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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 01-30-2017, 02:44 PM   #4696
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Originally Posted by Tbuggy View Post
I didn't even know that was an option. So are they the smaller sct wheels but for 17mm hubs? Being I would have to get wheels and tires only that may save a couple bucks. Just took a peak at DE website and they aren't overpriced either!

It seems most everything in this hobby is purchased online (for me anyways). The local hobby shop here is fairly limited, especially with tekno stuff.

Thanks for the tips!

And as far as bodies go...what brands fit a tekno or do they all with some trimming and such?
are you looking to be SCT size legal?

If so, you may want to look into the M2C 17mm conversion for your truck.

I never popped a 12mm hex on my trucks, but the 17mm wheel hex is more durable from what others have said who have. When I ran the Team Durango DESC10 it was default 17mm and they worked great. If you see someone clearing out DESC10 (NOT the DESC410) wheels, those would be what you want.
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Old 01-30-2017, 03:03 PM   #4697
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I think the haze is dissipating and its all becoming a little more clear now. So I don't technically need to change out the 17mm hubs to convert it to the 410.3, correct? And actually doing so may be more of an down grade from what I already have by the sounds of it.

Then as Cain just asked me, "do I want it be a legal size sct?", I guess I do. Not sure that I will be competing any time soon but may want to have that window open for future. In order to be legal do I just need to run the smaller sct wheels?

Man I got a lot to learn!
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Old 01-31-2017, 03:23 AM   #4698
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Originally Posted by Tbuggy View Post
I think the haze is dissipating and its all becoming a little more clear now. So I don't technically need to change out the 17mm hubs to convert it to the 410.3, correct? And actually doing so may be more of an down grade from what I already have by the sounds of it.

Then as Cain just asked me, "do I want it be a legal size sct?", I guess I do. Not sure that I will be competing any time soon but may want to have that window open for future. In order to be legal do I just need to run the smaller sct wheels?

Man I got a lot to learn!
You need the Tekno SCT stub axles and then either the Tekno 12mm hexes and any normal 0 offset SCT wheel and tire of choice...or the M2C 17mm SCT hexes and the DE 17mm 0 offset borrego wheels and tires of choice. Leaving the SL stubs and hexes on will make your vehicle WAY too wide for SCT and tires won't fit under normal SCT bodies, they'll stick out all kinds of funny and rub badly, no matter what wheel/tire combo you choose.
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Old 01-31-2017, 05:36 AM   #4699
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or you can keep the SL stub axles and use Traxxas 17mm hex's. I have done this and it works well. It might be a couple mm's wider than ROAR rules allow but won't make a difference in club racing with non-ROAR rules.
Tekno SCT410 Thread

Not 100% sure this will work on the .3- I still have the OG SCT410.
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Old 01-31-2017, 07:06 AM   #4700
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or the M2C 17mm SCT hexes and the DE 17mm 0 offset borrego wheels and tires of choice. Leaving the SL stubs and hexes on will make your vehicle WAY too wide for SCT and tires won't fit under normal SCT bodies, they'll stick out all kinds of funny and rub badly, no matter what wheel/tire combo you choose.
I would have thought the Borrego wheels would have been fine at 0 offset. I know you know your stuff, but are you sure just slapping those on will make it too wide?

Can it be done with adjusting the hinge pins inward?
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Old 01-31-2017, 07:20 AM   #4701
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Originally Posted by ezlight View Post
I would have thought the Borrego wheels would have been fine at 0 offset. I know you know your stuff, but are you sure just slapping those on will make it too wide?

Can it be done with adjusting the hinge pins inward?
The Borrego 17mm wheels aren't what's making it too wide. Running them on the SL stub axles and 17mm hexes make it too wide, as they make the hex full eBuggy width instead of SCT width.

If you use the Borrego 17mm wheels on the M2C 17mm adapters on the SCT stub axles, then it'll still be normal SCT legal width.

The key is that you need to switch to the SCT stub axles and a hex for those, rather than using the SL stub axles.

