219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
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03-14-2016, 07:13 AM
#3241
Tech Initiate
Ken what did you do to hold that EB48 body on to the truck?
03-14-2016, 09:07 AM
#3242
But compared to what exactly?
In their defense, Tekin does have top shelf program-ability features and keeps things smaller and lighter.
However with the advent of the feel and abilities generated from the new XR8 hobbywing has released as their newest flagship ESC, I don't even feel like that is any longer relevant to the argument in the performance department.
I guess what blows me away more than anything is why people gravitate toward a company that over charges for inefficient systems from which an SCT-pro combo 4700KV motor ESC deal from HW can and will suck the doors off a pro-4 setup for half the price? Provided you have and truly know how to set up a radio's programming features, "other than the timing" you can do everything you need to without even needing to program an ESC through it's UI anyhow. Calibrate it and roll on!
Now either my system is a freak, or there is a reason I have set plenty of fast lap records on my local tracks against Tekins.
Never had a single failure either. Not so much as a hiccup.
With full certainty I can say my stuff is going to be considerably cooler, proving the inefficiencies of the other.
I am not sponsored by anyone, so I have zero reason to support anything that isn't true to my experience.
Last edited by Josh L; 03-14-2016 at 09:24 AM.
03-14-2016, 12:06 PM
#3243
People have been asking me about the inverted shock pistons when I mention them or they have seen them on some newer setup sheets.
To be honest I have no scientific or absolute proofs of what I am about to say, but in much discussion of this subject with my good friend Jeremy McGuigan and listening to his testimonial of performance advantages, I have some theories based on why the inverted pistons are an improvement in handling over the more traditional thought of what effects are optimal in action.
First off it's worthy to note the fact these pistons are different in design that your typical flat types, utilizing a conical center that tapers up and outwards.
This was a very simple and ingenious design in my mind, because it should better direct oil flow toward the outside more evenly when the cone is pushing through the oil pointed side first, while at the same time sorta generating a turbulent "back-draft parachuting effect" when being pulled in the opposite direction. (oil being pocketed into the center cones recess side)
Seems to me by design, this would be the first single stage piston example that would actually have a consistently noticeable felt effect without requiring a more complex two stage design.
IE. VRP or MIP types which promote a quicker rebound.
Against popular belief, it has been more or less proven by shock dyno testing that just tapering the holes on a flat piston is nearly negligible in variance from a similar sized straight bored hole, regardless of taper direction.
I believe the only reason tapper holes convince people they feel like they slip better on the rebound is because the taper does little more than simply reduce the inner flow travel-way's volume, effectively making the piston feel like it's thinner all together.
Pretty much the same thing as just going with a slightly larger bore to begin with.
Alternately, it has been a general consensus that a quicker rebound is optimal for regaining individual tire plant quicker, and that is exactly what it does.
Gets the tires down really quick...
That would seem optimal in theory right, knowing you would be getting tread on the dirt quicker? I was sold on the idea of that concept.
After all, VRP pistons are very close to what actual dirt bikes run and benefit from and that is one of the main selling point of functional ability for them, 'seeing the significant improvements with motocross.
But when I had heard the steadfast claims Jeremy and others who are now running their tekno pistons inverted where saying and realizing one really can't argue a thing that is a felt improvement backed with proven time sheets, I was forced to reconsider the factors of the entire concept.
Jeremy reports a considerable stability "a planted feel" gain.
I believe I understand why this is the case with our SCT's.
Unlike a dirt bike suspension where rebound is critical to get that drive wheel back on the dirt, we are dealing with 3 more driving tires individually suspended from the same chassis, along with a plethora of other factors
that would certainly effect things differently.
By slowing the rebound and allowing the compression stroke to slide though it's motion with less restrictive resistance throughout, you would see a lower ride height around a turn since it can now get down and stay down more efficiently, which would also allow the other tires to fall more in concession with each other in a simultaneous fashion, acting as a more rigid platform, rather than each individual tire racing back to earth as quickly as possible that can cause a "light on the toes" floating effect that promotes suspension lifting, especially during inertial weight transfers from things like acceleration and hard cornering.
Noting things like a higher CG, long droop and 4x4 power transfer, a fast rebound is not always optimal like it would be with a 2wd or dirt bike chassis, and it can very well cause the tires to ride on top of a track, rather than allowing it to settle down into a groove.
