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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 04-22-2015, 06:29 PM   #481
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So my kit is on the way. Not sure if I want to sell it or build it lol.....got a itch for 2we buggy all of a sudden
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Old 04-22-2015, 06:32 PM   #482
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Originally Posted by trojanjoe1 View Post
So my kit is on the way. Not sure if I want to sell it or build it lol.....got a itch for 2we buggy all of a sudden
On its way from where?
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Old 04-22-2015, 06:38 PM   #483
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I preordered it...just paid for it 30mins ago. Form amainhobbies
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Old 04-22-2015, 07:28 PM   #484
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I ordered my kit today from AbsoluteHobbyz and it's on it's way. Should be here Fri. I don't know how many they have, but they said if you can add it to the cart, they have it in stock. Used coupon code WHH06AHZ and got $24 off. There may be a better coupon out there. Not as much as Tower, but it's on it's way.
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Old 04-22-2015, 07:33 PM   #485
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Ok. Looking at the set up on the used truck I bought I have came across a question. I have the following diff/motor mount . Is it beneficial to upgrade to another??







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Old 04-22-2015, 09:20 PM   #486
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Originally Posted by Brandon Powell View Post
Ok. Looking at the set up on the used truck I bought I have came across a question. I have the following diff/motor mount . Is it beneficial to upgrade to
You may appreciate the new split diff option, which is TKR5261. That is purely better in convenience for diff fluid changes and maintenance. For the motor mount, you may wish to grab the LCG version to drop the motor closer to the chassis, which is TKR5212. This can let you hold more corner speed without traction rolling, and is more beneficial the more traction your track has.
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Old 04-23-2015, 06:51 AM   #487
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As for the hex issue, is there a performance benefit to the new hex design over the replacement alloys used?

Just curious if there was as reason tekno went that route instead of just including the ones people have been purchasing.
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Old 04-23-2015, 06:53 AM   #488
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As for the hex issue, is there a performance benefit to the new hex design over the replacement alloys used?

Just curious if there was as reason tekno went that route instead of just including the ones people have been purchasing.
Tekno tried to include as many critical improvements without increasing the cost
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Old 04-23-2015, 06:54 AM   #489
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Thank you for the heads up on Absolute Hobbies having some .3s in stock. I'll have mine in 3 days. They have 1 more left.
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Old 04-23-2015, 06:59 AM   #490
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Originally Posted by kyleman7 View Post
Tekno tried to include as many critical improvements without increasing the cost
This is primarily the reason. They wanted to include better, more reliable hexes, while still maintaining the original price.
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Old 04-23-2015, 07:11 AM   #491
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This is primarily the reason. They wanted to include better, more reliable hexes, while still maintaining the original price.
pricewise for the hexes that pretty good in comparison to the cnc'd ones. Don't have a problem personally with how they are with the set screw as its just to hold them still I am assuming.

Do you guys think they may be made more durable if they didn't "lighten" them, just made them a regular hex?
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Old 04-23-2015, 12:03 PM   #492
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Just napped the last one at Absolute!
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Old 04-23-2015, 12:55 PM   #493
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
The tekno drivers look cool, but I don't see a pass thru option on the handle which I would want, especially at that price.
The TKR1101 large handles have a pass-through hole. I'm really impressed by the quality of the 2.5mm ball driver I bought so I will buy others to make a matched set. I can't vouch for the small handles since I don't have any of those yet, but if they don't, you could buy the shanks and the large handles separately to mix and match if you want your most popular drivers like 2.0 and 2.5 to have the holes
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Old 04-23-2015, 01:43 PM   #494
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Finally finished my build.

Seems to be very difficult to install the spacers (0,1mm thick) of the differentials. Ended up with:
1 on the gear side, one on the case side for front diff, 1 on the case side for rear diff.

Found some mistakes in the manual:

1. Screws that build the endpoint of steering are not mentioned but are in the bag
2. Rear shock build ist named "front shock build" (later on that page it is rear..)
3. Bottom screws for steering posts are to long (M4 x 6mm may be right)
4. Rear axles have to many play, shimmed it with 0,3mm spacer outside

Nr. 3 is the only real error in the boxe´s bags, very good. Tekno boys, you got my respect!!!
Everything went together easyly, nothing was missing or does not fit (ecept .3.).

Thinking of installing the elektronics i mentioned a lack of weight on the batterie side or to many parts on the right side:

Batterie: 300g left side
Right side: motor 260g, servo 70g, reciever and transponder 30g, controller 80g, plus wires etc. total: ~450g

I will use: Tenshock SC 411 4600kv, LRP IX8, Sanwa SRG BR, Sanwa 451, AMB.

But: What a heavy cow this car is. Got a new perspective on my SC 10 4x4, which is a rubber cow, but less weight.

Now i know why the tecno guys need 5000mah in a 5 min race while i took only 1800mah out of the battery in the same race (2 rounds less for me, because i am to slow)
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Old 04-23-2015, 03:01 PM   #495
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FAO View Post
Finally finished my build.

Seems to be very difficult to install the spacers (0,1mm thick) of the differentials. Ended up with:
1 on the gear side, one on the case side for front diff, 1 on the case side for rear diff.

Found some mistakes in the manual:

1. Screws that build the endpoint of steering are not mentioned but are in the bag
2. Rear shock build ist named "front shock build" (later on that page it is rear..)
3. Bottom screws for steering posts are to long (M4 x 6mm may be right)
4. Rear axles have to many play, shimmed it with 0,3mm spacer outside

Nr. 3 is the only real error in the boxe´s bags, very good. Tekno boys, you got my respect!!!
Everything went together easyly, nothing was missing or does not fit (ecept .3.).

Thinking of installing the elektronics i mentioned a lack of weight on the batterie side or to many parts on the right side:

Batterie: 300g left side
Right side: motor 260g, servo 70g, reciever and transponder 30g, controller 80g, plus wires etc. total: ~450g

I will use: Tenshock SC 411 4600kv, LRP IX8, Sanwa SRG BR, Sanwa 451, AMB.

But: What a heavy cow this car is. Got a new perspective on my SC 10 4x4, which is a rubber cow, but less weight.

Now i know why the tecno guys need 5000mah in a 5 min race while i took only 1800mah out of the battery in the same race (2 rounds less for me, because i am to slow)
What is the total weight of your truck without the battery?
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