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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 01-19-2016, 02:00 PM   #2881
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Hi

Thanks a lot for your suggestions!

Quote:
Originally Posted by mkl View Post
The only things out of the box that you may want to upgrade the suspension A,B,C,D blocks. Also an alloy servo horn. All the rest you can replace as needed.
You mean I should replace the composite stuff by aluminium blocks, like PN TKR5161, ...? Ok, I will consider this (puh, 100$, not bad...).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
As for your motor, that is sorta mid/low KV for 3S use as a max cell count.
Oh, OK, I just looked up the KV numbers for "middle tracks" in the first post (4400 to 4800KV for 2S, means around 3000+KV for 3S on a 15T pinion... then maybe my next thought is "out of space"...

What came into my mind regarding ESC/Motor: I often read about Tekin (and not so good things about the HW SCT-pro BEC), seems so be something linke Kontronik (top Motors/ESCs in the RC Heli sector, and I have experience in investing in 850 USD ESCs...). Should I go with a RX8Gen2 and Pro4HD 3000kV (for 3S) Combo? Reliability is important - I would like to spend a bit more in the beginning, then have some issues (I do _in no way_ say that HW Stuff is not good). Should be OK with a 15 to 16T Pinion, right (middle to larger tracks)? I know, its definitely not a water proof setup (but can be converted, have some experience to make electronics water resistent). Questions over questions ;-) What do you think?

Thx
//Raphael
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Old 01-19-2016, 02:48 PM   #2882
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Just curious but why 3S? Why not 4S? There is likely more battery options out there for 4S as it is popular in 1/8th scale.
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Old 01-19-2016, 04:09 PM   #2883
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowrider View Post
Hi

Thanks a lot for your suggestions!



You mean I should replace the composite stuff by aluminium blocks, like PN TKR5161, ...? Ok, I will consider this (puh, 100$, not bad...).



Oh, OK, I just looked up the KV numbers for "middle tracks" in the first post (4400 to 4800KV for 2S, means around 3000+KV for 3S on a 15T pinion... then maybe my next thought is "out of space"...

What came into my mind regarding ESC/Motor: I often read about Tekin (and not so good things about the HW SCT-pro BEC), seems so be something linke Kontronik (top Motors/ESCs in the RC Heli sector, and I have experience in investing in 850 USD ESCs...). Should I go with a RX8Gen2 and Pro4HD 3000kV (for 3S) Combo? Reliability is important - I would like to spend a bit more in the beginning, then have some issues (I do _in no way_ say that HW Stuff is not good). Should be OK with a 15 to 16T Pinion, right (middle to larger tracks)? I know, its definitely not a water proof setup (but can be converted, have some experience to make electronics water resistent). Questions over questions ;-) What do you think?

Thx
//Raphael
The Tekin stuff is backed by an outstanding warranty and customer support, but the cost is really high in comparison to HW stuff.
But I have seen a few RX8's burn up a few times to, when the much cheaper HW stuff kept on going. But if you plan to run 3S, you are already going to be running cooler and with less resistance over all, so it probably won't really matter which route you take.
In defense of the HW stuff, you can always just run an external BEC. The cost would still be significantly less than an RX8.
But honestly, I cannot say which one you will prefer in the end. That will be up to your preference and how large your money roll is.
I do know that no one ever has anything bad to say about the HW motors, so that is a solid choice regardless of which ESC you choose.
As for mod 1 pinion gears, you could go as low as 11t and no higher than 15t with a 4000KV setup running 3S. But if you wanted to stay with the normal 15-16t gear set, you might want to run that lower KV motor.

Tekno Pinions
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Old 01-19-2016, 07:13 PM   #2884
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For his uses as described as somewhat bashing, castle would be a great fit, the added benefit of water proof (ish) would be a good thing to ponder for a play around do all set up and the bec's haven't given me any issues on 3s or 4s
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Old 01-20-2016, 01:57 AM   #2885
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Thank you all!