Regardless of whether your subscribe to what I am saying here or not, the fact is it will help your truck stay settled and planted more consistently throughout a lap.
What has been working beautifully for me is the 6 hole 1.5's on losi 40wt front with 35wt rear, pink spring all around with the far better balance you get from the battery mod.
Just try it for yourself and you'll instantly find what you've been missing with this truck.
To be honest I have no scientific or absolute proofs of what I am about to say, but in much discussion of this subject with my good friend Jeremy McGuigan and listening to his testimonial of performance advantages, I have some theories based on why the inverted pistons are an improvement in handling over the more traditional thought of what effects are optimal in action.
First off it's worthy to note the fact these pistons are different in design that your typical flat types, utilizing a conical center that tapers up and outwards.
This was a very simple and ingenious design in my mind, because it should better direct oil flow toward the outside more evenly when the cone is pushing through the oil pointed side first, while at the same time sorta generating a turbulent "back-draft parachuting effect" when being pulled in the opposite direction. (oil being pocketed into the center cones recess side)
Seems to me by design, this would be the first single stage piston example that would actually have a consistently noticeable felt effect without requiring a more complex two stage design.
IE. VRP or MIP types which promote a quicker rebound.
Against popular belief, it has been more or less proven by shock dyno testing that just tapering the holes on a flat piston is nearly negligible in variance from a similar sized straight bored hole, regardless of taper direction.
I believe the only reason tapper holes convince people they feel like they slip better on the rebound is because the taper does little more than simply reduce the inner flow travel-way's volume, effectively making the piston feel like it's thinner all together.
Pretty much the same thing as just going with a slightly larger bore to begin with.
Alternately, it has been a general consensus that a quicker rebound is optimal for regaining individual tire plant quicker, and that is exactly what it does.
Gets the tires down really quick...
That would seem optimal in theory right, knowing you would be getting tread on the dirt quicker? I was sold on the idea of that concept.
After all, VRP pistons are very close to what actual dirt bikes run and benefit from and that is one of the main selling point of functional ability for them, 'seeing the significant improvements with motocross.
But when I had heard the steadfast claims Jeremy and others who are now running their tekno pistons inverted where saying and realizing one really can't argue a thing that is a felt improvement backed with proven time sheets, I was forced to reconsider the factors of the entire concept.
Jeremy reports a considerable stability "a planted feel" gain.
I believe I understand why this is the case with our SCT's.
Unlike a dirt bike suspension where rebound is critical to get that drive wheel back on the dirt, we are dealing with 3 more driving tires individually suspended from the same chassis, along with a plethora of other factors
that would certainly effect things differently.
By slowing the rebound and allowing the compression stroke to slide though it's motion with less restrictive resistance throughout, you would see a lower ride height around a turn since it can now get down and stay down more efficiently, which would also allow the other tires to fall more in concession with each other in a simultaneous fashion, acting as a more rigid platform, rather than each individual tire racing back to earth as quickly as possible that can cause a "light on the toes" floating effect that promotes suspension lifting, especially during inertial weight transfers from things like acceleration and hard cornering.
Noting things like a higher CG, long droop and 4x4 power transfer, a fast rebound is not always optimal like it would be with a 2wd or dirt bike chassis, and it can very well cause the tires to ride on top of a track, rather than allowing it to settle down into a groove.
Regardless of whether your subscribe to what I am saying here or not, the fact is it will help your truck stay settled and planted more consistently throughout a lap.
What has been working beautifully for me is the 6 hole 1.5's on losi 40wt front with 35wt rear, pink spring all around with the far better balance you get from the battery mod.
Just try it for yourself and you'll instantly find what you've been missing with this truck.
03-14-2016, 12:59 PM
#3244
Tech Adept
I believe you when you say you've had a good experience with them, and I am sure plenty have had good experiences like yourself and poet.
But compared to what exactly?
In their defense, Tekin does have top shelf program-ability features and keeps things smaller and lighter.
However with the advent of the feel and abilities generated from the new XR8 hobbywing has released as their newest flagship ESC, I don't even feel like that is any longer relevant to the argument in the performance department.
