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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 02-10-2016, 11:35 AM   #2971
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Any major upgrades being tax time and all? Tossing my HW setup into my converted Revo and looking at Orion vortex to power my 410.3. My local tracks limit SC mod races to 540 can and 2S only. Going 5200kv Vortex motor and R10.1 esc to run the gauntlet this spring. What about you folks?
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Old 02-10-2016, 05:38 PM   #2972
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Originally Posted by cutting42 View Post
Thanks to a post on here with the Ford 60's truck body, I had to get one with a flamed hotrod paint job.

I like it. Did you do the paint job? Are you using masks?
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Old 02-10-2016, 06:05 PM   #2973
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I like it. Did you do the paint job? Are you using masks?
Nah, I don't have those skills ;-) It was done in the UK by a painter called Puppy Paint. He does my race buggy shells as well. He masks it with 3 coats of masking fluid then does the cutting out with a scalpel. He is an artist
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Old 02-10-2016, 06:54 PM   #2974
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First practice report.

1. Lost about 4 titanium fasteners off the bottom of the car.. steel ones back in you go!
2. Gear noise turned out to be both fasteners that hold down the center diff from bottom were gone. Bearing probably toast, spur dust chunks abound.
3. 3 out of 4 aluminum wheel hex nuts came loose.
4. Body mounts will not tighten - half stripped? some are ok.
5. pink springs front and rear, 30 oil front 25 oil rear. factory setup - except for aluminum a,b,c,d blocks. car is on rails super fast.
6. with 15 tooth pinion, no overheating motor or esc even w/o a fan.. granted its 53 degrees in the track area.
7. only tiny gripe you can't just blindly slam the brakes on while turning into a hairpin at the end of the main long straight.. although its close to it.
8. pinon came loose - Loctite to the rescue.
9. yes its nose heavy no more so than the losi scte 2.0.

I noticed this truck is the fastest truck I've ever driven. looking forward to using these proline electron clay tires in the race this sat. - or should I break in the dirt web golds? wont mater its that fast. congrats on a great truck Tekno!
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Old 02-10-2016, 11:16 PM   #2975
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twistedneck View Post
First practice report.

1. Lost about 4 titanium fasteners off the bottom of the car.. steel ones back in you go!
2. Gear noise turned out to be both fasteners that hold down the center diff from bottom were gone. Bearing probably toast, spur dust chunks abound.
3. 3 out of 4 aluminum wheel hex nuts came loose.
4. Body mounts will not tighten - half stripped? some are ok.
5. pink springs front and rear, 30 oil front 25 oil rear. factory setup - except for aluminum a,b,c,d blocks. car is on rails super fast.
6. with 15 tooth pinion, no overheating motor or esc even w/o a fan.. granted its 53 degrees in the track area.
7. only tiny gripe you can't just blindly slam the brakes on while turning into a hairpin at the end of the main long straight.. although its close to it.
8. pinon came loose - Loctite to the rescue.
9. yes its nose heavy no more so than the losi scte 2.0.

I noticed this truck is the fastest truck I've ever driven. looking forward to using these proline electron clay tires in the race this sat. - or should I break in the dirt web golds? wont mater its that fast. congrats on a great truck Tekno!
Do the "battery mod" and cut the rear tray lip off to slide is back against the diff mount, and come up to 40 front, 35 rear.
Forget about those Titanium screws in any stress areas, they do not have a very good tensile strength and you should definitely be running 12-9 hardened steel screws!
This truck is stupid nice! Far nicer than any of the alternatives in quality and build
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Old 02-11-2016, 05:08 AM   #2976
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Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
Do the "battery mod" and cut the rear tray lip off to slide is back against the diff mount, and come up to 40 front, 35 rear.
Forget about those Titanium screws in any stress areas, they do not have a very good tensile strength and you should definitely be running 12-9 hardened steel screws!
This truck is stupid nice! Far nicer than any of the alternatives in quality and build
Josh, I don't find there is an issue with the slight nose heavy attitude and the way it hooks up in corners makes me worry about changing that balance. i'll weigh the truck on pads with the 2S-8000mah battery and see how the front to rear balance looks and post it here.