Quote:
Originally Posted by 65BAJA View Post
Just curious but why 3S? Why not 4S? There is likely more battery options out there for 4S as it is popular in 1/8th scale.
That is actually a good question. I'm Swiss, we are known for neutrality and compromises . Seriously, I first thought, 14.8V for a 1/10 car is a lot, but like in the heli scene: more voltage is always better to lower the current and therefor the efficiency. Btw (and sorry for this newbie question)...
  • What 4S lipo's do you use (capa, realistic c-rates)? What is a good weight (assumtion: HW 3656 or Tekin Pro 4HD with RX8 Gen2)? Soft- or Cardcase?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob4607 View Post
For his uses as described as somewhat bashing, castle would be a great fit, the added benefit of water proof (ish) would be a good thing to ponder for a play around do all set up and the bec's haven't given me any issues on 3s or 4s
Thanks for the hint! Because of personal reasons, I do not want use Castle stuff. Very bad experience (in RC Heli). I know, its not fully adaptable to RC Car stuff and not logically explainable. I just will never have a good feeling if "Castle" is written on it - event if the Mamba stuff looks OK.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
The Tekin stuff is backed by an outstanding warranty and customer support, but the cost is really high in comparison to HW stuff.
But I have seen a few RX8's burn up a few times to, when the much cheaper HW stuff kept on going. But if you plan to run 3S, you are already going to be running cooler and with less resistance over all, so it probably won't really matter which route you take.
In defense of the HW stuff, you can always just run an external BEC. The cost would still be significantly less than an RX8.
But honestly, I cannot say which one you will prefer in the end. That will be up to your preference and how large your money roll is.
I do know that no one ever has anything bad to say about the HW motors, so that is a solid choice regardless of which ESC you choose.
As for mod 1 pinion gears, you could go as low as 11t and no higher than 15t with a 4000KV setup running 3S. But if you wanted to stay with the normal 15-16t gear set, you might want to run that lower KV motor.
Thanks! Makes sense! I think I change my plan form a S3 to a S4 setup. The minor problem I see regarding the motor:
  • Hobbywing xerun 3656 -> lowest -> 3400kv
  • Tekin suggests for 4S the 1850kv Pro4 HD motor

Now i'm a bit confused . Is the HW xerun out of the game on 4S? Pro4 HD 1850 is a bit on the low side. +/- 2200 would be the sweet spot, right? What would YOU go with on 4S (on a Tekin ESC):
  1. Pro4 2400 / 15t
  2. Pro4 HD 2500 / 15t ()
  3. HW 3656/3400 / 11t

Thx a lot!
//Raphael

Last edited by slowrider; 01-20-2016 at 02:08 AM.
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Old 01-20-2016, 03:35 AM   #2886
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowrider View Post
Now i'm a bit confused . Is the HW xerun out of the game on 4S? Pro4 HD 1850 is a bit on the low side. +/- 2200 would be the sweet spot, right? What would YOU go with on 4S (on a Tekin ESC):
  1. Pro4 2400 / 15t
  2. Pro4 HD 2500 / 15t ()
  3. HW 3656/3400 / 11t

Thx a lot!
//Raphael
Hobbywing does make low KV motors, but it will pick the size upto a 550 can, not all that uncommon for bashers to run.
You could consider one of these>
2200KV
Consider the fact the 410.3 is nothing more than a converted 1/8 scale buggy in most respects.
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Old 01-20-2016, 08:16 PM   #2887
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It's here gotta get this bad boy ready forSIC
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Old 01-20-2016, 08:30 PM   #2888
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowrider View Post
Thank you all!



That is actually a good question. I'm Swiss, we are known for neutrality and compromises . Seriously, I first thought, 14.8V for a 1/10 car is a lot, but like in the heli scene: more voltage is always better to lower the current and therefor the efficiency. Btw (and sorry for this newbie question)...
  • What 4S lipo's do you use (capa, realistic c-rates)? What is a good weight (assumtion: HW 3656 or Tekin Pro 4HD with RX8 Gen2)? Soft- or Cardcase?



Thanks for the hint! Because of personal reasons, I do not want use Castle stuff. Very bad experience (in RC Heli). I know, its not fully adaptable to RC Car stuff and not logically explainable. I just will never have a good feeling if "Castle" is written on it - event if the Mamba stuff looks OK.



