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Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread

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Old 09-05-2022, 08:19 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: rustyus
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.




Hinge Pin Insert Chart:

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.





















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Old 04-08-2016, 09:05 PM
  #3376  
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I notice a little residual oil that comes out afterwards... it was not leaking.
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Old 04-08-2016, 09:25 PM
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46T spur:

Anyone else run this gear & have clearance issues between chassis & spur?
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Old 04-09-2016, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by SerpJimmy
46T spur:

Anyone else run this gear & have clearance issues between chassis & spur?
Only the nitros are set up to run the larger (higher tooth count) spur gears. They also use shims to raise the diff mounts to allow for it. I would've been surprised if you didn't have clearance issues running the larger spur on the SC.
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Old 04-09-2016, 03:49 PM
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I'm running the same set up tekin themselves run in there 410.3 .
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Old 04-09-2016, 05:23 PM
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Curious as to how stiff the lower arms on the front end should be, it seems stiff. Should it move freely or have some resistance? If the screws that I have shown in the last picture aren't very tight, it seems to free things up, shouldn't they be tight?


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Old 04-09-2016, 05:40 PM
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Most of the pivot press in balls on my truck were tight needed working in with a drill. As well as some hinge pins needing to be un snagged. Common practice..
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Old 04-09-2016, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by weedsnager
Curious as to how stiff the lower arms on the front end should be, it seems stiff. Should it move freely or have some resistance? If the screws that I have shown in the last picture aren't very tight, it seems to free things up, shouldn't they be tight?
Take a reamer to the arms. The bind after the limiting screws are put in.
A chainsaw round file is the same size, very effective and $1.00 locally. It is the 4mm size (or inch equivalent).
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Old 04-09-2016, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by weedsnager
Curious as to how stiff the lower arms on the front end should be, it seems stiff. Should it move freely or have some resistance? If the screws that I have shown in the last picture aren't very tight, it seems to free things up, shouldn't they be tight?


Looks like you have the spindle sleeves and the arm sleeves mixed up, 5554A and 5555A. The ones for the arms are longer.
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Old 04-09-2016, 09:45 PM
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I also ran into a problem with hinge pin inserts tkr5165 . When using a random hole insert location on one side of the hinge pin . I needed to end up using a insert on the other side of the arm that is pretty much in a straight line. Or it causes hinge pin to twist in the arm & get binding .
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Old 04-09-2016, 10:00 PM
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New build ? - ( Nose down advantage)
1. Anyone mess with cheating there esc back to further gain advantage over slamming it in the middle of mount?
2. Rather then cut rear of battery tray . Or purchase modified chassis . Maybe Just slot the tray and move entire tray back 10mm? Which I believe would lead to separating tray just behind battery & removing 10mm of mount for clearance ?? Hope i'm explaining right..
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Old 04-10-2016, 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni
Looks like you have the spindle sleeves and the arm sleeves mixed up, 5554A and 5555A. The ones for the arms are longer.
Exactly what the problem was...Thank you very much !!!!
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Old 04-10-2016, 08:06 AM
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For anyone who remembers the issue I had the with the RX8 Gen 2...Tekin responded with a brand new ESC! (Tekin rocks!) While the seller (from this forum) never bothered to respond period...boo!!! I should be back in action now, but the local track seems to be winding down for the season.
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Old 04-11-2016, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by fidelity101
For anyone who remembers the issue I had the with the RX8 Gen 2...Tekin responded with a brand new ESC! (Tekin rocks!) While the seller (from this forum) never bothered to respond period...boo!!! I should be back in action now, but the local track seems to be winding down for the season.
Outdoor season is just gearing up. Wolcott in Waterbury Connecticut this weekend, and RCM in Enfield CT was just last weekend. Barnstormers in Chester NY was also last weekend.
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Old 04-11-2016, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by SerpJimmy
New build ? - ( Nose down advantage)
1. Anyone mess with cheating there esc back to further gain advantage over slamming it in the middle of mount?
2. Rather then cut rear of battery tray . Or purchase modified chassis . Maybe Just slot the tray and move entire tray back 10mm? Which I believe would lead to separating tray just behind battery & removing 10mm of mount for clearance ?? Hope i'm explaining right..
My Activ8-V2 Novak ESC barely fits as it is. I don't think there is a big problem with forward weight. I've checked the weight distribution with a 2S-8000 battery and the heavy Novak ESC and my 76gram servo its 50/50 weight distribution.

At first, this seemed nose heavy but then I learned to work with it and I rarely land on the nose - only short super steep jumps that you have to take slowly because another set is coming, only those jumps present a slight issue because you can't correct it with throttle.

the benefits are huge, you can have a lot of rear grip, very heavy rear diff fluid yet still get excellent turn in. 50/50 weight distribution is the goal.. and this truck gets it right.
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Old 04-11-2016, 05:28 PM
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The problem im running into is ,, I went with a 3S set up & Im having problems finding Quality lipos that fit . Wanted to stay in the 5300mah - 5800mah range. Soft packs MAH are perfect. But the soft pack is to long to fit tray. Also, people are in my ear that im going to puncture. Which I find hard to believe. Hard case is limited to 5000mah or upper 6000mah +.
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