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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 05-03-2015, 10:28 AM   #646
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Originally Posted by Orion_2kTC View Post
First weekend running this truck. First of all it's very forgiving to a newer driver like me. I had to get the truck dialed in but once I did and addressed some bad driving from myself the truck really shined. My only gripe, and this is probably true for all Pro 4 trucks, is that dirt seems to get in the battery tray and the motor / esc area. I'll probably look into a secondary cover. I still finished my heats last but his isn't the fault of the truck, just my skill. I look forward to running this truck all summer and beyond.
Depending on how much dirt...The secondary cover idea can be done quite well and easy with the EB48 buggy body under the SCT body. If you're only getting a little up there though, simply adding on the air guards to close off the sides of the body will probably be enough to make things decent enough as they also block stuff coming up and in, just not 100% nor do they block any airflow to the electronics (I run this way).
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Old 05-03-2015, 10:29 AM   #647
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Originally Posted by mamyllyn View Post
One question:
"where should I put "screws that build the endpoint of steering are not mentioned but are in the bag"?
In the spindles, there are holes on the back side of where the steering linkage connects. If you want to physically limit steering, put the screws in there and adjust the limit based on how far in you screw them.
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Old 05-03-2015, 11:52 AM   #648
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I raced the truck for the first time yesterday. It handled great all over, even more steering than my V1, but the rear suspension is a little soft. I'll be ordering in some parts that I hope will help address that. Different pistons, springs, ect. Hope to have a day to just test it out a bit. On the big jumps, the rear was slapping, and sending me nose down, but next lap she'd fly right. That being said, I had no practice time with the truck, it was straight into heat #2, and then the bmain. (missed heat 1 due to still building the truck at that time.)

Got 3rd in the bmain, couple laps down. Next outing in 2 weeks should be better.
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Old 05-03-2015, 11:58 AM   #649
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someone I heard fit the outerwears cover on the vehicle. Its nice in that it breathes but is water repellant and does a great job keeping crap out other than really really fine dust.
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Old 05-03-2015, 12:12 PM   #650
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In the spindles, there are holes on the back side of where the steering linkage connects. If you want to physically limit steering, put the screws in there and adjust the limit based on how far in you screw them.
Thank you, I did miss this one when i assembled my kit.
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Old 05-03-2015, 12:43 PM   #651
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Good to hear that this truck is hooked up good out of the box.I put fioroni Pistons in mine and went up to 25 wt in the rear,but have not had a chance to race it yet.the rear still seems a little soft to me though,but will find out when I get it to the track.
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Old 05-03-2015, 12:55 PM   #652
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Good to hear that this truck is hooked up good out of the box.I put fioroni Pistons in mine and went up to 25 wt in the rear,but have not had a chance to race it yet.the rear still seems a little soft to me though,but will find out when I get it to the track.
I'd almost go up to 30wt...I have a few combo's in mind.
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Old 05-03-2015, 01:09 PM   #653
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I'd almost go up to 30wt...I have a few combo's in mind.
On my v1 tekno truck I have 27.5 in the rear with the fioroni pistons and it's really good.i don't have the nose down issue if I stay on the throttle.
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Old 05-03-2015, 01:16 PM   #654
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On my v1 tekno truck I have 27.5 in the rear with the tekno pistons and it's really good.i don't have the nose down issue if I stay on the throttle.
Throw what you know about the old truck out the window. This truck was better every place accept for the big jumps. Only reason I have the nose down issue on the big jumps is due to the slapping of the chassis. My chassis after 2 races looks like I've raced for 2 months. The rear is just plain soft in my opinion. I need to firm it up for my driving. I'm first going to try the 6x1.5's, then play with weight. if that isn't enough, I'm going to try a piston change. And btw, I used 350cst in the rears, not the 200 like the kit says. It was still too soft.

oh, and your in Florida, so you'd need to go higher than me because of your 90 degree days.
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Old 05-03-2015, 01:49 PM   #655
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Originally Posted by ezlight View Post
Throw what you know about the old truck out the window. This truck was better every place accept for the big jumps. Only reason I have the nose down issue on the big jumps is due to the slapping of the chassis. My chassis after 2 races looks like I've raced for 2 months. The rear is just plain soft in my opinion. I need to firm it up for my driving. I'm first going to try the 6x1.5's, then play with weight. if that isn't enough, I'm going to try a piston change. And btw, I used 350cst in the rears, not the 200 like the kit says. It was still too soft.

oh, and your in Florida, so you'd need to go higher than me because of your 90 degree days.
A quick free way to stiffen the rear end up is to try the outer position on the arm.
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Old 05-03-2015, 01:50 PM   #656
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Originally Posted by ezlight View Post
Throw what you know about the old truck out the window. This truck was better every place accept for the big jumps. Only reason I have the nose down issue on the big jumps is due to the slapping of the chassis. My chassis after 2 races looks like I've raced for 2 months. The rear is just plain soft in my opinion. I need to firm it up for my driving. I'm first going to try the 6x1.5's, then play with weight. if that isn't enough, I'm going to try a piston change. And btw, I used 350cst in the rears, not the 200 like the kit says. It was still too soft.

oh, and your in Florida, so you'd need to go higher than me because of your 90 degree days.
Have you tried any different colored springs in the rear other than the box setup?I used red in the rear on the v1 and never had the nose down issues like others did.
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Old 05-03-2015, 01:53 PM   #657
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Possibly a dumb thought here but I'm going to post it anyway. The kit pistons are essentially a tapered piston with SUPER light oil. What about the possibility of running them upside down? On the AE stuff when we run tapered pistons we go up in weight because the tapered are inherently going to act softer. There is just no way that 20wt with tapered pistons is an appropriate shock setup.
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Old 05-03-2015, 02:07 PM   #658
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Possibly a dumb thought here but I'm going to post it anyway. The kit pistons are essentially a tapered piston with SUPER light oil. What about the possibility of running them upside down? On the AE stuff when we run tapered pistons we go up in weight because the tapered are inherently going to act softer. There is just no way that 20wt with tapered pistons is an appropriate shock setup.
Oil weight will vary greatly depending on the ambient temperature. The included 200 oil worked very well during our testing but the temps were lower then they are now, so going up in oil is expected.
I would only consider running the pistons upside down on super smooth tracks lacking any kind of small bumps or rhythm section.
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Old 05-03-2015, 02:12 PM   #659
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Originally Posted by Kave View Post
Possibly a dumb thought here but I'm going to post it anyway. The kit pistons are essentially a tapered piston with SUPER light oil. What about the possibility of running them upside down? On the AE stuff when we run tapered pistons we go up in weight because the tapered are inherently going to act softer. There is just no way that 20wt with tapered pistons is an appropriate shock setup.
The pistons are tapered, but also carry the inverse shape of that cone on the top as well. There has been a lot of setup on this truck that doesn't seem like it should work, but it does. I do know a couple people experimented with running the pistons upside-down, which made the bound side softer, and the rebound slower, basically making the truck suck itself down when landing.
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Old 05-03-2015, 02:15 PM   #660
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Matthew do you think 25 wt in the rear with fioroni pistons will be sufficient enough on a loose outdoor track?Or do you think I should go up in weight in the rear?
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