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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 04-16-2016, 04:33 PM   #3421
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JConcepts "HF2 SCT" Low-Profile Short Course Truck Body

Rear mount- Having trouble finding the correct oem mount . Oem mounts are oval with optional offset . Mount area is round. Also straight up puts body to far forward IMO. The body mount area is not working well. Is there any off set tekno mount after market options ?
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Old 04-16-2016, 09:46 PM   #3422
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Originally Posted by weedsnager View Post
Drop screws are installed correctly. They are all the way up in the arms, not even touching the chassis
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Old 04-16-2016, 09:55 PM   #3423
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Originally Posted by SerpJimmy View Post
JConcepts "HF2 SCT" Low-Profile Short Course Truck Body

Rear mount- Having trouble finding the correct oem mount . Oem mounts are oval with optional offset . Mount area is round. Also straight up puts body to far forward IMO. The body mount area is not working well. Is there any off set tekno mount after market options ?
I had to do this.
https://m.facebook.com/groups/145567...21759221442328
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Old 04-16-2016, 09:56 PM   #3424
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Originally Posted by SerpJimmy View Post
JConcepts "HF2 SCT" Low-Profile Short Course Truck Body

Rear mount- Having trouble finding the correct oem mount . Oem mounts are oval with optional offset . Mount area is round. Also straight up puts body to far forward IMO. The body mount area is not working well. Is there any off set tekno mount after market options ?
If I understand what you are saying, to make my mounts flat, I heated them with a lighter and bent them that way
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Old 04-16-2016, 11:27 PM   #3425
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Originally Posted by SerpJimmy View Post
JConcepts "HF2 SCT" Low-Profile Short Course Truck Body

Rear mount- Having trouble finding the correct oem mount . Oem mounts are oval with optional offset . Mount area is round. Also straight up puts body to far forward IMO. The body mount area is not working well. Is there any off set tekno mount after market options ?
There should be a combination of mounts that will line up with the body dimples for the SCTE. Also, what's too far forward? The front of the body should be over and in front of the front bumper.
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Old 04-17-2016, 02:38 AM   #3426
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I'm making this post to recant my previous posts that we just need to get used to the weight distribution on this truck and it will make you faster. it may take a little bit of specific hardware...

There is a new jump at my track Dirt Burners in Livonia, its very parabolic and placed at a point on the straight where you have already been accelerating full throttle for a few seconds so gunning it on the face to keep the truck from nosing over isn't always possible.

When I was on top of it, and made sure to only half gas it leading up to the jump and then 100% throttle on the face, the truck jumps great and lands straight. when under duress, getting chased etc.. it might nose over more times than not. i moved the battery back with the normal mod, added two weight squares to the rear where the empty esc space is and it did help a lot but still nosed over at least every 3rd lap.

Then i got passed by another tekno 410.3 truck who was having no problems at all with the jump! needless to say i quickly went over to investigate after the race. i found some interesting things. (apart from the fact that this driver Gary Watts was a lot better than me, had a very high skill level).

1. we had a similar shock and damping setup - yea, he ran one spring stiffer than me in back and front, but its similar in damping also.
2. instead of my larger heavy 1/8th scale Novak Activ8 v2 ESC, he was running a tiny hobby wing light weight ESC.
3. instead of my tank 76 gram Sanwa servo he was running a light little beast of servo.
4. instead of my huge 8000maH pack, he had a much smaller pack.
5. same tires.
6. xerun lighter motor vs. my beast pro4 hd 4300.

I think it comes down to weight distribution in this truck. you can get away with the heavy front componets and heavy stick battery the track does not have a steep parabolic jump with a flat landing. there is NO correcting with full throttle with this truck, once its rotating forward i was toast.

in every other area on the track including all of the other big jumps and small my tekno 410.3 did very well, cornered great and gripped like a beast! i had a blast of course, but it can get frustrating!!

thoughts appreciated. thanks!! Jeff Check

Edit: I just ordered a 5000maH shorty pack to help put even more weight rearward. I'll let ya'll know if that helps.. no real need for the 8000mah battery unless its a 10min main. in a 5min hard qualifying I only burned up 2400 maH of energy. 7min is approximately 3400maH worst case.
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Old 04-17-2016, 06:19 AM   #3427
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Anyone else think of anything that I could have missed? Very frustrated, considering all the money I spend and I can't this truck setup right. This is the first kit I have built...could I have possibly put something together wrong?
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Old 04-17-2016, 06:38 AM   #3428
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Have you ever taken a q tip soaked in WD40 and cleared out the a arm holes after running?(After reaming them out of course) this made a huge difference in the driving feel for me.. And I haven't had an issue with ride height... Also, I don't know when you say there's no tension on the springs, are the collars all the way up? I have mine almost all the way up.
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Old 04-17-2016, 07:27 AM   #3429
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
There should be a combination of mounts that will line up with the body dimples for the SCTE. Also, what's too far forward? The front of the body should be over and in front of the front bumper.
I've been through the OEM mounts. Kinda limited for this particular body. Really dont like making a hack job out of things . Figurerd I would ask ...
Yep, The front mount is a NON issue. But , I kinda wanted to get the body as far back as possible to further balance front to rear. Without having bumper scratching away @ Body. Really on an eye ball ..

