219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
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05-31-2015, 04:30 AM
#1006
Well went to track last night an ran the truck ,ended up busting the front bumper due to landing on my nose half the night other than that the truck held up nice but it seems very heavy but it was fun ,
05-31-2015, 05:42 AM
#1007
What type of track you running on? By heavy you mean it feels nose heavy? Was it one certain jump that was messing with you or all of them? All I have left to do is solder up both my 410.3 and EB48sl and I will get to put some laps on mine, Hoping the switch to Tekno works out for me. The builds on both went smooth and the quality of the kits seem better than what I was running.
05-31-2015, 07:38 AM
#1008
Diffs 757
Shock oil 35f 30r
Short wheel base
Long rear links
Rear shocks in on tower and in on arm
I changed the rear spring to a rc8/RC8T green (helped achieve proper ride height)
3 deg rear camber
These changes helped dramatically and got me headed in the right direction, managed to have 2nd place only 4 sec off of tq. I also made a few changes in the pits prior to the 2nd heats but could not test them out as we got rained out. I gave my self as much rear toe as possible with the provided pills. I stood up the front shocks. But like I said I didn't have a chance to try it. But for my driving style and track conditions this setup really helped with on power traction.
Last edited by portyansky; 05-31-2015 at 10:59 AM.
05-31-2015, 09:54 AM
#1010
Im going to be picking up two 410.3 kits for my boy and i, both will be used for racing and bashing, im trying to figure out what parts i should keep on hand? From all i read on these there very solid i really hate to buy a bunch of stuff that i will never use. Just wondering what you guys have broke or seen others break, thanks!!
Get the 7200 if you can. A bit longer runtime, and less voltage sag.
05-31-2015, 02:56 PM
#1011
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Im going to be picking up two 410.3 kits for my boy and i, both will be used for racing and bashing, im trying to figure out what parts i should keep on hand? From all i read on these there very solid i really hate to buy a bunch of stuff that i will never use. Just wondering what you guys have broke or seen others break, thanks!!
05-31-2015, 03:10 PM
#1012
What really helped on my .3 was going to a 2.4 front sway bar and same stock 2.3 rear bar. That calmed the back end down a lot and gave me a lot more traction. Might of even given it more steering (low and high speed). I made other changes as well, but front sway bar change was the best change on our indoor medium-bite clay. This is the same layout that I had the V1 on as well, so able to compare the 2. With the other changes I have made also, It corners a lot like my b5m when the traction is UP, and feels like a 1/8 buggy as well.
05-31-2015, 06:49 PM
#1013
What type of track you running on? By heavy you mean it feels nose heavy? Was it one certain jump that was messing with you or all of them? All I have left to do is solder up both my 410.3 and EB48sl and I will get to put some laps on mine, Hoping the switch to Tekno works out for me. The builds on both went smooth and the quality of the kits seem better than what I was running.
Heavy meaning i would do jumps on triple an double an it would land on the front skid an thats how it busted , but i have only been on a basher track with a light truck so it handles totally different then pig even if i just was going a bit slow up an then nose down ,but who nos i have nobody to help me or look at my set up to assist so its all trial an trial reading
06-01-2015, 04:42 AM
#1014
Tech Adept
iTrader: (4)
Just an FYI for those with a loose rear end:
I bashed my .3 for the first time on Saturday because I was unable to get out and race this weekend.
During the first session the rear end was still loose (as I had experienced during the last two race days) If I would be on throttle while turning it would just about do donuts if I didn't let off.
The setup at this time was 10/10/7, rear toe/anti-squat setting was two dots to the outer/upper location (4 deg toe, close to flat arms) rear shocks laid down.
I went back to my place, took it apart, and changed the following:
- 10/7/7
- rear pills to one dot all the way down, all the way out (4 deg toe, regular anti squat)
- rear shocks - inner arm hole/2nd to top hole on tower
Took it back out and it felt planted! it pulled through the turns and the rear was more planted off power with more anti-squat.
Hope this helps others with the same problem.
I bashed my .3 for the first time on Saturday because I was unable to get out and race this weekend.
