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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 05-01-2016, 11:33 AM   #3526
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Finally!!

Someone who gets it and put it into words. The slight weight forward bias of the Tekno is THE reason I run their kits - if they where to change that, it would ruin this chassis.

The last thing you want in a 4WD chassis is to heel and toe over jumps. Nothing wrong with Tekno's weight bias.
Can you please share the electronics combo you are running with your car on the scale? So I can understand what I'm doing wrong with my car. Because it shows on my scale that my right side is way heavier than my left,numbers just don't lie. To me the left to right unbalance is unacceptable !!
Thx.
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Old 05-01-2016, 11:47 AM   #3527
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Hey Jimmy
I'm more concern about left to right bias more than front to rear bias. Front/rear can be tailor to your liking by shocks/springs/oil package but side to side isn't.
Everyone can quit the bickering now. He states straight out that his main focus was on side to side weight balance as opposed to front to rear. No one was commanded to follow what he was doing. I found the same side to side bias as well and I plan on doing something about it. I could have just as easily ignored it and not argued with everyone about something this senseless.
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Old 05-01-2016, 12:04 PM   #3528
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On the right - RX8 (76 grams) and a Pro4 4600 (193 grams), most servos are about 60 grams and most receivers are about 10 grams. All of that together is ~335-345 grams. Most of the big batteries, 7000-8000 mah weigh about 320-340 grams.
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Old 05-01-2016, 12:35 PM   #3529
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Everyone can quit the bickering now. He states straight out that his main focus was on side to side weight balance as opposed to front to rear. No one was commanded to follow what he was doing. I found the same side to side bias as well and I plan on doing something about it. I could have just as easily ignored it and not argued with everyone about something this senseless.
Finally
someone understand what I was saying
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Old 05-01-2016, 12:38 PM   #3530
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
On the right - RX8 (76 grams) and a Pro4 4600 (193 grams), most servos are about 60 grams and most receivers are about 10 grams. All of that together is ~335-345 grams. Most of the big batteries, 7000-8000 mah weigh about 320-340 grams.
Yup,I knew it was that Pro4 4300 motor!!
But i love that low end torque so much though.....
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Old 05-01-2016, 12:47 PM   #3531
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
On the right - RX8 (76 grams) and a Pro4 4600 (193 grams), most servos are about 60 grams and most receivers are about 10 grams. All of that together is ~335-345 grams. Most of the big batteries, 7000-8000 mah weigh about 320-340 grams.
Thanks Matt for making it official with what was used so people can have some idea of where they stand with their chosen electronics.

Many people now have AL servos that are in the 75g range, Pro4 HDs with heat sinks and fans on them, and batteries that are only 300 or so grams...and thus end up with the mentioned side to side balance issues.

Some will be happy, some won't. Some will notice, some won't.

As for the front/rear bias mentioned above, I agree with more up front being generally better. That's why I stuff as much up front as I can, rather than putting things back by/in the rx case. Everybody will have their own preferences, and that's all good.
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Old 05-01-2016, 12:47 PM   #3532
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what are some tricks to keep this truck flatter on jumps.. likes to nose dive a bit. Never had this issue w/ other pro4 trucks.. just looking for thoughts. Its not from chassis slapping and going over, it just wants to nose dive... some jumps you can just adapt.. but others are really tough and there typically isn't enough motor to correct and save.
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Old 05-01-2016, 01:01 PM   #3533
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Actual front to rear weight of mid motor desert racing trucks range between 50/50 to 52R/48f. Imo that's where I'm shooting for.
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Old 05-01-2016, 04:36 PM   #3534
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lowe's48 View Post
Can you please share the electronics combo you are running with your car on the scale? So I can understand what I'm doing wrong with my car. Because it shows on my scale that my right side is way heavier than my left,numbers just don't lie. To me the left to right unbalance is unacceptable !!
Thx.
HW SCT-Pro
Protek 150 servo
HW 4000kw
15T pinion
SMC 6500maH

Frankly, I didn't take anyones statements as "bickering." I thought most of the comments on weight bias were pretty constructive. Comments were made with good intentions, there was no foul language or name calling, and all were on topic.

I understand moderation, I am a systems administrator myself, but let and encourage folks to discuss ideas. Everyone gains understanding in different ways and at a different pace.
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Old 05-01-2016, 05:30 PM   #3535
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I'm about to order this kit tonight and I was curious if there are any upgrades to purchase from the get-go for the initial build to get out of the way? I've heard it uses plastic diff pins for the spider gears? Is that something that should be upgraded right away? I haven't heard much in terms of overall durability, meaning that its tough out of the box but I feel like those diff pins should be steel.
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Old 05-01-2016, 05:32 PM   #3536
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I'm about to order this kit tonight and I was curious if there are any upgrades to purchase from the get-go for the initial build to get out of the way? I've heard it uses plastic diff pins for the spider gears? Is that something that should be upgraded right away? I haven't heard much in terms of overall durability, meaning that its tough out of the box but I feel like those diff pins should be steel.
deviltrigger529,

I've rebuilt my diffs a few times with the carbon cross-pins, no issue in my opinion.

You might consider an aluminum A-Block.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...kr5161/p443632
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Old 05-01-2016, 05:40 PM   #3537
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deviltrigger529,

I've rebuilt my diffs a few times with the carbon cross-pins, no issue in my opinion.

You might consider an aluminum A-Block.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...kr5161/p443632
Yeah I was looking more into it and its actually considered an improvement that they are boasting, so maybe I'll just give them a try. I'll keep the A-Block in mind, thanks.
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Old 05-01-2016, 05:50 PM   #3538
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Yeah I was looking more into it and its actually considered an improvement that they are boasting, so maybe I'll just give them a try. I'll keep the A-Block in mind, thanks.
Aluminum A block and servo horn.
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Old 05-01-2016, 05:51 PM   #3539
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Ah yes, almost forgot the servo horn! Thanks!
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Old 05-01-2016, 05:52 PM   #3540
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Yeah I was looking more into it and its actually considered an improvement that they are boasting, so maybe I'll just give them a try. I'll keep the A-Block in mind, thanks.
Aluminum"A"block is a must imo. The plastic diff pins in other hand are great, weight saving and tougher than they look. I've raced my car almost a year and a half with no issues with those pins.
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