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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 05-08-2016, 05:29 PM   #3601
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Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
I will write it up soon as I am done tweaking it to perfection. I mostly run on low bite dusty hard pack and loamy tracks. So I am usually on another spectrum of tuning than you find by the pro sheets
LOL....that's the beauty about this hobby....you can run the same lap time as the guy next to you but you both has a totally different set up on your cars....love it
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Old 05-08-2016, 05:52 PM   #3602
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Originally Posted by taz169 View Post
Ok well after an hour of trying I cant seem to load the pics I took. I did the ESC mod just like Lowes48. Here are the numbers only thing different is my lipo is slid all the way forward as it just weighs in at 320g.

LF=754g RF=710g

LR=724g RR=758g

Its close to even. And at least the two heaviest and the two lightest tires are across from eachother making it even when turning. Raced it last night and it is a lot more balanced. I can add a little weight to RF and get it to 724g to match the LR and those two would be as balanced as the LF and the RR. I weighed the receiver box with the lid antenna and the screws and it is 30g. So stock that RR and RF have a good amount of weight. And when you do the battery tray mod you do move weight to the rear but it also goes over to the RR and the LF becomes the tire with the least amount of weight and the RR with the most. You dont want your lightest tire and you heaviest tire across from each other like that. At an angle the RF and LR should have close to the same weight. And the RF and LR should have close to the same weight. That way stomping on the throttle or jamin into a turn you are 50/50 at an angle. If this makes since cool if not I dont think I can explain it any better. Truck drove more balanced and on a 16 second lap time I picked up at least .5 of a second. And thats a lot for the first time out with it. We have 10 or 12 trucks that run indoor high bite every Friday night. And the top 6 me included are only .3 to .5 a second between all of us. I had first for a while got nervous and lost it. But the truck for me anyway is better with the ESC back there. And when I soldered it up this time I keep the wires long. I could put the truck back to the way it was in under an hour. Just thought I would post what I found out...


I do run a Savox 1258tg and it weighs just 56 or so grams. So that is why my RF is a little light I think. I do have my receiver and lap timer and everything mounted like the pic Lowes48 posted.

If anyone wants to know I used a G-Force scale like this.... http://www.teameamotorsports.com/ind...product_id=131
Hey taz
Great write up and I'm glad the mod helped out !!
Second time out my self yesterday and i have to say I've NEVER I mean ever qualify so consistence as i did Saturday. The truck was so easy and consistence to drive it was fun.I was driving at 85% at the time, I would say I'm very happy with the progress and glad I did the mod.
Fyi,I did the same to my superlite buggy without removing the receiver box due to running different electronic package. The buggy is perfectly 50/50 left to right and 47.5/52.5 front to rear.
I qualified 2nd but I no longer a lap down and zero crash
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Old 05-08-2016, 05:59 PM   #3603
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For those of you that are highly concerned with vehicle balance front to back (will not affect left to right) rather than just wheel pressure, make sure you also realize that hinge pin locations and hub locations will all drastically affect this, even with locked and non-moving suspension, as will body mount holes and heights.

That being said, whatever you want to do is possible, and I definitely enjoy seeing people make more use of the hobby side of our racing sport.
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Old 05-08-2016, 06:48 PM   #3604
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Originally Posted by justpoet View Post
For those of you that are highly concerned with vehicle balance front to back (will not affect left to right) rather than just wheel pressure, make sure you also realize that hinge pin locations and hub locations will all drastically affect this, even with locked and non-moving suspension, as will body mount holes and heights.

That being said, whatever you want to do is possible, and I definitely enjoy seeing people make more use of the hobby side of our racing sport.
Well said. Thanks justpoet.
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Old 05-10-2016, 04:36 AM   #3605
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Balance:
Standard set up
Running 3s 5000mah
suspension unrestricted-
Wheels balanced

Front right 120-125 gr heavier then front left.

and 60-80 grams heavier then rear. Larger rear shocks made some of the difference.

Moving hinge pins made a difference of -5 grams . Baby steps

Kinda disappointed here, I must say. To move rx8 to left rear , it doesn't fit. Also the way it looks on my scales rx8 should be moved to front left and battery needs to be moved to rear . But that's not working either. This is a brand new esc never run . Now I gotta start looking into another . Wt---
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Old 05-10-2016, 07:53 AM   #3606
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SerpJimmy View Post
Balance:
Standard set up
Running 3s 5000mah
suspension unrestricted-
Wheels balanced

Front right 120-125 gr heavier then front left.

and 60-80 grams heavier then rear. Larger rear shocks made some of the difference.

