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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 03-19-2016, 06:06 PM   #3286
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You should try Jeremy McGuigan's setups, his settings does wonders for the Teknos handling.
He uses black springs f, yellow r, with 475 CST and 425 respectively.
He also does the battery mod, (moves it back 10mm) and runs white 6 hole 1.5 pistons inverted "cone pointed up".
This is a very planted setup that likes to turn.
Anyhow look up his setup sheet and follow it to the tee. Adjust from there to get the feel you like.

As for me, I run Pink front and rear, with 40f weight 35r and the truck feels really solid for me.
The tekno does feel really damp though, even when it's setup really good. It likes stiff. The SCTE 2.0 however, feels loose as a goose in comparison, yet both run good in their own worlds.
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Old 03-19-2016, 06:49 PM   #3287
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Well I finally got her built







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Old 03-19-2016, 09:04 PM   #3288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tps3443 View Post
When I build my shocks I run them with no oil whatsoever, and pack them with a little sand. This creates such a smooth ride.

Just kidding.

After a bash or race my Tekno SCT410.3 it is very squeaky or Creaky I can't explain it.. when I press on the chassis to compress the suspension checking for smoothness, or plushness it sounds like a old rocking chair. I take good care of my kit, and I am picky about everything. Clean it well. Rebuild the shocks every week or 2. Clean bearings every day on the car, and off car every week. I tear down and clean CVD's every 1 week to 2 weeks. Diffs are still tight and clean I've seen no reason to mess with them, as there like new. Very OCD about this thing.. meticulous about everything.

I sprayed a little Remington oil on it and it went away... What's going on?

My car is super clean right now, and plush and smooth, and quiet.

But, after tomorrow mornings 1st 30 minute beating, it will start to squeak and sound like a rocking chair. I don't understand.. is it hingpins??
Possibly. When I rebuild my rigs I make sure to clean all the a arm holes out as well the dirt in there can make some noise! Pipe cleaners work well there. I also inspect, clean and if necessary repack or replace all bearings.

Then I use a wax based dry lube that goes on wet but dries on the hinge pins and the cv joints. I use some Finish Line dry Teflon bike chain lube. It's the same stuff as what they sell you for RC car dry lube but half as cheap.
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Old 03-20-2016, 03:13 AM   #3289
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tps3443 View Post
When I build my shocks I run them with no oil whatsoever, and pack them with a little sand. This creates such a smooth ride.

Just kidding.

After a bash or race my Tekno SCT410.3 it is very squeaky or Creaky I can't explain it.. when I press on the chassis to compress the suspension checking for smoothness, or plushness it sounds like a old rocking chair. I take good care of my kit, and I am picky about everything. Clean it well. Rebuild the shocks every week or 2. Clean bearings every day on the car, and off car every week. I tear down and clean CVD's every 1 week to 2 weeks. Diffs are still tight and clean I've seen no reason to mess with them, as there like new. Very OCD about this thing.. meticulous about everything.

I sprayed a little Remington oil on it and it went away... What's going on?

My car is super clean right now, and plush and smooth, and quiet.

But, after tomorrow mornings 1st 30 minute beating, it will start to squeak and sound like a rocking chair. I don't understand.. is it hingpins??
Could it be the springs are rubbing on the shock metal when compressed? I have this, and it makes a little squeaking noise, no problem though
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Old 03-20-2016, 03:51 AM   #3290
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tps3443 View Post
When I build my shocks I run them with no oil whatsoever, and pack them with a little sand. This creates such a smooth ride.

Just kidding.

After a bash or race my Tekno SCT410.3 it is very squeaky or Creaky I can't explain it.. when I press on the chassis to compress the suspension checking for smoothness, or plushness it sounds like a old rocking chair. I take good care of my kit, and I am picky about everything. Clean it well. Rebuild the shocks every week or 2. Clean bearings every day on the car, and off car every week. I tear down and clean CVD's every 1 week to 2 weeks. Diffs are still tight and clean I've seen no reason to mess with them, as there like new. Very OCD about this thing.. meticulous about everything.

I sprayed a little Remington oil on it and it went away... What's going on?

My car is super clean right now, and plush and smooth, and quiet.

But, after tomorrow mornings 1st 30 minute beating, it will start to squeak and sound like a rocking chair. I don't understand.. is it hingpins??
FYI -only dyno oil can absorb into rubber and change it, silicone cannot. I wonder if its your shock O-rings absorbing some of the Remington oil? since they normally run silicone. mine creaks as well in the rear shock I have yet to take her apart yet. its only exposed to silicone.. hell, maybe the silicone is causing noises when dirty that the dyno oil changes by swelling the O-rings?
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Old 03-20-2016, 04:00 AM   #3291
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Originally Posted by Malazan View Post
Well I finally got her built
Bad ass Short course. You wont be disappointed example today we had a very small race so e-buggy got combed with 4wd short course. two trucks, five e-buggies. Obviously the two trucks were down on speed, 2S, 550 size motors, smaller tires with more sidewall, taller disposition and body, narrow wheel base and all.....

however, the Tekno held its own, whooped the Losi SCTE-2.0 and one of the e-buggies! in qualifying once it beat two of the e-buggies. So the truck is Read to Rock as Vaughn Gitten Jr. would say.

PS. are you running a 4300 Pro 4 550?
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Old 03-20-2016, 04:07 AM   #3292
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
You should try Jeremy McGuigan's setups, his settings does wonders for the Teknos handling.
He uses black springs f, yellow r, with 475 CST and 425 respectively.
He also does the battery mod, (moves it back 10mm) and runs white 6 hole 1.5 pistons inverted "cone pointed up".
This is a very planted setup that likes to turn.
Anyhow look up his setup sheet and follow it to the tee. Adjust from there to get the feel you like.

