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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 02-22-2016, 04:20 PM   #3031
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I cut the antenna tube the length that the antenna stick out of the box then use a heat gun and put a 90 degree bend in it so it's well under the body.
+1
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Old 02-22-2016, 08:55 PM   #3032
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I cut the antenna tube the length that the antenna stick out of the box then use a heat gun and put a 90 degree bend in it so it's well under the body.
Why? It's unnecessary and adds to the clutter.
The only part of the antenna that matters is the uncoated end tip. The rest is just extension coax that just gets in the way if anything and has nothing to do with reception quality.
You don't need more than about an inch or two of tube to hold the important part up where it needs to be. The rest should just be coiled up in the box.
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Old 02-23-2016, 12:20 PM   #3033
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Another question, if I run a 3000 to 3500 kv motor on 3s what size pinion should I start with? What is the smallest pinion I can use that will still mesh with spur gear?

Reason I'm asking is because I am just getting back into rc and I am worried that these sct's will be too much of a handful LOL

Last time I raced rc I was.using a B3 with nimh and a 15 to 17 turn motor

Man how times have changed LOL

Would anyone suggest using a lower kv motor say 2500kv until I get use to the power?

I am definitely going to run 3s batteries
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Old 02-23-2016, 01:07 PM   #3034
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Originally Posted by Malazan View Post
Another question, if I run a 3000 to 3500 kv motor on 3s what size pinion should I start with? What is the smallest pinion I can use that will still mesh with spur gear?

Reason I'm asking is because I am just getting back into rc and I am worried that these sct's will be too much of a handful LOL

Last time I raced rc I was.using a B3 with nimh and a 15 to 17 turn motor

Man how times have changed LOL

Would anyone suggest using a lower kv motor say 2500kv until I get use to the power?

I am definitely going to run 3s batteries
smallest pinion u can run on the .3 is 14t. w/ the kv you listed, it may run on the hot side on 3s. I ran a 3500kv in my super lite buggy and it was warm. the sc will allow more airflow under the body than the buggy does, so you may be ok. oh, and I ran the 14t pinion. I went to a 15t and temps were way to hot for my liking.
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Old 02-23-2016, 03:53 PM   #3035
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Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
Why? It's unnecessary and adds to the clutter.
The only part of the antenna that matters is the uncoated end tip. The rest is just extension coax that just gets in the way if anything and has nothing to do with reception quality.
You don't need more than about an inch or two of tube to hold the important part up where it needs to be. The rest should just be coiled up in the box.
Doesn't add to the clutter at all. Tube is still only a couple inches and has a very clean look when shaped nicely. Someone suggested coiling it up in the box. If anyone wants to do that, I have no criticisms for them. I was merely suggesting another option to having the antenna sticking out of the body. If anyone likes the suggestion, they're welcome to try it. That's the beauty of this. You can try whatever you like even if someone else feels it's "unnecessary and adds to the clutter". But I appreciate the positive feedback
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Old 02-23-2016, 04:52 PM   #3036
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Regarding antennas and the tube:

I've generally always just coiled it up in the box, or taped it to the side guard and not had issues. When I went to Motorama though, being both fairly large (though not as large as some others I've raced on), in a metal building, and with a LOT more radios running, I had some range issues for the first time ever. So, I put the antenna in the tube and stuck it in. Trying to figure out what to do with it, I found that it works perfectly to just bend it back a bit and shove it through an unused shock mount hole on the rear tower. This keeps it up, out of the way, and under the body without any worry about it getting caught in anything.
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Old 02-23-2016, 04:59 PM   #3037
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Originally Posted by justpoet View Post
I found that it works perfectly to just bend it back a bit and shove it through an unused shock mount hole on the rear tower. This keeps it up, out of the way, and under the body without any worry about it getting caught in anything.
I like that idea. Might have to give it a try
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Old 02-23-2016, 05:14 PM   #3038
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Default 410.3 w/ Tekin HD 4300 & RX8 G2 question

I just built this kit with the Pro4 HD 4300 and RX8 Gen 2. I'm using 17T pinion on a 1/8 outdoor track with 140ft straight, lots of big jumps and tight turns. After 5 or 6 minute runs, motor temp is 120*F, ESC 110*F or less. I'm new to this and wonder about ESC and motor timing, &/or dropping to 16T.

On the track, I only hit full throttle for a split second on the straight. The rest of the time I'm blipping between zero and half throttle. If I use more than half on the jumps, it turns into an airplane; and it overshoots the turns on the rest of the track. It still rotates on a dime but will fly off the track sideways. So, I'm not making efficient use of the power the motor has.

