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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 06-11-2015, 08:32 PM   #1126
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Kind of a weird question for you guys. I currently have a slash 4x4 used for bashing and general fun. How do you think this kit would do with a 3s and a 2400 4 pole castle motor. If my slash takes it I would think this would. I just sold my eb48.2 and am looking into a more durable short coarse truck for some high power playing.
By the way the 48.2 was a beast.
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Old 06-11-2015, 09:12 PM   #1127
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Kind of a weird question for you guys. I currently have a slash 4x4 used for bashing and general fun. How do you think this kit would do with a 3s and a 2400 4 pole castle motor. If my slash takes it I would think this would. I just sold my eb48.2 and am looking into a more durable short coarse truck for some high power playing.
By the way the 48.2 was a beast.
i don't see why it would be an issue. you'd need to get the regular motor mount as opposed to the lcg mount that comes with the .3 kit and might want to get the aluminum center diff mount and upgrade the a,b,c&d blocks if you start to break them. consider your spring choices too when it comes to the extra battery and motor weight.

i originally build my v1 with the intent to bash it, but it just didn't quite work out that way.
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Old 06-11-2015, 09:16 PM   #1128
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i don't see why it would be an issue. you'd need to get the regular motor mount as opposed to the lcg mount that comes with the .3 kit and might want to get the aluminum center diff mount and upgrade the a,b,c&d blocks if you start to break them. consider your spring choices too when it comes to the extra battery and motor weight.

i originally build my v1 with the intent to bash it, but it just didn't quite work out that way.
The lcg mount won't work? It's a 36mm can motor just longer.
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Old 06-11-2015, 09:18 PM   #1129
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The lcg mount won't work? It's a 36mm can motor just longer.
ah, sorry, didn't realize it was a 36mm motor, it should be fine then
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Old 06-12-2015, 03:20 AM   #1130
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I have the 4 pole 3800 kv castle y motor running the 14 tooth i was thinking about getting the 3 pack Robinson racing pack 15 16 17 ,do u think that would b a good match up for a hobbyist, thanks
I do prefer pinions with "extended boss" (Team Durango SC 10) because of the better centering of the pinion on the motor΄s shaft.
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Old 06-12-2015, 03:32 AM   #1131
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I'll be there, ride height is still not sorted but the truck is working well so far. We will see if I am able to beat Wiita tonight.
What tires are working the best so far?
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Old 06-12-2015, 03:33 AM   #1132
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Thumbs up The beast Dynamic 10l...

Recently got my LRP Dynamic 10l 4600. I opened it up to inspect the used one. It is build very clean and got carbon fibre around the rotor. The gaps between the slots are filled with green cement. Windigs are parrallel and as short as possible. (Did you ever see a Tekin winding? Horrible!)

Installed it with a 14 teeth pinion an tested in the backyard.

I only could compare it to:
Reedy 550 3500 4 pole
LRP x12l 4700 2 pole
Tenshock 412 4600 4 pole

and it is has much more "punch". Would be very difficult to use on slippery, dusty tracks. Temperature was no problem because of the small pinion.
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Old 06-12-2015, 04:54 AM   #1133
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Originally Posted by FAO View Post
Recently got my LRP Dynamic 10l 4600. I opened it up to inspect the used one. It is build very clean and got carbon fibre around the rotor. The gaps between the slots are filled with green cement. Windigs are parrallel and as short as possible. (Did you ever see a Tekin winding? Horrible!)

Installed it with a 14 teeth pinion an tested in the backyard.

I only could compare it to:
Reedy 550 3500 4 pole
LRP x12l 4700 2 pole
Tenshock 412 4600 4 pole

and it is has much more "punch". Would be very difficult to use on slippery, dusty tracks. Temperature was no problem because of the small pinion.
I've been looking at that motor for a while. However, I have a Tekin esc. I really want the data logging, especially the temps, but it seems like when i mix brands, the motor log data may not be correct. Do you know if the RX8 Gen2 accurately displays this motor's data?

Also, I'm wondering what kind of run times it will get? I have a tekin 4300 pro4 hd with 18 tooth pinion, 6000mah smc battery and I can finish a 10min main with no problems. Believe I had about 3.6V per cell left. Please let me know if you have any info on that.

Thanks.
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Old 06-12-2015, 07:26 AM   #1134
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Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
I've been looking at that motor for a while. However, I have a Tekin esc. I really want the data logging, especially the temps, but it seems like when i mix brands, the motor log data may not be correct. Do you know if the RX8 Gen2 accurately displays this motor's data?

Also, I'm wondering what kind of run times it will get? I have a tekin 4300 pro4 hd with 18 tooth pinion, 6000mah smc battery and I can finish a 10min main with no problems. Believe I had about 3.6V per cell left. Please let me know if you have any info on that.

Thanks.
I recall Randy Pike answering this question somewhere but I cannot find it now. I think he said data logging will work with any sensored motor. You may want to ask in the RX8 Gen2 thread just to be sure.
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Old 06-12-2015, 08:58 AM   #1135
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What tires are working the best so far?
Enduros are working best when the track is loamy and damp. As far as what will work best when the track is dry and starts to take a groove - that's anyones guess. I did run some blockaids last night before the track was watered and they were pretty good.
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Old 06-12-2015, 10:20 AM   #1136
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Finished building my kit and have put 4 packs through it so far. The only issue I'm having is the loose rear end. It seems to be very nervous in the high speed sections. I'm running on medium/large outdoor tracks.

Everything is stock except for the shock oil (25r 35f) vented

Where should I start on tuning?
I was thinking of starting with the easiest to change
1) camber links
2)adjusting my toe and camber
3) moving rear Hubs
4) thinking about going to pink springs all around

This will be my first attempt at tuning so any input would be appreciated

Thanks guys
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Old 06-12-2015, 10:58 AM   #1137
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Originally Posted by Horby32 View Post
Finished building my kit and have put 4 packs through it so far. The only issue I'm having is the loose rear end. It seems to be very nervous in the high speed sections. I'm running on medium/large outdoor tracks.

Everything is stock except for the shock oil (25r 35f) vented

Where should I start on tuning?
I was thinking of starting with the easiest to change
1) camber links
2)adjusting my toe and camber
3) moving rear Hubs
4) thinking about going to pink springs all around

This will be my first attempt at tuning so any input would be appreciated

Thanks guys
Tires are 80% of your tuning !
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Old 06-12-2015, 12:15 PM   #1138
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Tires are 80% of your tuning !
Isn't that the truff!
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Old 06-12-2015, 03:16 PM   #1139
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Do a couple degrees toe out. A few degrees camber also. Make sure all your links are mounted where the book tells you. Also run your shocks where the book recommends.

First thing I did was change springs. I run Pink/Pink or even Black front/Pink Rear sometimes if I need more steering. Run about 25mm ride height.

I run 25 weight oil in the rear and 35 up front. A lot of guys are changing to different pistons but you don't have to.

Adjusting the D Block and adding more Rear toe will help plant the ass end. Also, make sure your running the proper tires for your track. My truck is very stable and the back is planted. But my truck likes to nosedive, and its a bit annoying.
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Old 06-12-2015, 05:52 PM   #1140
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Tires are 80% of your tuning !
True that Jimmy Johnson.
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