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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 09-21-2016, 09:28 AM   #4036
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I wouldn't run them. They were prone to cracking. I don't think they even make them in the right offset for our trucks anymore.
Thanks. I heard that on the cracking. Need a set of M4 Electrons for indoor here in a few weeks and saw a nice used set but they had Rulux wheels. I
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Old 09-21-2016, 05:33 PM   #4037
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What does that esc mod where you move it to the rear look like? Do you have to cut out the rear servo mounts? Do you just mount it to the chassis? How big of an impact does the mod have on the truck -seems like left side will become heavy?

Thanks.
There are a bunch of posts months back that discuss this in detail. Maybe April/May. Found the start below at post 3473.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...hread-232.html

Last edited by JoeRC123; 09-21-2016 at 05:44 PM.
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Old 09-22-2016, 08:53 AM   #4038
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Default SCT 410.3 Ride Height

Hello All,
Please forgive me if Im not following any protocol here but Im new to the site and fairly new back to the hobby. I just got finish building the 410.3 kit and installed wheels and body and noticed that the truck sits lower in the rear everytime i rest it down. The front does not move (seems to be stiffer in front) but the rear always sinks when I rest it down (soft in back). I built the truck according to spec but it still sits where the front is up and the rear is sunk.

At first I thought it was due to me not drilling\reaming out the front axle where the pins go. So I took it apart again and drilled out the axle for the supporting pins to make sure there was no binding there but still the truck does the same thing. The axle moves freely. Does anyone have any suggestions on what this might be???

I configured the truck using the "Vented Stock" for the shocks. Any help would be appreciated.

P.S. All the screws for the ride height under the axles are screwed all the way in and the same thing happens whether the truck is loaded down with batteries or not.

Thx

SCT 410.3
HobbyWing Xerun 4700 setup
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Old 09-23-2016, 03:10 AM   #4039
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Originally Posted by pfrederi View Post
Hello All,
Please forgive me if Im not following any protocol here but Im new to the site and fairly new back to the hobby. I just got finish building the 410.3 kit and installed wheels and body and noticed that the truck sits lower in the rear everytime i rest it down. The front does not move (seems to be stiffer in front) but the rear always sinks when I rest it down (soft in back). I built the truck according to spec but it still sits where the front is up and the rear is sunk.

At first I thought it was due to me not drilling\reaming out the front axle where the pins go. So I took it apart again and drilled out the axle for the supporting pins to make sure there was no binding there but still the truck does the same thing. The axle moves freely. Does anyone have any suggestions on what this might be???

I configured the truck using the "Vented Stock" for the shocks. Any help would be appreciated.

P.S. All the screws for the ride height under the axles are screwed all the way in and the same thing happens whether the truck is loaded down with batteries or not.

Thx

SCT 410.3
HobbyWing Xerun 4700 setup
The stock setup is very soft in the rear, if you download some of the setups from the Tekno website you can get an idea of the spring combinations the team drivers are running and pick one that matches your track. Most of them seem to be running less anti-squat also. I based my setup from Randy C's except my shocks had kit springs and pistons with 30wt oil f/r. It went really well but our track has a couple nasty jumps that if I hit badly it would blow through the rear suspension and slap the chassis, causing it to nose over. I have since put green springs on the back and will be testing them tomorrow.
"screws for the ride height under the axles" sounds like you are describing the droop screws, these don't adjust ride height, the preload collars on top of the shock springs do Screw the rear ones down to 8mm from the shock cap and back the front ones off as far as they'll go and see how it looks.
Hope this helps
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Old 09-23-2016, 04:38 AM   #4040
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Also post a pic of the front end. Maybe something is binding. Do the shocks feel smooth as you compress them?
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Old 09-24-2016, 10:04 AM   #4041
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What's size tires are most of y'all using?.. the stock 12mm or have you upped them to 17mm buggy?...

I ask as the one I picked up already had the 17mm setup but I've been wondering how different the ride is with 12mm...
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Old 09-24-2016, 10:17 AM   #4042
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I'm using the stock 12mm size for my rims and I haven't had an issue in the 20 hours I've used it. The only problems I've had, and twice now, is the front plastic pieces that hold the A-arms to the chassis have broken twice. So I finally upgraded them to the alluminum ones. But the tires will wear out long before the rims become an issue.
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Old 09-24-2016, 10:28 AM   #4043
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I've bven thinking of upgrading those blocks to the aluminum set...

