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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 05-19-2015, 02:29 PM   #871
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Originally Posted by rcdave905 View Post
Some of my rims work without hitting, and some do hit. And yes it is probably just the ribs on the inside of the rims hitting something.
Just thought if I could dremel something on the arm of my 410.3 instead of having to dremel the ribs on the rims, it would be easier.
It's not the arm it may be the upper part of the rear carrier, you could dremel some of that off but I wouldn't want to risk weakening it.
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Old 05-19-2015, 02:40 PM   #872
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Originally Posted by louie8269 View Post
I thought less anti-squat transferred more weight to the rear thus giving more rear traction? Is that wrong? If I'm lacking rear traction due to a perceived lack of weight transfer I would want more anti-squat?

Less anti squat = a more shallow angle of the rear hinge pins correct? This would allow the rear to squat upon acceleration which would increase weight transfer to the rear. correct? More weight to the rear = more rear traction.

If I'm misunderstanding you or there is an error in my thinking please let me know.
I always have to look this up in the Hudy guide. According to the Hudy guide:

Less anti-squat (flatter arm)
Increases rear traction off-power
Decreases rear traction on-power
Better on a bumpy track

More anti-squat (leaning more backwards)
Increases rear traction during acceleration
Decreases rear traction off-power
Better on smooth high grip tracks
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Old 05-19-2015, 03:36 PM   #873
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Quote:
Originally Posted by louie8269 View Post
I thought less anti-squat transferred more weight to the rear thus giving more rear traction? Is that wrong? If I'm lacking rear traction due to a perceived lack of weight transfer I would want more anti-squat?

Less anti squat = a more shallow angle of the rear hinge pins correct? This would allow the rear to squat upon acceleration which would increase weight transfer to the rear. correct? More weight to the rear = more rear traction.

If I'm misunderstanding you or there is an error in my thinking please let me know.
You are correct sir.
if you are having loose rear issues you must first re exam your upper ,lower shock mounts and hinge pin holders. Be sure they are not too tight . Lots of people make this mistake and no matter what you change it will never be good if the suspensions are bound up and can't do their job! Yes..sometimes its that simple.
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Old 05-19-2015, 04:20 PM   #874
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Originally Posted by Tijuana_Taxi View Post
It's not the arm it may be the upper part of the rear carrier, you could dremel some of that off but I wouldn't want to risk weakening it.
My rear tire rims bub on the bubs on the in side by the hex,seem like i need to space it out a bit
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Old 05-19-2015, 05:24 PM   #875
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Originally Posted by Aswild View Post
My rear tire rims bub on the bubs on the in side by the hex,seem like i need to space it out a bit
hmmm hex area I don't have that problem but if I did I might try these or the 1mm ones

http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html

i'm running the Alu clamping hexes off my SCT410 not sure if that might be the difference compared to the stock steel ones if that's what you have on.
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Old 05-19-2015, 07:39 PM   #876
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Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
I always have to look this up in the Hudy guide. According to the Hudy guide:

Less anti-squat (flatter arm)
• Increases rear traction off-power
• Decreases rear traction on-power
• Better on a bumpy track

More anti-squat (leaning more backwards)
• Increases rear traction during acceleration
• Decreases rear traction off-power
• Better on smooth high grip tracks
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lowe's48 View Post
You are correct sir.
if you are having loose rear issues you must first re exam your upper ,lower shock mounts and hinge pin holders. Be sure they are not too tight . Lots of people make this mistake and no matter what you change it will never be good if the suspensions are bound up and can't do their job! Yes..sometimes its that simple.
Ok, so there are two people telling me different things.

Can anyone clarify or confirm?

ETA: I checked the rear suspension and everything is moving freely.
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Old 05-19-2015, 10:34 PM   #877
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I'm having nose down jumping issues. Running stock setup with emulsion shocks. Any recommendations? (besides moving the battery back)
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Old 05-19-2015, 10:46 PM   #878
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Originally Posted by Everybody79x View Post
I'm having nose down jumping issues. Running stock setup with emulsion shocks. Any recommendations? (besides moving the battery back)
Try the vented shock setup. It's better all around IMO.
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Old 05-19-2015, 11:22 PM   #879
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Originally Posted by Tijuana_Taxi View Post
hmmm hex area I don't have that problem but if I did I might try these or the 1mm ones

http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html

i'm running the Alu clamping hexes off my SCT410 not sure if that might be the difference compared to the stock steel ones if that's what you have on.
Thanks i will order those that will work.
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Old 05-20-2015, 04:35 AM   #880
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Quote:
Originally Posted by louie8269 View Post
Ok, so there are two people telling me different things.

Can anyone clarify or confirm?

ETA: I checked the rear suspension and everything is moving freely.
I was just quoting the Hudy manual. Going by it and what you said, it sounds like you need more rear traction on power and increasing the anti-squat on the rear would help. I'll let someone else chime in on this tho.
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Old 05-20-2015, 06:46 AM   #881
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Everybody79x View Post
I'm having nose down jumping issues. Running stock setup with emulsion shocks. Any recommendations? (besides moving the battery back)
You could try a little stiffer rear spring. Also, make sure you have no drag brake. I run a little bit of push in the ESC.
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Old 05-20-2015, 06:47 AM   #882
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Originally Posted by louie8269 View Post
I didn't have any issues with the end being loose when braking. Only upon acceleration. Both in a straight line and coming out of a turn.
What center diff fluid are you using? Loose track or high bite? Could be the rear has too much drive compared to the front.
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Old 05-20-2015, 07:10 AM   #883
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Originally Posted by Tijuana_Taxi View Post
What center diff fluid are you using? Loose track or high bite? Could be the rear has too much drive compared to the front.
I'm using 10k in the center diff. My diff fluids are 10/10/7 currently. I thought about that as well but wasn't sure if a more 'locked down' center diff would actually cause the rear to be loose. The outdoor tracks I run on are considered medium bite.
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Old 05-20-2015, 07:40 AM   #884
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On my 2nd time out with the .3 I broke the front-rear hinge pin brace. (Front and Rear outer hinge pin brace's are metal). I also bent the hinge pin as well. I'm not really sure what I hit to cause this. This is the same track/layout I had been running the V1 for many months with 0 issues. I guess it's time to upgrade the inner hinge pins now also. Had to leave before the races start . I left my V1 at home so could not swap parts over.
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Old 05-20-2015, 07:49 AM   #885
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Originally Posted by louie8269 View Post
I'm using 10k in the center diff. My diff fluids are 10/10/7 currently. I thought about that as well but wasn't sure if a more 'locked down' center diff would actually cause the rear to be loose. The outdoor tracks I run on are considered medium bite.
I would try lowering the center diff weight to allow the front to pull a little more. All depends on driving style but 10/10/7 might be a little high all the way around for anything except high bite stuff.
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