I guess what blows me away more than anything is why people gravitate toward a company that over charges for inefficient systems from which an SCT-pro combo 4700KV motor ESC deal from HW can and will suck the doors off a pro-4 setup for half the price? Provided you have and truly know how to set up a radio's programming features, "other than the timing" you can do everything you need to without even needing to program an ESC through it's UI anyhow. Calibrate it and roll on!
Now either my system is a freak, or there is a reason I have set plenty of fast lap records on my local tracks against Tekins.
Never had a single failure either. Not so much as a hiccup.
With full certainty I can say my stuff is going to be considerably cooler, proving the inefficiencies of the other.
I am not sponsored by anyone, so I have zero reason to support anything that isn't true to my experience.
But compared to what exactly?
In their defense, Tekin does have top shelf program-ability features and keeps things smaller and lighter.
However with the advent of the feel and abilities generated from the new XR8 hobbywing has released as their newest flagship ESC, I don't even feel like that is any longer relevant to the argument in the performance department.
I guess what blows me away more than anything is why people gravitate toward a company that over charges for inefficient systems from which an SCT-pro combo 4700KV motor ESC deal from HW can and will suck the doors off a pro-4 setup for half the price? Provided you have and truly know how to set up a radio's programming features, "other than the timing" you can do everything you need to without even needing to program an ESC through it's UI anyhow. Calibrate it and roll on!
Now either my system is a freak, or there is a reason I have set plenty of fast lap records on my local tracks against Tekins.
Never had a single failure either. Not so much as a hiccup.
With full certainty I can say my stuff is going to be considerably cooler, proving the inefficiencies of the other.
I am not sponsored by anyone, so I have zero reason to support anything that isn't true to my experience.
03-14-2016, 01:00 PM
#3245
People have been asking me about the inverted shock pistons when I mention them or they have seen them on some newer setup sheets.
To be honest I have no scientific or absolute proofs of what I am about to say, but in much discussion of this subject with my good friend Jeremy McGuigan and listening to his testimonial of performance advantages, I have some theories based on why the inverted pistons are an improvement in handling over the more traditional thought of what effects are optimal in action.
First off it's worthy to note the fact these pistons are different in design that your typical flat types, utilizing a conical center that tapers up and outwards.
This was a very simple and ingenious design in my mind, because it should better direct oil flow toward the outside more evenly when the cone is pushing through the oil pointed side first, while at the same time sorta generating a turbulent "back-draft parachuting effect" when being pulled in the opposite direction. (oil being pocketed into the center cones recess side)
Seems to me by design, this would be the first single stage piston example that would actually have a consistently noticeable felt effect without requiring a more complex two stage design.
IE. VRP or MIP types which promote a quicker rebound.
Against popular belief, it has been more or less proven by shock dyno testing that just tapering the holes on a flat piston is nearly negligible in variance from a similar sized straight bored hole, regardless of taper direction.
I believe the only reason tapper holes convince people they feel like they slip better on the rebound is because the taper does little more than simply reduce the inner flow travel-way's volume, effectively making the piston feel like it's thinner all together.
Pretty much the same thing as just going with a slightly larger bore to begin with.
Alternately, it has been a general consensus that a quicker rebound is optimal for regaining individual tire plant quicker, and that is exactly what it does.
Gets the tires down really quick...
That would seem optimal in theory right, knowing you would be getting tread on the dirt quicker? I was sold on the idea of that concept.
After all, VRP pistons are very close to what actual dirt bikes run and benefit from and that is one of the main selling point of functional ability for them, 'seeing the significant improvements with motocross.
But when I had heard the steadfast claims Jeremy and others who are now running their tekno pistons inverted where saying and realizing one really can't argue a thing that is a felt improvement backed with proven time sheets, I was forced to reconsider the factors of the entire concept.
Jeremy reports a considerable stability "a planted feel" gain.
I believe I understand why this is the case with our SCT's.
Unlike a dirt bike suspension where rebound is critical to get that drive wheel back on the dirt, we are dealing with 3 more driving tires individually suspended from the same chassis, along with a plethora of other factors
that would certainly effect things differently.
