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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 05-23-2015, 09:46 PM   #916
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Judging by the sponsors, Id guess its Sean Ramos.
Yep, your correct. Another local racer comfirmed. Thanks
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Old 05-24-2015, 12:38 AM   #917
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Does any one no if the tekin pro4 4600kv 540 can motor would push this sct around ok or should i get the pro4 hd 4300kv 550 can. If someone has tried both please weigh in your advise or anyones for that matter would be greatly appreciated. TIA
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Old 05-24-2015, 06:36 AM   #918
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Does any one no if the tekin pro4 4600kv 540 can motor would push this sct around ok or should i get the pro4 hd 4300kv 550 can. If someone has tried both please weigh in your advise or anyones for that matter would be greatly appreciated. TIA
The 4600 is more than enough and much easier on drive train and batteries. My son runs the Hobbywing 4000 in his turned down just a titch (he's a pretty good driver) and I was running the Viper 4500 in mine when I was still in the class. The Viper was a beast. For many moons, I ran the Tekin Pro4 4000 with good success. The 4300 HD is not ROAR legal if that matters to you.
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Old 05-24-2015, 07:43 AM   #919
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I posted in the EB48SL thread but as I'm building 410.3 too thought I would put it here as well being both threads seem to get different visitors,

In the process of putting my EB48sl and 410.3 together at the same time, these are my first Tekno builds other then helping buddies on occasion. Anyway all 4 front and rear diffs seem to want to go in the housings with only one shim on the gear side of housing for best mesh, both on gear side and it is too tight and one on each side doesn't feel right either, once in the housing and tightened up they feel pretty smooth for being new so I'm guessing I'm OK? Both center diffs feel crunchy when fully tight, back off screws just a touch (like half turn) and they both free up......normal? Also noticed when the droop screws are put in the arms all the way that it tightened up the hinge pins on the arms and had to ream the arms some more to get free movement. Just looking for some clarification that I'm going about everything in the right way being my first Tekno's. The kits seem quality and I'm happy so far just trying to learn them. Thanks
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Old 05-24-2015, 09:38 AM   #920
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I posted in the EB48SL thread but as I'm building 410.3 too thought I would put it here as well being both threads seem to get different visitors,

In the process of putting my EB48sl and 410.3 together at the same time, these are my first Tekno builds other then helping buddies on occasion. Anyway all 4 front and rear diffs seem to want to go in the housings with only one shim on the gear side of housing for best mesh, both on gear side and it is too tight and one on each side doesn't feel right either, once in the housing and tightened up they feel pretty smooth for being new so I'm guessing I'm OK? Both center diffs feel crunchy when fully tight, back off screws just a touch (like half turn) and they both free up......normal? Also noticed when the droop screws are put in the arms all the way that it tightened up the hinge pins on the arms and had to ream the arms some more to get free movement. Just looking for some clarification that I'm going about everything in the right way being my first Tekno's. The kits seem quality and I'm happy so far just trying to learn them. Thanks
Everything you just posted is pretty normal for the Tekno kits.I have a 410,410.3,and eb48sl and on my rear and front diffs on my 410 I had to put one shim on each side.On my 410.3 and eb48sl both shims went right in on the gear side with no problems.
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Old 05-24-2015, 04:04 PM   #921
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This weekend I noticed that when I'm at a hard steering point my wheels are rubbing so I had to back off my EPA to make sure it didn't. Everything appears tight but I lost a TON of steering since I had to make such drastic changes to my EPA. What can I look for that may fix this?
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Old 05-24-2015, 04:49 PM   #922
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This weekend I noticed that when I'm at a hard steering point my wheels are rubbing so I had to back off my EPA to make sure it didn't. Everything appears tight but I lost a TON of steering since I had to make such drastic changes to my EPA. What can I look for that may fix this?
What wheels? Rubbing the arms? Pics
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Old 05-24-2015, 04:51 PM   #923
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Does any one no if the tekin pro4 4600kv 540 can motor would push this sct around ok or should i get the pro4 hd 4300kv 550 can. If someone has tried both please weigh in your advise or anyones for that matter would be greatly appreciated. TIA
Preferred the 540 over the 550. You get better runtime, more top end, and don't ruin your batteries.
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Old 05-24-2015, 06:48 PM   #924
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What wheels? Rubbing the arms? Pics
Yeah rubbing the arms. I can't post pics right now but I will when I can
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Old 05-24-2015, 09:33 PM   #925
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Yeah rubbing the arms. I can't post pics right now but I will when I can
Set your steering stops so they barely miss rubbing the arms.
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Old 05-25-2015, 08:02 AM   #926
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Do you guys think the new truck is that much better than the old one?
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Old 05-25-2015, 12:34 PM   #927
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I've got two races in the new .3 truck. truck is great in box stock form. took the tq and win at our local Friday racing track. went to a bigger event on a bigger 1/8 track and truck was just as good. was running in 2nd place when my hw sct pro went into thermal. its done this a few times now. esc is not hot. hottest temp I could find on it was 103. anyone else have this issue? I'm running the 4700 motor with a 16t pinion. motor is coming off at 140 max. usually only 130F. fan is working on the esc too. really bummed about the esc. I thought it was made for applications like this? oh, and battery is a brand new smc 7200.

the first version truck was good box stock. this one is better box stock. my .02
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Old 05-25-2015, 12:40 PM   #928
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are you sure its thermaling?
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Old 05-25-2015, 01:30 PM   #929
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It is not thermalling, the LVC is coming on tok soon. The latest software fixes that. It also makes it so when LVC does hit, you can still crawl out of the way instead of a sitting duck.
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Old 05-25-2015, 04:49 PM   #930
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are you sure its thermaling?
was a slow blinking green led. I believe that is thermal.
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