As for just adjusting hinge pins, you can move those a couple mm, but the difference of a normal SCT hex location to an SL hex location is about 8-10mm wider per side if I remember correctly.
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Old 01-31-2017, 07:47 AM   #4702
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Basically, this is what you have with the EB48SL:



versus the standard 12mm SCT hex:



hope that helps (I am visual too )
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Old 01-31-2017, 07:50 AM   #4703
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justpoet is correct, to be legal or close to it with 17mm hex's you have to use the M2C or Traxxas hex's. The SL hex adapters are WAY to wide to use. 1/8 buggy width rules are much wider than SCT so that is why the SL adapters are wider.
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Old 01-31-2017, 09:49 AM   #4704
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Originally Posted by justpoet View Post
The Borrego 17mm wheels aren't what's making it too wide. Running them on the SL stub axles and 17mm hexes make it too wide, as they make the hex full eBuggy width instead of SCT width.

If you use the Borrego 17mm wheels on the M2C 17mm adapters on the SCT stub axles, then it'll still be normal SCT legal width.

The key is that you need to switch to the SCT stub axles and a hex for those, rather than using the SL stub axles.

As for just adjusting hinge pins, you can move those a couple mm, but the difference of a normal SCT hex location to an SL hex location is about 8-10mm wider per side if I remember correctly.
Gotcha. My mind was elsewhere on that. I assumed the SL had the same stub axles as the ebuggy\truggy and the hex was flush to the hub. (I've never touched an SL)

The images that Cain shared below made me realize my error in thinking. I didn't realize how far out they pushed the hex.

Can you not just put the EB Hex's on the SL axle? Or is the axle different thickness?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
Basically, this is what you have with the EB48SL:



versus the standard 12mm SCT hex:



hope that helps (I am visual too )
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Old 01-31-2017, 11:16 AM   #4705
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you are correct. The EB stub axles are larger diameter compared to the SL/SCT stub axles. The SL axles are the same diameter as the SCT axles but are made like the EB axles-smooth and hollow. the SCT axles are solid and have threads for the wheel nut.
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Old 01-31-2017, 12:01 PM   #4706
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I was just peaking at the tekno website and they have a common question section with this question included. I found a list of parts needed according to tekno.

With that and those comparison pics Cain posted I know what I need now.

Now, its just wether I want to go with 12mm or 17mm at this point and I think 17mm seems to be the more durable options.

Thank you for all the awesome responses!
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Old 01-31-2017, 12:14 PM   #4707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tbuggy View Post
I was just peaking at the tekno website and they have a common question section with this question included. I found a list of parts needed according to tekno.

With that and those comparison pics Cain posted I know what I need now.

Now, its just wether I want to go with 12mm or 17mm at this point and I think 17mm seems to be the more durable options.

Thank you for all the awesome responses!
Thank you for the question. Some would call me a tekno fiend, and I learned something today about tekno's!!!
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Old 01-31-2017, 10:00 PM   #4708
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I have a question about the new steering components that are available.

The TKR 8104 kit comes with the new bell cranks and ackemrman top plate. It also comes with a center diff top plate....why? What is the difference in this plate and how does it affect steering?
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Old 01-31-2017, 10:18 PM   #4709
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I have a question about the new steering components that are available.

The TKR 8104 kit comes with the new bell cranks and ackemrman top plate. It also comes with a center diff top plate....why? What is the difference in this plate and how does it affect steering?
That was just part of the plastics package all along, the top plates came together, so it still is that way. There is no change to geometry from either the front or center top plates. The front top plate is slightly different, but again not in a functional geometry or handling way. It doesn't have the reinforcing ridges on the bottom anymore, that we sometimes had to cut or grind off if the steering rubbed on them. AKA, now it is more slap together and forget it, rather than having to carefully check everything.
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Old 02-01-2017, 08:25 AM   #4710
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Finally about to get mine running. I'm planning on a maclan 3500kv motor and a graupner genius 120r +t esc. I'm going to get a cue servo around .1s and 20kg of torque.

I'll be running on a dirt track low traction with a 100ft straight and a carpet track with a 40 to 50ft straight. Does this setup sound sufficient?
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