By slowing the rebound and allowing the compression stroke to slide though it's motion with less restrictive resistance throughout, you would see a lower ride height around a turn since it can now get down and stay down more efficiently, which would also allow the other tires to fall more in concession with each other in a simultaneous fashion, acting as a more rigid platform, rather than each individual tire racing back to earth as quickly as possible that can cause a "light on the toes" floating effect that promotes suspension lifting, especially during inertial weight transfers from things like acceleration and hard cornering.
Noting things like a higher CG, long droop and 4x4 power transfer, a fast rebound is not always optimal like it would be with a 2wd or dirt bike chassis, and it can very well cause the tires to ride on top of a track, rather than allowing it to settle down into a groove.
Regardless of whether your subscribe to what I am saying here or not, the fact is it will help your truck stay settled and planted more consistently throughout a lap.
What has been working beautifully for me is the 6 hole 1.5's on losi 40wt front with 35wt rear, pink spring all around with the far better balance you get from the battery mod.
Just try it for yourself and you'll instantly find what you've been missing with this truck.
To be honest I have no scientific or absolute proofs of what I am about to say, but in much discussion of this subject with my good friend Jeremy McGuigan and listening to his testimonial of performance advantages, I have some theories based on why the inverted pistons are an improvement in handling over the more traditional thought of what effects are optimal in action.
First off it's worthy to note the fact these pistons are different in design that your typical flat types, utilizing a conical center that tapers up and outwards.
This was a very simple and ingenious design in my mind, because it should better direct oil flow toward the outside more evenly when the cone is pushing through the oil pointed side first, while at the same time sorta generating a turbulent "back-draft parachuting effect" when being pulled in the opposite direction. (oil being pocketed into the center cones recess side)
Seems to me by design, this would be the first single stage piston example that would actually have a consistently noticeable felt effect without requiring a more complex two stage design.
IE. VRP or MIP types which promote a quicker rebound.
Against popular belief, it has been more or less proven by shock dyno testing that just tapering the holes on a flat piston is nearly negligible in variance from a similar sized straight bored hole, regardless of taper direction.
I believe the only reason tapper holes convince people they feel like they slip better on the rebound is because the taper does little more than simply reduce the inner flow travel-way's volume, effectively making the piston feel like it's thinner all together.
Pretty much the same thing as just going with a slightly larger bore to begin with.
Alternately, it has been a general consensus that a quicker rebound is optimal for regaining individual tire plant quicker, and that is exactly what it does.
Gets the tires down really quick...
That would seem optimal in theory right, knowing you would be getting tread on the dirt quicker? I was sold on the idea of that concept.
After all, VRP pistons are very close to what actual dirt bikes run and benefit from and that is one of the main selling point of functional ability for them, 'seeing the significant improvements with motocross.
But when I had heard the steadfast claims Jeremy and others who are now running their tekno pistons inverted where saying and realizing one really can't argue a thing that is a felt improvement backed with proven time sheets, I was forced to reconsider the factors of the entire concept.
Jeremy reports a considerable stability "a planted feel" gain.
I believe I understand why this is the case with our SCT's.
Unlike a dirt bike suspension where rebound is critical to get that drive wheel back on the dirt, we are dealing with 3 more driving tires individually suspended from the same chassis, along with a plethora of other factors
that would certainly effect things differently.
By slowing the rebound and allowing the compression stroke to slide though it's motion with less restrictive resistance throughout, you would see a lower ride height around a turn since it can now get down and stay down more efficiently, which would also allow the other tires to fall more in concession with each other in a simultaneous fashion, acting as a more rigid platform, rather than each individual tire racing back to earth as quickly as possible that can cause a "light on the toes" floating effect that promotes suspension lifting, especially during inertial weight transfers from things like acceleration and hard cornering.
Noting things like a higher CG, long droop and 4x4 power transfer, a fast rebound is not always optimal like it would be with a 2wd or dirt bike chassis, and it can very well cause the tires to ride on top of a track, rather than allowing it to settle down into a groove.
Regardless of whether your subscribe to what I am saying here or not, the fact is it will help your truck stay settled and planted more consistently throughout a lap.
What has been working beautifully for me is the 6 hole 1.5's on losi 40wt front with 35wt rear, pink spring all around with the far better balance you get from the battery mod.
Just try it for yourself and you'll instantly find what you've been missing with this truck.
