Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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#1021
Tech Master
iTrader: (36)
Just an FYI for those with a loose rear end:
I bashed my .3 for the first time on Saturday because I was unable to get out and race this weekend.
During the first session the rear end was still loose (as I had experienced during the last two race days) If I would be on throttle while turning it would just about do donuts if I didn't let off.
The setup at this time was 10/10/7, rear toe/anti-squat setting was two dots to the outer/upper location (4 deg toe, close to flat arms) rear shocks laid down.
I went back to my place, took it apart, and changed the following:
- 10/7/7
- rear pills to one dot all the way down, all the way out (4 deg toe, regular anti squat)
- rear shocks - inner arm hole/2nd to top hole on tower
Took it back out and it felt planted! it pulled through the turns and the rear was more planted off power with more anti-squat.
Hope this helps others with the same problem.
I bashed my .3 for the first time on Saturday because I was unable to get out and race this weekend.
During the first session the rear end was still loose (as I had experienced during the last two race days) If I would be on throttle while turning it would just about do donuts if I didn't let off.
The setup at this time was 10/10/7, rear toe/anti-squat setting was two dots to the outer/upper location (4 deg toe, close to flat arms) rear shocks laid down.
I went back to my place, took it apart, and changed the following:
- 10/7/7
- rear pills to one dot all the way down, all the way out (4 deg toe, regular anti squat)
- rear shocks - inner arm hole/2nd to top hole on tower
Took it back out and it felt planted! it pulled through the turns and the rear was more planted off power with more anti-squat.
Hope this helps others with the same problem.
#1022
Tech Adept
iTrader: (4)
Standing up the shocks and going in on the arm might the greatest contributor to the increased rear traction. Also, double dot up and out on the D block is 3.5 degrees of toe and 2.5 degrees of antisquat if you're running the center dot in the C block. By going up on the D block to decrease antisquat you're also raising your roll center. A higher rear roll center will have less traction off power into a turn. By going to 1 dot out and down you lowered your roll center a lot, and increased your toe by .5 degrees, both giving you more rear traction off power. Yes, you also went to 4 degrees of antisquat, but I believe your other changes are what is giving you the feeling you were searching for.
One thing I like about this setup is that you probably have plenty of on power traction as well with that antisquat. I plan on going down on my D block to test this out.
One thing I like about this setup is that you probably have plenty of on power traction as well with that antisquat. I plan on going down on my D block to test this out.
Last edited by louie8269; 06-01-2015 at 05:15 PM.
#1023
Tech Adept
iTrader: (4)
I can do that but I'm not a sponsored driver and this new setup isn't even really tested yet. Not on a race day anyways. I wouldn't really be opposed to it but I don't want to steer anyone in the wrong direction and have them unhappy with their truck. If I drive it in a race and feel that it's a winning setup and think it's awesome, I'll fill out the sheet and post it.
#1024
Do they make any Tekno specific wheels? If not what's a good choice. From what I understand anything losi scte offset work.
#1026
I'm running the solid SC10 4x4 +3mm DE Racing Borrego wheels. I had them already, so I put them on. The do make it a little wider but the tires will still fit inside the body. Although its most likely too wide to fall under ROAR or other rules. The regular SC10 4x4 or Losi SCTE wheels are the ones you want.
One other thing... The wheel holes are too small to fit over the Tekno 6mm axle. You will have to ream them out about 1/2 a millimeter to get them to slide on & off without struggle.
Also, SC10 4x4 aluminum hexs will work fine on the Tekno.
One other thing... The wheel holes are too small to fit over the Tekno 6mm axle. You will have to ream them out about 1/2 a millimeter to get them to slide on & off without struggle.
Also, SC10 4x4 aluminum hexs will work fine on the Tekno.
#1027
Tech Adept
[QUOTE=Barillms;14037402]I'm running the solid SC10 4x4 +3mm DE Racing Borrego wheels. I had them already, so I put them on. The do make it a little wider but the tires will still fit inside the body. Although its most likely too wide to fall under ROAR or other rules. The regular SC10 4x4 or Losi SCTE wheels are the ones you want.
Hopefully Mathew will chime in here but I do believe that sc10 4x4 wheels are not the same offset as the losi wheels. It has been said that the losi specific wheels are more like a 1.5 offset where the sc10 4x4 wheels are a true 0 offset. I think the miss information on this issue is why some have wheel rubbing issues while others do not with the same brand wheels. Sorry if this is not correct, someone please let us know, but I'm 99% sure.
Hopefully Mathew will chime in here but I do believe that sc10 4x4 wheels are not the same offset as the losi wheels. It has been said that the losi specific wheels are more like a 1.5 offset where the sc10 4x4 wheels are a true 0 offset. I think the miss information on this issue is why some have wheel rubbing issues while others do not with the same brand wheels. Sorry if this is not correct, someone please let us know, but I'm 99% sure.
