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Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread

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Old 09-05-2022, 08:19 AM   -   Wikipost
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.




Hinge Pin Insert Chart:

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.





















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Old 01-16-2016, 04:09 AM
  #2866  
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Originally Posted by twistedneck
Very cool post justpoet. your point about stiffer stabilizer bars at the end that's digging is spot on. In a typical car, the roll couple is the contribution of each end of the car on the complete roll rate. Usually you want the most contribution to come from the end with most weight over the wheels. and then add a few more percent.. so adding roll rate with the stabar or coil spring, or stiffer rubber bushings to move the roll couple around its awesome.

problem is how do you figure out what end is digging in??


the other thing is roll gradient, also known as degrees of roll per G of lateral cornering load. all the items like roll center location and center of gravity, spring rates, etc. control this - so there is a certain amount of roll gradient that is ideal to avoid traction rolling.. the higher the better.. so example 2 degrees of roll per G would be a sports car.. maybe a jeep could be 12 degrees of roll per G, what is the ideal to avoid traction rolling?
You question is to complex to ever be answered in the specifics you are requesting.
You have the right idea about some of it, but then you want a static ratio in G forces as if your running on pavement and your tires are stuck like glue.
There are way to many variables to contend with when speaking of off road scenarios on dirt, starting with tire choice, how well they are biting, track conditions, ride height, and every single thing in between.

Anyhow I am surprised that no one has suggested the fact you can benefit from adding in ackerman by moving your drag link position to help counter initial bite as well as offer more on power steering. It's quick and easy and you can try it with very little effort, past adjusting your toe back to optimal.
The slip angle can greatly affect your drag coefficient, which in turn can majorly effect weight transfer by reducing some of the immediate inertial roll in that can dig-in to aggressively.
But this is also dependent on your driving habits and preference.

Past the aforementioned roll center tuning, you should first consider your bump steer setting to help counteract the camber shift from side to side.
If you set that up right, then you don't need to sacrifice forward traction by adding in to much negative camber to begin with.
Stiffer tire foams up front would also help alleviate sidewall roll over.
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Old 01-16-2016, 04:30 AM
  #2867  
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Originally Posted by fidelity101
I'm thinking of buying the 410.3 and since very few people at my track race 4wd, I'd like to make it a track runner/outdoor basher. Does anyone know if they make a good quality waterproof esc and motor that would work well with this truck? I'm thinking mamba max 2 with a high kv motor? I'd prefer tekin, but they don't do waterproof.
Originally Posted by ezlight
For a cheap waterproof ESC I've had good luck withteh RC gear stuff from tower. It's a hobbywing knockoff, but the HW program card does not work with it...Get the one with the 4450 4 pole motor, and you'll just need a decent WP servo.
You guys can water proof your own electronics using "Never Wet" or "Ultra Ever Dry"
It doesn't hurt electronics at all, so you can open up an ESC's case and spray it down, inside and out if you like and it will provide a nice layer of superhydrophobic material that will repel water and mud better than anything the market currently offered in the RC industry.
Just be aware that it will cause a whitish grey cloudy look on anything dark in color. But who cares if protecting your stuff is prerogative.