Plan as of today , Build up mount with something soft to take in ridge of body. Then partially cut of top of mount eliminating body pin. Then bore out for pro-line #6070-02 body mount cap. Using set screw with this kit to further extend top of body mount as needed..
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Old 04-17-2016, 07:29 AM   #3430
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Originally Posted by theboss13 View Post
If I understand what you are saying, to make my mounts flat, I heated them with a lighter and bent them that way
Def going to use this as Plan B. Tks Bud..
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Old 04-17-2016, 07:34 AM   #3431
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Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
Yea , thats the one ! Im going to try to avoid hacking away at mount. If I decide to change body down the road then ill need to by mounts again But cant say im ruling out the dremel at this point..
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Old 04-17-2016, 07:39 AM   #3432
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theboss13 View Post
Have you ever taken a q tip soaked in WD40 and cleared out the a arm holes after running?(After reaming them out of course) this made a huge difference in the driving feel for me.. And I haven't had an issue with ride height... Also, I don't know when you say there's no tension on the springs, are the collars all the way up? I have mine almost all the way up.
Truck has never been used, it's brand new.
Yes sir, the collars are all the way up
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Old 04-17-2016, 10:25 AM   #3433
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Originally Posted by weedsnager View Post
I'm almost done building. I have a few questions with the ride height and shock length. My shock lengths are Front-101, Rear-119, (measuring the mounting holes, right?) I have zero tension on the springs and the droop screws are all the way in, is it possible to make them longer? My ride height is Front-34 Rear-29, how do I lower the ride height since I have no tension on the shocks already ?
My set up is stock, with pink springs front and back, front shock oil is 40, 35 in rear
Been a issue for ALOT of people since the truck came out, more then likely nothing you are doing wrong.The springs will settle some after running it a bit but you still won't get low without shaving the shock collars real thin if using the longer springs like the pink's etc on the front. Do a search on this thread or the EB48SL thread and you will see it talked about a bunch. With that said some people seem to not have this issue so I don't know whats up for sure.......just know my stuff is built right and this is something I could not fix without modding the collars.
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Old 04-17-2016, 05:20 PM   #3434
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Originally Posted by weedsnager View Post
Anyone else think of anything that I could have missed? Very frustrated, considering all the money I spend and I can't this truck setup right. This is the first kit I have built...could I have possibly put something together wrong?
I am going to suggest you check your shock towers.
Chances are you have them wrong. Front on the rear, rear on the front.
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Old 04-17-2016, 11:15 PM   #3435
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Originally Posted by twistedneck View Post
I'm making this post to recant my previous posts that we just need to get used to the weight distribution on this truck and it will make you faster. it may take a little bit of specific hardware...

There is a new jump at my track Dirt Burners in Livonia, its very parabolic and placed at a point on the straight where you have already been accelerating full throttle for a few seconds so gunning it on the face to keep the truck from nosing over isn't always possible.

When I was on top of it, and made sure to only half gas it leading up to the jump and then 100% throttle on the face, the truck jumps great and lands straight. when under duress, getting chased etc.. it might nose over more times than not. i moved the battery back with the normal mod, added two weight squares to the rear where the empty esc space is and it did help a lot but still nosed over at least every 3rd lap.

Then i got passed by another tekno 410.3 truck who was having no problems at all with the jump! needless to say i quickly went over to investigate after the race. i found some interesting things. (apart from the fact that this driver Gary Watts was a lot better than me, had a very high skill level).

1. we had a similar shock and damping setup - yea, he ran one spring stiffer than me in back and front, but its similar in damping also.
2. instead of my larger heavy 1/8th scale Novak Activ8 v2 ESC, he was running a tiny hobby wing light weight ESC.
3. instead of my tank 76 gram Sanwa servo he was running a light little beast of servo.
4. instead of my huge 8000maH pack, he had a much smaller pack.
5. same tires.
6. xerun lighter motor vs. my beast pro4 hd 4300.

I think it comes down to weight distribution in this truck. you can get away with the heavy front componets and heavy stick battery the track does not have a steep parabolic jump with a flat landing. there is NO correcting with full throttle with this truck, once its rotating forward i was toast.

in every other area on the track including all of the other big jumps and small my tekno 410.3 did very well, cornered great and gripped like a beast! i had a blast of course, but it can get frustrating!!

thoughts appreciated. thanks!! Jeff Check

Edit: I just ordered a 5000maH shorty pack to help put even more weight rearward. I'll let ya'll know if that helps.. no real need for the 8000mah battery unless its a 10min main. in a 5min hard qualifying I only burned up 2400 maH of energy. 7min is approximately 3400maH worst case.
What gearing are you running on that motor? I've found that most people are often undergeared so they don't have the tire rotation speed to bring the truck back at all. The body you have mounted, and the air venting, with how forward and back it is, also drastically affect jumping. Stiffer front springs, when not slapping the rear, also help with jumping. Anti-squat adjustment also affects jumping a lot.

Compare the whole setup, not just a couple aspects.
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