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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 01-07-2016, 01:36 PM   #2821
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
for 4x4 SCT i would recommend get the best rated ones you can personally. If the nanotech ultimates are anything like the similar constructed IP packs that promatch used to sell with the 5mm bullets, and talking to some who have them they sound like it, I'd be game try try if 5mm bullets are a big thing to you. These I am referencing:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Approved_.html


the IP version I loved. They were excellent batteries and loved the 5mm bullet pass thrus. Made making a 4S lipo easy when I dropped them into my truggy for long runtimes.
I have been running that turnigy pack for a while now and it's great. About 6 month old and still has more punch than the promatch 8000 pack I recently bought. The old nanotechs seemed to lose punch fairly quickly but not the one I have. It was actually my only pack for a while so it got hot charged 4x a race day at 10 amps and is still going strong.
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Old 01-07-2016, 07:29 PM   #2822
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The Team Scream packs are pretty solid too. They're a little on the pricy side but the performance is outstanding.
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Old 01-08-2016, 12:39 AM   #2823
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Thumbs up Nanotech ultimate

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Originally Posted by BigPar View Post
Hi guys, I've had 2 6000mah turnigy nanotechs for about a year and a half, they have been great batteries but are starting to lose some punch, I want to get new batteries so I'm thinking about the nanotech ultimate which are 90c rated and also the SMC's Extreme Race Formula 100c rated, or save a few bucks and get the ones I've used before, I'm looking for honest thoughts between those 3, if it's worth the extra bucks for the "hotter" ones, thanks!

I'm running the hobbywing sct pro 4700kv...
I am very satisfied with the turnigy nanotech ultimate. I use 7500mah in my Tekno and the shorty 4300mah in my Serpent. Only got some swollen packs by using the shortys in my 4x4 at hot conditions, my fault.
Used them for 1 jear now, no problems. The 5mm go-through bullets are easy to clean and they come with 2 adapters to 4mm.
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Old 01-08-2016, 02:05 AM   #2824
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I see it. I actually responded to your post...lol. Do you know what kind of runtime you are getting with the 16 tooth pinion? By my calcs, with that pinion, the speed would be similar to a pro4 hd 4300 with 18t pinion which is what I was last running.
Hi I know this is an older post.. I use this motor on a traxxas slash that I practice and race a lot. yea I know, its a slash 4x4 but I have some observations.

#1 - reduce the timing to zero it will run much cooler and help with traction -this motor has so much power the slightly low torque at lower rpm w zero timing advance really helps rip out of corners.

#2 - use a motor fan. I was able to eliminate all heat issues using a simple fan that I borrowed from my castle Mamba Monster 2 ESC.

#3 - this motor loves rpm. I currently run an 11/54 combo and its still capable of 40+ mph. rpm is insane and the motor is very efficient = even with the 4700kV if you have her geared low it will last and last.. much longer than my pals 4300 Tekin pro 4 550 HD.

In my opinion, this motor is not ideal for a truck that's almost 7lbs.. you can't get the gear low enough since the Tekno supports 14tooth pinions and larger.
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Old 01-08-2016, 02:20 AM   #2825
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Originally Posted by justpoet View Post
1) Yep, or put in a button head.

2) The steering stop limiters are indeed to help this and consistency. I personally don't run them though right now as I like the hard turn in to break it loose and throttle drift the corners on the low bite dusty track I'm on. On other tracks I do more turning on late brake and then throttle out hard. The limiters have instructions in the EB48SL manual that talk about them. The holes in the spindle's leverage arms are for this.

3) There are a few things here, but common ways to pick up more steering everywhere are to reduce front kick up, increase rear anti-squat, or to shorten and raise the front inner camber link, or lengthen the rear (which will give more traction overall, but cause more of a drift all over in most driving situations and styles). Reducing front droop can also help with this as less weight will transfer off of the front wheels.

4) Traction rolling is generally controlled with:
a) stiffer anti-sway bars (on the end that is digging in and making it roll)
b) more static camber so you tend to slide instead of catch and roll
c) being careful not to go sideways where there are ruts on the track
d) limiting droop to reduce maximum roll angle
e) lowering ride height

I think we talked about the screws at the track, so please feel free to ask anything whenever.
Very cool post justpoet. your point about stiffer stabilizer bars at the end that's digging is spot on. In a typical car, the roll couple is the contribution of each end of the car on the complete roll rate. Usually you want the most contribution to come from the end with most weight over the wheels. and then add a few more percent.. so adding roll rate with the stabar or coil spring, or stiffer rubber bushings to move the roll couple around its awesome.

problem is how do you figure out what end is digging in??


