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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 01-23-2016, 11:33 PM   #2911
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Originally Posted by fidelity101 View Post
Thank you. Turns out the screw was loose (barely) but enough to cause variable resistance. I removed the screw, added dielectric grease and tightened everything up. Lead temp went down and overall engine temp dropped as well.
Not trying to troll you so don't take this the wrong way, but I want to inform you of the general misconceptions often associated with "dielectric grease".

Dielectric material is intended to be a non conductive insulator.
Popular belief has most people believing that it's a conductive insulator because of the "lectric" part of the name.
Most auto stores sell this stuff by the packets promoting people to use them on the battery terminals to prevent corrosion from electrolysis, from which it does very well!

Unfortunately 99.9% of people who promote the use of it doesn't really understand the correct way to use it and fail to mention you are only supposed to coat the connection point once the connection has already been firmly made.
IE. Rather than spreading it on the post and then shoving the female down on to it.
The outer surface of the previously made connection is the only place you want to be coated, again due to it's insulation properties preventing atmospheric oxidization which directly prevents corrosion as well as reduces the possibility of arcing potential.
Often mechanics, including spark plug wire manufacturers will use dielectric grease for it's lubricant and thermal barrier properties to allow for easier slide through of the terminal into a rubber boot and to help prevent hot rubber from adhering to the ceramic and metal terminal ends over time. When installed correctly it also helps seal off voltage leaks from arching as a packing agent.
With those factors realized for what it is intended, it is not supposed to be left on the actual metal to metal contact point, as it will in fact create resistance and disrupt full current induction.

To better remember this in a layman way, remember "Die Electric"...
Doesn't sound so great anymore huh?

That being said, if you want to improve terminal constructiveness, I second using the method suggested by [Justpoet] where applicable, rather using an actual conductive liquid which can spread and create a direct short via close proximity SMT post.

Further more, one of the safest and most conductive materials found is nothing more than pencil graphite, from which you can simply scratch or draw it right onto the connection points for a barrier that won't only prevent oxidization, but will also stay exactly where you put it till it wears off.
This method is also really helpful for making battery connectors (deans, bullets, you name it) considerably easier to push or pull together and apart.

Hope that helps you out, because knowing is half the battle!


Last edited by Josh L; 01-24-2016 at 12:10 AM.
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Old 01-23-2016, 11:58 PM   #2912
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Oh and one more thing!
If you really want to lower resistance and significantly increase your electronics life cycle, I would highly suggest the use of an ultra low impedance electrolytic capacitor module connected between your battery wires to the ESC input.
Like these> HW Ultra cap-pack

Also a "glitch buster style cap" plugged into a spare Rx channel is not only good for signal retention from voltage drop potential, but even more so to take the load off your BEC with a gain of increased servo responsiveness, which also results in a more solidified actuation and once again further reduces resistance from your ESC.
The lower your over all resistance (especially generated from high demand 2S setups like our track legal SCTs), the cooler and more efficient everything will run. Period!
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Old 01-24-2016, 01:26 AM   #2913
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I think your basing and potentially limiting the soundness of your overall choices around a negligible tech addendum IMO.
I can tell you from experience that I would find it real hard to believe anything could be much cleaner in real time resolution or response than that HV9253.
I have messed around with a whole lot of servos in cars, planes, and helicopters, and that futaba is a beastly creature that has never let me down no matter how much hell I've put it through.
Consider the fact I nearly lock out the servo saver in my SCT's all together and have had some wicked crashes. Didn't phase it...
If you read reviews and talk to people that actually have owned them it is one of the rare deals where your going to be hard pressed to find anyone disappointed and odds are likely that is the one they are still using and continue to toss into their new rollers time after time.
This is honestly one of the most reliable piece of electronics that just keeps on keeping on no matter how hard I beat it down. Hard to argue a speed of .06 with 300+ oz in of torque, and it easily holds to it's claim.

I personally wouldn't feel comfortable with anything less than 250 oz in in an SCT.
Josh, I ended up picking the Hitec D940TW. 7.4V, 0.06sec, 229 oz-in, 68grams. This servo will support SHR mode on the Airtronics MT-4S radio. SHR = SSR for non Airtronics servos. Tower does not carry that bad azz Futaba, and I know its awesome because my pal has one on his Losi SCTE 2.0 and its clearly a god like servo.

Novak already responded to my question on the Activ8 V2 working with SSR mode on the Airtronics MT-4S, the did so on a weekend day and even better its from Charlie Suangka! He said the Activ8 V2 directly supports Airtronics SSR mode. So I'll be taking advantage of the SSR tech even if it is somewhat of an unknown.
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Old 01-24-2016, 05:32 AM   #2914
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Thank you Josh!

