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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 03-02-2016, 05:09 PM   #3121
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Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
I run the box stock pistons and 6 hole 1.5's depending on the grip, and yes you will get better performance from going lighter on oil in loose situations. Generally this will always be the case, unless you run an over drive setup with the smaller rear diff ring gear which will allow for a heavier center oil, since the rear end acts sorta like a drag brake for the back half on and off throttle.



This is exactly the opposite in my experience.
The losi tends to be more at home in high bite scenarios, while the tekno tends to groove into a track that is loose much better.
If you are having issues with these things there are a few things to consider outside of just roll centers, shocks and tires. But definitely start with those things!
Outside of those, sending some of the chassis weight rearward can help with rear side bite loss by doing the battery tray mod, where you set the battery back further against the rear diff block. There is more info in this thread on it, just search it if you need further explanation, or maybe someone will post you a link if they know where it's at in the forums.
Also keep in mind that "slip angles" (rear toe relevance to front tire moment) and "akerman" (the difference of inside to outside turn in angle) plays a huge role in how your vehicle will rotate around a turn.
If you are a driver that likes to power through a turn, you should induce more ackerman by changing your drag link position. Inducing ackerman also tends to helps prevent rear side bite from breaking traction as easy, however you will lose initial turn in snap and potentially generate an off power push if over done.
Reduced ackerman (wheels turn in closer to the same degree side to side) will give more response, but can also generate push on power if your heavy on a trigger through a turn.
You can also put more weight on the rear tires by spacing the rear hubs more forward, effectively reducing the wheel base a few mm.
By reducing toe in on the rear, you will also open up the slip angle some more, making it easier for the truck to roll around a turn, reducing push.
Just remember there is always a trade off in on-power stability down a straight when you reduce rear toe. It will gain more forward traction, but its no good if it becomes unmanageable per your driving preference.
You also need to remember to find a new front toe degree each time you make such a change. Front toe always needs to be re optimized when you change such things, or the effect desired will go unnoticed by the new problem presented by neglecting that fact.
I wish I could be more definitive on my suggestions, but it's nearly impossible without being in person when your testing. Something as simple as a tire change could be the answer, or it could be much more complex changes! The only way to find out is lots of trial and error, and preferably with a person that understands all the factors involved and can identify things on the fly.
Just some food for thought.



Yes you could think of it like that. Heavier center diff will throw more power to the rear end, which will help kick it out if you like that effect and know how to manage in the loose and rough.
Alternately, increasing rear diff oil will act more like a locker the heavier you go, which will allow the outside wheel around a turn to get more power, which will also kick it out more on-power.
When playing with rear diff weight, you need to consider how tight your track is and how much forward traction you'll have around the turns. If you have a track that requires more mid to off-power turning, loose or dusted, you are going to want to keep it light so as not to generate to much outside-tire drag in a coast, preventing to much push as well as to much on-power kick out.
I generally pay more attention to the off-power side effects if going heavier till I find a happy medium I can live with and still provide proficient on power drive.
Ideally, you want to start light and go up till you don't like how it feels off power. It's easier than starting heavy and going down in that way for me.



Get a cap pack on there ASAP! 2S high KV combos tend to cause massive ripple/noise which can generate a lot of heat in your batteries and ESC, eventually killing your system.
Cap pack

You should consider checking out some of the 8000mah packs from RCJuice. They are cheap and are really nice packs for the cost.
My suggestion to you is to avoid the bullet connector types, in favor of pre wired packs. Bullet style packs generate to much heat on heavy hitting 2S SCT setups at the terminals and make reversing polarity to easy to accidentally happen.
Their shipping and customer service is one of the best in the business to!
hobbystar 2S 8000mah 100c

As far as a good charger goes, you might want to have a look into the cellpro powerlab 6 chargers. They are not overly expensive and their capabilities are second to none in my experience. These things will tell you everything about your batteries and can charge upto 6 6S pack at one time, provided you have a large enough PSU to feed it!
But realistically you will never need more than 12v @ 500 watts for 99% of the applications with RC cars.
Powerlab 6


You can get an inexpensive but reliable power supply from Ebay that is a converted redundant PSU core.
I made my own from one I bought from Amazon for $14. But if you would rather skip the head ache of researching how-to's just grab one here>
12V 75Amp 900Watt PSU


Get a cap pack on there ASAP! 2S high KV combos tend to cause massive ripple/noise which can generate a lot of heat in your batteries and ESC, eventually killing your system.
Cap pack

