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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 05-29-2015, 09:33 PM   #991
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Originally Posted by Sk8rob View Post
Ran my sct for the first time over the weekend. The rear end was so loose. I would spin out on the straights and any throttle into a turn it would spin out. It's box stock with the vented setup. Rx8/4600kv and 15T. Any ideas?
Try moving the rear hubs all the way forward and see if that helps.
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Old 05-29-2015, 10:10 PM   #992
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Shorter wheelbase will make the car rotate more. More toe and less antisquat.
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Old 05-29-2015, 11:13 PM   #993
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Shorter wheelbase will make the car rotate more. More toe and less antisquat.
Yes what he said ^^^
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Old 05-29-2015, 11:42 PM   #994
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Shorter wheelbase also moves the rear weight further rearward, causing more hangover in the ass end which puts more traction on the rear tires.
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Old 05-29-2015, 11:54 PM   #995
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I built mine to box stock specs, and the recommend set up was AWFUL. The front end was stiff and sat way too high. The rear end was Wayyyyy too soft and sat about 1/2" high while the front was about 1.5" off the ground. The box stock set up is not right.

I couldn't even get the thing to sit at 25mm ride height with the stock set up.

First off, the rear dampening is WAY too soft. The 10 hole pistons are too soft, the rear Black springs are too soft, and also the oil is too thin slightly. Secondly, the front springs are either too long or too stiff. The Green front springs need to be lighter, and the rear Black springs are too soft.

I ended up changing the rear oil to 30 weight. And changed to a 8x1.3 hole piston right off the bat. I have the rear springs cranked down about 3/4" and I finally got it sitting level. But it's no where near 25mm ride height. Its more like 30mm."

Definitely the box stock aren't right. Not sure why, but it was really off for me.
I'm not being negative, just speaking the truth.
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Old 05-30-2015, 12:15 AM   #996
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Originally Posted by Barillms View Post
I built mine to box stock specs, and the recommend set up was AWFUL. The front end was stiff and sat way too high. The rear end was Wayyyyy too soft and sat about 1/2" high while the front was about 1.5" off the ground. The box stock set up is not right.

I couldn't even get the thing to sit at 25mm ride height with the stock set up.

First off, the rear dampening is WAY too soft. The 10 hole pistons are too soft, the rear Black springs are too soft, and also the oil is too thin slightly. Secondly, the front springs are either too long or too stiff. The Green front springs need to be lighter, and the rear Black springs are too soft.

I ended up changing the rear oil to 30 weight. And changed to a 8x1.3 hole piston right off the bat. I have the rear springs cranked down about 3/4" and I finally got it sitting level. But it's no where near 25mm ride height. Its more like 30mm."

Definitely the box stock aren't right. Not sure why, but it was really off for me.
I'm not being negative, just speaking the truth.
Check your ride height after a race day. Earlier posts says the springs settle to where they are supposed to be. The box setup has been okay for me. Had some problems with the front dropping too much during braking (no rear traction causing spin-outs at the end of the straight). As recommended, I lowered the front kick-up (less rearward angle on front arm). Will test it out Sat night. If all is well there, I may play with rear springs going to pinks in the rear with 300/350 wt oil. I'm curious as to how the 8x1.3 work on this car as well as the 6x1.5. Supposedly, the 6x1.5 are more for the bug and trug.
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Old 05-30-2015, 12:18 AM   #997
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Originally Posted by Sk8rob View Post
The track is loose and loamy. I'm using some aka soft gridirons. I reamed out the arms before putting them together. No noticeable binding that I can see.

Forgive my ignorance, what do you mean minimum toe?
I can't delete my post. I was thinking the gridirons were small pins, but that's the gridiron II. Tire should be good, but you may want to check to see what others are running.
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Old 05-30-2015, 06:10 AM   #998
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Check the front center drive shaft collet where it goes into the front diff, if that comes loose you will loose front drive.
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Old 05-30-2015, 06:41 AM   #999
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barillms View Post
I built mine to box stock specs, and the recommend set up was AWFUL. The front end was stiff and sat way too high. The rear end was Wayyyyy too soft and sat about 1/2" high while the front was about 1.5" off the ground. The box stock set up is not right.

