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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 05-14-2016, 07:20 AM   #3616
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Originally Posted by crash n go View Post
Are you sure it isn't coming from the screw holes? The tekno diff housing screw holes go all the way through the housing. I have noticed if I don't blow the oil out once it is assembled with the compressor I get oil splatter. If you don't have a compressor stick you Allen wrench in the hole to get most of it out.
That's a very good call. I noticed the same thing so I used a pin to take out as much as possible. It could actually be what I left in there....hopefully. It should eventually stop if this is the cause. Thanks.
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Old 05-14-2016, 02:58 PM   #3617
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Originally Posted by SerpJimmy View Post
Theres a very slight difference in weight of electronics between 2s & 3s if thats what your getting at. After hours of playing ,, I tried making adjustments to simulate 2s & tekin 4300+. The problem as I see it on the scales is the right front is over loaded with electronics. Also the chassis plate is extended to accommodate the servo. 125 grams is alot .. And Battery mod really only helps balance by about 10-15 grams . Not worth hacking things up for IMO..
The Tekin is scarily close to the spur gear in the left rear position isn't it. I was going to mount it back there but just couldn't bring myself to put something that close to the spinning spur.

Are you running a soft sided 3s pack? What is the weight difference between a standard 2s and the 3s you are running? Either way, like you said, you can't get that battery back far enough to make enough of a difference.
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Old 05-14-2016, 03:30 PM   #3618
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The difference between say a SPC 2s 7200 & SPC 3s 5000 is roughly 60grams . With the 3s coming in heavier. The thing is ,, to balance things out , the 3 s was to light.. So that makes the 2s set up worse yet. I would of had to add a ton of weight to balance this Beast.. Wasn't happening ... This is what pushed me to do the mod.
I just went for it..

I had it out today at the track for the first time ever.. Just drove the damn thing ! Theres a ton of jumps on this track , not much girlie flat stuff ! Triples , Doubles etc .. Never worried about nose dive ! Never did !

Really ran like a champ and i'm totally not used to it....

Last edited by SerpJimmy; 05-14-2016 at 03:45 PM.
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Old 05-14-2016, 04:02 PM   #3619
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Originally Posted by SerpJimmy View Post
The difference between say a SPC 2s 7200 & SPC 3s 5000 is roughly 60grams . With the 3s coming in heavier. The thing is ,, to balance things out , the 3 s was to light.. So that makes the 2s set up worse yet. I would of had to add a ton of weight to balance this Beast.. Wasn't happening ... This is what pushed me to do the mod.
I just went for it..

I had it out today at the track for the first time ever.. Just drove the damn thing ! Theres a ton of jumps on this track , not much girlie flat stuff ! Triples , Doubles etc .. Never worried about nose dive ! Never did !

Really ran like a champ and i'm totally not used to it....
Good news!
And appreciate the input.
Something else I have been considering attempting is to re fit that servo in a lay down position to drop more CG.
I am perplexed at the design choice on these short course trucks these days with the stand up style servo mounts.
It's a well known factor to keep CG as low as possible, yet everyone keeps standing them up. It's the exact same reason I play with the inverted shock ordeal. Brings the CG down much lower with a small penalty of unsprung weight increase. One guy I know really picked up his lap times with the inverts on a carpet track, because he can now corner faster than before without flipping.
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Old 05-14-2016, 04:32 PM   #3620
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Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
Good news!
And appreciate the input.
Something else I have been considering attempting is to re fit that servo in a lay down position to drop more CG.
I am perplexed at the design choice on these short course trucks these days with the stand up style servo mounts.
It's a well known factor to keep CG as low as possible, yet everyone keeps standing them up. It's the exact same reason I play with the inverted shock ordeal. Brings the CG down much lower with a small penalty of unsprung weight increase. One guy I know really picked up his lap times with the inverts on a carpet track, because he can now corner faster than before without flipping.
HMM .. Just how to get'er done?
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Old 05-14-2016, 04:41 PM   #3621
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Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
I am perplexed at the design choice on these short course trucks these days with the stand up style servo mounts.
It's a well known factor to keep CG as low as possible, yet everyone keeps standing them up.
Mostly to remove any mechanical expo from the steering and make it easier to setup your radio during servo centering and endpoint adjustments, especially the visual aspect of it. Also, at least with our current layout, you'd eat up the already limited space designated for the ESC if the servo were in a laydown position.
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Old 05-14-2016, 05:03 PM   #3622
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So SerpJimmy, how close is your ESC to the spur gear? Mine was within a mm and the limiting factor was the C block. Did you just remove the side guard and move he ESC out a bit? I can't tell from the pic.
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Old 05-14-2016, 05:56 PM   #3623
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So SerpJimmy, how close is your ESC to the spur gear? Mine was within a mm and the limiting factor was the C block. Did you just remove the side guard and move he ESC out a bit? I can't tell from the pic.
I mounted the esc against the guard. I kinda wanted it there for protection against side impact. Also it worked better as far as balance. Esc is about 3/16 from gear . And I agree that its close. I got hit pretty good today from the side and as of now its OK no damage or gear marks on there.. I used kyosho zeal to adhere esc. Like i said though , it stayed put . However I got a hard time trusting 2 faced tape for the long haul ... Was thinking of having one of my buddies Tig a bracket on there ... But to Heavy , Chassis plate warp Blah Blah
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Old 05-14-2016, 09:37 PM   #3624
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
Mostly to remove any mechanical expo from the steering and make it easier to setup your radio during servo centering and endpoint adjustments, especially the visual aspect of it. Also, at least with our current layout, you'd eat up the already limited space designated for the ESC if the servo were in a laydown position.
Interesting about the mechanical expo. Never really crossed my mind because I haven't played with the idea of it yet. But in saying that, it could easily be fixed if the bellcrank was re-placed/sized?.. to account for mechanical deviations. And while your explanation makes more sense now that you explained, considering people are now playing with the ESC placement, wouldn't it be a more viable execution with the ESC behind the battery? Would be worth considering in your future designs I would think.
A more modular component layout that would allow owners to choose the location of ESC and or servo positioning based on characteristic preferences which would at the same time offer precise balance to be achieved with any choice of electronic component combinations.
Just a thought amongst 100 others I would love to discuss with an outstanding design team like Tekno has with people like yourself.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SerpJimmy View Post
I mounted the esc against the guard. I kinda wanted it there for protection against side impact. Also it worked better as far as balance. Esc is about 3/16 from gear . And I agree that its close. I got hit pretty good today from the side and as of now its OK no damage or gear marks on there.. I used kyosho zeal to adhere esc. Like i said though , it stayed put . However I got a hard time trusting 2 faced tape for the long haul ... Was thinking of having one of my buddies Tig a bracket on there ... But to Heavy , Chassis plate warp Blah Blah
A solid mount platform is super easy to achieve with negligible weight increases.
For instance I made a carbon fiber ESC mount plate for my SCTE that is thinner than double sided tape, yet gives me just enough meat to counter sink a couple taper head screws thought the bottom of it into the ESC case.
The plate it's self is held in place by being mounted beneath the pre-existing
battery blocks so that it sandwiches the plate between it and the chassis pan. No chance of the ESC moving when it's literally hard mounted like that. It also makes it like the Tekno's ESC plate in the way it can be removed from the chassis with a couple screws instead of pealing off and having to remount it will fresh tape or glue.
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Old 05-14-2016, 11:22 PM   #3625
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Originally Posted by suzukipro View Post
Likely the layout or direction your driving it in conjunction with your setup.
Considering this truck has a right front weight bias going on, it is potentially due to that spring having more preload on it than the rest of them, forcing that wheel down harder than the rest.
What electronics are you running?
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Old 05-14-2016, 11:54 PM   #3626
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Originally Posted by RCTesoro21 View Post
This is freakin awesome, and it's even officially licensed by Tekno! I want one...or three. How much?!
I have an etsy store I just started for a temporary hub until I get my company (PZP) website in operation.
It can be found here> PZP Etsy Store

