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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 05-30-2016, 09:03 AM   #3721
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Originally Posted by HoldDaMayo View Post
broke my first thing on the SCT410.3... and it's a strange one... shock bladder! Somehow got a hole in the middle... was very small, hard to notice until you kind of stretched it out, but it was leaking a good amount of oil because of the hole... a bit messy and annoying, but at least the truck still actually drove pretty well for about 6 packs after I noticed the leak, just filled a little oil every once in a while.

Question, I ran the stock vented setup, if i were running the emulsion setup I wouldn't have to deal with holes in bladders... think it's worth making the change for?

Thanks.
Dude, you are my hero on Memorial day. Luckily today I found your post in a search of this thread. I had oil oozing out of the top of one of my rear shock's vent hole. This morning I must have re-filled and bled out the oil a half dozen times and it still leaked. I thought maybe the bladder wasn't sealing right, in there crooked. Then I read your post and decided to stretch out the bladder to look for a hole. It was exactly as you found. There was a defect in the bladder and it was right in the top middle of the dome. Like where the rubber was poured in the mold at the factory that made the bladders. Man this was driving me nuts. All I need is a new bladder. Heads up to others with this problem!!!
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Old 05-30-2016, 09:36 AM   #3722
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Twice I've been at the track and I've realized that my 4wd truck was really only a 2wd truck.
The diff. Coupler was not tightened down, it was just spinning. I'm putting lock tight on the treads and tightening what am I doing wrong ?
I ordered longer set screws off a machine shop website. Or grub screws as they also call them, I bought 8mm or 10mm length, but basically doubled the length and the cone tip bit in way better. Replaced all the shitty stock ones after it kept my motor gear locked in better and doesn't cause any clearance issues anywhere I have seen. 10 or 8mm grub screw m5, google that, lol. Your welcome in advance! Been awhile since I have been on here, it's nitro season so I haven't run my electric sc in a long time since all the servo issues I had with Protek my Tekno never got off the ground.
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Old 05-30-2016, 10:13 AM   #3723
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This is totally stupid question but you are tightening the set screw onto the flat correct? If so is the set screw backing out that far with the lock-tite on it?
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Old 05-30-2016, 07:56 PM   #3724
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Ugh.. looks like the rear driveshafts are bent a little too.
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Old 05-31-2016, 01:14 AM   #3725
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What is the best servo for 410.3
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Old 05-31-2016, 04:23 AM   #3726
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What is the best servo for 410.3
Protek 130T in mine and works awesome. Comes with an aluminum servo arm. Gobs of torque.
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Old 05-31-2016, 06:20 AM   #3727
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeRC123 View Post
Dude, you are my hero on Memorial day. Luckily today I found your post in a search of this thread. I had oil oozing out of the top of one of my rear shock's vent hole. This morning I must have re-filled and bled out the oil a half dozen times and it still leaked. I thought maybe the bladder wasn't sealing right, in there crooked. Then I read your post and decided to stretch out the bladder to look for a hole. It was exactly as you found. There was a defect in the bladder and it was right in the top middle of the dome. Like where the rubber was poured in the mold at the factory that made the bladders. Man this was driving me nuts. All I need is a new bladder. Heads up to others with this problem!!!
Sounds like you guys may be running a fair amount of rebound in your vented bladders and hydraulically forcing the bladder through the vent hole on hard suspension compression. It has nothing to do with the build of the bladders. Also, Kyosho bladders will work along with Serpent bladders and probably tons of other makes as well. I've tried the Kyosho bladders myself and really like them.
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Old 05-31-2016, 08:39 AM   #3728
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bds81175 View Post
Sounds like you guys may be running a fair amount of rebound in your vented bladders and hydraulically forcing the bladder through the vent hole on hard suspension compression. It has nothing to do with the build of the bladders. Also, Kyosho bladders will work along with Serpent bladders and probably tons of other makes as well. I've tried the Kyosho bladders myself and really like them.
Interesting. Thanks for the input. I didn't know that was possible. So the fix would be build the shock better or use a different bladder? Only one of my rear shocks did this. I try to to build the shocks dead, with very little rebound. But it always seems to rebound very slowly no matter how I do it (plunger all the way in).

Last edited by JoeRC123; 05-31-2016 at 08:59 AM.
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Old 05-31-2016, 08:54 AM   #3729
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How do the folks over at Team Psycho Dog build a bladder shock with less rebound?
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Old 05-31-2016, 09:17 AM   #3730
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Originally Posted by ryan432greening View Post
How do the folks over at Team Psycho Dog build a bladder shock with less rebound?
Not hard to set rebound on bladder shocks.

Move the piston to where you want it to rebound (push it all the way in for zero rebound), make sure to cap off the oil, push the bladder down so the excess comes out. At that point pull the shock shaft down a smidge so the bladder stays in place and screw on the top cap.. easy and done. Best way to run shocks. Typically around 30% in the front and 10% in the rear is nice, just an opinion though.
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Old 05-31-2016, 09:21 AM   #3731
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What do you figure this is doing to the bladder as you extend the shock fully. It would be pulling down on the bladder with decent force at this point, would it not?
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Old 05-31-2016, 09:28 AM   #3732
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Also, what's the fix for those darned leaky diffs right from the kit build these days?
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Old 05-31-2016, 09:40 AM   #3733
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Also, what's the fix for those darned leaky diffs right from the kit build these days?
8 kits later, I've only had one leaky diff..And tightened the diff screws a little more, and never an issue since. So not sure what leaky diffs your talking about. You do have to torque the screws down a bit, and always do a star pattern when doing so to tighten evenly.
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Old 05-31-2016, 10:53 AM   #3734
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What sort of grease do you guys recommend for the gear boxes? I have some black grease from AE and Durango. Will that work okay?
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Old 05-31-2016, 12:09 PM   #3735
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What sort of grease do you guys recommend for the gear boxes? I have some black grease from AE and Durango. Will that work okay?
That will work just fine. You don't want to gob it on, just enough to put some there.
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