This is very interesting information. For the last couple of months I have been struggling with finding a good high traction setup that would calm my truck down and help prevent the sudden traction roll. After reviewing quite a few pro driver sct410.3 set up sheets I decided to give Daniel Lewis's set up a shot, this setup happens to have inverted pistons
. At first glance, this set up looked like it would be way off, but I had nothing to loose as I was going to make the truck work or sell it and buy a different platform, so I went ahead and gave this set up a shot. Let me tell you I was pleasantly surprised as this is the best my truck has ever felt. While the setup was not 100% perfect ( a little nose up jumping attitude) it was really really close and was super stable and a blast to drive. Here is the setup I used.http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...Lewis_SDRC.pdf
So Josh I curious what type of track you run on?
03-14-2016, 01:40 PM
#3246
Hey everyone, my stock A brace broke. I just ordered the Aluminum V2 A brace. When my plastic stock one broke I lost one of the box stock setup hinge pin holders.
I will have to run a different front hingepin setup.
Any suggestions. The stock setup was a center dot. But the left one is completely gone still inside the piece of broke off A brace.
I also plan on rebuilding my shocks again, the rears feel gritty? It drives me nuts. Fronts are still quite smooth.
I still have all my other hinge pin holders which should I run?
I ordered some AE green slime, and AE 37.5 front shock Earl, and 27.5 rear shock Earl. I will have the shocks back smooth again in no time. I think the back shock are getting sand blasted while driving the truck.
BTW, my RX8 Gen 2 has been flawless! It is very smart, it wouldn't arm the motor once and the codes it flashed, indicated the throttle adjustment was out on the radio, kids playing with my radio. I turned it back down some, and beep it armed it self! Great ESC! Couldn't be happier with Tekin right now, it was well worth the $213 with tax
I will have to run a different front hingepin setup.
Any suggestions. The stock setup was a center dot. But the left one is completely gone still inside the piece of broke off A brace.
I also plan on rebuilding my shocks again, the rears feel gritty? It drives me nuts. Fronts are still quite smooth.
I still have all my other hinge pin holders which should I run?
I ordered some AE green slime, and AE 37.5 front shock Earl, and 27.5 rear shock Earl. I will have the shocks back smooth again in no time. I think the back shock are getting sand blasted while driving the truck.
BTW, my RX8 Gen 2 has been flawless! It is very smart, it wouldn't arm the motor once and the codes it flashed, indicated the throttle adjustment was out on the radio, kids playing with my radio. I turned it back down some, and beep it armed it self! Great ESC! Couldn't be happier with Tekin right now, it was well worth the $213 with tax
Last edited by tps3443; 03-14-2016 at 01:52 PM.
03-14-2016, 04:24 PM
#3247
Tech Initiate
Josh what locations are you running your shocks on the front and rear tower and the front and rear arms. I have those pistons but in on the tower and not the outer most on the arm I had a hard time getting them to pack... And can anyone tell me if a long link causes more roll or less roll. In the past week I have heard long link on the rear will cause more roll and just as many say a long link will roll less. I know the difference in camber gain but what link will cause more or less chassis roll. Thanks for the info Josh on the pistons...
03-14-2016, 04:24 PM
#3248
I've got a itch for this motor, Trinity Revtech 4XS 7,200KV 4 Pole motor.
Geared with 17t pinion, stock 44t spur on 2S batteries this truck would run over 60MPH with this 7,200KV motor.
Don't want or need that speed but I would gear way down like 10 or 11 tooth pinion for massive smooth torque.
I run a Trinity Zombie 545 4850kv and it has been great! Also use a Tekin Pro4 4600KV
So, anyone running the 7200kv Trinity Revtech?
Geared with 17t pinion, stock 44t spur on 2S batteries this truck would run over 60MPH with this 7,200KV motor.
Don't want or need that speed but I would gear way down like 10 or 11 tooth pinion for massive smooth torque.
I run a Trinity Zombie 545 4850kv and it has been great! Also use a Tekin Pro4 4600KV
So, anyone running the 7200kv Trinity Revtech?
03-14-2016, 08:46 PM
#3249
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Hey everyone, my stock A brace broke. I just ordered the Aluminum V2 A brace. When my plastic stock one broke I lost one of the box stock setup hinge pin holders.
I will have to run a different front hingepin setup.
