219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
|
|||
|
|||
|
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
|
05-18-2015, 11:14 AM
#856
Just finished up my sct410.3 
05-18-2015, 11:52 AM
#857
I've only been able to run my truck once about 3 weeks ago. It ran pretty well and I don't think I had the best tires available to make it totally planted. However, even given that, I felt my rear was too loose. (I don't think the tires were that far off from optimal)
Has anyone messed with the rear anti-squat? My rear toe is already at -4 deg so my next step would be to try to decrease the anti squat. thoughts?
Has anyone messed with the rear anti-squat? My rear toe is already at -4 deg so my next step would be to try to decrease the anti squat. thoughts?
Just curious as to when the rear end gets loose. Is it when trying to make a turn after a high speed section or all the time? Mine is pretty planted. I did drop my brake strength and decreased my rear droop because my nose was drooping too when I hit the brakes at the end of the straight. However, I felt that was on me. I need to brake earlier and no so hard. I was also oversteering trying to get into the turn. I did some 360s last week at the end of the straight, but, after making the adjustments, I was good.
As for the antisquat, I never run more than 2 degrees and I mostly run 1 degree. It really keeps the rear end planted into a turn and I don't feel I give up too much traction on power.
05-18-2015, 01:18 PM
#858
Tech Master
05-18-2015, 08:45 PM
#859
05-18-2015, 09:38 PM
#861
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
A great way to have the truck brake straighter and more controlled is to take kickup out of the front. I have been running the least amount of front kickup for some time now (1 dot down on the A block and 1 dot up on the B block) and recently convinced some guys to try it on their vehicles. All who have tried it have only had positive results.
As for the antisquat, I never run more than 2 degrees and I mostly run 1 degree. It really keeps the rear end planted into a turn and I don't feel I give up too much traction on power.
As for the antisquat, I never run more than 2 degrees and I mostly run 1 degree. It really keeps the rear end planted into a turn and I don't feel I give up too much traction on power.
05-19-2015, 07:29 AM
#862
I got it nvm
Last edited by Aswild; 05-19-2015 at 07:55 AM.
05-19-2015, 07:44 AM
#863
Just line it up and push it in. The bellcrank will hold it there so you can run the screw in.
05-19-2015, 07:46 AM
#864
I was at a big race in Ohio and saw this cool trailer in the parking lot. Had to take a pic. Then one day on my way to work I saw the same trailer in my neighbors drive. I could not believe that I live right around the corner from this guy and we don't know each other. Anyone know who this guy is? PM me if anyone knows. Thanks
05-19-2015, 09:44 AM
#865
Tech Adept
iTrader: (4)
Just curious as to when the rear end gets loose. Is it when trying to make a turn after a high speed section or all the time? Mine is pretty planted. I did drop my brake strength and decreased my rear droop because my nose was drooping too when I hit the brakes at the end of the straight. However, I felt that was on me. I need to brake earlier and no so hard. I was also oversteering trying to get into the turn. I did some 360s last week at the end of the straight, but, after making the adjustments, I was good.
05-19-2015, 09:48 AM
#866
Tech Adept
iTrader: (4)
A great way to have the truck brake straighter and more controlled is to take kickup out of the front. I have been running the least amount of front kickup for some time now (1 dot down on the A block and 1 dot up on the B block) and recently convinced some guys to try it on their vehicles. All who have tried it have only had positive results.
As for the anti-squat, I never run more than 2 degrees and I mostly run 1 degree. It really keeps the rear end planted into a turn and I don't feel I give up too much traction on power.
As for the anti-squat, I never run more than 2 degrees and I mostly run 1 degree. It really keeps the rear end planted into a turn and I don't feel I give up too much traction on power.
Less anti squat = a more shallow angle of the rear hinge pins correct? This would allow the rear to squat upon acceleration which would increase weight transfer to the rear. correct? More weight to the rear = more rear traction.
If I'm misunderstanding you or there is an error in my thinking please let me know.
05-19-2015, 10:49 AM
#867
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (3)
I don't think having all four is a needed expense personally unless something has changed on this vehicle versus the V1.
Tekno in general is trying to balance cost relative to what they can offer you in a package. It appears they added a lot of goodies to the vehicle, you will need to determine what you feel that is not there is a must have.
Personally, just start with the front hinge pin brace instead of all 4. Servo horn as well.
You can also use a cheaper horn assuming the steering assembly is the same on the new car. I did that with the V1s, just raised up the position of the access point on the steering arm then flipped the button head screw to come up from the bottom of the servo horn to clear it. Never had and issue and got the angles right too.
Tekno in general is trying to balance cost relative to what they can offer you in a package. It appears they added a lot of goodies to the vehicle, you will need to determine what you feel that is not there is a must have.
Personally, just start with the front hinge pin brace instead of all 4. Servo horn as well.
You can also use a cheaper horn assuming the steering assembly is the same on the new car. I did that with the V1s, just raised up the position of the access point on the steering arm then flipped the button head screw to come up from the bottom of the servo horn to clear it. Never had and issue and got the angles right too.
I am still hoping they will release some upgraded shock towers.
I am impressed with the full option shock kits and will probably pick those up as well. The stock plastic spring retainer nuts always spin on my trucks and i always upgraded to the alum ones to prevent that.
Anyone recommend stocking up on the 5mm axle nuts? Curious how they last?
05-19-2015, 10:59 AM
#868
Tech Apprentice
help
Thanks in advance.
05-19-2015, 12:19 PM
#869
Where is it rubbing? I assume you aren't running the mudguards like the EB48 has on the front of the rear arms, correct? They don't come with the .3 kit if that helps. I know on my DE wheels some of the ribs where it tapers down to the rim rub on the rear carriers on top where the link goes.
05-19-2015, 01:06 PM
#870
Tech Apprentice
Some of my rims work without hitting, and some do hit. And yes it is probably just the ribs on the inside of the rims hitting something.
Just thought if I could dremel something on the arm of my 410.3 instead of having to dremel the ribs on the rims, it would be easier.
Just thought if I could dremel something on the arm of my 410.3 instead of having to dremel the ribs on the rims, it would be easier.