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Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread

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Old 09-05-2022, 08:19 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: rustyus
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.




Hinge Pin Insert Chart:

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.





















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Old 06-27-2016, 11:43 AM
  #3886  
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni
Trying lowering your anti-squat to 1 degree, really helps the truck jump level as well as give it more rear/side grip into turns.
I can't for the life of me figure out these pill placements and what they do. It just doesn't register.

What combination are you using for 1 degree antiquat?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 06-27-2016, 12:14 PM
  #3887  
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Originally Posted by shanondink
I can't for the life of me figure out these pill placements and what they do. It just doesn't register.

What combination are you using for 1 degree antiquat?

Thanks in advance.
If you use the center pills in the A and B block you get 10° of kickup and no arm sweep. If you use the center pills in the aluminum C and D blocks you get 3° of toe in and 2° of antisquat. To get 1° of antisquat we typically go to center dot down on the C block. Alternatively you can go to double dot down on the C block and double dot up on the D (this should keep your roll center is the same location as running center center), or you go to center dot up on the D block which also slightly raises your roll center. The plastic C block moves the pills up one degree so center C / center D would give you 3° of toe and 3° of antisquat.
Basically, you need to just remember what the center dot pills give you then add or subtract degrees based on what pills you change to. Here's a chart showing all the possible pill locations -
[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 06-28-2016, 02:12 AM
  #3888  
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni
If you use the center pills in the A and B block you get 10° of kickup and no arm sweep. If you use the center pills in the aluminum C and D blocks you get 3° of toe in and 2° of antisquat. To get 1° of antisquat we typically go to center dot down on the C block. Alternatively you can go to double dot down on the C block and double dot up on the D (this should keep your roll center is the same location as running center center), or you go to center dot up on the D block which also slightly raises your roll center. The plastic C block moves the pills up one degree so center C / center D would give you 3° of toe and 3° of antisquat.
Basically, you need to just remember what the center dot pills give you then add or subtract degrees based on what pills you change to. Here's a chart showing all the possible pill locations -
[IMG][/IMG]
Awesome. Thank you!
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Old 06-28-2016, 08:31 AM
  #3889  
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Body question, after this weekend my 410.3 ran amazing. I need to tweak her a lil bit but she was just plain insane. My question is, are there any other body options for this? I would entertain anything but the SCT body, I was curious about a truggy body or even a buggy body. Our 1/10 class is sort of open to SCT's and 4WD 1/10's, sort of a free for all. But our 1/8's and 1/10 2WD's are legit. Any thoughts?
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Old 06-28-2016, 10:29 AM
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Any body for the Team Associated, Losi, and Slash 4×4 will fit the Tekno SCT410 with minor changes to the body hole locations. The only direct fit body is the Losi SCTE body and it come pre-cut and the body post holes already reamed out.

All of these bodies

https://www.prolineracing.com/teckno...0-sc40-bodies/
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Old 06-28-2016, 02:03 PM
  #3891  
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I've seen the Losi truggy body fit
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Old 06-28-2016, 09:06 PM
  #3892  
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Originally Posted by MeasuresMicrons
Body question, after this weekend my 410.3 ran amazing. I need to tweak her a lil bit but she was just plain insane. My question is, are there any other body options for this? I would entertain anything but the SCT body, I was curious about a truggy body or even a buggy body. Our 1/10 class is sort of open to SCT's and 4WD 1/10's, sort of a free for all. But our 1/8's and 1/10 2WD's are legit. Any thoughts?
8th scale buggy body. This basically turns it into a eb48sl
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Old 06-28-2016, 09:11 PM
  #3893  
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Thank you.....I like the idea of that also. I had a body lying around for my 22T I fit today, I ordered the front bumper, wing and wing mount for it. Thought about doing the 17mm hub kit and going buggy tires. Like I mentioned this is a balls out class we run for fun, anything 1/10 4WD goes. lol. Thanks again

Originally Posted by wrightcs77
8th scale buggy body. This basically turns it into a eb48sl
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Old 06-29-2016, 09:19 AM
  #3894  
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so heres another body question, the 410.3 sores threw the air like an acrobat and sticks the landing like an Olympic Gymnast, if I did decide to change to a buggy body (like the idea) will this change the characteristics of the way she handles and jumps?
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Old 06-29-2016, 10:02 AM
  #3895  
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I would say it will jump even better. Big SCT bodies don't do much for airborne aerodynamics.
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Old 06-29-2016, 10:29 AM
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I do believe she may, but for some reason that big turtle shell sores over the triple as smooth as my TLR 4.0, I'd almost say with a slight advantage to the 410.3. I have everything on order so I'll try the buggy body first.

Originally Posted by mkl
I would say it will jump even better. Big SCT bodies don't do much for airborne aerodynamics.
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Old 06-29-2016, 10:41 AM
  #3897  
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That is great that it is jumping so well for you. I have an EB48 and it jumps great. It does have the wing though, that helps I'm sure.
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Old 06-29-2016, 10:47 AM
  #3898  
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I'm going to put the wing on and run it too, I'm actually going to drop my 4.0 body on it and see if she can handle running with the 8's lol.

Originally Posted by mkl
That is great that it is jumping so well for you. I have an EB48 and it jumps great. It does have the wing though, that helps I'm sure.
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Old 06-29-2016, 11:32 AM
  #3899  
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If you are going to be running in the 1/8 class and have wheels/tires, I would suggest getting these-
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5570-...gy-width-2pcs/
They allow you to run 1/8 wheels which are stronger and it brings the buggy to proper 1/8 width. And the axles are much stronger
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Old 06-29-2016, 03:09 PM
  #3900  
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yea thanks, I've been checking those out
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