Any suggestions. The stock setup was a center dot. But the left one is completely gone still inside the piece of broke off A brace.
I will have to run a different front hingepin setup.
Any suggestions. The stock setup was a center dot. But the left one is completely gone still inside the piece of broke off A brace.
03-14-2016, 09:28 PM
#3250
Not sure if it does or not. But I am not really sure what the adjustments will do.center dot was the box standard build, is all.
03-15-2016, 12:14 AM
#3251
Mostly just Valley Short Course Tracks, small medium outdoor, some hard pack and others loose and loamy. There is a lot of variance to deal with on those tracks, so you have to do a lot of setup change if you want to perform right on each.
I used to run at the "Tilt Yard" some years back when I was young.
One of the very best and most extreme tracks on the EC.
Unfortunately that track is restricted to only a few big 1/8 events per year from what I understand.
Oddly enough, the fella who owns it is name Homer as well.
Medium to low bite hard pack and loam between the three I run on most.
I have tried and will run the stock
I am actually setting stock front with a hole outside on the upper rear.
But I don't think my telling you this will matter to be honest. I find so much variance in setups per driver's style and preferences can be a major difference and still do well. Things like roll centers, antisquat, rake and stuff tend to be something you have to feel out while running on the track. You should experiment a lot and realize your going to do a lot of things that will negatively affect your setup before your going to start figuring out the precise adjustments and how they each affects the overall.
Setting up a chassis correctly can be very complex and difficult to get the swing of due to the fact everything has an effect on everything else, some more with certain things than others. Sometimes when you get lucky, you might do something that sees no or an improved reaction on another thing.
But it can be more simplified once you find a good starting base. That part is critical to easing the process.
The setup I provided is superior to stock setup and will get on your way in just about any condition.
Just remember when you do follow a setup sheet a pro post, you have to follow that setup to a 100% tee. One little thing different could easily blow the whole thing up to the point of disaster. From there you always make very small and singular adjustments until you find that feel you like, then stop and run it for a bit before you start messing with things again. Sometimes you will find you actually like the way it was handling before once you run an altered setup for a while.
But to get to the point.
The stock pistons are 10 hole 1.2... These only have enough pack when oiled with 35-40wt from the get go I think.
They have less pack than the 6 hole 1.5's mentioned with similar over all travel rates.
The battery mod will allow you to come back in with some antisquat and improve the jump attitude while helping rear bite.
The way I think of pistons is like this>
Hole count could be thought of as initial reaction, (more or less pack) with hole bore sizes thought of as the effective soft or rigidness felt through the entirety of the stroke. If you bottom out, use less holes before you try reducing volume. One you have just enough pack, then you can start playing with the flow. This all taking into account your running 35 weight as a starting place. You really don't ever need less weight that that for the way the 410 handles with it's weight.
As for roll centers, it is basically just your positions on the towers, being upper holes are less roll and lower holes are more.
Shorter links increases steering and decreases stability into corner. With slight on power gain
(Twitchy)
Longer link will increase stability and make the truck less responsive. (Easier to drive)
Starting with longer links that are mounted in the middle is generally a good starting point.
Unless your following a setup sheet once again, this has to be followed to the tee to see the results gained from said pro's setup.
I used to run at the "Tilt Yard" some years back when I was young.
One of the very best and most extreme tracks on the EC.
Unfortunately that track is restricted to only a few big 1/8 events per year from what I understand.
Oddly enough, the fella who owns it is name Homer as well.
This is very interesting information. For the last couple of months I have been struggling with finding a good high traction setup that would calm my truck down and help prevent the sudden traction roll. After reviewing quite a few pro driver sct410.3 set up sheets I decided to give Daniel Lewis's set up a shot, this setup happens to have inverted pistons. At first glance, this set up looked like it would be way off, but I had nothing to loose as I was going to make the truck work or sell it and buy a different platform, so I went ahead and gave this set up a shot. Let me tell you I was pleasantly surprised as this is the best my truck has ever felt. While the setup was not 100% perfect ( a little nose up jumping attitude) it was really really close and was super stable and a blast to drive. Here is the setup I used.
Might want to consider bringing in some more anti squat or a heavier rear spring if you didn't do the battery mod. If you did, I'd prolly just bring the battery back forward a little bit to knock that nose high jumping out.
