included an aluminum front hingepin brace due to breakage issues they saw. At a minimum, maybe have a spare set on hand.

I'd probably pick up the +1 mm CNC hexes too. not from a durability perspective but I liked the handling and didn't get any rubbing issues with those.
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Old 06-23-2015, 07:50 AM   #1314
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Originally Posted by theboss13 View Post
Does anyone know how each of these effects the truck? I've built emulsion and bladder but never vented.
Emulsion mixes air and oil. the air mixed in will compress slightly during quick compressions. This makes the oil feel lighter than it really is. The oil mixing also makes the shocks inconsistent. Not venting the cap on a bladder build will make the shock slightly firmer as it compresses. Venting the shock makes bleeding much easier, and allows it to be more "dead".

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Originally Posted by iibauti View Post
Any suggestions on what body works good on the .3. Was thinking proline evo sc.
JC F250 or the Titan. Ive heard good reports of the FTW body as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by apatz01 View Post
Thanks and just so I'm understanding you right I will leave both the vent on top and the bleeder hole open right
If you have drilled the center hole in the top for the vent, and the bleeder hole, you wont be able to do an emulsion build. You will need to drill the hole in the side otherwise there is no way to bleed the bladder build.
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Old 06-23-2015, 07:51 AM   #1315
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I agree the upgraded +1 hexes were a good idea and my front composite braces are taking a beating I will probably get the aluminum ones to.
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Old 06-23-2015, 09:48 AM   #1316
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So i am going to do all the fluid change in diffs ,my qustion is ,,,how do u do it just take the hole front an rear end off an take shocks off,, just go in reverse from the instructions or is there a deffrent way to do it.
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Old 06-23-2015, 10:46 AM   #1317
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Originally Posted by FastPete View Post
Same guards,


DO THIS HELP OUTDOORS? or more for indoor tracks
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Old 06-23-2015, 11:22 AM   #1318
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Originally Posted by Motorman007 View Post
DO THIS HELP OUTDOORS? or more for indoor tracks
It will help more outdoors than indoors most likely since most outdoor tracks have bigger jumps. The large jumps is where air can have a parachute effect on the body. The air guards help prevent that.
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Old 06-23-2015, 11:55 AM   #1319
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So i am going to do all the fluid change in diffs ,my qustion is ,,,how do u do it just take the hole front an rear end off an take shocks off,, just go in reverse from the instructions or is there a deffrent way to do it.
I'm prob not the best person to answer this, but on shocks, just loosen top nut and bottom screw.

Rear end, i remove the 4 chassis screws and the top rear brace screw. From there, I loosen the sway bars on the arms, the two lower rear bumper screws and the 1st 2 screws the manual have you install when putting the diff case together.

Similar on the front end. Also have to remove 2 screws attaching top plate to diff and probably loosen the other 3 top plate screws. I also loosen the steering links at the c-hub.

I know some people can remove the rear diff (and maybe the front) without removing the whole rear/front ends. I can get the diff out this way, but putting them back is a pain with the diff shims.
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Old 06-23-2015, 01:12 PM   #1320
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
anyone using a staggered piston setup on this vehicle? (8 x 1.2 front / 8 x 1.3 rear for example)
Hey bud, can you explain in what situation this would be beneficial? How would the stagger effect the handling of the truck?
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