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Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread

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Old 09-05-2022, 08:19 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: rustyus
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.




Hinge Pin Insert Chart:

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.





















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Old 09-01-2017, 07:25 AM
  #5266  
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Originally Posted by builthatch
is there a chassis protector out there for the sct that has die cut screw holes?
Plenty of chassis skins available out there, but I personally wouldn't waste my time. I tried 1, and it didn't last one pack, and was shredded to crap. I wont waste my money on one again.

And once shredded, it's a PITA to get off in any decent size pieces.
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Old 09-01-2017, 08:58 AM
  #5267  
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This is what I use:

2 in. x 50 ft. 20 Mil Pipe Wrap Tape-53550 - The Home Depot

If someone can find one that is more like 4 in wide you could do chassis I think in one shot and trim. I heat this up after applying with a lighter and it helps it stick better.

As its pretty cheap I don't feel bad if i need to pull and replace and its is pretty durable.
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Old 09-01-2017, 09:04 AM
  #5268  
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Originally Posted by ezlight
Plenty of chassis skins available out there, but I personally wouldn't waste my time. I tried 1, and it didn't last one pack, and was shredded to crap. I wont waste my money on one again.

And once shredded, it's a PITA to get off in any decent size pieces.
thanks for the reply, but i have to admit that all protectors aren't the same, especially with so many options out now. i don't know what you had, but i've never had an experience like that with any of the protectors i've used, die cut or manually cut.

i like protectors but i'm kind of spoiled now that they are often available with screw holes, or at least some screw holes. but with this one, it looks like i may be back to the old days of cutting them manually.
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Old 09-01-2017, 09:18 AM
  #5269  
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Originally Posted by builthatch
thanks for the reply, but i have to admit that all protectors aren't the same, especially with so many options out now. i don't know what you had, but i've never had an experience like that with any of the protectors i've used, die cut or manually cut.

i like protectors but i'm kind of spoiled now that they are often available with screw holes, or at least some screw holes. but with this one, it looks like i may be back to the old days of cutting them manually.
which protectors you are ordering that have screw holes cut?

I did find some 4 inch width tape like i mentioned, however they are $$$. if I find one cheaper may try it.
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Old 09-01-2017, 09:35 AM
  #5270  
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Originally Posted by builthatch
is there a chassis protector out there for the sct that has die cut screw holes?
Tbone skid plates , front and back help
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Old 09-01-2017, 12:14 PM
  #5271  
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I used this chassis protector and it lasted 4 outdoor races before I removed it to get to some screws. I know it costs more than the mil pipe tape idea, which is great by the way, but it looks cool and it got a few laughs from the corner marshals as they flipped my truck back on it's wheels.
ONE RC CAR 1:10 Chassis Skin 12mil- OR ONE 18MIL OUTDOOR skin-Flipped 2.0 | eBay

What issues were people having with the nerf bar covers?
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Old 09-01-2017, 02:24 PM
  #5272  
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Originally Posted by Josey5K
Only thing I would add is you're gonna need maybe 3 rattle cans in each color. I think you should always buy extra paint (for anything you're painting). I haven't done a short course body in less than 8 (3 oz.) cans.
Whaaat? How? I use at MOST a total of 150ml (~5oz?) for a two-color short course body, but may even be half that if it's just black If I had to use 20+ oz I'd rather drive with an unpainted body
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Old 09-01-2017, 08:26 PM
  #5273  
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Originally Posted by tvih
Whaaat? How? I use at MOST a total of 150ml (~5oz?) for a two-color short course body, but may even be half that if it's just black If I had to use 20+ oz I'd rather drive with an unpainted body
It don't covers up nothin' good here in CO! That's science. The body on my SC5M still weighs under 300g trimmed (I like the Tundra body).

Also I use at least 4 colors for whatever reason, then promptly destroy the outside of the body's looks.

There's currently 9 cans (black, metallic red & white) I'm looking at under my tv for the next one I do. Luckily I can get paint cheaper, but it's still pricey @ $4 per can for Tamiya colors. Duratrax seems to cover way better. Going a bit simpler w/ colors but a bit crazy w/ masking. Used to paint graffiti as a yoot so I don't bat an eye at way-too complex schemes w/ limited palette.

Airbrush seems like a good idea but I was looking at setups in the $300 range. I'm really into paint again & the thought of spraying on liquid mask makes me smile inside.

I've spent easily $130 on rattle cans this year. Crikey!
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Old 09-01-2017, 08:40 PM
  #5274  
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Originally Posted by Cain
which protectors you are ordering that have screw holes cut?
i had always cut my own holes for certain holes when using associated sheets or whatever was out at a given time, but i have two from rcdecals with all holes cut and then one from another company that has SOME holes cut - i can't remember where i got it though.

that's why i was thinking maybe someone did one like that for the 410.3 but i haven't found one yet.

i agree on the tbone bumpers helping as skids since the chassis areas they protect often get worn out the fastest. i have a couple trucks with tbone stuff on them and it has worked out well, but, i still prefer combining with a nice quality protector.

i guess it's back to cutting my own holes! life goes on.

Last edited by builthatch; 09-05-2017 at 10:22 AM.
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Old 09-05-2017, 09:37 AM
  #5275  
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I cut chassis protectors out of a sheet of carbon fiber looking vinyl from AutoZone. It's 5 or 6 in wide and the adhesive is weatherproof. Its easy enough to trace out the screw holes with an xacto once you have it stuck on. I usually put it on over the screws, and just cut them out as I need them.

It's easy enough to do that I make my daughters make their own.
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Old 09-05-2017, 10:23 AM
  #5276  
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Originally Posted by Teknoval
I cut chassis protectors out of a sheet of carbon fiber looking vinyl from AutoZone. It's 5 or 6 in wide and the adhesive is weatherproof. Its easy enough to trace out the screw holes with an xacto once you have it stuck on. I usually put it on over the screws, and just cut them out as I need them.

It's easy enough to do that I make my daughters make their own.
thanks. that's what i did for years using the associated plain sheets. i'm a very exacting person so the less i can take off my plate where i will dwell on precision, the better lol.

thanks for the recommendation.
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Old 09-09-2017, 09:21 AM
  #5277  
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Is it just on my side or is the petitrc site , set up sheet page down? I see about 20 listings , but they all have blank set up sheets.
Edit, just my side, ipad. Checked the site on my phone and the site is fine.
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Old 09-09-2017, 05:07 PM
  #5278  
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I gave up on chassis sheets +1 to the Tbone skid plates!
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Old 09-11-2017, 07:08 AM
  #5279  
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Originally Posted by a1
Is it just on my side or is the petitrc site , set up sheet page down? I see about 20 listings , but they all have blank set up sheets.
Edit, just my side, ipad. Checked the site on my phone and the site is fine.
There is an app for the icrap's that you have to download, I think it's a acrobat reader or something to that effect.
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Old 09-13-2017, 06:46 PM
  #5280  
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does anyone run the overdrive setup for outdoor. I am thinking it would be helpful for the tracks i have been running at. But I am not sure what ring and pinion I need. Can anybody help with some part numbers
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