the other thing is roll gradient, also known ass degrees of roll per G of lateral cornering load. all the items like roll center location and center of gravity, spring rates, etc. control this - so there is a certain amount of roll gradient that is ideal to avoid traction rolling.. the higher the better.. so example 2 degrees of roll per G would be a sports car.. maybe a jeep could be 12 degrees of roll per G, what is the ideal to avoid traction rolling?
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Old 01-08-2016, 06:27 AM   #2826
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Originally Posted by rcgod View Post
I have been running that turnigy pack for a while now and it's great. About 6 month old and still has more punch than the promatch 8000 pack I recently bought. The old nanotechs seemed to lose punch fairly quickly but not the one I have. It was actually my only pack for a while so it got hot charged 4x a race day at 10 amps and is still going strong.

I'd probably contact promatch about that 8000mah pack to see if they have any insight into it, especially if your charger displays IR and all.

They were excellent when I had a pack back in the day that was going soft for no apparent reason while the others that it came with were fine.
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Old 01-08-2016, 10:24 AM   #2827
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Default V-port shock piston

Just recently got a Tekno sct 410.3
Been following the post on here.
I purchased the v-ports and was installing them.. The piston center hole is to small . Anyone else have this problem? Any input would be appreciated. Can I just drill it out and to what size?
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Old 01-08-2016, 10:34 AM   #2828
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Originally Posted by Puckett441 View Post
Just recently got a Tekno sct 410.3
Been following the post on here.
I purchased the v-ports and was installing them.. The piston center hole is to small . Anyone else have this problem? Any input would be appreciated. Can I just drill it out and to what size?

I'm not familiar with the v-ports. Any chance you might be trying to put it on the wrong end?
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Old 01-08-2016, 10:51 AM   #2829
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I'm not familiar with the v-ports. Any chance you might be trying to put it on the wrong end?
No it's on the same end the stock piston came off of.. I sure I can take the hole up in size. Just seeing if anyone else has had to do the same thing.
I done want to drill it up oversized, I only have standard dill bits , and it will have some play if I do that. But the nut will take some of that out, I'm sure
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Old 01-08-2016, 04:50 PM   #2830
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Default Aluminum emulsion shock caps

Does anyone sell aluminum bleeder shock caps for the Tekno sct 410.3?
I've got one of the stock caps with the bleeder screw won't tighten up
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Old 01-08-2016, 08:48 PM   #2831
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Originally Posted by Dragonfueled View Post
I usually remove or go lighter on the rear sway bar when I need more rear traction. Or go stiffer on the front sway bar to take away some steering bite
This illustrates the difference.. less stabilizer bar on the front = more front suspension action and grip at the front, may cause over steer and loose rear in on and off power situations.

with the heavy diff oil in the rear it becomes more like a spool rear end.. a spool will cause the truck to stay straight and really plant under power. if you want more turning, you reduce the diff fluid from 3 to 2.. I've tried 10 and that actually starts to hurt low speed turn in really bad.

or you could do the opposite on the front, put very low viscosity fluid in the front diff so it throws the back end around like child's play.
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Old 01-11-2016, 04:14 PM   #2832
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Originally Posted by Puckett441 View Post
Does anyone sell aluminum bleeder shock caps for the Tekno sct 410.3?
I've got one of the stock caps with the bleeder screw won't tighten up
The Aluminum caps aren't bleeder caps. They are solid, with a tiny vent hole designed to work with the vented shock set up only. If you want a bleeder hole, or choose to run emulsion shocks, you have to run the plastic caps.
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Old 01-11-2016, 04:16 PM   #2833
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Puckett441 View Post
Just recently got a Tekno sct 410.3
Been following the post on here.
I purchased the v-ports and was installing them.. The piston center hole is to small . Anyone else have this problem? Any input would be appreciated. Can I just drill it out and to what size?
I had the red V Ports and I didn't like them. The hole needs honed out a tiny bit to make them fit. I sold them and bought the 6x1.5 Delrin pistons and love them.
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Old 01-11-2016, 05:29 PM   #2834
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does anyone know what the 250 weight oil in the kit is close to in losi oil wieghts? I wana try softening up the shocks a bit and have losi oil, also bought some 4x1.5 tekno pistons,and cant remember what eight oil to run with them,anyone know a good setup,im using black springs front and rear.going to try pink in rear also
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Old 01-12-2016, 03:16 AM   #2835
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Originally Posted by Barillms View Post
The Aluminum caps aren't bleeder caps. They are solid, with a tiny vent hole designed to work with the vented shock set up only. If you want a bleeder hole, or choose to run emulsion shocks, you have to run the plastic caps.
Thank you, I was just checking.
I guess I'm going to go with the vented aluminum.
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