219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
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04-22-2015, 09:21 AM
#466
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Okay, I have the new kit coming. I have a question about droop. I can set this up pretty easy on my touring car. I get the ride height. Then I lift the car until the tires begin to lift and get the chassis height. This height minus my ride height gives me droop.
When dealing with offroad, everyone specifies droop with shock length. I always assume that is the maximum shock length, fully extended before you put it on the car. That can't be right. You can't control that. Is this the maximum length once you put it on the car? You can modify this with the droop screws.
Also, all my offroad cars seem to have a lot more droop than the front end (lot more movement before wheels lift off the floor). Is that the case for most offroad cars?
When dealing with offroad, everyone specifies droop with shock length. I always assume that is the maximum shock length, fully extended before you put it on the car. That can't be right. You can't control that. Is this the maximum length once you put it on the car? You can modify this with the droop screws.
Also, all my offroad cars seem to have a lot more droop than the front end (lot more movement before wheels lift off the floor). Is that the case for most offroad cars?
04-22-2015, 09:45 AM
#468
For those that have built this truck, anyone else having an issue with the screws to secure the steering links to the akerman bar? Both mine the heads were soft, and stripped before ever getting even close to being snug...still had a couple mm's to go. Ended up using 2 sets of pliers to snug them up. And yes before you ask, the bit was snug before starting the screws on both of them, I triple checked looking at the second one after having the first one happen. Second one did the same thing. It's on and where she needs to be, but it's going to suck if I ever feel the need to change that position.
04-22-2015, 09:48 AM
#469
Tech Master
04-22-2015, 09:52 AM
#470
And to be more accurate. After you do one side of the vehicle, do it the other side the touring car method. The touring car method is much more accurate. Just use the setup side as the reference point for measuring from your board to the bottom of some known point out on the hub.
04-22-2015, 11:51 AM
#471
i had to order a couple new tekno hex drivers. my 5 year old losi set just isn't up to par anymore. diff screws are almost impossible without a good hex. I rounded 2 of them and had to stop..hopefully ill get them by fri or sat..I am dead in the water without a good 2.0mm
04-22-2015, 12:24 PM
#472
i had to order a couple new tekno hex drivers. my 5 year old losi set just isn't up to par anymore. diff screws are almost impossible without a good hex. I rounded 2 of them and had to stop..hopefully ill get them by fri or sat..I am dead in the water without a good 2.0mm
The tekno drivers look cool, but I don't see a pass thru option on the handle which I would want, especially at that price.
04-22-2015, 01:12 PM
#474
I managed to pick up the Large handle and 3 tips in different sizes for 38$ shipped, wasn't to bad. only had one handle or i would of got 2 more.
running them thru first helps for sure, still need a good hex to snug them good in the end..
04-22-2015, 01:31 PM
#476
I won't know till i get it and nothing is mentioned about it, but the pic shows a hole towards the end. I'm assuming the set screw can't be seen in the pic on the other end. never seen a set screw at the end of the handle.
http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...3/2.5_REGs.jpg
http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...3/2.5_REGs.jpg
04-22-2015, 04:50 PM
#479
Those type of hexes, ones with a set screw hitting the axle, are junk. They create a pressure point on the stub axle. This creates a weak point that can lead to breaking stub axles. It happened to me on my old SCRT10 a few years back. I will only use the clamping style aluminum hexes or the stock plastic. Just my oppinion.
04-22-2015, 06:19 PM
#480
Tech Regular
iTrader: (73)
Those type of hexes, ones with a set screw hitting the axle, are junk. They create a pressure point on the stub axle. This creates a weak point that can lead to breaking stub axles. It happened to me on my old SCRT10 a few years back. I will only use the clamping style aluminum hexes or the stock plastic. Just my oppinion.