219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
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06-17-2015, 08:31 AM
#1201
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
I agree with the Hobbywing esc's and motors comments. They are very good for the money and the motors are on par with almost everything out there. Just remember that something has to give to drop the price. Could be marketing expenses, component quality, warranty, quality control etc.
Pretty sure I never said anything bad about them and if you go through my previous posts I stated I like the HW motors.
Pretty sure I never said anything bad about them and if you go through my previous posts I stated I like the HW motors.
Just saying.
06-17-2015, 08:42 AM
#1202
I've just sold a Tekin RX8 gen2 to get more HW esc,I have 3 cars in the present time ....they are Tekno sct410.3:HW sctpro/Tekin 4300hd
Tekno SL.3 :RX8 gen2/ Tekin 4300hd (sold Tekin for HW)
Losi MIP scte :HW sctpro/Tekin 4300hd
The RX8 came with the superlite when i bought it and no matter how i adjust it , it never as fast as my other Hobbywing plus my Hobbywing have out last my buddys RX8 3 to 1 !!
Sct pro runs cool,fast and very efficient . I race every weekend...club and sanction races. The Hobbywing got me podium every time i'm out.
I'm not bashing on RX8 but you don't have to pay double to win races if you paired it with the right motor and set ups.
BTW:the HW is 3 years old in my SCTE and still winning !!!
06-17-2015, 08:51 AM
#1203
I don't think things are better because they cost more, maybe it seems that way. I am willing to try anything and if it works without issue I will continue to use them.
To keep this on topic, do you guys sand the diff cases? I read over on the ET48 thread that they are having a problem with the diffs leaking and they sand the edge on the case to flatten it out. I've built three Tekno and a set of spare diffs without touching them at all and they don't leak a drop.
06-17-2015, 09:25 AM
#1204
That is true and I'm not disputing that. Just look at Novaks new motors. Just a marked up Tenshock. Theres always an exception.
I don't think things are better because they cost more, maybe it seems that way. I am willing to try anything and if it works without issue I will continue to use them.
To keep this on topic, do you guys sand the diff cases? I read over on the ET48 thread that they are having a problem with the diffs leaking and they sand the edge on the case to flatten it out. I've built three Tekno and a set of spare diffs without touching them at all and they don't leak a drop.
I don't think things are better because they cost more, maybe it seems that way. I am willing to try anything and if it works without issue I will continue to use them.
To keep this on topic, do you guys sand the diff cases? I read over on the ET48 thread that they are having a problem with the diffs leaking and they sand the edge on the case to flatten it out. I've built three Tekno and a set of spare diffs without touching them at all and they don't leak a drop.
06-17-2015, 09:50 AM
#1205
I have never sanded my diffs either, but i do apply a very light coat of lucas oil red and tacky grease to the diff case interface w/ the gasket. VERY light. I have been doing this w/ my sct410 and my eb48 since purchase and no leaks ever. Tip came from a nitro racer w/ tons more experiance than I will ever have.
06-17-2015, 11:10 AM
#1207
Thats what I figured. Not sure whats going on over there.
06-17-2015, 11:48 AM
#1208
For some reason, when freshly built or rebuilt, the center Diff will splatter oil out for the first 1-2 runs. Then it will stop. Mine & my buddy's both did this. You'll see small amounts of oil (think its leaking) then it will stop. Not sure why... But I wouldn't be too alarmed. Wait it out....
If its STILL leaking after 2-3 runs. OR if it's leaking A LOT of fluid then you may have an issue. Make sure you put green slime on the gasket. Make sure you seat the gasket all the way down with no creases. And make sure the holes are lined up. You can use oil, slime, grease, or K&N filter seal grease.
Sanding the face may help a bit if it's necessary. There may be slight defects in the plastic that need smoothed out.
If its STILL leaking after 2-3 runs. OR if it's leaking A LOT of fluid then you may have an issue. Make sure you put green slime on the gasket. Make sure you seat the gasket all the way down with no creases. And make sure the holes are lined up. You can use oil, slime, grease, or K&N filter seal grease.
Sanding the face may help a bit if it's necessary. There may be slight defects in the plastic that need smoothed out.