+ YouTube Video
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+ YouTube Video
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Last edited by Josh L; 01-16-2016 at 04:49 AM.
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Old 01-16-2016, 12:08 PM
  #2868  
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Originally Posted by fidelity101
I compromised and went with a 4700kv 4 pole 3656 motor. Something between a 540 and 550.
I was moments away from ordering the Reedy and last moment went with a Hobbywing. Loved the 4700 in my last Tekno but decided to give the 4000 a try this time. Ran the 4700 with a 15 tooth pinion. Guessing a 17-18 with the 4000.
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Old 01-16-2016, 08:32 PM
  #2869  
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Originally Posted by King DORK
I was moments away from ordering the Reedy and last moment went with a Hobbywing. Loved the 4700 in my last Tekno but decided to give the 4000 a try this time. Ran the 4700 with a 15 tooth pinion. Guessing a 17-18 with the 4000.
I usually am at 18T with the 4000 indoors.
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Old 01-17-2016, 05:34 AM
  #2870  
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Originally Posted by King DORK
I was moments away from ordering the Reedy and last moment went with a Hobbywing. Loved the 4700 in my last Tekno but decided to give the 4000 a try this time. Ran the 4700 with a 15 tooth pinion. Guessing a 17-18 with the 4000.
you'll be happy. In my heavier DESC10 yesterday could darn near walk down anyone with it
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Old 01-17-2016, 08:25 AM
  #2871  
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Originally Posted by Cain
you'll be happy. In my heavier DESC10 yesterday could darn near walk down anyone with it
Cain, I'm just happy to get back to racing. Gonna be a few months still since I'm jammed up with weekend work for a little while still. Gives me time to build some kits after the kids go to bed. Kept my VTX8 esc and Protek 130ss servo to put in the new Tekno. Did pick up the A&C aluminum hinge pin braces, aluminum wheel hexes, servo arm, Tekno 1.5x6 pistons, and a couple different springs. Not stocking up on spares like last time. Didn't need any of them.
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Old 01-17-2016, 08:27 AM
  #2872  
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Originally Posted by Dan.J
I usually am at 18T with the 4000 indoors.
I'll snatch up a 17, 18, and 19 then to cover things. Thanks!
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Old 01-17-2016, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by King DORK
I'll snatch up a 17, 18, and 19 then to cover things. Thanks!
4000kv hobbywing I ran 18 most of the time. medium sized indoor and outdoor. I rarely changed the pinion. You could go up a little more. Never got hot....ever LOL temps were always 140..esc 90.
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Old 01-17-2016, 10:10 AM
  #2874  
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So I know someone just asked about a waterproof and budget motor and esc.......but what would be a good motor and esc for racing on a large outdoor track without those two restrictions? I've been running a castle sct pro and 3800 and have decided it's time for an upgrade as that motor is small for this car anyway
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Old 01-17-2016, 10:11 AM
  #2875  
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Originally Posted by tfrankito
4000kv hobbywing I ran 18 most of the time. medium sized indoor and outdoor. I rarely changed the pinion. You could go up a little more. Never got hot....ever LOL temps were always 140..esc 90.
Sounds great!
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Old 01-17-2016, 01:55 PM
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if anyone needs it, I got a bunch of springs here that I won't use, including the hot bodies ones too. Just hitmeup if you want them.
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Old 01-17-2016, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Cain
if anyone needs it, I got a bunch of springs here that I won't use, including the hot bodies ones too. Just hitmeup if you want them.
What color? How much?
I'm still having issues getting ride height.. Haven't been to the track yet to really break it in good.. But it doesn't hurt to have extra..
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Old 01-18-2016, 01:30 PM
  #2878  
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Hi guys

My first post - therefore a short introduction: My name is Raphael, I'm from Switzerland (no, not Sweden). Right, thats this little country located in the heart of Europe with a lot of Mountains, Banks, Chocolate, Watches and 4 languages (no, English is not one of them ;-).

I'm new to RC Cars, my background is RC Helis (up to 700 class). Don't roast me - I have to learn some stuff regarding RC Cars. Ok, I had a TA TC10 (used one) 10 or 12 y ago. Recently a few youngsters around the corner played with their Traxxas Slashes. It was bound to happen (before new year): I begun to research and the Tekno SCT410.3 got my attention.

I'm in now way a Pro Racer - but I take it seriously (as with my RC Helis) - most of the time I will use it just outdoor (gras, country lane) and not on the Race Track. I do _not_ look for a 100% Bashing Car, but It should handle a some splashes of water (sorry, do not knot to express it properly, but I think you know what I mean).

I know, the SCT410.3 it's more of a Pro RC Race Car, but

1. I want a Kit to build by my self
2. I want to choose the components
3. I want a really good quality Kit

What I don't want: buy for the base car and replace 50% of the stuff by upgrades...

