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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 07-14-2016, 09:51 AM   #3931
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Ive been running my vtx8 lately so its about the same. Actually, the XR8 is 13g heavier. I'll see how it does.

The only thing with the cap is it limits my motors. I want to try my lrp dyn 10L again (smooth but strong motor) but im going to have a hard time getting it to fit if i ise a cap.
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Old 07-14-2016, 10:29 AM   #3932
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I don't understand what you mean by it limits your motors? The cap pack can be stuffed else were besides where your motor sets. Such as attached to your front brace or hard wired with solid stiff wire like I have done mine which floats it on top of the ESC. Now getting one of those boost packs installed would be much harder, but a small cap pack is a non issue.
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Old 07-16-2016, 02:08 PM   #3933
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Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
Anybody try the HW XR8 on 2S on the 410.3? Just want to make sure the 150A is enough especially running at 7.4v on bec.
I'm using this ESC coupled with the HW 4700. Can't imagine what motor you'd want to run that would need more power than this ESC delivers.

Like Josh L said, very heavy to the right side with this setup, especially with an HV servo. Runs nice other than I have bent a lot of rear shock towers. A more skilled driver might not have that issue. Trying the 5mm carbon fiber rear shock tower now. Racing tomorrow. I'll see how it holds up.

Got the XR8+ to try out the "coast" feature. Only ESC that had it at the time. Worthless, at least in 1/10th scale. Oh well, live and learn...
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Old 07-18-2016, 06:48 AM   #3934
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I'm using this ESC coupled with the HW 4700. Can't imagine what motor you'd want to run that would need more power than this ESC delivers.

Like Josh L said, very heavy to the right side with this setup, especially with an HV servo. Runs nice other than I have bent a lot of rear shock towers. A more skilled driver might not have that issue. Trying the 5mm carbon fiber rear shock tower now. Racing tomorrow. I'll see how it holds up.

Got the XR8+ to try out the "coast" feature. Only ESC that had it at the time. Worthless, at least in 1/10th scale. Oh well, live and learn...
Limits what motor fits. My 10l is too long and the 4300hd is pushing it if I mount the cap behind the motor.

Try the m2c racing shock tower. I run it with the m2c rear shock tower brace. Havent bent it yet even after many failures of the huge jump at pnb.
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Old 07-18-2016, 12:22 PM   #3935
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Default Tekno SCT410.3 Shock Oil Weight

I agree. I am always trying new combinations with shock oil. I tried 35/35 and didn't think it was heavy enough. I then went with 35 front and 37.5 for the rear and loved how the truck handled. I then went with 37.5 in the front as well and noted i was able to steer better through turns on throttle.

I have yet to try 40/40 but from what you are saying it may be worth my while.
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Old 07-20-2016, 03:04 PM   #3936
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Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
Limits what motor fits. My 10l is too long and the 4300hd is pushing it if I mount the cap behind the motor.

Try the m2c racing shock tower. I run it with the m2c rear shock tower brace. Havent bent it yet even after many failures of the huge jump at pnb.
Easy enough to mount the cap somewhere else than behind the motor. But it's your choice of course. I was only talking about ESC power output, not chassis layout.

Already tried and bent an m2c shock tower and managed to cause a stress crack in the anodized finish on the attached m2c shock tower brace where it has a right angle. I was also using a 1.5mm shim under the rear diff at the time which no doubt added flex and additional stress in that area. Can't say the shim had any noticeable effect on performance on our local blown-out outdoor track. I have since removed the shim.

The xr8+ is massive. Add an HV servo and a 550 size motor and you'll be pushing 7lbs or more with a good 2s battery and SCT body on. Even with a lighter 540 sized can, when you take a bad tumble something will no doubt give.

Anyway, so far no issues with the Tekno 5mm carbon fiber rear shock tower. And it's lighter than aluminum. If I manage to break it, I may consider starting over with a much lighter setup.

Enjoy your 410.3!
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Old 07-25-2016, 11:55 PM   #3937
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Tks fao..

I've had this truck out 2x and shock boots are torn already . I ordered a new oem set but, Anyone know of upgrades to oem's?
Did you manage to find any upgraded boot's? I have replaced all of mine already ...
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Old 07-26-2016, 06:21 AM   #3938
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would that shortcourseworld shock boot trick using balloons work on the tekno since its shocks are basically 1/8 sized?
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Old 07-26-2016, 07:47 PM   #3939
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would that shortcourseworld shock boot trick using balloons work on the tekno since its shocks are basically 1/8 sized?
The problem your going to have with using that trick is getting a bottle large enough to drop the larger bore shocks into. For the 12mm shocks, any 2 litter bottle will work, but if you stretch the balloon ends much more than what you have to on the two litter, your prolly going to tear the balloon. Done it a few times with just the normal bottle stretch.

But with that being said, the balloons do work good, but will start to tear up after a few races I have found. If there where some thicker rubber balloons it would be perfect.
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Old 07-27-2016, 12:26 AM   #3940
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Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
The problem your going to have with using that trick is getting a bottle large enough to drop the larger bore shocks into. For the 12mm shocks, any 2 litter bottle will work, but if you stretch the balloon ends much more than what you have to on the two litter, your prolly going to tear the balloon. Done it a few times with just the normal bottle stretch.

But with that being said, the balloons do work good, but will start to tear up after a few races I have found. If there where some thicker rubber balloons it would be perfect.
Use punch ball balloons. Cheap on amazon
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Old 07-27-2016, 01:03 AM   #3941
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What is the difference between The Tekno sct 410 and the sct 410.3?
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Old 07-27-2016, 01:32 AM   #3942
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What is the difference between The Tekno sct 410 and the sct 410.3?
The suspension geometry is different (shock towers, arms, rear hubs), and the 410.3 has the updated hinge pin holders and the split center diff for convenience, as well as hardened AL for ball joints and bushings instead of steel, and a lighter chassis.

Most parts are interchangeable and compatible, and they're both very capable trucks.
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Old 07-27-2016, 05:43 AM   #3943
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
would that shortcourseworld shock boot trick using balloons work on the tekno since its shocks are basically 1/8 sized?
Have ordered some to try. thanks!

Quote:
Use punch ball balloons. Cheap on amazon
Cool, gonna test this also!
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Old 07-30-2016, 07:48 PM   #3944
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Anyone have recommendations for A, B, C, and D blocks for a track like this? I'm running stock setup, with pink springs, might change to pink rear, green front... Also running RX8 G2 and Tekin Pro4 HD 4300, and am trying to find hotwire setups, but everything posted is outdated... And the new 255 firmware has some cool options at least.

But I feel like I should adjust the hinge pins, just not sure where to start.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BHKkHuYhpef/
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Old 07-31-2016, 03:21 PM   #3945
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Originally Posted by deceit View Post
Anyone have recommendations for A, B, C, and D blocks for a track like this? I'm running stock setup, with pink springs, might change to pink rear, green front... Also running RX8 G2 and Tekin Pro4 HD 4300, and am trying to find hotwire setups, but everything posted is outdated... And the new 255 firmware has some cool options at least.

But I feel like I should adjust the hinge pins, just not sure where to start.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BHKkHuYhpef/
I would look at stuff like Lutz/Bornhorst eNats setups or similar.

For Tekin setups, many of the settings are still the same. Use the things you find if you like them, then start with the new torque setting at 6 instead of the current limit settings you saw before. The other new things like frequency you can leave at default settings, which should pretty much match the prior way things were. Then you can mess with those to try and get the feel you want.
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