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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 03-17-2016, 01:22 PM   #3271
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Originally Posted by mikeinsocal View Post
On the shock rebound issue, I run emulsion myself so not speaking from experience but I have seen from time to time that air will enter the shock through the o-rings at the bottom of the shock body in the cartridge. Maybe just check that everything is seated properly in the ones that are giving you a problem and the o-rings are not torn. Sometimes they can get a tare from the thread on the shaft during installation. Good luck figuring it out and let us know what you find.
yep , thats exactly what happens with traxxas shocks..
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Old 03-17-2016, 01:33 PM   #3272
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Default Saint Patti's day build ?

Hey,, i got a new build going on. Ya know theres going to be some Q's ..
Heres 1.
RE: Rear hub/cva assembly

Clearance between tkr5545 rear hub & tkr5571m Wheel hex. Im coming up with .015 left side & .018 Right . In seems a bit excessive . Was thinking more like .005 - .007. with wheel attached. You guys shimming ? Shims that fit? leave alone ?
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Old 03-17-2016, 10:47 PM   #3273
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When I build my shocks I run them with no oil whatsoever, and pack them with a little sand. This creates such a smooth ride.

Just kidding.

After a bash or race my Tekno SCT410.3 it is very squeaky or Creaky I can't explain it.. when I press on the chassis to compress the suspension checking for smoothness, or plushness it sounds like a old rocking chair. I take good care of my kit, and I am picky about everything. Clean it well. Rebuild the shocks every week or 2. Clean bearings every day on the car, and off car every week. I tear down and clean CVD's every 1 week to 2 weeks. Diffs are still tight and clean I've seen no reason to mess with them, as there like new. Very OCD about this thing.. meticulous about everything.

I sprayed a little Remington oil on it and it went away... What's going on?

My car is super clean right now, and plush and smooth, and quiet.

But, after tomorrow mornings 1st 30 minute beating, it will start to squeak and sound like a rocking chair. I don't understand.. is it hingpins??
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Old 03-18-2016, 12:31 AM   #3274
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Folks are talking about shock building, so...here's Ryan Lutz and Tekno showing how they do it. My way is a little different, but this should work for you and I haven't shot my video on shocks yet to show my alternate method.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 03-18-2016, 12:37 AM   #3275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SerpJimmy View Post
Hey,, i got a new build going on. Ya know theres going to be some Q's ..
Heres 1.
RE: Rear hub/cva assembly

Clearance between tkr5545 rear hub & tkr5571m Wheel hex. Im coming up with .015 left side & .018 Right . In seems a bit excessive . Was thinking more like .005 - .007. with wheel attached. You guys shimming ? Shims that fit? leave alone ?
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr1230-...m-shims-10pcs/
Those are the ones that come with the clamping hexes if you feel there is enough play to shim. I've had to on one of my vehicles, but not on the others.
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Old 03-18-2016, 01:10 AM   #3276
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Originally Posted by tps3443 View Post
When I build my shocks I run them with no oil whatsoever, and pack them with a little sand. This creates such a smooth ride.

You should try packing them with butter instead, it gives this smooth buttery feeling
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Old 03-18-2016, 01:11 AM   #3277
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justpoet View Post
Folks are talking about shock building, so...here's Ryan Lutz and Tekno showing how they do it. My way is a little different, but this should work for you and I haven't shot my video on shocks yet to show my alternate method.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
Justpoet, Thanks!
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Old 03-18-2016, 01:14 AM   #3278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeinsocal View Post
On the shock rebound issue, I run emulsion myself so not speaking from experience but I have seen from time to time that air will enter the shock through the o-rings at the bottom of the shock body in the cartridge. Maybe just check that everything is seated properly in the ones that are giving you a problem and the o-rings are not torn. Sometimes they can get a tare from the thread on the shaft during installation. Good luck figuring it out and let us know what you find.
I have just ordered new parts from amain (all alu part and delrin parts). I will also replace orings etc. So if it dont fix the problem I might convert to emulsion I will let you guys know as soon as I get the new stuff
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Old 03-18-2016, 03:35 AM   #3279
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Originally Posted by justpoet View Post
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr1230-...m-shims-10pcs/
Those are the ones that come with the clamping hexes if you feel there is enough play to shim. I've had to on one of my vehicles, but not on the others.
Is there a actual clearance spec that I'm shimming for ? It sounds like this is going to an eyeball ..
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Old 03-18-2016, 08:48 AM   #3280
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Originally Posted by Snorkel54 View Post
You should try packing them with butter instead, it gives this smooth buttery feeling
I started in this hobby when I was 9 years old. I've used cooking oil before in shocks, believe it was a traxxas stampede.
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Old 03-18-2016, 09:07 AM   #3281
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I started in this hobby when I was 9 years old. I've used cooking oil before in shocks, believe it was a traxxas stampede.
One of my buddies says he used ketchup and it did pretty good.
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Old 03-18-2016, 10:36 AM   #3282
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One of my buddies says he used ketchup and it did pretty good.
Only Original "Award Winning" Ranch dressing for me. It's why I win awards so often for sure!
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Old 03-18-2016, 10:39 AM   #3283
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Originally Posted by SerpJimmy View Post
Is there a actual clearance spec that I'm shimming for ? It sounds like this is going to an eyeball ..
There isn't a measurement spec for a racer, no. Basically you want a little bit of movement, but not a lot. I like to think of it like gear mesh where it is whatever runs smooth for you. I tend to go as tight as I can with shims without making it so it won't move at all, because I want the shaft to be able to move a little bit rather than the only thing that gets forced to move being the bearing race. You may find that as you run a bit, this will change, based on bearings getting looser, the plastics having the bearings sit into them a bit further, etc... It won't be much, but if you're trying to be as precise as you are, you may see it even if you don't feel it on the track.
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Old 03-18-2016, 12:28 PM   #3284
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I kinda got that feeling that it's a rough idea when I saw the size of the shim available.... Can always take the shim down a few thou... Tks bud...
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Old 03-19-2016, 03:15 PM   #3285
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I rebuilt my shocks, I pretty much took everything apart and washed it all in dawn soap. Then I dried everything off, and reassembled using AE green slime . I am still using the stock springs, and I used AE 37.5wt front, and 27.5wt rear.

I feel as if the setup is overly dampened . I can press the car down, while they are quite smooth . The car will barley lift back up. I am having to run about 10 full rotations of front rebound, and 24 full rotations of rear rebound.

What is a good spring, oil, setup to get my car in a good shock setup again?

It's to damp.. should I increase the spring rate?
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