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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 02-12-2016, 12:26 AM   #2986
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I've had good success with the rear mount ESC mod. The little bit of extra weight in the back has made a big difference on the our large outdoor 1/8 track.

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Old 02-12-2016, 01:09 AM   #2987
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Default Weight balance

See what happens with ESC-mod:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1347564&stc=1&d=145526 4479


... and some minor modifications...
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Old 02-12-2016, 01:12 AM   #2988
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
Jeremy McGuigan runs the battery mod and he's sponsored by Tekno and does really well.
That being said, I don't think your off in your thinking at all. The Tekno is known to be nose heavy, more so than other SCT trucks, so taking a little off the front won't hurt anything. Will probably help more than anything.
Here is my racer buddy's brand new carbon / titanium maxed out scte 2.0

Shorty battery mounted forward:

2750g / 6.06lbs

f - ds/668g ps/656g - 1324g 48.1%

r - ds/741g ps/685g - 1426g 51.9%
he also has the lighter -22 shock kit and that helps.

why do you guys prefer rear biased? I assume to put down the power?
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Old 02-12-2016, 01:35 AM   #2989
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FAO View Post
See what happens with ESC-mod:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1347564&stc=1&d=145526 4479


... and some minor modifications...

5.8 lbs total.. are you kidding me? my god. where is the weight savings from?

I can guess the battery is lighter than my 8000mah.. but the LRP 10L is basically the same weight as Tekin 4300pro4 hd. we have the same type of titanium bolt kit. your esc is down right tiny but that can only save max 0.1 lbs (44grams or so).. we both have the Lunsford ti turnbuckles and I assume hinge pins. no body, that's a save but not much. 256 grams mine weighs.. so that's 256+44 = 300 grams or .66 lbs. does not account for the 0.95lbs lighter weight your truck has FAO.

Impressive!

edit: why is your rear brace gone (one next to rear center drive axle)? that has to be 25grams. and I noticed your battery and esc wires are more optimized for reduced length.. along with only 12 gage wires on your battery, nice again. any more tricks appreciated. are there titanium axles for this bad boy?
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Old 02-12-2016, 04:22 AM   #2990
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hawks View Post
I've had good success with the rear mount ESC mod. The little bit of extra weight in the back has made a big difference on the our large outdoor 1/8 track.

Looks like an XR8 on that buggy back there, thats the one in my girls tekno, but I can't imagine setting it in the rear like you have that SCT-pro.
I see you have the issue with the weak 6v 3amp BEC.
Seeing how you also use the CC 10amp BEC.
Is that servo a 9352? That is what I run as well, but now that the 9352 is going out, the new replacement 9372 is designed to run direct 2S, there will be no need for an external BEC anymore.
If you ever need to replace that SCT-pro with something that performs just as well and cost less with a really strong BEC, have a look at the hobbystar 120a ESC
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Old 02-12-2016, 06:57 AM   #2991
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Default ROAR weight...

Now if someone could get one of these beasts down to ROAR minimum weight of 2505grams, I'd really be impressed.
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Old 02-12-2016, 12:52 PM   #2992
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
Jeremy McGuigan runs the battery mod and he's sponsored by Tekno and does really well.
That being said, I don't think your off in your thinking at all. The Tekno is known to be nose heavy, more so than other SCT trucks, so taking a little off the front won't hurt anything. Will probably help more than anything.
I'm gonna give this a try tonight and see where it puts me. I think this is the missing link in my setup. Everything else is pretty solid.
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Old 02-12-2016, 01:54 PM   #2993
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Default i like lightweight cars

Quote:
Originally Posted by twistedneck View Post
5.8 lbs total.. are you kidding me? my god. where is the weight savings from?

I can guess the battery is lighter than my 8000mah.. but the LRP 10L is basically the same weight as Tekin 4300pro4 hd. we have the same type of titanium bolt kit. your esc is down right tiny but that can only save max 0.1 lbs (44grams or so).. we both have the Lunsford ti turnbuckles and I assume hinge pins. no body, that's a save but not much. 256 grams mine weighs.. so that's 256+44 = 300 grams or .66 lbs. does not account for the 0.95lbs lighter weight your truck has FAO.

