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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 06-01-2015, 01:40 PM   #1021
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Originally Posted by louie8269 View Post
Just an FYI for those with a loose rear end:

I bashed my .3 for the first time on Saturday because I was unable to get out and race this weekend.

During the first session the rear end was still loose (as I had experienced during the last two race days) If I would be on throttle while turning it would just about do donuts if I didn't let off.

The setup at this time was 10/10/7, rear toe/anti-squat setting was two dots to the outer/upper location (4 deg toe, close to flat arms) rear shocks laid down.

I went back to my place, took it apart, and changed the following:
- 10/7/7
- rear pills to one dot all the way down, all the way out (4 deg toe, regular anti squat)
- rear shocks - inner arm hole/2nd to top hole on tower

Took it back out and it felt planted! it pulled through the turns and the rear was more planted off power with more anti-squat.

Hope this helps others with the same problem.
Could fill up the form and post your set up thanks.
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Old 06-01-2015, 04:11 PM   #1022
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
Standing up the shocks and going in on the arm might the greatest contributor to the increased rear traction. Also, double dot up and out on the D block is 3.5 degrees of toe and 2.5 degrees of antisquat if you're running the center dot in the C block. By going up on the D block to decrease antisquat you're also raising your roll center. A higher rear roll center will have less traction off power into a turn. By going to 1 dot out and down you lowered your roll center a lot, and increased your toe by .5 degrees, both giving you more rear traction off power. Yes, you also went to 4 degrees of antisquat, but I believe your other changes are what is giving you the feeling you were searching for.
One thing I like about this setup is that you probably have plenty of on power traction as well with that antisquat. I plan on going down on my D block to test this out.
Thanks for the input! I'm no where near a setup guru. A lot of what I've learned is through trial and error because everyone has an opinion and the 'right' way to adjust this and that. I've even found some trusted published articles to be contradicting as to how various settings affect handling. FYI, the dots on the previous setup were all the way out and vertical like this : not .. Would that still have been 4deg? I'll keep the tower thing in mind for other vehicles though. Thanks! Can't wait to race this thing again! Considering I came in 5th in the A against some talented drivers in the last race while dealing with that loose rear I'm pumped to see what I can do with it (hopefully) more planted.

Last edited by louie8269; 06-01-2015 at 05:15 PM.
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Old 06-01-2015, 04:14 PM   #1023
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Could fill up the form and post your set up thanks.
I can do that but I'm not a sponsored driver and this new setup isn't even really tested yet. Not on a race day anyways. I wouldn't really be opposed to it but I don't want to steer anyone in the wrong direction and have them unhappy with their truck. If I drive it in a race and feel that it's a winning setup and think it's awesome, I'll fill out the sheet and post it.
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Old 06-02-2015, 08:09 AM   #1024
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Do they make any Tekno specific wheels? If not what's a good choice. From what I understand anything losi scte offset work.
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Old 06-02-2015, 10:08 AM   #1025
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Anything that is zero offset will work. I'm partial to either the DE Borrego's or JConcepts Hazards.
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Old 06-02-2015, 05:14 PM   #1026
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I'm running the solid SC10 4x4 +3mm DE Racing Borrego wheels. I had them already, so I put them on. The do make it a little wider but the tires will still fit inside the body. Although its most likely too wide to fall under ROAR or other rules. The regular SC10 4x4 or Losi SCTE wheels are the ones you want.

One other thing... The wheel holes are too small to fit over the Tekno 6mm axle. You will have to ream them out about 1/2 a millimeter to get them to slide on & off without struggle.

Also, SC10 4x4 aluminum hexs will work fine on the Tekno.
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Old 06-02-2015, 06:04 PM   #1027
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[QUOTE=Barillms;14037402]I'm running the solid SC10 4x4 +3mm DE Racing Borrego wheels. I had them already, so I put them on. The do make it a little wider but the tires will still fit inside the body. Although its most likely too wide to fall under ROAR or other rules. The regular SC10 4x4 or Losi SCTE wheels are the ones you want.