Thanks! Makes sense! I think I change my plan form a S3 to a S4 setup. The minor problem I see regarding the motor:
  • Hobbywing xerun 3656 -> lowest -> 3400kv
  • Tekin suggests for 4S the 1850kv Pro4 HD motor

Now i'm a bit confused . Is the HW xerun out of the game on 4S? Pro4 HD 1850 is a bit on the low side. +/- 2200 would be the sweet spot, right? What would YOU go with on 4S (on a Tekin ESC):
  1. Pro4 2400 / 15t
  2. Pro4 HD 2500 / 15t ()
  3. HW 3656/3400 / 11t

Thx a lot!
//Raphael
HW sctpro 120amp will be fine for 4s set up. I'm running HW sctpro/Tekin T8i 1950/4600 mah 4s with 18 pinion in my Tekno Sl.3 buggy. 13-15 min of run time and cool running as well.
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Old 01-20-2016, 09:03 PM   #2889
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Hey guys - I too am new here, although I have no previous experience with hobby-grade RC. I've had cheapos since the day I was born but I'm looking more and more toward the nice stuff.

So I've been doing research for the last month on what type of vehicle, brand, parts etc - and I'm pretty much set on either the RTR Losi or spending a bit more and building the Tekno SCT 410.3 from the ground up. Like I said I don't have a lot of experience in specifically high end RC but I do have some decent electronics and a bit of mechanical experience and I think I can figure most things out for myself.

The goal with this build is:
-Sturdy, heavy, insanely powerful and fast basher.
-Will be running most of its time on a hard packed BMX course when they're not holding events, or in baseball fields with grass potentially mixed in. Also maybe some sand and gravel pits if work would allow me! And of course asphalt roads/parking lots.
-To learn about high end RC and get my bearings with everything.
-Price is not necessarily an issue but I'm trying to keep it under $1K
-Value for money spent on parts

So here's my proposed build:
-Chassis: Tekno SCT410.3
-Motor/ESC: Castle Sidewinder 8TH (2200 KV motor)
-Batt: Turnigy 5000mAh 4S 30C
-Servo: Savox SB-2251SG (or maybe a comparable Hitec unit)
-Wheels/Tires: ProLine F-11 with Gladiators
-TX/RX: FlySky FS-GT2E / FS-A3
-Body: One of these: JConcepts '79 Ranger F250, ProLine '81 Bronco (need high mount body posts), ProLine VW Beetle Full Fender, or any one of the 4000 Raptor shells out there now.

Other than that a few questions about individual parts:
-Will this motor even fit in the Tekno? It's supposedly a 550 can but it's pretty long..Anyone run this motor or the Mamba Monster 2 in one of these kits?
-Servo - The output on the ESC says it's 5.5V - the servo gives me all the ratings in 6.0V - this shouldn't hurt anything other than slightly lower torque output than the servo manufacturer's rating at 6.0V correct?
-Gearing - How does this work - I assume since I have a lower KV I want a slightly higher gear ratio so I can keep RPMs low and thus not overheat? Or does the high torque overheat motors more? What makes sense to keep the motor from overheating yet still get good speed - I don't think power will be an issue with this motor - Also where do you get the gears from? Do they include multiple ones in the kit or do you need to order them separately?
-Shaft - Is there something I need to be concerned with on the shaft diameter? I've seen different motors with different sized shafts. Is there a standard for 4X4 SCTs?
-Shocks/Suspension - There's a bunch of springs on Tekno's page - Do they just come with one by default? I don't think I need anything special but I want to make sure the kit does in fact COME with shocks!
-Any good places to buy or suggestions to cut costs where I may not need to spend money would also be appreciated.

Other than that, I feel like I can probably just figure out the rest - Assuming the Tekno kit comes with all the mechanical bits on the chassis, I should be good. I still need to look up aluminum servo horns as I hear those are a problem with this kit due to high torque needed to turn the wheels?

Thanks guys, this is gonna be awesome!

PS let me know if I'm breaking any one of multiple unknown RC or forum faux pas here. Am I supposed to buy a cheap $400 RTR first then 2 years later come back with this list again saying "yeah guys I think it's time to move to a truly nice kit, I got this one but it's only XYZ and doesn't jump 40 feet into the air off jumps"?
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Old 01-21-2016, 07:08 AM   #2890
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I don't know why people are suggesting 4s for the SCT. Typically when racing we run 2S due to track limitations. Since your primarily a basher/yard user, a 3s setup would be optimal due to better efficiency, and my pick would be the Tekin Gen2 RX8 (What I use in all 3 of my tekno's) and the 3000kv HD motor combo. Add a 5000mah or so 3s battery. SMC is a great source for quality budget friendly battery packs (Smc-racing.net). {Yes, I said quality & budget in the same sentence, you don't see that often}

As for the hinge blocks, I've been running all composite, but have the aluminum A block in my box just in case. You don't need all 4 aluminum blocks. I crash more than I care to admit, and have been fine.