During the first session the rear end was still loose (as I had experienced during the last two race days) If I would be on throttle while turning it would just about do donuts if I didn't let off.
The setup at this time was 10/10/7, rear toe/anti-squat setting was two dots to the outer/upper location (4 deg toe, close to flat arms) rear shocks laid down.
I went back to my place, took it apart, and changed the following:
- 10/7/7
- rear pills to one dot all the way down, all the way out (4 deg toe, regular anti squat)
- rear shocks - inner arm hole/2nd to top hole on tower
Took it back out and it felt planted! it pulled through the turns and the rear was more planted off power with more anti-squat.
Hope this helps others with the same problem.
06-01-2015, 11:16 AM
#1015
Tech Rookie
Any one braking the composite diff pins?
06-01-2015, 11:49 AM
#1016
Yeah I'm in the process of making my.2 to a .3 and I really don't want those towers and I still haven't seen any word on cnc towers yet, so I'll just run my old ones, carbon fiber till then.
06-01-2015, 12:31 PM
#1017
Just an FYI for those with a loose rear end:
I bashed my .3 for the first time on Saturday because I was unable to get out and race this weekend.
During the first session the rear end was still loose (as I had experienced during the last two race days) If I would be on throttle while turning it would just about do donuts if I didn't let off.
The setup at this time was 10/10/7, rear toe/anti-squat setting was two dots to the outer/upper location (4 deg toe, close to flat arms) rear shocks laid down.
I went back to my place, took it apart, and changed the following:
- 10/7/7
- rear pills to one dot all the way down, all the way out (4 deg toe, regular anti squat)
- rear shocks - inner arm hole/2nd to top hole on tower
Took it back out and it felt planted! it pulled through the turns and the rear was more planted off power with more anti-squat.
Hope this helps others with the same problem.
I bashed my .3 for the first time on Saturday because I was unable to get out and race this weekend.
During the first session the rear end was still loose (as I had experienced during the last two race days) If I would be on throttle while turning it would just about do donuts if I didn't let off.
The setup at this time was 10/10/7, rear toe/anti-squat setting was two dots to the outer/upper location (4 deg toe, close to flat arms) rear shocks laid down.
I went back to my place, took it apart, and changed the following:
- 10/7/7
- rear pills to one dot all the way down, all the way out (4 deg toe, regular anti squat)
- rear shocks - inner arm hole/2nd to top hole on tower
Took it back out and it felt planted! it pulled through the turns and the rear was more planted off power with more anti-squat.
Hope this helps others with the same problem.
06-01-2015, 12:52 PM
#1018
Just an FYI for those with a loose rear end:
I bashed my .3 for the first time on Saturday because I was unable to get out and race this weekend.
During the first session the rear end was still loose (as I had experienced during the last two race days) If I would be on throttle while turning it would just about do donuts if I didn't let off.
The setup at this time was 10/10/7, rear toe/anti-squat setting was two dots to the outer/upper location (4 deg toe, close to flat arms) rear shocks laid down.
I went back to my place, took it apart, and changed the following:
- 10/7/7
- rear pills to one dot all the way down, all the way out (4 deg toe, regular anti squat)
- rear shocks - inner arm hole/2nd to top hole on tower
Took it back out and it felt planted! it pulled through the turns and the rear was more planted off power with more anti-squat.
Hope this helps others with the same problem.
I bashed my .3 for the first time on Saturday because I was unable to get out and race this weekend.
During the first session the rear end was still loose (as I had experienced during the last two race days) If I would be on throttle while turning it would just about do donuts if I didn't let off.
The setup at this time was 10/10/7, rear toe/anti-squat setting was two dots to the outer/upper location (4 deg toe, close to flat arms) rear shocks laid down.
I went back to my place, took it apart, and changed the following:
- 10/7/7
- rear pills to one dot all the way down, all the way out (4 deg toe, regular anti squat)
- rear shocks - inner arm hole/2nd to top hole on tower
Took it back out and it felt planted! it pulled through the turns and the rear was more planted off power with more anti-squat.
Hope this helps others with the same problem.
One thing I like about this setup is that you probably have plenty of on power traction as well with that antisquat. I plan on going down on my D block to test this out.