And now a have some questions and I'm interested in your opinion (I don't plan to use it in competitions, therefore no rules ) - and agin, please forgive me the somehow goof questions:
  1. Application: Am I completely wrong with my plan? Is there a chance to make the SCT410.3 Splash-wather resistent (Bearings! -> Sealed Bearings?)?
  2. Battery: I'd like to use a 3S Lipo. Possible? What capacity would you suggest?
  3. ESC: What do you think about the _waterproof_ version of the HW Rerun 120a 3.1?
    (Google for PN HWA30112121072)
  4. Motor: What do you think about the 3400KV version of the HW Rerun 3656 (remember: 3S) (Google for PN HWA90100000)?
  5. Servo: I would like to use my RC Heli Swash Servos (because I just have it already): JR Propo NX8925 -> 18KG/0.6sec (240oz/in) (Google for NX8925).
  6. What gear/pinion should I use? I do _not_ need a 70mph machine... now... but...
  7. What tires/wheels could you suggest for outdoor/non-track?
  8. What body should I choose? Proline? Bitty Design Black Hawk - or is it anyway all the same?
  9. What else do I need? RX Case (Sanwa MT4 -> Sanwa 461)? Servo horn (JR -> 23T, right)? Wheel Nuts?

Thank you very much in advance,
Raphael
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Old 01-18-2016, 03:23 PM
  #2879  
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Originally Posted by slowrider
Hi guys

My first post - therefore a short introduction: My name is Raphael, I'm from Switzerland (no, not Sweden). Right, thats this little country located in the heart of Europe with a lot of Mountains, Banks, Chocolate, Watches and 4 languages (no, English is not one of them ;-).

I'm new to RC Cars, my background is RC Helis (up to 700 class). Don't roast me - I have to learn some stuff regarding RC Cars. Ok, I had a TA TC10 (used one) 10 or 12 y ago. Recently a few youngsters around the corner played with their Traxxas Slashes. It was bound to happen (before new year): I begun to research and the Tekno SCT410.3 got my attention.

I'm in now way a Pro Racer - but I take it seriously (as with my RC Helis) - most of the time I will use it just outdoor (gras, country lane) and not on the Race Track. I do _not_ look for a 100% Bashing Car, but It should handle a some splashes of water (sorry, do not knot to express it properly, but I think you know what I mean).

I know, the SCT410.3 it's more of a Pro RC Race Car, but

1. I want a Kit to build by my self
2. I want to choose the components
3. I want a really good quality Kit

What I don't want: buy for the base car and replace 50% of the stuff by upgrades...

And now a have some questions and I'm interested in your opinion (I don't plan to use it in competitions, therefore no rules ) - and agin, please forgive me the somehow goof questions:
  1. Application: Am I completely wrong with my plan? Is there a chance to make the SCT410.3 Splash-wather resistent (Bearings! -> Sealed Bearings?)?
  2. Battery: I'd like to use a 3S Lipo. Possible? What capacity would you suggest?
  3. ESC: What do you think about the _waterproof_ version of the HW Rerun 120a 3.1?
    (Google for PN HWA30112121072)
  4. Motor: What do you think about the 3400KV version of the HW Rerun 3656 (remember: 3S) (Google for PN HWA90100000)?
  5. Servo: I would like to use my RC Heli Swash Servos (because I just have it already): JR Propo NX8925 -> 18KG/0.6sec (240oz/in) (Google for NX8925).
  6. What gear/pinion should I use? I do _not_ need a 70mph machine... now... but...
  7. What tires/wheels could you suggest for outdoor/non-track?
  8. What body should I choose? Proline? Bitty Design Black Hawk - or is it anyway all the same?
  9. What else do I need? RX Case (Sanwa MT4 -> Sanwa 461)? Servo horn (JR -> 23T, right)? Wheel Nuts?

Thank you very much in advance,
Raphael
Welcome to potential Tekno ownership. I can't answer all of your questions but here are a couple of thoughts.
This is a very durable truck. The only things out of the box that you may want to upgrade the suspension A,B,C,D blocks. Also an alloy servo horn. All the rest you can replace as needed. It is a fun build and is one of the best quality kits I have built.
The kit already comes with rubber shielded bearings so you can use them until they wear. I like Avid replacement bearings. No bearing is waterproof, you have to do a little maintenance.
The truck is fully capable of handling 3S batteries.
The servo you suggest will have enough torque, it should work fine.
For wheels you need 0 offset often listed as made for the Losi SCTE. I like the AKA wheels and tires. Proline make some nice basher tires as well. Trenchers or Gladiators may work well for you. Tires will be more specific to your track/location.
Bodies can be a personal preference. I like Proline bodies and many like JConcepts. Or the Snow's Design Diamondback is great. Anything listed for the Losi SCTE will fit. If you are bashing you can choose many different types of bodies.
The truck comes with wheel nuts.
I hope this helps. Hopefully somebody else will chime in with answers to your other questions.
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Old 01-18-2016, 09:51 PM
  #2880  
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Originally Posted by slowrider
I know, the SCT410.3 it's more of a Pro RC Race Car, but