I want 40/35 oils however its so darn cold in our partially heated track will the oils turn to 80/75 weight? Lesson learned on the titanium screws thank you!

I'm using 7 of 10 brake power on the Novak Activ8 V2, and for min braking force i'm at 5 (0-45%).

Question, should I turn the minimum brake force down to zero for smoother braking or is level 5 above better because it gets me on the brakes more quickly?
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Old 02-11-2016, 07:30 AM   #2977
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cutting42 View Post
Nah, I don't have those skills ;-) It was done in the UK by a painter called Puppy Paint. He does my race buggy shells as well. He masks it with 3 coats of masking fluid then does the cutting out with a scalpel. He is an artist
Yes, he has made skills. It looks incredible
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Old 02-11-2016, 07:58 AM   #2978
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Originally Posted by twistedneck View Post
Josh, I don't find there is an issue with the slight nose heavy attitude and the way it hooks up in corners makes me worry about changing that balance. i'll weigh the truck on pads with the 2S-8000mah battery and see how the front to rear balance looks and post it here.

I want 40/35 oils however its so darn cold in our partially heated track will the oils turn to 80/75 weight? Lesson learned on the titanium screws thank you!

I'm using 7 of 10 brake power on the Novak Activ8 V2, and for min braking force i'm at 5 (0-45%).

Question, should I turn the minimum brake force down to zero for smoother braking or is level 5 above better because it gets me on the brakes more quickly?
I run 50% on brakes and have no issues at all with under braking or it pitching the tail of the truck up. Just my $.02.
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Old 02-11-2016, 08:40 AM   #2979
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I recently purchased a previously owned SCT410 from a factory sponsored racer who because of personal reasons is getting out of RC altogether. The truck had many of the .3 upgrades on it so it's close enough that I am posting here instead of the other thread. I realize Tekno had to engineer this truck for all of the possible motor/battery combinations and I feel they did a great job. My question is geared towards many of us who run this truck specifically in 2S configuration to comply with track rules for 1/10 open 4x4 sc truck racing. Many of us run a combination of the 1/8 scale esc such as Tekin RX8 or equal along with a larger motor such as the Pro 4 HD or equal. When you add up the weight of all the components on that side of the truck it creates a large imbalance regardless of the 2S battery used. I my case the imbalance is about 160g. This absolutely creates a handling problem that is noticable. This truck is already on the heavy side so adding weight to the battery side is not the right answer. I know it is not as simple as just saying it but why hasn't Tekno produced a composite side pod that is specifically tailored to 2S racing where the battery tray is moved 4mm out to the side and also elongated to the rear. While moving the battery out does not do anything for static balance it would be a significant difference in the dynamic balance when the truck is in motion and would be helpful in the front/rear as well as the battery tray would then clear the diff outdrive and could add about 10 mm of additional rear movement.
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Old 02-11-2016, 12:40 PM   #2980
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Update on weight. 2S 8000 battery, 4300 Pro4HD, 76 gram servo, 90 gram ESC + wires, Proline electron tires, j-concepts body. total = 3052 grams, 6.75lbs.
Front
DS 732g PS 779
Rear
DS 766g PS 775g

Cross weights
F-DS + R-PS =1507g
F-PS + R-DS = 1545g

Off by 38grams.. not bad!
Weight % fore / aft.
Front 1511g 49.5%
Rear 1541g 50.5%

