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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 05-31-2015, 05:30 AM   #1006
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Well went to track last night an ran the truck ,ended up busting the front bumper due to landing on my nose half the night other than that the truck held up nice but it seems very heavy but it was fun ,
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Old 05-31-2015, 06:42 AM   #1007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aswild View Post
Well went to track last night an ran the truck ,ended up busting the front bumper due to landing on my nose half the night other than that the truck held up nice but it seems very heavy but it was fun ,
What type of track you running on? By heavy you mean it feels nose heavy? Was it one certain jump that was messing with you or all of them? All I have left to do is solder up both my 410.3 and EB48sl and I will get to put some laps on mine, Hoping the switch to Tekno works out for me. The builds on both went smooth and the quality of the kits seem better than what I was running.
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Old 05-31-2015, 08:38 AM   #1008
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Originally Posted by Sk8rob View Post
Ran my sct for the first time over the weekend. The rear end was so loose. I would spin out on the straights and any throttle into a turn it would spin out. It's box stock with the vented setup. Rx8/4600kv and 15T. Any ideas?
I know what you are referring to as we run the same type of track. This is what I did to help.
Diffs 757
Shock oil 35f 30r
Short wheel base
Long rear links
Rear shocks in on tower and in on arm
I changed the rear spring to a rc8/RC8T green (helped achieve proper ride height)
3 deg rear camber


These changes helped dramatically and got me headed in the right direction, managed to have 2nd place only 4 sec off of tq. I also made a few changes in the pits prior to the 2nd heats but could not test them out as we got rained out. I gave my self as much rear toe as possible with the provided pills. I stood up the front shocks. But like I said I didn't have a chance to try it. But for my driving style and track conditions this setup really helped with on power traction.
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Last edited by portyansky; 05-31-2015 at 11:59 AM.
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Old 05-31-2015, 10:43 AM   #1009
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VANT 7600s I would consider for batts.
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Old 05-31-2015, 10:54 AM   #1010
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Originally Posted by jmd3000 View Post
Im going to be picking up two 410.3 kits for my boy and i, both will be used for racing and bashing, im trying to figure out what parts i should keep on hand? From all i read on these there very solid i really hate to buy a bunch of stuff that i will never use. Just wondering what you guys have broke or seen others break, thanks!!
Only thing I've broken on the truck is 1 cvd pin. What I have seen break is the front caster block. To be safe tho, I'd look into arms, caster block, front and rear hubs.

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Originally Posted by iibauti View Post
just purchased a tekno sct410.3. any battery suggestions? was looking at the smc 6500 60c. ill be using it for practice and maybe some racing.
Get the 7200 if you can. A bit longer runtime, and less voltage sag.
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Old 05-31-2015, 03:56 PM   #1011
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Originally Posted by jmd3000 View Post
Im going to be picking up two 410.3 kits for my boy and i, both will be used for racing and bashing, im trying to figure out what parts i should keep on hand? From all i read on these there very solid i really hate to buy a bunch of stuff that i will never use. Just wondering what you guys have broke or seen others break, thanks!!
The only thing I've done so far is bent the rear shock towers. Done it once on v1 and replaced with buggy towers. I had a feeling it was going to happen on v3 and it did. Hope they come out with some tougher ones. Maybe the new buggy towers will work.
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Old 05-31-2015, 04:10 PM   #1012
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What really helped on my .3 was going to a 2.4 front sway bar and same stock 2.3 rear bar. That calmed the back end down a lot and gave me a lot more traction. Might of even given it more steering (low and high speed). I made other changes as well, but front sway bar change was the best change on our indoor medium-bite clay. This is the same layout that I had the V1 on as well, so able to compare the 2. With the other changes I have made also, It corners a lot like my b5m when the traction is UP, and feels like a 1/8 buggy as well.
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Old 05-31-2015, 07:49 PM   #1013
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Originally Posted by Dan.J View Post
What type of track you running on? By heavy you mean it feels nose heavy? Was it one certain jump that was messing with you or all of them? All I have left to do is solder up both my 410.3 and EB48sl and I will get to put some laps on mine, Hoping the switch to Tekno works out for me. The builds on both went smooth and the quality of the kits seem better than what I was running.
It is a indoor clay track kinda damp sprayed evry 25 min live in the dessert
Heavy meaning i would do jumps on triple an double an it would land on the front skid an thats how it busted , but i have only been on a basher track with a light truck so it handles totally different then pig even if i just was going a bit slow up an then nose down ,but who nos i have nobody to help me or look at my set up to assist so its all trial an trial reading
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Old 06-01-2015, 05:42 AM   #1014
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Just an FYI for those with a loose rear end:

I bashed my .3 for the first time on Saturday because I was unable to get out and race this weekend.