Moving hinge pins made a difference of -5 grams . Baby steps

Kinda disappointed here, I must say. To move rx8 to left rear , it doesn't fit. Also the way it looks on my scales rx8 should be moved to front left and battery needs to be moved to rear . But that's not working either. This is a brand new esc never run . Now I gotta start looking into another . Wt---
This truck was designed to be run with 2S packs, so I imagine your major weight difference is due to running a 3S more than likely.
What is your motor type?
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Old 05-10-2016, 08:04 AM   #3607
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Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
This truck was designed to be run with 2S packs, so I imagine your major weight difference is due to running a 3S more than likely.
What is your motor type?
If I add weight to the battery it gets some what better . Not much.
Tekin 3000 Hd

I believe what needs to be done in order for the rx8 to work and balance things out a little bit closer is ,, the battery tray needs to be completely redesigned. If Tekno won't do it maybe an after market company. Rx8 would be best fit front left (opposite servo)
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Old 05-13-2016, 08:36 PM   #3608
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I just built one of these and immediately saw oil splatter from my center diff. But it's not from the gasket area, it's from the other o-ring side. Followed the instructions to the T. I just had it apart now and could not get the gear off to inspect and re-grease the o-ring and metal washer that goes over it. So I just re-filled it and put it back together. Still splatters out of the 0-ring area.

Anybody have an idea how to pick the spur gear off the back of the cup? I tried a little piano wire and also a little hemostat. What could be causing a leak on a brand new o-ring with plenty of grease on it? I'm ready to buy a new diff cup and an o-ring to get rid of the leak. Maybe Tekno warrantee will cover this. I haven't called them yet.

Thanks
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Old 05-13-2016, 11:24 PM   #3609
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I just built one of these and immediately saw oil splatter from my center diff. But it's not from the gasket area, it's from the other o-ring side. Followed the instructions to the T. I just had it apart now and could not get the gear off to inspect and re-grease the o-ring and metal washer that goes over it. So I just re-filled it and put it back together. Still splatters out of the 0-ring area.

Anybody have an idea how to pick the spur gear off the back of the cup? I tried a little piano wire and also a little hemostat. What could be causing a leak on a brand new o-ring with plenty of grease on it? I'm ready to buy a new diff cup and an o-ring to get rid of the leak. Maybe Tekno warrantee will cover this. I haven't called them yet.

Thanks
Are you sure it isn't coming from the screw holes? The tekno diff housing screw holes go all the way through the housing. I have noticed if I don't blow the oil out once it is assembled with the compressor I get oil splatter. If you don't have a compressor stick you Allen wrench in the hole to get most of it out.
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Old 05-14-2016, 12:53 AM   #3610
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
Made this Tekno spec work stand for my girlfriend's 410.3.
Fits the trucks chassis like a glove and holds much more steady that any platform I have used before for any vehicle. There are still a lot of little things I am working out, but when I am done it will hold all the Tekno tools and shocks.
They are built from 5mm ply that I cut with a 100 watt Co2 laser from vector files I designed as interlocking parts.




This is freakin awesome, and it's even officially licensed by Tekno! I want one...or three. How much?!
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Old 05-14-2016, 12:58 AM   #3611
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Why would my front right tire wear out much faster than all my other tires on my 410.3?
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Old 05-14-2016, 01:14 AM   #3612
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Why would my front right tire wear out much faster than all my other tires on my 410.3?
Likely the layout or direction your driving it in conjunction with your setup.
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Old 05-14-2016, 01:27 AM   #3613
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Just finished up my 410.3 build, overall it went pretty smooth. I love how heavy duty this thing is, and the chassis layout and wire management is well thought out. I should be taking it out this sunday for its first run and I can't be more excited. I've had a slash 4x4 I tried to race, then got a losi and loved it but 4wd SCT died so I sold it, but now its picking up again so I grabbed the tekno and I'm glad I did.
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Old 05-14-2016, 06:17 AM   #3614
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Originally Posted by SerpJimmy View Post
If I add weight to the battery it gets some what better . Not much.
Tekin 3000 Hd

I believe what needs to be done in order for the rx8 to work and balance things out a little bit closer is ,, the battery tray needs to be completely redesigned. If Tekno won't do it maybe an after market company. Rx8 would be best fit front left (opposite servo)
Unfortunately you are running an electronics combo that isn't common in the racing environment. I doubt you will find any of the larger aftermarket manufacturers who are thinking of making this mod.

Honestly though, for this class, this SHOULD be the more typical configuration. They should have designed the class around 3S with lower KV motors.
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Old 05-14-2016, 07:54 AM   #3615
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Originally Posted by bds81175 View Post
Unfortunately you are running an electronics combo that isn't common in the racing environment. I doubt you will find any of the larger aftermarket manufacturers who are thinking of making this mod.

Honestly though, for this class, this SHOULD be the more typical configuration. They should have designed the class around 3S with lower KV motors.
Theres a very slight difference in weight of electronics between 2s & 3s if thats what your getting at. After hours of playing ,, I tried making adjustments to simulate 2s & tekin 4300+. The problem as I see it on the scales is the right front is over loaded with electronics. Also the chassis plate is extended to accommodate the servo. 125 grams is alot .. And Battery mod really only helps balance by about 10-15 grams . Not worth hacking things up for IMO..
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