Your story is very similar to a guy that talked to on facebook. He has an SCTE 2.0 and the Tekno. He complained that the Tekno felt like crap compared to his 2.0 and that he regretted buying and was going to sell it.
I told him before he did to try what I suggested in this forum post.
He did try it and wrote me back to tell me he couldn't believe how much better the truck felt and that is was just as good as his 2.0 now.
That says something right there!
He hasn't even dialed it in all the way and made that remark.
http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...Lewis_SDRC.pdf
So Josh I curious what type of track you run on?
. At first glance, this set up looked like it would be way off, but I had nothing to loose as I was going to make the truck work or sell it and buy a different platform, so I went ahead and gave this set up a shot. Let me tell you I was pleasantly surprised as this is the best my truck has ever felt. While the setup was not 100% perfect ( a little nose up jumping attitude) it was really really close and was super stable and a blast to drive. Here is the setup I used.Might want to consider bringing in some more anti squat or a heavier rear spring if you didn't do the battery mod. If you did, I'd prolly just bring the battery back forward a little bit to knock that nose high jumping out.
Your story is very similar to a guy that talked to on facebook. He has an SCTE 2.0 and the Tekno. He complained that the Tekno felt like crap compared to his 2.0 and that he regretted buying and was going to sell it.
I told him before he did to try what I suggested in this forum post.
He did try it and wrote me back to tell me he couldn't believe how much better the truck felt and that is was just as good as his 2.0 now.
That says something right there!
He hasn't even dialed it in all the way and made that remark.
http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...Lewis_SDRC.pdf
So Josh I curious what type of track you run on?
I have tried and will run the stock
Hey everyone, my stock A brace broke. I just ordered the Aluminum V2 A brace. When my plastic stock one broke I lost one of the box stock setup hinge pin holders.
I will have to run a different front hingepin setup.
Any suggestions. The stock setup was a center dot. But the left one is completely gone still inside the piece of broke off A brace.
I also plan on rebuilding my shocks again, the rears feel gritty? It drives me nuts. Fronts are still quite smooth.
I still have all my other hinge pin holders which should I run?
I ordered some AE green slime, and AE 37.5 front shock Earl, and 27.5 rear shock Earl. I will have the shocks back smooth again in no time. I think the back shock are getting sand blasted while driving the truck.
BTW, my RX8 Gen 2 has been flawless! It is very smart, it wouldn't arm the motor once and the codes it flashed, indicated the throttle adjustment was out on the radio, kids playing with my radio. I turned it back down some, and beep it armed it self! Great ESC! Couldn't be happier with Tekin right now, it was well worth the $213 with tax
I will have to run a different front hingepin setup.
Any suggestions. The stock setup was a center dot. But the left one is completely gone still inside the piece of broke off A brace.
I also plan on rebuilding my shocks again, the rears feel gritty? It drives me nuts. Fronts are still quite smooth.
I still have all my other hinge pin holders which should I run?
I ordered some AE green slime, and AE 37.5 front shock Earl, and 27.5 rear shock Earl. I will have the shocks back smooth again in no time. I think the back shock are getting sand blasted while driving the truck.
BTW, my RX8 Gen 2 has been flawless! It is very smart, it wouldn't arm the motor once and the codes it flashed, indicated the throttle adjustment was out on the radio, kids playing with my radio. I turned it back down some, and beep it armed it self! Great ESC! Couldn't be happier with Tekin right now, it was well worth the $213 with tax
Josh what locations are you running your shocks on the front and rear tower and the front and rear arms. I have those pistons but in on the tower and not the outer most on the arm I had a hard time getting them to pack... And can anyone tell me if a long link causes more roll or less roll. In the past week I have heard long link on the rear will cause more roll and just as many say a long link will roll less. I know the difference in camber gain but what link will cause more or less chassis roll. Thanks for the info Josh on the pistons...
But I don't think my telling you this will matter to be honest. I find so much variance in setups per driver's style and preferences can be a major difference and still do well. Things like roll centers, antisquat, rake and stuff tend to be something you have to feel out while running on the track. You should experiment a lot and realize your going to do a lot of things that will negatively affect your setup before your going to start figuring out the precise adjustments and how they each affects the overall.