I miss stated the grease that I was using… This stuff is called Dr. Marty's easy on conductive grease. It (along with a tightened screw) made the temperatures drop considerably. I wiped the area clean afterwards so it didn't melt and cause a short and I only used a little bit. A #2 pencil probably would have been a better way to go. I use this stuff on all of my connectors to make them slide in and out easier. I hope it's not truly "Dielectric grease" as I called it before. After reading the review, I think it may not be as "conductive" as I thought previously. Now that I'm off the track, I think I'll clean it off the contacts and use some graphite as you stated....thanks!

http://www.bigsquidrc.com/dr-martys-...grease-review/
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Old 01-24-2016, 03:50 PM   #2915
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What kv motors do you guys run?
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Old 01-24-2016, 04:47 PM   #2916
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I run a HW 4000 with a Toro TS150 esc
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Old 01-24-2016, 07:31 PM   #2917
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Oh and one more thing!
If you really want to lower resistance and significantly increase your electronics life cycle,
Adding a cap won't reduce resistance.
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Old 01-25-2016, 06:53 AM   #2918
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Originally Posted by roundguy View Post
Adding a cap won't reduce resistance.
Technically your right. It won't change the "the overall resistance values".
It was prolly a poor way to explain it without cross referencing my wording.

What caps will do however is reduce electronic noise and load spiking demand from the battery into an smoothed out power draw that will calm the fluctuation and buffer the amount of current needed on initial draw since it acts like a small reserve.
Current demand, especially initial burst surges do in fact determine the amount of heat generated no matter how you look at it in RC applications.

All and all, the caps improve signal flow and reduce load spike demands

Next time you want to correct something politically incorrect you should at least take the time to explain yourself within the understanding. It benefits everyone this way.
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Old 01-28-2016, 04:03 PM   #2919
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How are the carbon towers holding up for you guys that are running them? Thinking about picking some up but wanted to ask about the durability before dropping the money on them being 80.00 for the pair. I know the old ones had issues but I guess these are stronger? Thanks
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Old 01-28-2016, 04:18 PM   #2920
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How are the carbon towers holding up for you guys that are running them? Thinking about picking some up but wanted to ask about the durability before dropping the money on them being 80.00 for the pair. I know the old ones had issues but I guess these are stronger? Thanks
I've been running them since last summer for outdoor 6FT jump and indoor without any problem.
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Old 01-28-2016, 04:23 PM   #2921
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I've been running them since last summer for outdoor 6FT jump and indoor without any problem.
Thank you.
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Old 01-28-2016, 04:37 PM   #2922
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Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
Technically your right. It won't change the "the overall resistance values".
It was prolly a poor way to explain it without cross referencing my wording.

What caps will do however is reduce electronic noise and load spiking demand from the battery into an smoothed out power draw that will calm the fluctuation and buffer the amount of current needed on initial draw since it acts like a small reserve.
Current demand, especially initial burst surges do in fact determine the amount of heat generated no matter how you look at it in RC applications.

All and all, the caps improve signal flow and reduce load spike demands

Next time you want to correct something politically incorrect you should at least take the time to explain yourself within the understanding. It benefits everyone this way.
Hence the reason most big time car sub users put the cap on the amp. smooths out the power to take the big surge off the battery/alternator. Ever see the lights dim with each thump of the sub. The cap is to help smooth out that surge.
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Old 01-28-2016, 08:37 PM   #2923
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Originally Posted by Dan.J View Post
How are the carbon towers holding up for you guys that are running them? Thinking about picking some up but wanted to ask about the durability before dropping the money on them being 80.00 for the pair. I know the old ones had issues but I guess these are stronger? Thanks
Pretty well for me. Home track has about a 25 ft triple. Ran at wicked too with no problems. Only shock tower I had problems with was the rear. Prob could have just changed it out, but went with both.
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Old 01-29-2016, 07:27 AM   #2924
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Hence the reason most big time car sub users put the cap on the amp. smooths out the power to take the big surge off the battery/alternator. Ever see the lights dim with each thump of the sub. The cap is to help smooth out that surge.
Exactly right! The benefit of security and stress relief a cap back system offers far out weighs any minuscule weight penalty.
They virtually weigh nothing to begin with.
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Old 01-29-2016, 07:47 AM   #2925
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Pretty well for me. Home track has about a 25 ft triple. Ran at wicked too with no problems. Only shock tower I had problems with was the rear. Prob could have just changed it out, but went with both.
Good to know, thanks for sharing, even though I haven't had any problems with the shock towers, I have been considering this upgrade to save a bit of weight and not have to worry about something happening.
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