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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 04-26-2015, 05:31 PM   #571
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I prefer inbound plugs that way it looks cleaner and you don't have a balancing cord flopping around.
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Old 04-26-2015, 05:41 PM   #572
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Me personally as long as my deans have been good and I don't have them flopping around I haven't had issues.

But I do like 5mm bullets too.
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Old 04-26-2015, 06:24 PM   #573
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpt_RedBeard View Post
+1 Traxxas are the only connectors I've never had fail or come unplugged
Funny, Traxxas are the only connectors that I have had fail on me. I swapped to deans and haven't had an issue since.
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Old 04-26-2015, 08:33 PM   #574
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Add me to the list of guys who recommends the traxxas connectors. The real ones, not the cheep copies on eBa*. Bought my SMC batteries that way with 10 awg. wires. I see other guys with melted inboard connectors and when they see my monster battery wires and traxxas connectors they do a V8 slap on their forhead. Plus I never plug anything in backwards by accident. I was a power pole connector guy for a long time, then went all deans. But with the traxxas I never pull on the wires and there is more surface contact inside the connector than the deans. So now everything I run has traxxas plugs. I do have a bunch of traxxas to "other brands" converters made up just in case a friend needs to barrow something or I need to charge someone else's battery. Its important to pretin then solder wick the gold from the solder area before you solder the wire to the lead. Its how I was taught at NASA to treat all gold plated parts prior to doing the final solder joint. And don't solder past the line on the lead or the lead will not snap properly into the connector housing. I see this problem almost all the time a guy shows me how his leads won't stay in the connector. I laugh inside everytime I see a guy with deans, cold solder joints, and electrical tape holding their sh*t together. I may suck driving but I almost always finish.
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Last edited by Guch; 04-26-2015 at 08:46 PM. Reason: Because!
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Old 04-27-2015, 05:35 AM   #575
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Anyone using the savox 1256 servo? I ordered my kit and electronics and got the 1256 because of the additional torque but am now wondering if it will be too slow. thoughts?
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Old 04-27-2015, 06:02 AM   #576
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while connectors are a topic.. any one use castle's connectors ?
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Old 04-27-2015, 06:28 AM   #577
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EC5 or 5mm Bullets is the only way to go. I actually prefer the bullets as it gives a cleaner look. They care just a pain to remove sometimes.
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Old 04-27-2015, 06:44 AM   #578
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I use bullet plugs straight into the battery, never come out and Ive done some jumps and had some big crashes. less wiring means less weight so in my 410 I had the esc posts servo side, and since Im using them electrics on the .3 they too face the same way.

I too broke a wheel hex when building the .3 kit, I thought it was just me being heavy handed but clearly not looking on here.

A quick ? on ride height, the new truck sits really low with the new spring/oil combo and front the really rebounds, I could not see anywhere in the manual about pre load setting or anything so I just wound the collars down the shock body till it was sitting level.

I just finished the 2015 livery on my Jconcepts Raptor SCT-R shell over the weekend!! I must be one of the first guys in the UK to get this truck as I was with the 410, cant wait to start racing, first race is May 17th!!!







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Old 04-27-2015, 06:52 AM   #579
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I am going to start building my shocks this week, and have talked to a couple people saying the .3 box shock package is too soft. I did notice the shock oil weight seemed very light when I looked at them. one was 200cst. IIRC, v1 was 350 & 450cst.

Any recommendations at this point for oil weights? I'm thing 35/30 would be a good start. I think I was running 30/27.5 before.
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Old 04-27-2015, 07:26 AM   #580
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how much does this suspension geometry change actually effect the handling ? anyone get any solid track time that can make a comparison ?
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Old 04-27-2015, 08:39 AM   #581
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I'm racing tomorrow night so will ha e a better idea then, the new geometry means it doesn't need to be so heavy oil wise to gain the same damping.
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Old 04-27-2015, 08:40 AM   #582
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guch View Post
When will we see a .3 machined gun metal anodize or carbon fiber version of the shock towers? I have the v1 front 5mm carbon one and have broke two of the rear 4mm carbon ones. I switched to the machined rear one and have found it to hold up the best. Is there a .3 5mm carbon rear tower coming? My rear v1 carbon towers always break at the two unused holes in the middle of the tower.
Both carbon and machined towers are on their way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ezlight View Post
I am going to start building my shocks this week, and have talked to a couple people saying the .3 box shock package is too soft. I did notice the shock oil weight seemed very light when I looked at them. one was 200cst. IIRC, v1 was 350 & 450cst.

Any recommendations at this point for oil weights? I'm thing 35/30 would be a good start. I think I was running 30/27.5 before.
I feel that the stock package is a bit light, but I found it to handle great with 6x1.5 piston.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheCore View Post
how much does this suspension geometry change actually effect the handling ? anyone get any solid track time that can make a comparison ?
It changes a lot actually. I ran the kit setup this past weekend. Truck handles amazingly. I was the only .3 truck there, and the only one who could consistently make a big quad.
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Old 04-27-2015, 08:56 AM   #583
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I've noticed on the .3 that the front and rear arms don't have as many holes drilled in them for adjustments.Is there a reason tekno did this?It just seems like that takes a lot of tuning options away as far as shock positions.
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Old 04-27-2015, 09:11 AM   #584
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The .3 suspension setup will feel soft on the bench but will work fine on the track. With the shocks mounted as far out as they are, it needs to be softer so as not to pack too much on the high speed bumps and landing big jumps.
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Old 04-27-2015, 10:26 AM   #585
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Has anyone had issues mounting wheels to the 10.3, I have jc hazard scte offset. The problem is I had to drill out the centres to fit over the new stub axles? Also the inside of the wheel rubs the cap head screw on the steering link where it attaches to the steering knuckle? Any ideas of foxes guys??
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