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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 10-05-2016, 09:45 AM   #4111
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And on another note... what are some of yall's diff fluid weights? They redid the track where I run and there are some tight turns (mostly 1:10th buggys there) and I have shat for on power steering... I was thinking of 3-7-3 and seeing what happens. This will be the first time I've worked with diff fluid for tuning. Also reading up on what camber and toe on the front do for increasing turning...
The thicker your front diff fluid is the more on power steering you will have (and less off power) and the center diff is similar too. If you're too thick in the center diff the truck will want to over rotate in the middle of the corner as soon as you start to apply throttle.

I like to play with my rear wheelbase and rear toe to fine tune on throttle steering. Longer wheelbase will have more on throttle steering, and less rear toe will also have more on throttle steering. (the opposite is also true with both of these, go the other way and the rear end will be more locked in on throttle)
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Old 10-05-2016, 01:36 PM   #4112
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The thicker your front diff fluid is the more on power steering you will have (and less off power) and the center diff is similar too. If you're too thick in the center diff the truck will want to over rotate in the middle of the corner as soon as you start to apply throttle.

I like to play with my rear wheelbase and rear toe to fine tune on throttle steering. Longer wheelbase will have more on throttle steering, and less rear toe will also have more on throttle steering. (the opposite is also true with both of these, go the other way and the rear end will be more locked in on throttle)
Thanks man... I'll give son of that a try... :Tire:
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Old 10-06-2016, 05:30 PM   #4113
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I am running green front/pink rear, 27 ride height, and stock oils currently in my sct, and it is wanting to front flip going through a slow whoops section. anyone have a setup sheet for sct? I use joe bornhorsts eb/nb setups but don't have anything for sct, aside from stock. I know without more info, i can't get much help, but for a outdoor dusty hard clay track i could use some help.
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Old 10-06-2016, 05:51 PM   #4114
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What all have you tried? not just along the lines of someone else's setup sheet, but you personally when trying to work out the problem.
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Old 10-06-2016, 05:58 PM   #4115
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Currently I haven't tried much yet, the track has been very inconsistent since it dries up soooo fast in the florida heat. We water it when we get there around 11:30am, but by 1pm its completely dry, and doesn't hold any moisture until after 5pm. I also run my EB, so I haven't been getting much runtime on the track when its wet to really test and adjust my setup. I changed the springs, and I adjusted the ride height, thats about it so far. I haven't changed any oils (diff and shock are stock). I was hoping to find a setup sheet to try and see if it helps fix the issue, and go from there. I've heard issues with the stock anti-squat, and some other box setup issues.

If this hurricane doesn't rain out the track this weekend, I am going to spend more time trying to setup my cars instead of running laps. I would like to get shock/diff oils changed before hitting the track though.
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Old 10-06-2016, 06:43 PM   #4116
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No one else is going to give nor will you find that magic setup sheet for exactly what and how you're running,. While I am still a total noob with all this.. each time I go to the track I try tweaking something a little bit here and there and seeing what it does regarding whatever issue I'm having. Run a few laps and say.. "that sure didn't help" or 'that works better".
I've learned a lot from the older cats there as well.. I really get into working on my buggy and seeing what all the different settings we have do.. only way you're gonna learn and understand it all for yourself is trial and error...

But you have a start there in your post... change your shock oil weight and see what happens... change the antisquat and see what happens... shoot.. take your sway bars off!..
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Old 10-06-2016, 06:50 PM   #4117
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I know setups vary from track to track, person to person, but i know that the rear end slapping was a issue with the box setup, thats all im looking for, is a common starting point for the sct. like with the eb, there are popular setups that are a good starting point to go from.


but yeah, i guess ill just trial and error it. sucks cause I only have 7-8hrs a week at the track on sunday, so I was wanting to get oils and stuff somewhat setup before getting there haha. there needs to be more time in the day!!!!
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Old 10-06-2016, 07:08 PM   #4118
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I am runing green springs all around 15/15/10 in the diffs 40 front 37.5 rear oil our track is indoor smooth, i just kept making 1 change at a time till I got the truck to drive like I wanted and I am always trying something new but seem to come back to that set up
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Old 10-06-2016, 07:08 PM   #4119
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Changing the antisquat is two screws.. you can do the oils at home. Changing a pair out at the track will take you about 30 min maybe. I've found a lot of these adjustments are made two screws at a time...

Have fun out there bro!..
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Old 10-06-2016, 07:13 PM   #4120
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Originally Posted by Tim Mcpherson View Post
I am runing green springs all around 15/15/10 in the diffs 40 front 37.5 rear oil our track is indoor smooth, i just kept making 1 change at a time till I got the truck to drive like I wanted and I am always trying something new but seem to come back to that set up
Changing diff oils is something I'll be doing here soon.. ordered a few different weights... I never actually built any yet as I bought it from a member here artr...

If it turns out easier and quicker than I think it might be something I'll be able to do at the track to hone in my tuning...

You seem to be running higher weight then I think I've seen put up around here. What areas does it help in?
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Old 10-06-2016, 07:16 PM   #4121
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I had all pink, but swapped the front pink to my EB, and put the stock green back on. ive never tried oil that thick, i ran 7/7/5 on my eb, and 7/5/3. I have issues with never having enough steering, even if i slow down enough i feel that it doesn't want to cut in, only if i wipe the rear around it will turn sharply.

thank you for your response and setup tim
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Old 10-06-2016, 07:19 PM   #4122
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higher diffs helps it not to act as twitchy on a track that has decent traction and just helps it calm it down some and easier to drive but our track by the mid to afternoon traction comes up good and that set up works well, it could be difreant on a outsoor dusty track
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Old 10-06-2016, 07:20 PM   #4123
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Changing the antisquat is two screws.. you can do the oils at home. Changing a pair out at the track will take you about 30 min maybe. I've found a lot of these adjustments are made two screws at a time...

Have fun out there bro!..
yeah changing the pills is quick, diff oils i don't want to change at the track, or shock oil. most adjustments at the track are iffy since I don't have a pit board or a flat surface, so i can't re-calibrate my camber or ride height very easy. I am having a blast running my tekno's, still try to get them dialed! the EB has felt great the past few weeks, now I am working on the sct. It generally handles well, aside from front flipping on the whoops and wanting to 360 when off throttle at the end of the straight, but that is fixed when the track is wet... the front flipping is my main concern.
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Old 10-06-2016, 07:23 PM   #4124
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YW, I only run that thick diff in sct my NB and EB is 7/7/5 pink fronts and red rear i have had to take some steering out of my buggies. i think difreant driving styles comes into play as well on setups
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Old 10-06-2016, 07:25 PM   #4125
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Originally Posted by deceit View Post
I had all pink, but swapped the front pink to my EB, and put the stock green back on. ive never tried oil that thick, i ran 7/7/5 on my eb, and 7/5/3. I have issues with never having enough steering, even if i slow down enough i feel that it doesn't want to cut in, only if i wipe the rear around it will turn sharply.

thank you for your response and setup tim
I was having that same issue.. take your front sway bar off.. helped me.. and make sure you're not limiting your steering throw at all...
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