To expand on my recommendation on 3s vs 4s, this is a 4wd sct designed for 2s applications. The outdrives and CVD's are built lighter than the EB/ET (Built for 4S), and would be fine for 3s. IF you decide to follow the suggestion for 4s, have a spare set of above on hand, because you will wear these items quicker.

Also, buy the tekno battery straps for the EB/ET, as a 3S battery will be larger than a 2s, and you'll need the extra strap length to secure your batteries.
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Old 01-21-2016, 10:09 AM   #2891
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twistedneck View Post
Very cool post justpoet. your point about stiffer stabilizer bars at the end that's digging is spot on. In a typical car, the roll couple is the contribution of each end of the car on the complete roll rate. Usually you want the most contribution to come from the end with most weight over the wheels. and then add a few more percent.. so adding roll rate with the stabar or coil spring, or stiffer rubber bushings to move the roll couple around its awesome.

problem is how do you figure out what end is digging in??
The easiest way is with video. However, if the front is digging, you'll typically traction roll over the front bumper and side diagonally in the direction you were going. If the rear is digging, you'll typically traction roll in more of a side barrel roll away from the apex of the corner.

Sorry it took me so long to comment, I've been having trouble seeing and off of RCTech until last night and today.
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Old 01-21-2016, 10:25 AM   #2892
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Regarding motor/esc choices. Really it boils down to what you want to do with the vehicle.

If you want to be able to go to a track someday too and not change things, then stick with a 2s setup. This will run a little warmer, but in an SCT where there's plenty of air moving under the body, this isn't really ever an issue.

If you just want to have some fun bashing around, then either 3s or 4s are fine and acceptable. I've run the Tekin Pro4 1850HD on small 4s SMC packs that're the same size as the 2s stick packs and it works great and everything stays around 90 degrees F if ambient isn't higher, running just like any other 4 pole SC system.

If you want to run on grass a bunch, grass is actually quite hard on motors if you're keeping things opened up, due to extra drag and spin. Because of that, a 3s or 4s setup might be beneficial. SMC has standard stick size packs for both that work well, but your motor choices will be different, of course.

For motor choices, since you want something that can take a splash, I'm going to suggest either the HobbyWing or the Tekin as they're closed cans. They're not perfectly sealed, but unless you go and submerge them, they should be fine. You are correct that HobbyWing doesn't have a Short Course motor for 4s, and their 3s offering is a bit on the fast side of things, but that might be fine and fun for running in the grass and along with the kids' Slashes that you saw to make them go wow.

While the Tekno can take it (by getting the non-LCG motor mount insert), avoid putting full 8th scale motors into it as this is extra weight and torque that you can't really use anyway unless you're primary goal is for something like speed runs, and the extra weight just translates into rolling over more often.

I love my Tekin RX8 ESCs, but they are definitely nowhere near water resistant. If you want to use them in that manner, look into the various ways to waterproof your own ESCs and see if you want to do that. Generally a fairly straight forward processes, but of course warranty voiding. Alternative to the HobbyWing SCT Pro that a lot of people use, the newer HobbyWing XR8 also has a better high voltage capable BEC, but is a little larger and heavier (not a problem, but worth noting). There is, however, a waterproof "sport" version (sensorless) of that ESC that you might want to research (I don't have any experience with it), the "Max 8".
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Old 01-21-2016, 12:35 PM   #2893
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Since your primarily a basher/yard user, a 3s setup would be optimal due to better efficiency, and my pick would be the Tekin Gen2 RX8 (What I use in all 3 of my tekno's) and the 3000kv HD motor combo. Add a 5000mah or so 3s battery.
{...}
To expand on my recommendation on 3s vs 4s, this is a 4wd sct designed for 2s applications. The outdrives and CVD's are built lighter than the EB/ET (Built for 4S), and would be fine for 3s. IF you decide to follow the suggestion for 4s, have a spare set of above on hand, because you will wear these items quicker.

