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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 05-28-2015, 01:30 PM   #976
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Also note that with the 4000kv hobbywing I would start with a 17t, not a 14t, and maybe go up to 18t if on a larger track (which is the same advice we give for the Pro4 HD 4300kv). I normally ran 16t on the 4700kv and other companies 4800kv motors. If you're on a super tiny and tight track maybe use a 16t.
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Old 05-28-2015, 09:39 PM   #977
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So i have the castle mamba max pro with neu castle 1410 ,i made my first run sort of but all looks good a big deference then my RTR pro sc i first got

Last edited by Aswild; 05-28-2015 at 11:04 PM.
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Old 05-29-2015, 02:29 AM   #978
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Quote:
Originally Posted by louie8269 View Post
I have the same motor and my first run I had the 15T on it and meshed it with room to spare on the complete stock mount. Not sure what might be wrong? Can you post a picture?
Just to make sure - we are talking about the SCT410.3 aren't we? With the stock mount that comes with the kit?

If we are then 15 tooth should be fine. I have the XErun 4000kv motor as well. I put 15 on it first and had no issues. I believe you can definitely go smaller. I now have an 18 though and that is much more like it. The 4000kv loves big pinions
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Old 05-29-2015, 06:45 AM   #979
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The stock losi sct rims hit on rear hub carriers. Found out after melting the negative wire on my battery connection..worked great with the jc rims and my home tires put race tires on last night for a little home practice and motor or esc not hot but melted the connector solder.they would spin freely on bench but if you put pressure on them like coming into turn they would rub on ribs on rim....

just a fyi in case anyone having issues..
Looking forward to first race sat if it doesn't rain....
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Old 05-29-2015, 06:59 AM   #980
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aswild View Post
I used the apoxy. In a tube an put some in each hole then put the post in ,it's like it was made like that no issuies
That sounds like a good idea. I basically had given up on the idea because I wanted to make sure the set screws didn't come lose, but epoxy should do a good job of securing the set screws. I wish proline incorpated all of this in their design (Tekno body mount angle and offset with set screw secured). I think that would really sell.
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Old 05-29-2015, 08:34 AM   #981
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Originally Posted by advpball View Post
The stock losi sct rims hit on rear hub carriers. Found out after melting the negative wire on my battery connection..worked great with the jc rims and my home tires put race tires on last night for a little home practice and motor or esc not hot but melted the connector solder.they would spin freely on bench but if you put pressure on them like coming into turn they would rub on ribs on rim....

just a fyi in case anyone having issues..
Looking forward to first race sat if it doesn't rain....
Yep i have the same issuie on the rear when u tighten them down they rub ,I'm going to order some + 1 hex off set from tekno site that should do it.
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Old 05-29-2015, 08:58 AM   #982
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What does going to the 6 hole pistons do for the truck? Drove it for the first time last night with basically the stock setup and it jumped very poorly and felt quite bouncy. Was thinking of going to pink/pink springs but also considering a shock piston change as well.
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Old 05-29-2015, 09:01 AM   #983
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the 6 x 1.5s and the 8 x 1.3s offer more pack than the 10 x 1.2s . This helped a lot with nose down issues and the bouncy feel.
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Old 05-29-2015, 09:55 AM   #984
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with the original sct410 i blocked 2 holes on the pistons that helped a lot .
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Old 05-29-2015, 02:58 PM   #985
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Ran my sct for the first time over the weekend. The rear end was so loose. I would spin out on the straights and any throttle into a turn it would spin out. It's box stock with the vented setup. Rx8/4600kv and 15T. Any ideas?
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Old 05-29-2015, 03:17 PM   #986
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sk8rob View Post
Ran my sct for the first time over the weekend. The rear end was so loose. I would spin out on the straights and any throttle into a turn it would spin out. It's box stock with the vented setup. Rx8/4600kv and 15T. Any ideas?
What kind of surface are you running on? Using the same compound/type tires that others that seem to be working at your track are using? Is all the suspension nice and free/nothing bound up? I haven't even ran mine yet but these are points I would check on first and then go from there.
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Old 05-29-2015, 03:32 PM   #987
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Originally Posted by Sk8rob View Post
Ran my sct for the first time over the weekend. The rear end was so loose. I would spin out on the straights and any throttle into a turn it would spin out. It's box stock with the vented setup. Rx8/4600kv and 15T. Any ideas?
Set the rear hinge pin inserts to the minimum toe setting and report back!
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Old 05-29-2015, 03:43 PM   #988
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Set the rear hinge pin inserts to the minimum toe setting and report back!
What do u Mean, are u referring to the pills?

Last edited by Aswild; 05-29-2015 at 04:10 PM.
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Old 05-29-2015, 03:43 PM   #989
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The track is loose and loamy. I'm using some aka soft gridirons. I reamed out the arms before putting them together. No noticeable binding that I can see.

Forgive my ignorance, what do you mean minimum toe?
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Old 05-29-2015, 03:54 PM   #990
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I don't think you want to go to minimum rear toe. You want to increase rear toe if anything. To me, it sounds like you are trying to run too high of a center diff oil for the track conditions. Try lowering the center diff oil and let the front end pull the truck out of corners. If you are limiting your front droop too much you might also not be getting enough weight transfer to the rear.
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