#1029
Tech Adept
The sc10 4x4 wheels are available in "0" offset or the optional +3, I just tried my stock sc10 4x4 wheels on my .3 and they hang up but the DE wheels I just bought that are labeled for losi and tekno fit just right
#1031
Tech Master
Justin or Mathew,
I made some changes to my EB last week, and she definitely felt more planted than my truck did. (and she was much better than my last visit) What pill position on the .3 do I use to achieve the old LRC rear block? I assume down and in the middle?
Currently running stock setup besides 7/10/5 on the EB, by Sunday I anticipate the track to be rutted and blown out. Any suggestion on changes I should make as the weekend progresses? It should go from nice and smooth on Friday, to rutted, and blown out on Sunday. I'm thinking about rebuilding the shocks with 6x1.5's, and 450/350 for the weekend. maybe play with springs onsite.
Also, looking for suggestions on the .3. She's box stock, accept for rear shocks now have 6x1.5's, 350cst, & green springs. I'm thinking of putting the 6x1.5's and 450cst in the front, and play with springs onsite. Ok Plan?
I'm assuming as the weekend goes on, I should decrease rear camber? I usually run -2°. Someone suggested for me to run -3° when it gets rutted. Correct direction?
I made some changes to my EB last week, and she definitely felt more planted than my truck did. (and she was much better than my last visit) What pill position on the .3 do I use to achieve the old LRC rear block? I assume down and in the middle?
Currently running stock setup besides 7/10/5 on the EB, by Sunday I anticipate the track to be rutted and blown out. Any suggestion on changes I should make as the weekend progresses? It should go from nice and smooth on Friday, to rutted, and blown out on Sunday. I'm thinking about rebuilding the shocks with 6x1.5's, and 450/350 for the weekend. maybe play with springs onsite.
Also, looking for suggestions on the .3. She's box stock, accept for rear shocks now have 6x1.5's, 350cst, & green springs. I'm thinking of putting the 6x1.5's and 450cst in the front, and play with springs onsite. Ok Plan?
I'm assuming as the weekend goes on, I should decrease rear camber? I usually run -2°. Someone suggested for me to run -3° when it gets rutted. Correct direction?
#1032
As far as suspension goes, after racing last weekend here's my game plan.
I've ordered new springs. I have coming Front Black springs (2 steps softer, Pinks are 1 softer). And for the rear Green (2 steps stiffer). I will also be getting Pink front & rear to have to experiment with.
I will be trying some 1.3x8 and 1.2x8 pistons, and running Team AE shock oil, experimenting with 27.5, 30, 32.5, 35 weights. I am running emulsion set up.
I also made some air guards and ordered the DE chassis skid, and Tekno rear mud guards for the A Arms. I'll update after the race weekend and see how it performs.
I've ordered new springs. I have coming Front Black springs (2 steps softer, Pinks are 1 softer). And for the rear Green (2 steps stiffer). I will also be getting Pink front & rear to have to experiment with.
I will be trying some 1.3x8 and 1.2x8 pistons, and running Team AE shock oil, experimenting with 27.5, 30, 32.5, 35 weights. I am running emulsion set up.
I also made some air guards and ordered the DE chassis skid, and Tekno rear mud guards for the A Arms. I'll update after the race weekend and see how it performs.
#1033
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
As far as suspension goes, after racing last weekend here's my game plan.
I've ordered new springs. I have coming Front Black springs (2 steps softer, Pinks are 1 softer). And for the rear Green (2 steps stiffer). I will also be getting Pink front & rear to have to experiment with.
I will be trying some 1.3x8 and 1.2x8 pistons, and running Team AE shock oil, experimenting with 27.5, 30, 32.5, 35 weights. I am running emulsion set up.
I also made some air guards and ordered the DE chassis skid, and Tekno rear mud guards for the A Arms. I'll update after the race weekend and see how it performs.
I've ordered new springs. I have coming Front Black springs (2 steps softer, Pinks are 1 softer). And for the rear Green (2 steps stiffer). I will also be getting Pink front & rear to have to experiment with.
I will be trying some 1.3x8 and 1.2x8 pistons, and running Team AE shock oil, experimenting with 27.5, 30, 32.5, 35 weights. I am running emulsion set up.
I also made some air guards and ordered the DE chassis skid, and Tekno rear mud guards for the A Arms. I'll update after the race weekend and see how it performs.
Pink Springs F/R, 32.5/27.5 with 6hole 1.5 pistons.
Hoping the truck is quite a bit better then the stock setup!
#1035
Tech Master