I'm more wondering about ride quality/control on the smaller tires vs larger...
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Old 09-24-2016, 10:34 AM   #4044
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I don't have any other 4wd experience but this Tekno handles SIGNIFICANTLY better than my 2wd TLR 22SCT using the exact same tires. I have a blast driving the Tekno around the track because it just seems to hold like it's on rails where as the 2wd trucks slip around corners and require a lot of tire cleaning to keep the lap times reasonable. I haven't even bothered to clean the tires on the Tekno after many hours of running on a clay track because it just holds so well.
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Old 09-24-2016, 10:48 AM   #4045
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I'll be heading out with some new clay track tires on Monday. Used the knobby badlands style that came with it the last couple times.. I also upped the oil weight all around.. so I'll see how differently it handles..
I've turned it into the SL buggy after seeing how the sct body got in the way the last couple times and the racket it made every time it landed.. I cut the wheelwells higher and the front and rear body way up so it wouldn't contact the bumpers and BAM!! Total improvement in how it ran that last day... since then it's bye bye sct... hello buggy...
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Old 09-24-2016, 05:35 PM   #4046
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Quote:
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I'll be heading out with some new clay track tires on Monday. Used the knobby badlands style that came with it the last couple times.. I also upped the oil weight all around.. so I'll see how differently it handles..
I've turned it into the SL buggy after seeing how the sct body got in the way the last couple times and the racket it made every time it landed.. I cut the wheelwells higher and the front and rear body way up so it wouldn't contact the bumpers and BAM!! Total improvement in how it ran that last day... since then it's bye bye sct... hello buggy...
I'm thinking about cutting the wheel wells on mine since I'm running 17mm with the EB width. When the tires touch the body on the lip of a jump it causes it to nose dive like crazy. I have a EB and NB, so no reason to go SL with it currently.. if i can cut the wheel wells and stop the running then I'd love to keep the 17mm on there, if not it's back to stock. ]:

So cutting didn't help much for you?
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Old 09-25-2016, 02:39 AM   #4047
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I'm thinking about cutting the wheel wells on mine since I'm running 17mm with the EB width. When the tires touch the body on the lip of a jump it causes it to nose dive like crazy. I have a EB and NB, so no reason to go SL with it currently.. if i can cut the wheel wells and stop the running then I'd love to keep the 17mm on there, if not it's back to stock. ]:

So cutting didn't help much for you?
First have you done the battery back mod? Or replaced the chassis with the M2C battery back pan if you don't want to cut anything.
Have you reduced the anti squat considerably if not? Are you running overly soft springs, or not enough pack pistons?

The nose dive issue isn't an issue at all for those who have done these things.
It just blows my mind how many times these things have been said and are done by many pros who run the TEKNO, yet everyone that complains about these things generally don't do them. There is no secret about it. This truck is nose heavy and needs re-balanced to perform correctly on large jumps and rear end plant. The things I said takes care of this
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Old 09-25-2016, 04:49 AM   #4048
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As a race director, I don't allow anyone to run 1/8 scale 17mm rims and tires on a short course truck. If you are bashing and have a bunch of tires already, go for it!! If you are going to run at a track, ask at the track first if they will allow the buggy rims on a truck. They shouldn't (IMO) but if they do you set.
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Old 09-25-2016, 07:20 AM   #4049
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First have you done the battery back mod? Or replaced the chassis with the M2C battery back pan if you don't want to cut anything.
Have you reduced the anti squat considerably if not? Are you running overly soft springs, or not enough pack pistons?

The nose dive issue isn't an issue at all for those who have done these things.
It just blows my mind how many times these things have been said and are done by many pros who run the TEKNO, yet everyone that complains about these things generally don't do them. There is no secret about it. This truck is nose heavy and needs re-balanced to perform correctly on large jumps and rear end plant. The things I said takes care of this

Sorry, the truck is fine with the 12mm wheel hexes, it's when I use the 17mm that I have the nose dive issue from the tires rubbing the body, causing it to brake basically on the lip of a jump. I have SCT tires (not buggy tires) on the 17mm, but it is too wide with that change. I might just switch back to 12mm, I hated the nuts on the 12mm set, so went with 17mm to see how it was.... ><
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Old 09-25-2016, 09:49 AM   #4050
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Sorry, the truck is fine with the 12mm wheel hexes, it's when I use the 17mm that I have the nose dive issue from the tires rubbing the body, causing it to brake basically on the lip of a jump. I have SCT tires (not buggy tires) on the 17mm, but it is too wide with that change. I might just switch back to 12mm, I hated the nuts on the 12mm set, so went with 17mm to see how it was.... ><
What 17mm conversion are you using? M2C or the Traxxas mod? All others will make the overall width too wide even with SCT wheels.
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