Impressive!

edit: why is your rear brace gone (one next to rear center drive axle)? that has to be 25grams. and I noticed your battery and esc wires are more optimized for reduced length.. along with only 12 gage wires on your battery, nice again. any more tricks appreciated. are there titanium axles for this bad boy?
1. Battery may have the same weight, it is about 320g,
2. Motor is not 550 but 540, this saves 95g
3. milled out the shock towers, but they become to weak, rear one is bend already
4. until now, Titanium hinge pins are not in use, rest is Titanium
5. did not used the rear brace the last race, thanks for reminding me to put it in for this weekend (carpet indoor), maybe +25g
6. milled out plastic under the battery tray
7. Hazard wheels and Schumacher tires and inserts are very light...
8. the scale is not proven...

Next ideas:
1. titanium hinge pins
2. front driveshaft made of carbon fibre
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Old 02-12-2016, 02:03 PM   #2994
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Default issue with direct 7,4V for HV servos

Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
...
Is that servo a 9352? That is what I run as well, but now that the 9352 is going out, the new replacement 9372 is designed to run direct 2S, there will be no need for an external BEC anymore.
I already tryed to do that. (run direkt 2s) Every time, you give full throttle, the servo pitches to one side. I tested Hitec and Sanwa servos. Maybe i had to install a bigger capacitor, but had no time to do that. So i switched back to 6vBEC.
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Old 02-12-2016, 03:25 PM   #2995
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For those talking about the nose being heavy, I'm assuming you mean that it jumps nose down? If so, try running less anti-squat. We typically run one or zero degrees of anti squat in our cars.
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Old 02-12-2016, 04:00 PM   #2996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
For those talking about the nose being heavy, I'm assuming you mean that it jumps nose down? If so, try running less anti-squat. We typically run one or zero degrees of anti squat in our cars.
I'll get to building mine soon (lol), and this is a great tip Matthew. Definitely gonna set it up this way before getting wild with electronics placement. My first SCT410 would randomly kick it's rear end up violently. Tamed it down some, but was still unpredictable.
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Old 02-12-2016, 04:35 PM   #2997
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I put kyosho orange springs in the front which seemed to really help the hard nose over landings.
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Old 02-12-2016, 05:57 PM   #2998
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FAO View Post
I already tryed to do that. (run direkt 2s) Every time, you give full throttle, the servo pitches to one side. I tested Hitec and Sanwa servos. Maybe i had to install a bigger capacitor, but had no time to do that. So i switched back to 6vBEC.
I run my servos off tekin esc at 7.4v. No problems with savox 2274, 2273, 2270 nor protek 150T. Interesting info on hitec and sanwa. Wonder what the deal is.
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Old 02-12-2016, 06:18 PM   #2999
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Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
I run my servos off tekin esc at 7.4v. No problems with savox 2274, 2273, 2270 nor protek 150T. Interesting info on hitec and sanwa. Wonder what the deal is.
Running through the ESC is different: the power and signal wires to the servo will both be 7.4v. When you're running direct then the power source to the servo is 8.4v... while the white signal wire from the receiver is fed from the ESC BEC (so 6v/7.4v)

I run a RadioPost black servo direct from my stick pack (plugged into the balance port) and it works fine. If I use the same setup with a HK TS-920 (also a HV servo) it works fine at low speeds but straightens out when you punch it.

With more ESCs offering HV BECs (and servos+receivers being able to handle it) this problem is slowly going away.
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Old 02-12-2016, 10:51 PM   #3000
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Ok very stupid question, can someone point out to me the location of explanations for all of the different a,b,c,d block insert combinations?

I can see some of the info on the base setup sheet at the bottom left.

I can also deduce the simple ones with a single pin location.. just looking for a master descriptor with some explanations of what is going on.

Help appreciated. FYI - wheels wont fit. not pro line, not jconcepts, not losi, and not DE racing - unless you remove the washers from the steering end link now it does not hit but my bump steer is off and the end of the link is too low now and i'm getting some extra bump steer.
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