Hopefully Mathew will chime in here but I do believe that sc10 4x4 wheels are not the same offset as the losi wheels. It has been said that the losi specific wheels are more like a 1.5 offset where the sc10 4x4 wheels are a true 0 offset. I think the miss information on this issue is why some have wheel rubbing issues while others do not with the same brand wheels. Sorry if this is not correct, someone please let us know, but I'm 99% sure.
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Old 06-02-2015, 07:08 PM   #1028
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In our industry, 0 offset means the wheel is flush to the front mounting bead. In this respect, the SCTE offset is 0, the SC10 is +3.
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Old 06-02-2015, 09:14 PM   #1029
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In our industry, 0 offset means the wheel is flush to the front mounting bead. In this respect, the SCTE offset is 0, the SC10 is +3.
The sc10 4x4 wheels are available in "0" offset or the optional +3, I just tried my stock sc10 4x4 wheels on my .3 and they hang up but the DE wheels I just bought that are labeled for losi and tekno fit just right
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Old 06-02-2015, 09:17 PM   #1030
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You also need to consider the structure of the wheel also. the webbing inside may be deeper on one style compared to another when both are 0 offset.
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Old 06-03-2015, 06:59 AM   #1031
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Justin or Mathew,
I made some changes to my EB last week, and she definitely felt more planted than my truck did. (and she was much better than my last visit) What pill position on the .3 do I use to achieve the old LRC rear block? I assume down and in the middle?

Currently running stock setup besides 7/10/5 on the EB, by Sunday I anticipate the track to be rutted and blown out. Any suggestion on changes I should make as the weekend progresses? It should go from nice and smooth on Friday, to rutted, and blown out on Sunday. I'm thinking about rebuilding the shocks with 6x1.5's, and 450/350 for the weekend. maybe play with springs onsite.

Also, looking for suggestions on the .3. She's box stock, accept for rear shocks now have 6x1.5's, 350cst, & green springs. I'm thinking of putting the 6x1.5's and 450cst in the front, and play with springs onsite. Ok Plan?

I'm assuming as the weekend goes on, I should decrease rear camber? I usually run -2. Someone suggested for me to run -3 when it gets rutted. Correct direction?
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Old 06-03-2015, 01:14 PM   #1032
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As far as suspension goes, after racing last weekend here's my game plan.
I've ordered new springs. I have coming Front Black springs (2 steps softer, Pinks are 1 softer). And for the rear Green (2 steps stiffer). I will also be getting Pink front & rear to have to experiment with.

I will be trying some 1.3x8 and 1.2x8 pistons, and running Team AE shock oil, experimenting with 27.5, 30, 32.5, 35 weights. I am running emulsion set up.

I also made some air guards and ordered the DE chassis skid, and Tekno rear mud guards for the A Arms. I'll update after the race weekend and see how it performs.
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Old 06-03-2015, 01:16 PM   #1033
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barillms View Post
As far as suspension goes, after racing last weekend here's my game plan.
I've ordered new springs. I have coming Front Black springs (2 steps softer, Pinks are 1 softer). And for the rear Green (2 steps stiffer). I will also be getting Pink front & rear to have to experiment with.

I will be trying some 1.3x8 and 1.2x8 pistons, and running Team AE shock oil, experimenting with 27.5, 30, 32.5, 35 weights. I am running emulsion set up.

I also made some air guards and ordered the DE chassis skid, and Tekno rear mud guards for the A Arms. I'll update after the race weekend and see how it performs.
I'm doing something similar for the second outing.

Pink Springs F/R, 32.5/27.5 with 6hole 1.5 pistons.

Hoping the truck is quite a bit better then the stock setup!
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Old 06-03-2015, 04:49 PM   #1034
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Just took the .3 out for first time it likes to nose dive off the jumps and as soon as I get off power the rear spins around any help or info to fix it would be great
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Old 06-03-2015, 04:50 PM   #1035
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Just took the .3 out for first time it likes to nose dive off the jumps and as soon as I get off power the rear spins around any help or info to fix it would be great
Try reading the 3 posts above yours for the jumping...
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