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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 09-27-2016, 06:53 PM   #4066
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So I picked up a used 410.3 here and am in the process of rebuilding the shocks and I have a little issue. I am pretty familiar with how these type of shocks work but I am having binding issues with the o-rings and the shaft.

I just took a front shock and dumped the oil out. With no oil other than the residual left the shaft was nice and smooth. I removed the bottom cap to inspect the o-rings, I did not pull them out. I then put the bottom cap right back on finger tight and the shock shaft saw very hard to move in and out and almost grinding. I then turned the bottom cap about 3/4 to a full turn loose and it was nice and smooth.

I already rebuild the rear shocks and put brand new o-rings in but had the same issue with them. It seemed a little better on those when I used shock oil on the o-rings before assembly but it still didn't feel as smooth as they were before.

So, do you guys run those bottom caps a little loose?
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Old 09-27-2016, 07:05 PM   #4067
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A little grease or "Green Slime" helps lube the o rings. Yes, over tightening will compress the o rings too much.
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Old 09-27-2016, 07:07 PM   #4068
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The first one I rebuilt I used green slime but it was bound up bad. I took it apart and cleaned the rings up and then used 30wt shock oil and it seemed better.

So when you say over tightening, does finger tight count? Is it comon to snug it up and then back off a bit until they are smooth?
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Old 09-27-2016, 07:37 PM   #4069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skinned View Post
I just got a new 410.1 (cheap) to race outdoors...what should i expect to upgrade or change? to be able to run with the .3's?

Aluminum A block is a must. I changed over to all carbon fiber shock towers because I kept bending my rear ones.
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Old 09-27-2016, 08:16 PM   #4070
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riflebuilder View Post
Aluminum A block is a must. I changed over to all carbon fiber shock towers because I kept bending my rear ones.
I 2nd that one!... just broke mine yesterday.. glad the place had a set of composites in stock or my day would have been cut waaay short.. aluminum one ordered when I got home...
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Old 09-27-2016, 08:39 PM   #4071
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http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr6051-...conical-8x1-3/
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr6003b...zed-2pcs-copy/

The prices are not right though. $24,199.99 must mean $24.99.
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Old 09-28-2016, 04:41 AM   #4072
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riflebuilder View Post
Aluminum A block is a must. I changed over to all carbon fiber shock towers because I kept bending my rear ones.

For the .1, F/R towers for the EB48 are strong. I run them with the MC2 rear brace. Ended my bent/broken tower probs.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...2&I=LXCUSH&P=K

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...2&I=LXCUSG&P=K
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Old 09-28-2016, 07:57 AM   #4073
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DEADWright View Post
For the .1, F/R towers for the EB48 are strong. I run them with the MC2 rear brace. Ended my bent/broken tower probs.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...2&I=LXCUSH&P=K

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...2&I=LXCUSG&P=K
I believe the Eb48 rear towers are different than our sct towers though!!
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Old 09-28-2016, 12:14 PM   #4074
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^^ Might be different compared to the 410.3. I was commenting for the 410.1
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Old 09-28-2016, 01:14 PM   #4075
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DEADWright View Post
^^ Might be different compared to the 410.3. I was commenting for the 410.1
Are they even the same as the .1?
For sure they are not for the .3
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Old 09-28-2016, 02:12 PM   #4076
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The shock towers are the same between the SCT410.1 and the EB48/48.2. Not sure about either of the .3 models.
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Old 09-28-2016, 02:52 PM   #4077
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This past weekend my Tekin Pro4 HD4300 died on me, the rotor is pretty beat looking... Looks like I can buy a new rotor for $44, which will hopefully fix the problem...

https://www.amazon.com/TEKIN-TT2528-.../dp/B00NE092CK

I'm tempted to try a 1900kv T8, Pro4, or SMC motor on 4s instead of fixing my 2s.... But I know it wouldn't be legal to race that way, although I know some do it anyway (club level obviously).

Any recommendations to fixing this? Get the new Tekin rotor? Try a different motor? Try 4s? Ugh... I hate the strain 2s in SCT is regardless, but I do love my sct... Just wish it did have more power compared to my EB.
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Old 09-28-2016, 07:57 PM   #4078
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lowe's48 View Post
I believe the Eb48 rear towers are different than our sct towers though!!
The eb48.1 rear tower is 1mm thicker than the sct410.1 tower everything else is the same.
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Old 09-29-2016, 06:40 AM   #4079
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There any rumor floating of a .4 yet? We are in need!

Something more balanced for the equipment we actually run now days, such as heavier packs, 550 motors, heavy digital servos. I'm thinking battery hold that can be moved back if need be with less plastic on the rear half for mounting an ESC behind the pack. No need for a ESC mounting plate, etc...
There is no denying the truck is solid, but the weight is killing us competing with the SCTE chassis out there. Just my opinion of course
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Old 09-29-2016, 08:02 PM   #4080
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PZP View Post
There any rumor floating of a .4 yet? We are in need!

Something more balanced for the equipment we actually run now days, such as heavier packs, 550 motors, heavy digital servos. I'm thinking battery hold that can be moved back if need be with less plastic on the rear half for mounting an ESC behind the pack. No need for a ESC mounting plate, etc...
There is no denying the truck is solid, but the weight is killing us competing with the SCTE chassis out there. Just my opinion of course
I think your doing something wrong if your having trouble competing with the losi trucks. We run circles around them in my area. I have both and the tekno is night and day better than the losi. I did the battery mod to mine and added a little weight in the far left rear corner and it is hooked up.
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