Essentially that's perfect.
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Old 02-11-2016, 02:33 PM   #2981
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iknownothing View Post
I recently purchased a previously owned SCT410 from a factory sponsored racer who because of personal reasons is getting out of RC altogether. The truck had many of the .3 upgrades on it so it's close enough that I am posting here instead of the other thread. I realize Tekno had to engineer this truck for all of the possible motor/battery combinations and I feel they did a great job. My question is geared towards many of us who run this truck specifically in 2S configuration to comply with track rules for 1/10 open 4x4 sc truck racing. Many of us run a combination of the 1/8 scale esc such as Tekin RX8 or equal along with a larger motor such as the Pro 4 HD or equal. When you add up the weight of all the components on that side of the truck it creates a large imbalance regardless of the 2S battery used. I my case the imbalance is about 160g. This absolutely creates a handling problem that is noticable. This truck is already on the heavy side so adding weight to the battery side is not the right answer. I know it is not as simple as just saying it but why hasn't Tekno produced a composite side pod that is specifically tailored to 2S racing where the battery tray is moved 4mm out to the side and also elongated to the rear. While moving the battery out does not do anything for static balance it would be a significant difference in the dynamic balance when the truck is in motion and would be helpful in the front/rear as well as the battery tray would then clear the diff outdrive and could add about 10 mm of additional rear movement.
I think its setup for 3S and 4S batteries to be balanced against an 1/8th scale motor. No point in using a light shorty pack for this truck! The simple solution is to mount your battery on its side at the outside of the tray - not on its back. it will take some finagling and a lot of foam but can be done. it will help with static left to right and cross weight.. and its simple.
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Old 02-11-2016, 06:31 PM   #2982
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I think its setup for 3S and 4S batteries to be balanced against an 1/8th scale motor. No point in using a light shorty pack for this truck! The simple solution is to mount your battery on its side at the outside of the tray - not on its back. it will take some finagling and a lot of foam but can be done. it will help with static left to right and cross weight.. and its simple.
I totally agree with you on the intent of 3S or 4S batteries and the worthlessness of using 2S shortiy packs. My batteries are full size 7200 mah packs. I have tried running them in the vertical position but the adverse affect of the higher center of gravity was not acceptable.
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Old 02-11-2016, 07:53 PM   #2983
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twistedneck View Post
Update on weight. 2S 8000 battery, 4300 Pro4HD, 76 gram servo, 90 gram ESC + wires, Proline electron tires, j-concepts body. total = 3052 grams, 6.75lbs.
Front
DS 732g PS 779
Rear
DS 766g PS 775g

Cross weights
F-DS + R-PS =1507g
F-PS + R-DS = 1545g

Off by 38grams.. not bad!
Weight % fore / aft.
Front 1511g 49.5%
Rear 1541g 50.5%

Essentially that's perfect.
That's pretty awesome. In my experience, I tend to like my 4wd vehicles a little heavier than that in the rear. Of course that's all personal preference. I like to be around 52% rear biased. It just seems to work better for my driving style. My 410.3 is like yours, almost 50/50. I think if I can get that 52 in the rear, it'll assist in the nose down issue. I may be totally off track with my thinking but I'm gonna keep manipulating until I get there, just to satisfy my curiosity.
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Old 02-11-2016, 09:24 PM   #2984
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Originally Posted by justpoet View Post
... though they were always 1 color jobs, so to put them together, black with blue flame.
You should have lots of yellow laying around...
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Old 02-11-2016, 10:50 PM   #2985
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 450rdawg View Post
That's pretty awesome. In my experience, I tend to like my 4wd vehicles a little heavier than that in the rear. Of course that's all personal preference. I like to be around 52% rear biased. It just seems to work better for my driving style. My 410.3 is like yours, almost 50/50. I think if I can get that 52 in the rear, it'll assist in the nose down issue. I may be totally off track with my thinking but I'm gonna keep manipulating until I get there, just to satisfy my curiosity.
Jeremy McGuigan runs the battery mod and he's sponsored by Tekno and does really well.
That being said, I don't think your off in your thinking at all. The Tekno is known to be nose heavy, more so than other SCT trucks, so taking a little off the front won't hurt anything. Will probably help more than anything.
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