06-17-2015, 11:58 AM
#1209
I have been using the Hobbywing SCTpro w/ the Hobbywing 4000kv motor since day one in my first gen sct410 w/ absolutley no issues what so ever. I also use Savox servos as well. I have direct wired my servo positive lead to the esc positive lead. I have been running this same setup for at least 3 years now w/ great success. This setup is in about 50 percent of the 4x4 sct in my area. My truck is just as competetive as others w/ electronic packages that cost 2 to 3 times more. No reason what so ever to bag on these products.
How's this: "Most people" (where I race) run the HobbWing SCT Pro Combo. And most people I have spoken to all have good things to say about it, and recommend it to others. You don't need a $350 ESC to win races. When it comes to high dollar electronics, many people make the mistake of thinking expensive = BEST. We're racing toy cars. If it's budget friendly, and it works great... Go for it. Most of the time when stuff burns up its from user error or abuse.
06-17-2015, 01:01 PM
#1210
^^Exactly.
How's this: "Most people" (where I race) run the HobbWing SCT Pro Combo. And most people I have spoken to all have good things to say about it, and recommend it to others. You don't need a $350 ESC to win races. When it comes to high dollar electronics, many people make the mistake of thinking expensive = BEST. We're racing toy cars. If it's budget friendly, and it works great... Go for it. Most of the time when stuff burns up its from user error or abuse.
How's this: "Most people" (where I race) run the HobbWing SCT Pro Combo. And most people I have spoken to all have good things to say about it, and recommend it to others. You don't need a $350 ESC to win races. When it comes to high dollar electronics, many people make the mistake of thinking expensive = BEST. We're racing toy cars. If it's budget friendly, and it works great... Go for it. Most of the time when stuff burns up its from user error or abuse.
Most expensive doesn't alway mean the best but the best is often the most expensive. (or close to it and purely subjective)
I've also been using the same Tekin 411P for the past 24 years, granted a lot less these days, with zero issues. I think the HW guys were stains in their fathers underwear back then.
06-17-2015, 06:59 PM
#1211
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
That is true and I'm not disputing that. Just look at Novaks new motors. Just a marked up Tenshock. Theres always an exception.
I don't think things are better because they cost more, maybe it seems that way. I am willing to try anything and if it works without issue I will continue to use them.
To keep this on topic, do you guys sand the diff cases? I read over on the ET48 thread that they are having a problem with the diffs leaking and they sand the edge on the case to flatten it out. I've built three Tekno and a set of spare diffs without touching them at all and they don't leak a drop.
I don't think things are better because they cost more, maybe it seems that way. I am willing to try anything and if it works without issue I will continue to use them.
To keep this on topic, do you guys sand the diff cases? I read over on the ET48 thread that they are having a problem with the diffs leaking and they sand the edge on the case to flatten it out. I've built three Tekno and a set of spare diffs without touching them at all and they don't leak a drop.
06-17-2015, 09:46 PM
#1212
Tech Rookie
What spring choice should be used for indoor high bite wet clay track? Thinking of pink springs in the front and pink spring in the back. Post any good setup sheets would help.
06-18-2015, 03:08 AM
#1213
I have pink on the front and stock blacks on the back right now, I may try pinks in back as well. The kit setup was pretty good for me on the surface you are running on and think it would be even better If I could get 25/24MM ride height in front but I'm still at like 28+MM in front with no preload.
06-18-2015, 06:06 AM
#1214
Tech Rookie
Can u change your user name had slash 5 years ago first time back on here in 5 years
06-18-2015, 10:19 AM
#1215
Yeah Pink Pink might be good. I ran Black fronts Pink Rears last weekend off-road, low bite outdoor. It's definitely hard to get 24mm with the green fronts. If the green Springs were 65mm, instead of 70 it would be nice. With the 70mm Green 28 is about the norm (with batt).
Pink front, Green Rears is also worth a try.
So far I like Pink/Pink best with 25/35 Losi oil.
Next rebuilt I'm going to 5/5/2 in the Diffs, and see how that changes things.
Is it possible to Reuse Diff gaskets?? Or must you replace them with each rebuild?
Pink front, Green Rears is also worth a try.
So far I like Pink/Pink best with 25/35 Losi oil.
Next rebuilt I'm going to 5/5/2 in the Diffs, and see how that changes things.
Is it possible to Reuse Diff gaskets?? Or must you replace them with each rebuild?