I am glad to hear you like the stand and feel like you will really like the revisions I have been making.
As a side note, I wouldn't say I am technically licensed by Tekno, as there was no formal agreement or money exchanged. While they where very kind to allow the use of their logos within the things I create and potentially sell, I am in no way affiliated in legal terms and want that to be known in respect to them. While I will take credit for my original designs, the coolest feature in my eyes is representing their logo, which is why I am posting this here.

Anyhow the stand you see pictured was just a rough cut prototype.
The newer one I will be testing out within the week will have more features and will support many of the Tekno tools with built in holders for each.
Stay tuned to my store for releases as I get things sorted and finalized with the designs I have on the way.
The newest (very soon to be released) item will be two light boxes I designed for work bench display.
The Tekno logo looks killer spread across the edge lit acrylic!
I suspect these will be considerably popular, as there is nothing like them RC specific as far as I know about and many that have seen them have left very positive feedback.
I also plan to make a page on RCtech as well, so as not to thread jack unintentionally. In light of that and out of respect to the users and mods, I would ask that those that have questions please PM me here or better yet on facebook. I can be found on my group (RC Mod Proz)

Large Light Box (Stand or hang ready)





Small outline Light box


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Old 05-15-2016, 04:50 AM   #3627
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Nice work , Josh..
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Old 05-15-2016, 08:19 AM   #3628
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SPRINGS ???
What are you using as an alternate to the pink springs?

I have my truck set-up to where it handles great. I have been running the black springs front and rear with 35/30 wt oil, ride height at 74. Out track is hard packed (bumpy) and very fast with no large jumps.

I changed to pink springs Friday night and liked the way my truck handled. I could only get the ride ht down to 76. I would like to run the truck lower without changing the shock positions.

Current shock positions:
front> 3/outside
rear > 2/outside
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Old 05-15-2016, 10:04 AM   #3629
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SPRINGS ???
What are you using as an alternate to the pink springs?

I have my truck set-up to where it handles great. I have been running the black springs front and rear with 35/30 wt oil, ride height at 74. Out track is hard packed (bumpy) and very fast with no large jumps.

I changed to pink springs Friday night and liked the way my truck handled. I could only get the ride ht down to 76. I would like to run the truck lower without changing the shock positions.

Current shock positions:
front> 3/outside
rear > 2/outside
After doing the esc mod the pink front springs were now to stiff . Front was way high & couldn't bring front down . Today i changed to black + or - 6 turns in . Just need to try it..
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Old 05-15-2016, 11:04 AM   #3630
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowspark View Post
SPRINGS ???
What are you using as an alternate to the pink springs?

I have my truck set-up to where it handles great. I have been running the black springs front and rear with 35/30 wt oil, ride height at 74. Out track is hard packed (bumpy) and very fast with no large jumps.

I changed to pink springs Friday night and liked the way my truck handled. I could only get the ride ht down to 76. I would like to run the truck lower without changing the shock positions.

Current shock positions:
front> 3/outside
rear > 2/outside
Quote:
Originally Posted by SerpJimmy View Post
After doing the esc mod the pink front springs were now to stiff . Front was way high & couldn't bring front down . Today i changed to black + or - 6 turns in . Just need to try it..

This is actually a common issues, you can sand down the plastic shock retainers that adjust the spring preload to get the ride height down.
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