Also, buy the tekno battery straps for the EB/ET, as a 3S battery will be larger than a 2s, and you'll need the extra strap length to secure your batteries.
Really funny, because I was a bit unsure regarding my decision 3s vs. 4s. So I wrote an email to the european distributor for Tekno. I got an email just a couple of minutes ago. His advice:

3S, Tekin RX8 Gen2, Tekin Pro4HD 3000KV, 15 to 16t pinion, 4500 to 5000 LIPO Are you the guy who wrote me back? (just kidding).

Seems to be a good start for me. Thanks also for the other hints (straps ect.).

Unfortunately there are not many 3S Hardcase LIPOs with this capa available to me - there is almost no chance to ship LIPOs from US to EU (especially to Switzerland, strict lows), so either I invest in LRP 3s 4500 LIPOs (around 100 USD) or I go with Softcase LIPOs (remember, I do not need to follow race rules).

--OT--
Is it still this (excuse me) silly race rule that most of you use Hardcase LIPOs? From a security point of view: to me it makes no sense. All of our RC Heli Lipos (and we talk about 12 to 14S with 5000mAh means a lot of energy) are Softcase Lipos with some Alu "plates" between the Cells - and I had really hard crashes (speed, 200km/h) and so fare not one LIPO was on fire (sure, for security reasons unsuable anymore)... Or are there other reasons to use Hardcase LIPOs?
--OT--

Quote:
Originally Posted by justpoet View Post
Regarding motor/esc choices. Really it boils down to what you want to do with the vehicle.

If you want to be able to go to a track someday too and not change things, then stick with a 2s setup. This will run a little warmer, but in an SCT where there's plenty of air moving under the body, this isn't really ever an issue.
Sure, thats true, but for now -> no race. And just in case: That is then a reason to get a new Tekno .


Thanks guys, I really appreciate your advices for a newbie!
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Old 01-21-2016, 04:57 PM   #2894
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Originally Posted by slowrider View Post
Really funny, because I was a bit unsure regarding my decision 3s vs. 4s. So I wrote an email to the european distributor for Tekno. I got an email just a couple of minutes ago. His advice:

3S, Tekin RX8 Gen2, Tekin Pro4HD 3000KV, 15 to 16t pinion, 4500 to 5000 LIPO Are you the guy who wrote me back? (just kidding).

Seems to be a good start for me. Thanks also for the other hints (straps ect.).

Unfortunately there are not many 3S Hardcase LIPOs with this capa available to me - there is almost no chance to ship LIPOs from US to EU (especially to Switzerland, strict lows), so either I invest in LRP 3s 4500 LIPOs (around 100 USD) or I go with Softcase LIPOs (remember, I do not need to follow race rules).

--OT--
Is it still this (excuse me) silly race rule that most of you use Hardcase LIPOs? From a security point of view: to me it makes no sense. All of our RC Heli Lipos (and we talk about 12 to 14S with 5000mAh means a lot of energy) are Softcase Lipos with some Alu "plates" between the Cells - and I had really hard crashes (speed, 200km/h) and so fare not one LIPO was on fire (sure, for security reasons unsuable anymore)... Or are there other reasons to use Hardcase LIPOs?
--OT--



Sure, thats true, but for now -> no race. And just in case: That is then a reason to get a new Tekno .


Thanks guys, I really appreciate your advices for a newbie!
Hardcase helps, especially in off road. Various bits of stuff can fly off of tires or into vehicles at higher speeds, and our lipos almost always get abrasions on the surfaces from random sand and such. Unlike in the air, we can pelt our batteries with rocks and similar. Additionally, in a huge crash on the ground, you're likely to do a lot less damage to the vehicle than when something falls out of the sky, so having a little bit of weight is not bad to help protect from that. I won't be running a non-hardcase in any of my vehicles. That being said, for most it is because of rules.

For 3s, I would look for something like this SMC 5000, which will be slightly larger than a 2s stick pack, but won't require replacing the velcro straps. Alternatively, this SMC 7200 would be a larger 3s pack that would give all kinds of run time, but be a bit heavier and normal 4s size, so would require the 4s-6s velcro strap change.

This ProMatch 6500mah pack may also be worth researching as they do discounted international shipping (though I don't know if the shipping is reasonable or not).
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Old 01-21-2016, 05:44 PM   #2895
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Anybody running a Orion in their set up? Or is everyone set on Tekin in these kits? Waiting a week until my bonus to pick up my power plant.
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