During the first session the rear end was still loose (as I had experienced during the last two race days) If I would be on throttle while turning it would just about do donuts if I didn't let off.

The setup at this time was 10/10/7, rear toe/anti-squat setting was two dots to the outer/upper location (4 deg toe, close to flat arms) rear shocks laid down.

I went back to my place, took it apart, and changed the following:
- 10/7/7
- rear pills to one dot all the way down, all the way out (4 deg toe, regular anti squat)
- rear shocks - inner arm hole/2nd to top hole on tower

Took it back out and it felt planted! it pulled through the turns and the rear was more planted off power with more anti-squat.

Hope this helps others with the same problem.
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Old 06-01-2015, 12:16 PM   #1015
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Any one braking the composite diff pins?
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Old 06-01-2015, 12:49 PM   #1016
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Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
The only thing I've done so far is bent the rear shock towers. Done it once on v1 and replaced with buggy towers. I had a feeling it was going to happen on v3 and it did. Hope they come out with some tougher ones. Maybe the new buggy towers will work.
Yeah I'm in the process of making my.2 to a .3 and I really don't want those towers and I still haven't seen any word on cnc towers yet, so I'll just run my old ones, carbon fiber till then.
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Old 06-01-2015, 01:31 PM   #1017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by louie8269 View Post
Just an FYI for those with a loose rear end:

I bashed my .3 for the first time on Saturday because I was unable to get out and race this weekend.

During the first session the rear end was still loose (as I had experienced during the last two race days) If I would be on throttle while turning it would just about do donuts if I didn't let off.

The setup at this time was 10/10/7, rear toe/anti-squat setting was two dots to the outer/upper location (4 deg toe, close to flat arms) rear shocks laid down.

I went back to my place, took it apart, and changed the following:
- 10/7/7
- rear pills to one dot all the way down, all the way out (4 deg toe, regular anti squat)
- rear shocks - inner arm hole/2nd to top hole on tower

Took it back out and it felt planted! it pulled through the turns and the rear was more planted off power with more anti-squat.

Hope this helps others with the same problem.
What's the proper way to adjust rear toe? Move the very rear mounts OUT?? Or move the front of the rear arms IN??
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Old 06-01-2015, 01:52 PM   #1018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by louie8269 View Post
Just an FYI for those with a loose rear end:

I bashed my .3 for the first time on Saturday because I was unable to get out and race this weekend.

During the first session the rear end was still loose (as I had experienced during the last two race days) If I would be on throttle while turning it would just about do donuts if I didn't let off.

The setup at this time was 10/10/7, rear toe/anti-squat setting was two dots to the outer/upper location (4 deg toe, close to flat arms) rear shocks laid down.

I went back to my place, took it apart, and changed the following:
- 10/7/7
- rear pills to one dot all the way down, all the way out (4 deg toe, regular anti squat)
- rear shocks - inner arm hole/2nd to top hole on tower

Took it back out and it felt planted! it pulled through the turns and the rear was more planted off power with more anti-squat.

Hope this helps others with the same problem.
Standing up the shocks and going in on the arm might the greatest contributor to the increased rear traction. Also, double dot up and out on the D block is 3.5 degrees of toe and 2.5 degrees of antisquat if you're running the center dot in the C block. By going up on the D block to decrease antisquat you're also raising your roll center. A higher rear roll center will have less traction off power into a turn. By going to 1 dot out and down you lowered your roll center a lot, and increased your toe by .5 degrees, both giving you more rear traction off power. Yes, you also went to 4 degrees of antisquat, but I believe your other changes are what is giving you the feeling you were searching for.
One thing I like about this setup is that you probably have plenty of on power traction as well with that antisquat. I plan on going down on my D block to test this out.
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Old 06-01-2015, 01:54 PM   #1019
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What's the proper way to adjust rear toe? Move the very rear mounts OUT?? Or move the front of the rear arms IN??
Either is fine. You can slightly adjust track width depending on which one you adjust. I usually use the D block because it's faster.
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Old 06-01-2015, 02:39 PM   #1020
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[QUOTE=Barillms;14035218]What's the proper way to adjust rear toe? Move the very rear mounts OUT?? Or move the front of the rear arms
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