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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 06-12-2015, 10:19 PM   #1141
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Originally Posted by ktacket1 View Post
True that Jimmy Johnson.
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Old 06-13-2015, 01:46 AM   #1142
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Originally Posted by Horby32 View Post
Finished building my kit and have put 4 packs through it so far. The only issue I'm having is the loose rear end. It seems to be very nervous in the high speed sections. I'm running on medium/large outdoor tracks.

Everything is stock except for the shock oil (25r 35f) vented

Where should I start on tuning?
I was thinking of starting with the easiest to change
1) camber links
2)adjusting my toe and camber
3) moving rear Hubs
4) thinking about going to pink springs all around

This will be my first attempt at tuning so any input would be appreciated



Thanks guys
As most people on here have mentioned to calm down the rear end i stood the shocks up 1 hole on the rear tower, mover the rear hubs all the way forward, and went 30w oil in the rear and now this thing is so planted even on a very loose and loamy track, try these few changes and i think you will be pleasantly surprised at the transformation.
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Old 06-13-2015, 06:01 PM   #1143
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I always did run short wheelbase on my Tekno vehicles.
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Old 06-13-2015, 08:47 PM   #1144
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Ran mine tonight with kit setup except changed out front springs to pink, still is couple MM higher in front than I want but truck was good.....not great but good. IMO the kit setup is REALLY close on medium sized/high bite indoor stuff, don't think its going to take to much to get it right where I want it. First race with this truck and finished 4th with 10 in the class, some pretty fast guys there too so all in all happy with the truck.
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Old 06-14-2015, 10:13 AM   #1145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Horby32 View Post
Finished building my kit and have put 4 packs through it so far. The only issue I'm having is the loose rear end. It seems to be very nervous in the high speed sections. I'm running on medium/large outdoor tracks.

Everything is stock except for the shock oil (25r 35f) vented

Where should I start on tuning?
I was thinking of starting with the easiest to change
1) camber links
2)adjusting my toe and camber
3) moving rear Hubs
4) thinking about going to pink springs all around

This will be my first attempt at tuning so any input would be appreciated

Thanks guys
Easiest thing to change is taking out the rear and center brace. Worked wonders on the V1 truck.
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Old 06-14-2015, 07:23 PM   #1146
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I built a 2nd one today. Took 8-9 hours, by hand, no power tools. Went well, no missing parts. Everything was spot on again. He went with the HobbyWing SCT Pro 4000kv combo... It's quite a nice set up. Works best paired with an 18t pinion I'm told. Ride height was again way off. 33mm with no battery. 28-29 with a battery.

Honestly, I wouldn't even bother using the oil that comes with the shocks... It's just way too thin. The back shocks will be almost unusable set up by the book. It's sooo insanely soft, I don't get it. Definitely not set up for outdoors. Not at all.

Great kit, but weird suspension set up.
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Old 06-14-2015, 07:24 PM   #1147
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Originally Posted by Hoese37 View Post
Easiest thing to change is taking out the rear and center brace. Worked wonders on the V1 truck.
I took out my rear brace, not sure I noticed anything. What exactly is this supposed to do?
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Old 06-14-2015, 08:24 PM   #1148
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Originally Posted by Barillms View Post
I took out my rear brace, not sure I noticed anything. What exactly is this supposed to do?
Give more flex in the chassis, should increase rear grip. As far as the kit setup goes......I can see where it may be wrong for big outdoor stuff but its pretty darn close on indoor high bite. I used the kit oils and stock setup in rear and was surprised how well it worked. I went with pink springs up front which was better for me but I'm still higher in front than I want and am still confused why some can get low up front and others cant, and yes my stuff is very free and working right and been ran plenty to "settle" the springs and I have squeezed the shit out of them before installing My EB48sl with kit setup still is sitting to high front and rear as well
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Old 06-14-2015, 08:44 PM   #1149
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looking for a small pin tire to use on my sct410.3. holeshots work during the day, the outdoor track gets tacky, loamy after sunset.
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Old 06-14-2015, 08:53 PM   #1150
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Originally Posted by Brandon Powell View Post
looking for a small pin tire to use on my sct410.3. holeshots work during the day, the outdoor track gets tacky, loamy after sunset.
Gridirons I heard work well.
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Old 06-15-2015, 01:31 AM   #1151
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Originally Posted by Brandon Powell View Post
looking for a small pin tire to use on my sct410.3. holeshots work during the day, the outdoor track gets tacky, loamy after sunset.
City Blocks or Goosebumps.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Barillms View Post
I built a 2nd one today. Took 8-9 hours, by hand, no power tools. Went well, no missing parts. Everything was spot on again. He went with the HobbyWing SCT Pro 4000kv combo... It's quite a nice set up. Works best paired with an 18t pinion I'm told. Ride height was again way off. 33mm with no battery. 28-29 with a battery.

Honestly, I wouldn't even bother using the oil that comes with the shocks... It's just way too thin. The back shocks will be almost unusable set up by the book. It's sooo insanely soft, I don't get it. Definitely not set up for outdoors. Not at all.

Great kit, but weird suspension set up.
Not sure how often you need to be reminded that the kit setup was made for smaller high grip indoor tracks. This would explain the "weird shock setup".
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Old 06-15-2015, 05:51 AM   #1152
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Gridirons I heard work well.
The caliber sc2.0
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Old 06-15-2015, 08:39 AM   #1153
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Originally Posted by Dan.J View Post
Give more flex in the chassis, should increase rear grip. As far as the kit setup goes......I can see where it may be wrong for big outdoor stuff but its pretty darn close on indoor high bite. I used the kit oils and stock setup in rear and was surprised how well it worked. I went with pink springs up front which was better for me but I'm still higher in front than I want and am still confused why some can get low up front and others cant, and yes my stuff is very free and working right and been ran plenty to "settle" the springs and I have squeezed the shit out of them before installing My EB48sl with kit setup still is sitting to high front and rear as well
It is weird that some are still sitting high. I prob ran mine 4 weekends before I remembered to recheck the ride height and this time I was able to get the ride height. Initially thought I wasn't then remembered I didn't have the battery installed.

Finally got pinks on it all around then motor blew out on me 1st heat this weekend. Oh well, it lasted 2.5 years so no complaints.
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Old 06-15-2015, 08:57 AM   #1154
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Is there a driver setup out now that is truly for big 1/8 tracks that is loose in conditions and rough?
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Old 06-15-2015, 10:48 AM   #1155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
I've been looking at that motor for a while. However, I have a Tekin esc. I really want the data logging, especially the temps, but it seems like when i mix brands, the motor log data may not be correct. Do you know if the RX8 Gen2 accurately displays this motor's data?

Also, I'm wondering what kind of run times it will get? I have a tekin 4300 pro4 hd with 18 tooth pinion, 6000mah smc battery and I can finish a 10min main with no problems. Believe I had about 3.6V per cell left. Please let me know if you have any info on that.

Thanks.
Used the motor with the Tekin Rx8v2 last weekend. Pinion 14, about 28C, sunny, outside, short, high grip carpet track, runtime: 6min, motor is getting hotter than the other ones, about 50C-60C. Used about 2500mah (fast drivers took about 4000mah.
I do not knew about the logging function of the controller, bougt it from a friend. Have to do some research for that.

This was the first time of a full race weekend with the car. Reduced the back toe-in for better landing after high jumps. (Car overcorrected direktion on landings wich were not perfectly straigt.)
Jumps are still a bit difficult, but with absolutly no breaking or reducing power while flying, it was ok.
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