I did get it to fly level and land smoothly by using stock springs, 28/27mm ride height, 37.5wt F & 35wt R (AE) oils. Everything else is stock. But it over-steers in the 180* turns. I'm going to reduce steering rate and see if that helps the over-steer. BTW, the tires were Soft Blockades in daylight (70*F), Super Soft Hole Shots by night (60*F) on packed clay with ruts and dust.

Any and all suggestions with the above are appreciated.
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Old 02-23-2016, 05:36 PM   #3039
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Originally Posted by Scott_J View Post
I just built this kit with the Pro4 HD 4300 and RX8 Gen 2. I'm using 17T pinion on a 1/8 outdoor track with 140ft straight, lots of big jumps and tight turns. After 5 or 6 minute runs, motor temp is 120*F, ESC 110*F or less. I'm new to this and wonder about ESC and motor timing, &/or dropping to 16T.

On the track, I only hit full throttle for a split second on the straight. The rest of the time I'm blipping between zero and half throttle. If I use more than half on the jumps, it turns into an airplane; and it overshoots the turns on the rest of the track. It still rotates on a dime but will fly off the track sideways. So, I'm not making efficient use of the power the motor has.

I did get it to fly level and land smoothly by using stock springs, 28/27mm ride height, 37.5wt F & 35wt R (AE) oils. Everything else is stock. But it over-steers in the 180* turns. I'm going to reduce steering rate and see if that helps the over-steer. BTW, the tires were Soft Blockades in daylight (70*F), Super Soft Hole Shots by night (60*F) on packed clay with ruts and dust.

Any and all suggestions with the above are appreciated.
You could probably go to a 16 without the motor heating up but I wouldn't gear any lower. Also do temp checks the first time you run it. It should allow you to use more trigger throw throughout the track.

As for the over steer, do you have any steering limiters installed on the spindles? We recommend running 4 washers to start and no less than 2. Another thing is you might be running more antisquat than you need. I think the kit setup is 3 degrees. We usually don't need more than 2.
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Old 02-23-2016, 06:16 PM   #3040
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120 motor and 110 degf is not hot for the tekin stuff. Just curious, are these temps readings via tekin data logging or a temp gun?
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Old 02-23-2016, 06:23 PM   #3041
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120 motor and 110 degf is not hot for the tekin stuff. Just curious, are these temps readings via tekin data logging or a temp gun?
Temp gun. I realize they are low, so I'm sure I can get more out of the motor/ESC, somehow.
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Old 02-23-2016, 06:25 PM   #3042
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
You could probably go to a 16 without the motor heating up but I wouldn't gear any lower. Also do temp checks the first time you run it. It should allow you to use more trigger throw throughout the track.

As for the over steer, do you have any steering limiters installed on the spindles? We recommend running 4 washers to start and no less than 2. Another thing is you might be running more antisquat than you need. I think the kit setup is 3 degrees. We usually don't need more than 2.
I have 2 washers on the steering stops, and the servo end points set just before wheel movement stops. I thought more anti-squat helped the flight characteristics (i.e. preventing nose-overs).

Last edited by Scott_J; 02-23-2016 at 06:53 PM.
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Old 02-23-2016, 07:47 PM   #3043
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I'm new to this and wonder about ESC and motor timing, &/or dropping to 16T.
We where at a big race with a Tekin Rep and he said to just run stock timing with the RX8 and 4 pole motors.

Shanon
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Old 02-23-2016, 07:57 PM   #3044
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We where at a big race with a Tekin Rep and he said to just run stock timing with the RX8 and 4 pole motors.

Shanon
It makes more than enough power to over drive the track on the top end as it is, but I was thinking if I gear down AND add timing it might give more low-end/mid-range power that combined with some voltage limiting and/or throttle expo would make it a beast in the tight parts of the track, while not giving up much top end on the straight. Kind of like how using a super charger on a street car allows you to use a less radical gear ratio while maintaining lots of power throughout the RPM range - making the car easier to drive in town and on the highway. I'm not sure if I'm grasping the concepts correctly, though.
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Old 02-23-2016, 08:02 PM   #3045
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I have 2 washers on the steering stops, and the servo end points set just before wheel movement stops. I thought more anti-squat helped the flight characteristics (i.e. preventing nose-overs).
Try running 4 washers. Having a mechanical stop really makes a difference versus an endpoint or dual rate setting.

Less anti-squat helps the truck jump more nose-up. But I was suggesting it because it also helps side traction into a turn. Too much anti-squat can make the rear end come around into turns.
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