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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 04-22-2015, 10:21 AM   #466
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Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
Okay, I have the new kit coming. I have a question about droop. I can set this up pretty easy on my touring car. I get the ride height. Then I lift the car until the tires begin to lift and get the chassis height. This height minus my ride height gives me droop.

When dealing with offroad, everyone specifies droop with shock length. I always assume that is the maximum shock length, fully extended before you put it on the car. That can't be right. You can't control that. Is this the maximum length once you put it on the car? You can modify this with the droop screws.

Also, all my offroad cars seem to have a lot more droop than the front end (lot more movement before wheels lift off the floor). Is that the case for most offroad cars?
Another issue with measuring shock length, how do you a droop comparison of front verses rear?
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Old 04-22-2015, 10:32 AM   #467
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Has anyone thrown this truck on a scale yet? How much does it weigh?
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Old 04-22-2015, 10:45 AM   #468
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Originally Posted by ezlight View Post
For those that have built this truck, anyone else having an issue with the screws to secure the steering links to the akerman bar? Both mine the heads were soft, and stripped before ever getting even close to being snug...still had a couple mm's to go. Ended up using 2 sets of pliers to snug them up. And yes before you ask, the bit was snug before starting the screws on both of them, I triple checked looking at the second one after having the first one happen. Second one did the same thing. It's on and where she needs to be, but it's going to suck if I ever feel the need to change that position.
wonder if tekno got a bad batch of screws?
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Old 04-22-2015, 10:48 AM   #469
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wonder if tekno got a bad batch of screws?
It's possible, this is as far as I've gotten into the build, and have only ran into the issue here. All the rest of the screws were fine. I'll continues my build tonight.
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Old 04-22-2015, 10:52 AM   #470
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Originally Posted by Hoese37 View Post
Yes most of the time you measure droop by shocks with them installed on the car, but you can put droop into the shocks by putting internal limiters on the shock shaft below the piston. That method is commonly used in 1/10 buggies and stadium trucks.
And to be more accurate. After you do one side of the vehicle, do it the other side the touring car method. The touring car method is much more accurate. Just use the setup side as the reference point for measuring from your board to the bottom of some known point out on the hub.
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Old 04-22-2015, 12:51 PM   #471
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i had to order a couple new tekno hex drivers. my 5 year old losi set just isn't up to par anymore. diff screws are almost impossible without a good hex. I rounded 2 of them and had to stop..hopefully ill get them by fri or sat..I am dead in the water without a good 2.0mm
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Old 04-22-2015, 01:24 PM   #472
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Originally Posted by Evo X Revo View Post
i had to order a couple new tekno hex drivers. my 5 year old losi set just isn't up to par anymore. diff screws are almost impossible without a good hex. I rounded 2 of them and had to stop..hopefully ill get them by fri or sat..I am dead in the water without a good 2.0mm
One thing I did when my AE sets "2mm" was getting worn was to cut off the worn part with a dremel and it works like a new tip since had how much extra there already shaped.

The tekno drivers look cool, but I don't see a pass thru option on the handle which I would want, especially at that price.
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Old 04-22-2015, 01:42 PM   #473
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Tap the holes first. It makes a huge difference and strengthens the connection as well.
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Old 04-22-2015, 02:12 PM   #474
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The tekno drivers look cool, but I don't see a pass thru option on the handle which I would want, especially at that price.
What do you mean pass thru?

I managed to pick up the Large handle and 3 tips in different sizes for 38$ shipped, wasn't to bad. only had one handle or i would of got 2 more.

running them thru first helps for sure, still need a good hex to snug them good in the end..
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Old 04-22-2015, 02:22 PM   #475
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What do you mean pass thru?
..
A hole in the handle that allows you to run another driver through it or something else straight for more torque. I pop free quite a bit of screws that are hard to move by the hand that way:

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Old 04-22-2015, 02:31 PM   #476
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I won't know till i get it and nothing is mentioned about it, but the pic shows a hole towards the end. I'm assuming the set screw can't be seen in the pic on the other end. never seen a set screw at the end of the handle.

http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...3/2.5_REGs.jpg
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Old 04-22-2015, 02:33 PM   #477
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Default Split Steel hex pics

Here is a picture of the steel hex issue. I only had one split.
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Old 04-22-2015, 02:41 PM   #478
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You dont have to tighten the set screws very tight on the hex, they just need to keep the pin from falling out when you remove the wheel.
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Old 04-22-2015, 05:50 PM   #479
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Those type of hexes, ones with a set screw hitting the axle, are junk. They create a pressure point on the stub axle. This creates a weak point that can lead to breaking stub axles. It happened to me on my old SCRT10 a few years back. I will only use the clamping style aluminum hexes or the stock plastic. Just my oppinion.
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Old 04-22-2015, 07:19 PM   #480
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Originally Posted by Terra Rover View Post
Those type of hexes, ones with a set screw hitting the axle, are junk. They create a pressure point on the stub axle. This creates a weak point that can lead to breaking stub axles. It happened to me on my old SCRT10 a few years back. I will only use the clamping style aluminum hexes or the stock plastic. Just my oppinion.
Same reason we don't reccomend using set screws on solid carbide boring bars, creates a fracture point.
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