Hi Josh question i am running orion r10.1 with capacitor pack do i need still extra capacitor?
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Old 03-02-2016, 09:19 PM   #3122
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All ESCs have caps already. A few more helps a lot in our high kv motor and high amp draw situations. Our 4 poles basically pull more than a 1T normal motor would, to put things in perspective. Tons and tons of caps aren't really helpful, but a few more than are already on ESCs generally are.
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Old 03-02-2016, 10:09 PM   #3123
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Just when i thought there are nothing else to learn.....i got schooled by Josh !!
Great info Josh,we appreciated more than you know.
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Old 03-02-2016, 10:28 PM   #3124
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From my experience so far on diff oils. since I can't drive like some folks I have to use the forgiving 7-7-5 setup.

1. thick oils screw up low speed steering when you roll through corners. its getting closer and closer to a true spool. I seems like it wont turn!
2. soon as you get on the power and start to spin tires the thick oils change character and let you blast what ever direction you want.. but I could not handle the twitchy nature or adapt to an advanced spinning / sliding style so I went back to 7 7 5.
3. center diff - make it too thick and it becomes a center fixed gear and the back end starts to come around on accel but braking is excellent cause it keeps brake power to the front. too thin the front wheels boil off and you don't go anywhere on acceleration, worse yet, upon braking all the force goes to the wheels with the least grip so it locks up the rear end.
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Old 03-03-2016, 12:12 AM   #3125
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I think he has a secretary typing for him.😉
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Old 03-03-2016, 01:57 AM   #3126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justpoet View Post
All ESCs have caps already. A few more helps a lot in our high kv motor and high amp draw situations. Our 4 poles basically pull more than a 1T normal motor would, to put things in perspective. Tons and tons of caps aren't really helpful, but a few more than are already on ESCs generally are.
Agreed! There is certainly a "cap limit" to caps!
Sorry, like an efficient system I couldn't "RESIST", the puns...



Quote:
Originally Posted by Lowe's48 View Post
Just when i thought there are nothing else to learn.....i got schooled by Josh !!
Great info Josh,we appreciated more than you know.
Just like to share what I learn along the way my friend!

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I think he has a secretary typing for him.��
Nope, I am just fairly quick on the keys!
Brought to you by youtube arguments!

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Old 03-03-2016, 11:29 AM   #3127
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Originally Posted by twistedneck View Post
From my experience so far on diff oils. since I can't drive like some folks I have to use the forgiving 7-7-5 setup.

1. thick oils screw up low speed steering when you roll through corners. its getting closer and closer to a true spool. I seems like it wont turn!
2. soon as you get on the power and start to spin tires the thick oils change character and let you blast what ever direction you want.. but I could not handle the twitchy nature or adapt to an advanced spinning / sliding style so I went back to 7 7 5.
3. center diff - make it too thick and it becomes a center fixed gear and the back end starts to come around on accel but braking is excellent cause it keeps brake power to the front. too thin the front wheels boil off and you don't go anywhere on acceleration, worse yet, upon braking all the force goes to the wheels with the least grip so it locks up the rear end.
This is correct.
Lighter front and rear oils favor an "F1" style smooth in and smooth out type of driver that wants to carve a corner. Heavier front and rear oils favor a driver that likes to drift it and pin it. The really interesting effect is when you mix them, such as going heavier in the front and lighter in the back, so you get less turn in, more in the mid, and the heavier you pull trigger the more it follows the front wheels.

Regarding the center diff, the thicker the center is, the more "4wd" effect you get, or more even power distribution to the front and back. As you mentioned, lighter oils are easier to drive because the vehicle will automatically be a bit more forgiving with trigger pull and braking. The flip side is that the thicker oils make power delivery and braking both more efficient and less delayed. Generally a super loose or blown out track is easier to drive with a lower center diff oil and a high bite or smooth track is easier to drive with a higher center diff oil.
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Old 03-03-2016, 11:36 AM   #3128
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Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
By installing a low impedance capacitor pack inline with the battery input wires to the ESC...
Cap goes in parallel with the ESC. Inline won't work as Cap's block DC.
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Old 03-03-2016, 01:58 PM   #3129
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Originally Posted by roundguy View Post
Cap goes in parallel with the ESC. Inline won't work as Cap's block DC.
In-line was probably the wrong wording, but rather inline with the input wires, which aren't disconnected, but only added to.
When I said inline, I was refering to the post connections relative to the negative and positive wire.

