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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 06-22-2016, 03:08 AM   #3871
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tibbar110 View Post
What is anti squat?
The up/down angle of the rear hinge pins. You may want to read the first post on this thread.
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Old 06-22-2016, 07:08 AM   #3872
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I don't know if this holds true for the SCT (shorter shock bodies), but, from my understanding, you really don't want to invert the conical shock pistons. This can make the piston bottom out in the shock body.

Reducing the anti-squat helped mine a lot. If your rear end is slapping the jump, I would go up in shock oil and possibly springs. With pinks all around, I would think you are good on springs.

Another thing that helped me is to try and take the jumps at a constant speed or maybe accelerating just a little. Depending on the size of the jump, I may stay on the throttle for a sec while airborne just a little to try and stay level. For me, the more air I get, the harder it is to correct the car if it's not level.
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Old 06-22-2016, 08:24 AM   #3873
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Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
Not trying to argue with you Poet, but that isn't what Tekno said the problem was.
They recommended taking the anti-squat almost all the way out because they said the reason the truck was nose diving was because the rebound was two quick as a driver throttled over the jump face, making it seem like the pan slapping down was kicking it over, while in actuality the rear end was jumping up from the torque of throttling up with the anti-squat. This was said to be causing the rear end to pogo up.

I followed what they said and removed the anti-squat down to 1 degrees and the entire problem went away.
Granted I did move to pink springs all around with 40wt front 35wt rear with the stock 8 hole pistons.
In saying what I have, I am not saying your wrong. I have no proof either way. Just stating what Tekno them selves said about it a while back.

Either way, I am sure your method does the same thing as far as slowing rebound speeds.
Inverting the pistons seems to help with this effect as well and worth being mentioned as to why most of the pros do this.
McGuigan tends to run the white delrin 6 hole 1.5 pistons inverted on most of his setups.

He also runs the M2C chassis that places the battery back 10mm to further negate the nose weight, which he has stated is a large improvement for his driving style and allows him to run more antisquat without the negative effects.
Squat and kickup will also affect how stiff that end seems, in addition to the other things they change. Shock position will also have a similar affect on stiffness in addition to the other effects.
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Old 06-22-2016, 11:00 AM   #3874
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justpoet View Post
Squat and kickup will also affect how stiff that end seems, in addition to the other things they change. Shock position will also have a similar affect on stiffness in addition to the other effects.
justpoet and Josh
You both make great points !! The way I feel is you can get the same result by doing different changes. It just depends on where or how you start making adjustments.
I like to help guys with setups here but for me I need to know the whole setups in details down to tires/foam or even hands on is what I prefer. Because sometimes its just as basic as binding parts that causes ill handling car, so we can chase the setup all day long and may not able to cure it.
Keep up the good work guys.
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Old 06-22-2016, 11:18 AM   #3875
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If the antisquat thing doesn't work, piston change would be worth a look if you are going to pop open the shocks anyway.

As it sits right now for you guys rocking the latest SCT410.3, what is the solution then to get jump performance like the other SCTs (basically, no specially throttle control heroics) and still have traction on very loose surfaces. That was my main issue I had with the V1 and I still see some of them with guys running what looks like V3s so any info I can pass along would be great.
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Old 06-22-2016, 02:45 PM   #3876
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
I don't know if this holds true for the SCT (shorter shock bodies), but, from my understanding, you really don't want to invert the conical shock pistons. This can make the piston bottom out in the shock body.

Reducing the anti-squat helped mine a lot. If your rear end is slapping the jump, I would go up in shock oil and possibly springs. With pinks all around, I would think you are good on springs.

Another thing that helped me is to try and take the jumps at a constant speed or maybe accelerating just a little. Depending on the size of the jump, I may stay on the throttle for a sec while airborne just a little to try and stay level. For me, the more air I get, the harder it is to correct the car if it's not level.
With due respect I see why you might think this, but it's not an issue what so ever. It actually gives more clearance on the compression stroke side, but like you said, less on rebound. But this is completely negated by setting your droop screw to relieve any pressures.
The reason for inverting the conical piston is to further settle the suspension by slowing down the rebound and loosening up the compression stroke. McGuigan says it made a notable difference that keeps thing planted. As I said before he runs 6 hole 1.5 pistons all around with 40ish wt oil front and 35ish rear. Not exactly sure the weights because he runs PT while I'm more used to Losi weights. All I know for certain is its heavy which I imagine is better for the inverted pistons considering effects.
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Old 06-22-2016, 02:59 PM   #3877
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justpoet View Post
Squat and kickup will also affect how stiff that end seems, in addition to the other things they change. Shock position will also have a similar affect on stiffness in addition to the other effects.
Agreeded. I generally run a slight less kickup than most because I like my trucks to turn in harder than stock generally does. The Tekno turns great regardless, but with my SCTE 2.0 it's a must when running the short drag link to feel like I want it to. Generally I'm not running super rough tracks so the bump handling loss isn't felt as much as the turn-in I gain from off setting the castor angle a tad.
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Old 06-22-2016, 07:19 PM   #3878
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In case anyone is wondering, I picked up a set of the TKR1654X hexes. By themselves, they add about 0.5mm of offset. The only way you come close to 1mm is by adding the included shims. I had to add two shims on each side to get the clearance I needed in the rear.
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Old 06-22-2016, 09:43 PM   #3879
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Could anyone advise me on what pinion to use when putting a mamba monster x in the sct410? Will the monster x fit without modding? Forgot to add ill be running 3s and 4s.
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Old 06-23-2016, 12:49 AM   #3880
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Could anyone advise me on what pinion to use when putting a mamba monster x in the sct410? Will the monster x fit without modding? Forgot to add ill be running 3s and 4s.
Pinion will depend more on the KV of the motor than the ESC. If you provide that, we will be able to help more with a starting suggestion for pinion range.
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Old 06-23-2016, 02:59 AM   #3881
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The motor kv is the 2650.
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Old 06-23-2016, 03:32 AM   #3882
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Tire Demension effects pinion & spur ratio also.
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Old 06-24-2016, 04:07 AM   #3883
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roachtron View Post
Could anyone advise me on what pinion to use when putting a mamba monster x in the sct410? Will the monster x fit without modding? Forgot to add ill be running 3s and 4s.
Yes, it fits. Purchased because it was waterproof and sensored. Still running 2S.
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Old 06-24-2016, 09:57 AM   #3884
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Originally Posted by roachtron View Post
The motor kv is the 2650.
On 3s, an 18t is a good starting spot and I'd probably have a 19t on hand for larger areas/tracks.
On 4s, a 14t would be the starting spot, which is I believe the smallest pinion that can fit without modification of the center brace.

Also note that I think your motor will be a full size 8th scale can (if not, ignore this part), so you'll need to replace the motor mount slider that is LCG in the box with the normal one, so the motor won't be crammed down against the chassis.
This is what comes in the kit:
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5212-...htened-sct410/
and this is the lightened version that you'll want if using larger diameter motors:
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5211x...zed-lightened/
or the full weight normal version:
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5211-...etal-anodized/
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Old 06-27-2016, 09:17 AM   #3885
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Took my truck to the track this past weekend and it was a beast! Overall I feel like it jumped pretty good, it nose dived hard a few times but I think that's just me getting used to the truck... other times it feel straight... I have pinks all around and stock setup aside from that. Running a RX8 Gen2 and Pro4 HD 4300 with 70c 2s with a 14t pinion. Can't wait to get more track time and see how it really handles. Any upgrades I should look into getting?
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