I couldn't even get the thing to sit at 25mm ride height with the stock set up.

First off, the rear dampening is WAY too soft. The 10 hole pistons are too soft, the rear Black springs are too soft, and also the oil is too thin slightly. Secondly, the front springs are either too long or too stiff. The Green front springs need to be lighter, and the rear Black springs are too soft.

I ended up changing the rear oil to 30 weight. And changed to a 8x1.3 hole piston right off the bat. I have the rear springs cranked down about 3/4" and I finally got it sitting level. But it's no where near 25mm ride height. Its more like 30mm."

Definitely the box stock aren't right. Not sure why, but it was really off for me.
I'm not being negative, just speaking the truth.
Not sure whats going on here but I am running pretty close to box stock, front green spring are right where they need to be. I did go with pink rear but I think I'm going to go back to the black. I am also going to try 30 front and 25 rear to soften it up a little bit. All in all the stock setup is a great place to start and is far from awful.
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Old 05-30-2015, 04:46 PM   #1000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barillms View Post
I built mine to box stock specs, and the recommend set up was AWFUL. The front end was stiff and sat way too high. The rear end was Wayyyyy too soft and sat about 1/2" high while the front was about 1.5" off the ground. The box stock set up is not right.

I couldn't even get the thing to sit at 25mm ride height with the stock set up.

First off, the rear dampening is WAY too soft. The 10 hole pistons are too soft, the rear Black springs are too soft, and also the oil is too thin slightly. Secondly, the front springs are either too long or too stiff. The Green front springs need to be lighter, and the rear Black springs are too soft.

I ended up changing the rear oil to 30 weight. And changed to a 8x1.3 hole piston right off the bat. I have the rear springs cranked down about 3/4" and I finally got it sitting level. But it's no where near 25mm ride height. Its more like 30mm."

Definitely the box stock aren't right. Not sure why, but it was really off for me.
I'm not being negative, just speaking the truth.
The box stock setup was designed for more compact indoor tracks, where at the time of development is where the trucks were mostly being run at. Tekno has even stated that the rear shock package may/will need to be stiffened up for warmer climates, and outdoor tracks.

The springs will need to settle in a bit yet. Every spring does. They even wear out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Barillms View Post
Shorter wheelbase also moves the rear weight further rearward, causing more hangover in the ass end which puts more traction on the rear tires.
Youre also adding weight out far past the rear axle, which will make the rear swing out in a pendulum effect. When you tune weight transfer between the front and rear, you want to do it between the front and rear axles, not past them.
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Old 05-30-2015, 04:48 PM   #1001
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Is there a setup that tekno has standardized on as an "outdoor" track setup to use? May be helpful to have that on the site to reference.
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Old 05-30-2015, 04:54 PM   #1002
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Is there a setup that tekno has standardized on as an "outdoor" track setup to use? May be helpful to have that on the site to reference.
Nothing "standard" or official yet. The consensus so far has been a heavier rear oil like 300~350cst.
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Old 05-30-2015, 08:58 PM   #1003
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Im going to be picking up two 410.3 kits for my boy and i, both will be used for racing and bashing, im trying to figure out what parts i should keep on hand? From all i read on these there very solid i really hate to buy a bunch of stuff that i will never use. Just wondering what you guys have broke or seen others break, thanks!!
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Old 05-30-2015, 10:12 PM   #1004
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just purchased a tekno sct410.3. any battery suggestions? was looking at the smc 6500 60c. ill be using it for practice and maybe some racing.
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Old 05-30-2015, 10:15 PM   #1005
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Nothing "standard" or official yet. The consensus so far has been a heavier rear oil like 300~350cst.
With black springs or go up to pink or green? Still 350 in the front?
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