Setting up a chassis correctly can be very complex and difficult to get the swing of due to the fact everything has an effect on everything else, some more with certain things than others. Sometimes when you get lucky, you might do something that sees no or an improved reaction on another thing.
But it can be more simplified once you find a good starting base. That part is critical to easing the process.
The setup I provided is superior to stock setup and will get on your way in just about any condition.
Just remember when you do follow a setup sheet a pro post, you have to follow that setup to a 100% tee. One little thing different could easily blow the whole thing up to the point of disaster. From there you always make very small and singular adjustments until you find that feel you like, then stop and run it for a bit before you start messing with things again. Sometimes you will find you actually like the way it was handling before once you run an altered setup for a while.
But to get to the point.
The stock pistons are 10 hole 1.2... These only have enough pack when oiled with 35-40wt from the get go I think.
They have less pack than the 6 hole 1.5's mentioned with similar over all travel rates.
The battery mod will allow you to come back in with some antisquat and improve the jump attitude while helping rear bite.
The way I think of pistons is like this>
Hole count could be thought of as initial reaction, (more or less pack) with hole bore sizes thought of as the effective soft or rigidness felt through the entirety of the stroke. If you bottom out, use less holes before you try reducing volume. One you have just enough pack, then you can start playing with the flow. This all taking into account your running 35 weight as a starting place. You really don't ever need less weight that that for the way the 410 handles with it's weight.
As for roll centers, it is basically just your positions on the towers, being upper holes are less roll and lower holes are more.
Shorter links increases steering and decreases stability into corner. With slight on power gain
(Twitchy)
Longer link will increase stability and make the truck less responsive. (Easier to drive)
Starting with longer links that are mounted in the middle is generally a good starting point.
Unless your following a setup sheet once again, this has to be followed to the tee to see the results gained from said pro's setup.
03-15-2016, 04:02 AM
#3252
Tech Initiate
Velcro on the sides to keep it tight.
Trimmed as little off the front and rear, trying to keep it closed off.
Ground off just the end air control mounts.
Cut clearance for the side bumpers mounts in the body to keep using them.
Trimmed as little off the front and rear, trying to keep it closed off.
Ground off just the end air control mounts.
Cut clearance for the side bumpers mounts in the body to keep using them.
03-15-2016, 10:01 AM
#3253
Tech Initiate
Thanks Ken.... Josh with the pistons flipped you would lose some down travel of the shock. Did you have to do anything to get the correct shock length say 120mm rear and 105mm front...
03-15-2016, 12:51 PM
#3254
Tech Initiate
Hi guys, been following this thread since the start!
I have a question regarding the rebound of the shocks. On the front pair I get one with zero, but the other, following the same procedure I get 60-70% travel. The same exact thing happens with the rear pair.
If I open the cap on the shock with zero rebound the bladder remains inside the cap, but with the other it is sealed to the shock itself (not in the cap)I run standard vented. Any advise on this?? Its so frustrating not being able to get them more or less the same.
I have a question regarding the rebound of the shocks. On the front pair I get one with zero, but the other, following the same procedure I get 60-70% travel. The same exact thing happens with the rear pair.
If I open the cap on the shock with zero rebound the bladder remains inside the cap, but with the other it is sealed to the shock itself (not in the cap)I run standard vented. Any advise on this?? Its so frustrating not being able to get them more or less the same.
03-15-2016, 06:21 PM
#3255
I've got a itch for this motor, Trinity Revtech 4XS 7,200KV 4 Pole motor.
Geared with 17t pinion, stock 44t spur on 2S batteries this truck would run over 60MPH with this 7,200KV motor.
Don't want or need that speed but I would gear way down like 10 or 11 tooth pinion for massive smooth torque.
I run a Trinity Zombie 545 4850kv and it has been great! Also use a Tekin Pro4 4600KV
So, anyone running the 7200kv Trinity Revtech?
Geared with 17t pinion, stock 44t spur on 2S batteries this truck would run over 60MPH with this 7,200KV motor.
Don't want or need that speed but I would gear way down like 10 or 11 tooth pinion for massive smooth torque.
I run a Trinity Zombie 545 4850kv and it has been great! Also use a Tekin Pro4 4600KV
So, anyone running the 7200kv Trinity Revtech?