1. I want a Kit to build by my self
2. I want to choose the components
3. I want a really good quality Kit

What I don't want: buy for the base car and replace 50% of the stuff by upgrades...

And now a have some questions and I'm interested in your opinion (I don't plan to use it in competitions, therefore no rules ) - and agin, please forgive me the somehow goof questions:
  1. Application: Am I completely wrong with my plan? Is there a chance to make the SCT410.3 Splash-wather resistent (Bearings! -> Sealed Bearings?)?
  2. Battery: I'd like to use a 3S Lipo. Possible? What capacity would you suggest?
  3. ESC: What do you think about the _waterproof_ version of the HW Rerun 120a 3.1?
    (Google for PN HWA30112121072)
  4. Motor: What do you think about the 3400KV version of the HW Rerun 3656 (remember: 3S) (Google for PN HWA90100000)?
  5. Servo: I would like to use my RC Heli Swash Servos (because I just have it already): JR Propo NX8925 -> 18KG/0.6sec (240oz/in) (Google for NX8925).
  6. What gear/pinion should I use? I do _not_ need a 70mph machine... now... but...
  7. What tires/wheels could you suggest for outdoor/non-track?
  8. What body should I choose? Proline? Bitty Design Black Hawk - or is it anyway all the same?
  9. What else do I need? RX Case (Sanwa MT4 -> Sanwa 461)? Servo horn (JR -> 23T, right)? Wheel Nuts?

Thank you very much in advance,
Raphael
I understand you love for building a high quality kit vs some half cheap RTR combo. I would do the exact same thing no matter if I was going to race or just beat the crap out of it doing stunts. You always make a better choice with a kit when quality comes to mind.

Anyhow, any and all short course bodies will work, some with slight modification if need be. I run the proline 64 ford body and love it. I even use it to race with and never have any problems. I do have to make a few extra relief cuts on the body to get it to fit low enough to be practical, but it's way worth it when others see it smoke their sleek looking SCT specific setups!

As for your motor, that is sorta mid/low KV for 3S use as a max cell count.
It will work without a doubt just fine, but would do a lot better as a 4s motor.
If you want to run a 3S I would go with something more on line with the 4000 KV if you really want to rip down the dirt.
Have a look at this combo> EZRUN 4000KV Combo
Another thing to consider is how well the internal BEC will be able to handle your servo. I ran an SCT-pro with the exact same (6v 3amp) internal BEC on my SCTE 2.0 with a Futaba HV-9352 digital servo, and it simply couldn't produce enough power on demand to run that servo consistently. I had to install a castle external BEC running 7.2v @ 10 amps to clear up the bogging I was running into.

Alternately, if you don't mind spending the cash you could just buy the motor you where looking at originally or the suggested 4000KV and go with the the newer EZRUN Max-8 ESC, which has a programmable BEC that can run upto 7.4v @ 6 amps, that can handle all the way up to a 6S if you ever wanted to use it in a monster truck setup in the future.
Make sure what ever you do, that the program board comes with it, so you can tune the ESC.

You will not want a battery much lower than 5000mah for 3S, or you will not run past 8-10 minutes, and you won't want one any larger than 7200 if you are concerned about the weight balance.

Keep in mind that the EZrun series ESC's are non-sensored also, so you don't necessarily need to go with an XERUN motor, but can if you like.

As for gearing, you can start with a 14-15t mod 1 pinion. Tekno makes about the nicest pinions out there, so I just buy one with the kit from them.

On 3S your truck will fly, and will run way more efficient than any of them on 2S. Hope that helps some more.
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