As for me, I run Pink front and rear, with 40f weight 35r and the truck feels really solid for me.
The tekno does feel really damp though, even when it's setup really good. It likes stiff. The SCTE 2.0 however, feels loose as a goose in comparison, yet both run good in their own worlds.
Question, why so stiff in back? I run the black front and pink rear and the pitch seems balanced and understeer balance is very free on hard braking in the back, going up to a yellow rear would make that rear end even more free under hard trail braking. I run symmetric 24mm F / 24mm R ride height - seems OK, but I am considering 25 front 24 rear just to sit the rear end down and brake while cornering when pushing it to the max..

also 45/40 oil is for huge jumps only - else it doesn't really move. on a colder fall day that is going to be like sludge. I run 25 front 30 rear, dropped the front more to gain some steering grip over the small bumps (all on the 6x1.5 tapered normal direction pistons). rear seems best w 30 weight. truck never bottoms but you need to drive it properly i.e. be very careful braking up to jumps.
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Old 03-20-2016, 11:10 AM   #3293
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twistedneck View Post
Question, why so stiff in back? I run the black front and pink rear and the pitch seems balanced and understeer balance is very free on hard braking in the back, going up to a yellow rear would make that rear end even more free under hard trail braking. I run symmetric 24mm F / 24mm R ride height - seems OK, but I am considering 25 front 24 rear just to sit the rear end down and brake while cornering when pushing it to the max..

also 45/40 oil is for huge jumps only - else it doesn't really move. on a colder fall day that is going to be like sludge. I run 25 front 30 rear, dropped the front more to gain some steering grip over the small bumps (all on the 6x1.5 tapered normal direction pistons). rear seems best w 30 weight. truck never bottoms but you need to drive it properly i.e. be very careful braking up to jumps.
You have a point on the ambient temps, but most know to make such changes according to weather I would think.
The setup guides are generally assuming your running heated indoor or summer outdoor I would suspect anyhow.
I also failed to mention I personally am running 10 hole stock pistons with those pink springs. We don't really get to race to much SCT outdoor around my home area unfortunately, so cold is usually not an issue from my standpoint.
I also typically like a stiffer setup than many, so that is why I like the way if feels with the pink rear springs, but that is subject to change.

If I where someone looking for a guide, I would trust Jeremy's setups a lot more that mine. He tends to stay within the 400 - 475 CST weight oil ranges with inverted 6h 1.5's regardless of where he is running.
Typically running black fronts, with a swap out of yellow or green rear springs for the most part.
But one thing that I do notice that still strikes me strange from what I read on the forums is, not one pro that I have seen a winning setup sheet from runs a thicker oil in the rear. I still don't understand why some of you guys do this.
But if it works for you, I can't argue that really.
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Old 03-20-2016, 01:21 PM   #3294
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twistedneck View Post
Bad ass Short course. You wont be disappointed example today we had a very small race so e-buggy got combed with 4wd short course. two trucks, five e-buggies. Obviously the two trucks were down on speed, 2S, 550 size motors, smaller tires with more sidewall, taller disposition and body, narrow wheel base and all.....

however, the Tekno held its own, whooped the Losi SCTE-2.0 and one of the e-buggies! in qualifying once it beat two of the e-buggies. So the truck is Read to Rock as Vaughn Gitten Jr. would say.

PS. are you running a 4300 Pro 4 550?

No, I'm running a Pro 4 HD 3000kv with 3s
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Old 03-20-2016, 03:08 PM   #3295
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I didn't want to go through 220 pages. But I just ordered a 410.3 and was wondering what everyone ran for bodies and electronics
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Old 03-20-2016, 05:23 PM   #3296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
You should try Jeremy McGuigan's setups, his settings does wonders for the Teknos handling.
He uses black springs f, yellow r, with 475 CST and 425 respectively.
He also does the battery mod, (moves it back 10mm) and runs white 6 hole 1.5 pistons inverted "cone pointed up".
This is a very planted setup that likes to turn.
Anyhow look up his setup sheet and follow it to the tee. Adjust from there to get the feel you like.

As for me, I run Pink front and rear, with 40f weight 35r and the truck feels really solid for me.
The tekno does feel really damp though, even when it's setup really good. It likes stiff. The SCTE 2.0 however, feels loose as a goose in comparison, yet both run good in their own worlds.
What date setup are you taking those specs from ? I might have a different setup sheet cause my Mcguigan sheet has different specs .
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Old 03-20-2016, 06:08 PM   #3297
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Originally Posted by SerpJimmy View Post
What date setup are you taking those specs from ? I might have a different setup sheet cause my Mcguigan sheet has different specs .
I'll ask him for his latest sheet to have a look at and will post it up
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Old 03-21-2016, 12:36 PM   #3298
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Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
I'll ask him for his latest sheet to have a look at and will post it up
Yea that would be real cool Josh.....
He does run a different chassis. Think that would have any difference if you are running stock chassis?
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Old 03-21-2016, 02:13 PM   #3299
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Originally Posted by taz169 View Post
Yea that would be real cool Josh.....
He does run a different chassis. Think that would have any difference if you are running stock chassis?
Yes, he runs the M2C chassis, which already accounts for the battery back position, and is a bit lighter I believe. But otherwise I feel like the stock plate shouldn't deter over all performance if you do the mod.
I did talk to him however, and he said he was going to get a new sheet laid out sometime tonight. When he gets it done, I will post it up.
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Old 03-21-2016, 04:24 PM   #3300
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Re: battery mod

So am I correct in thinking the oem 410.3 chassis can be re-bored with same results as the m2c?

Last edited by SerpJimmy; 03-21-2016 at 07:40 PM.
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