In retrospect, a capacitor is a compact construction of 2 conducting plates separated by a very thin insulator. If you put DC on it one side will be positively charged and the other side negatively. Both charges attract each other but can't pass the insulating barrier. There's no current flow. DC stops there.
For AC - One side will successively be positively and negatively charged, and attract negative and positive charges resp. So changes on one side of the barrier provoke changes on the other side, so that it appears that the charges cross the barrier, and that current effectively flows through the capacitor.
A charged capacitor is always DC charged, i.e. one side has the positive charges and the other side the negative. These charges are a storage for electrical energy, which is necessary in many circuits.
Is that better?

Last edited by Josh L; 03-03-2016 at 02:08 PM.
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Old 03-03-2016, 04:10 PM   #3130
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Originally Posted by twistedneck View Post
From my experience so far on diff oils. since I can't drive like some folks I have to use the forgiving 7-7-5 setup.

1. thick oils screw up low speed steering when you roll through corners. its getting closer and closer to a true spool. I seems like it wont turn!
2. soon as you get on the power and start to spin tires the thick oils change character and let you blast what ever direction you want.. but I could not handle the twitchy nature or adapt to an advanced spinning / sliding style so I went back to 7 7 5.
3. center diff - make it too thick and it becomes a center fixed gear and the back end starts to come around on accel but braking is excellent cause it keeps brake power to the front. too thin the front wheels boil off and you don't go anywhere on acceleration, worse yet, upon braking all the force goes to the wheels with the least grip so it locks up the rear end.
What brand diff fluid do you use with your 7-7-5 setup?
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Old 03-03-2016, 07:54 PM   #3131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twistedneck View Post
From my experience so far on diff oils. since I can't drive like some folks I have to use the forgiving 7-7-5 setup.

1. thick oils screw up low speed steering when you roll through corners. its getting closer and closer to a true spool. I seems like it wont turn!
2. soon as you get on the power and start to spin tires the thick oils change character and let you blast what ever direction you want.. but I could not handle the twitchy nature or adapt to an advanced spinning / sliding style so I went back to 7 7 5.
3. center diff - make it too thick and it becomes a center fixed gear and the back end starts to come around on accel but braking is excellent cause it keeps brake power to the front. too thin the front wheels boil off and you don't go anywhere on acceleration, worse yet, upon braking all the force goes to the wheels with the least grip so it locks up the rear end.
Pretty much what I have found, Great post.
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Old 03-03-2016, 08:53 PM   #3132
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Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
In-line was probably the wrong wording, but rather inline with the input wires, which aren't disconnected, but only added to.
When I said inline, I was refering to the post connections relative to the negative and positive wire.

Is that better?
No. In-line is in series. If you put the cap in-line your truck won't move.
Enough haggling about capacitors.
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Old 03-03-2016, 09:24 PM   #3133
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No. In-line is in series. If you put the cap in-line your truck won't move.
Enough haggling about capacitors.
For God sake dude, your like one of those grammar nazi's on youtube.
Who cares if the terminology was politically correct or not? Everything I wrote about was useful information from which I also posted a diagram from Castle's website showing the correct way to hook them up for a visual reference.
My wording didn't phase the potency of the information.

If you don't want to haggle, don't start a needless dispute and then demand I stop something you started. Capiche?
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Old 03-03-2016, 10:45 PM   #3134
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Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
For God sake dude, your like one of those grammar nazi's on youtube.
Who cares if the terminology was politically correct or not? Everything I wrote about was useful information from which I also posted a diagram from Castle's website showing the correct way to hook them up for a visual reference.
My wording didn't phase the potency of the information.

If you don't want to haggle, don't start a needless dispute and then demand I stop something you started. Capiche?

Not grammar nazi at all (although terminology needs to be technically correct, not politically correct). If you're going to say something, at least make it correct. I would love to not correct you, but you keep making it necessary.
Lets move on and quit explaining electronics to me.
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Old 03-04-2016, 06:38 AM   #3135
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Not grammar nazi at all (although terminology needs to be technically correct, not politically correct). If you're going to say something, at least make it correct. I would love to not correct you, but you keep making it necessary.
Lets move on and quit explaining electronics to me.
If you don't want to read his (extremely useful and informative) posts, don't. You are nitpicking over details that were more than thoroughly explained with additional graphics by the original poster. This is one of the better threads on RC Tech as far as cooperation and attitudes goes and I am not willing to let anyone derail that. Back off.
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